Jeff G 78

Because they had to meet emissions regulations. When you compare the round tops side by side to the flat tops, you'll see just how complex the flat tops are. Other than the few gurus who like them, they really are crap. Many dealers were swapping them out when the cars were brand new due to all the problems they had. Just because something was mass produced, doesn't mean it was any good. AMC was in business for years and everything they built was junk. :sick:

I love Rockauto, The shipping costs tend to be a bit high since every part comes from a different warehouse location.

Hey Rich, logon to zcar.com and PM "Tony D". He loves flat tops and knows how to make them work very well. Tell him I sent you.

Looks great! Keep the pics coming.

Been there, done that. These pics are from my '75 Z that sat for about 10 years in a damp barn. I tried everything prior to cutting, but it just wasn't going to budge.

My buddy and I always had the rule that to put a car on your list, you must have the title and must have driven it at least once around the block. This eliminates counting parent owned cars we drove in high school and pure parts cars. You wouldn't believe some of the creative things we did to drive cars that had no business being on public roads Since 1982: 1981 Toyota 4x2 PU 1972 240Z 1976 280Z 1976 280Z 1990 Toyota 4Runner 1984 Supra 1984 Toyota 4x4 1979 Subaru BRAT 1981 BMW 320i s 1987 CRX si 1978 280Z 1977 280Z 1991 Toyota 4x4 1990 Toyota 4x4 1975 280Z 1994 Sentra SE-R 1972 240Z 1973 240Z 1987 Civic si 1989 240SX 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 1987 300ZX 1989 Toyota 4x4 1998 Toyota 4Runner 1974 260Z I've likely missed a few, but as you can see, I pick cars I like and keep buying them over and over.

I have owned twin SU Zs, a triple Weber Z and many FI Zs. I will say that the L-Jetronic FI is great for stock engines, but doesn't like mods much at all. I tried to add a mild cam to my 10:1 '78 and it simply ran like crap. There isn't enough vacuum to keep the FI system happy. I went back to the stock cam and now own a $500 paperweight with the cam, rockers, springs, and lash pads. If you like the idea of FI, do the research and consider Mega Squirt or another stand alone system like an Electamotive Tec III, SDS, etc. Triple carbs are really cool and sound fantastic, but a MS system is better and cheaper most of the time.

I have that same punch and drift set!

I had no idea that 1980's Toyota Supra wheels were original equipment on 1971 Datsuns. Weird, huh?

I typed $250 first, but then figured there had to be a few good parts left.

I don't care what the VIN is, that's a $400 parts car

Thanks. Just like replacing the rear outer control arm bushings, right? Step 1) Remove spindle pin nuts Step 2) Remove lock pin Step 3) Remove spindle pin Step 4)...

I just ordered a seal myself for the 260. Courtesy Nissan stocks them for around $10. I assume it's a straight forward job. Remove the driveshaft, pry the seal out and tap the new one into place. Anything else Arne?

I believe it is two different things John. The one you posted states that the gear fails to meet the SFI standards and was recalled. The new one states that Impact was not getting their labels from SFI and therefore circumventing the SFI certification process. At this point, SFI has not accused Impact of selling equipment that is substandard or unsafe, only that SFI did not certify Impact Racing gear. Without the SFI certification, the gear is deemed worthless since most sanctioning bodies require SFI certified equipment to be worn. I would hate to be an Impact Racing retailer right now. Their inventory is worthless until this is settled.

I agree with all above and will also add that I'm 6'-1" with a very tall seated height and I can fit with a helmet. You should be fine.

My Z cars are both still sleeping, but my plan is to wake them up tomorrow.

With Bill Simpson's track record, I wouldn't hold my breath. Last year he was caught using fake HANS clips. I remember another Simpson named O.J. who said he was "100% not guilty"

For those who road race, Impact Racing gear is in DEEP doo doo and will likely be out of business within days. If you own any Impact gear or are in the market to buy, read this: March, 2010 March 26, 2010 - NOTICE OF DECERTIFICATION; NOTICE TO CEASE AND DESIST AND TERMINATION OF ALL CONTRACTS OF PARTICIPATION ISSUED TO IMPACT RACING SFI Foundation, Inc., has issued a Notice of Decertification; Notice of Cease and Desist, and a notice terminating all Contracts of Participation to Impact Racing. Effective April 27, 2010, all products manufactured and/or distributed by Impact Racing pursuant to SFI Specification Programs 3.2A, 3.3, 16.1, and 16.5 are decertified. Evidence obtained by SFI shows that over a period of years Impact Racing has engaged in the production and use of counterfeit SFI conformance labels and patches, and affixed them to Impact products for use in motorsports. Under the Contracts of Participation between SFI and Impact, SFI conformance labels and patches may only be obtained from SFI and no other source. Evidence shows that Impact had counterfeit SFI labels and patches made in Asia and then affixed them to Impact products it distributed to members of the racing community. To SFI’s knowledge, Impact never advised its customers that its products contained phony SFI labels and patches. Impact never advised SFI of its systematic and longstanding practice of counterfeiting and distributing SFI patches and labeling. Impact has been directed to cease and desist from this practice. SFI has directed Impact to immediately notify all affected customers to remove the counterfeit labeling and to offer the affected customers a full refund of the purchase price. SFI is requesting that all counterfeit conformance labels removed from Impact products be sent to SFI. SFI has elected not to decertify these products immediately in order to minimize the potential hardships to members of the racing community that have been brought about by Impact’s counterfeiting activities. SFI has also elected to terminate all Contracts of Participation with Impact Racing effective 90 days from March 24, 2010. Under the terms of the Contracts, either party may terminate the agreements without penalty upon 90 days notice. This means that Impact will no longer be able to participate in any SFI programs after this 90 day period. SFI has taken these actions in the best interests of the safety and integrity of the racing community. This is in keeping with SFI’s mission and purpose. For a downloadable .pdf of this notice, please click on the following link: Decertification Notice 03-26-10.\ http://www.sfifoundation.com/Decertific … -26-10.pdf

Here is a car in Florida that *appears* to be much better for the same or less money. http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/1638526140.html

Sounds like a $1500 car at most to me. The problem with one owner cars is that people get so attached, they think they are worth more than they really are. For $5k you can get a NICE Z. Keep looking.

Based on your screen name, it appears you have a 280. If that's the case, the Tokico springs are linear and will not have any issues like what you read. That is only the 240 progressive Tokicos.

Koalia: "Winshield viper acting strange" Well, THERE'S your problem! Ya gots snakes in yer car! I'd remove the whole motor and linkage assy and make sure nothing is bent. Clean and lubricate each linkage joint as well as the posts where they go through the aluminum housings. I did this on my 260 and they work like new. The linkages are a pain to get out of the cowl, but they will come out if you get them turned just right. Make sure you remove all the motor bolts.

Great news! Those wheel cylinders aren't cheap. You might get lucky by drilling the bleeders out after soaking them for a while in PB Blaster.

That's one thing I've never had a problem with. My 280Z has 225/50R16 max performance summer tires and the steering is light, even at low speeds. On the highway, it feels better than most new vehicles I've driven. The only time it gets heavy is on long corners near the limit. My 260Z LeMons car has 195/60R14 tires and the steering is very light even on a track. I'm guessing this is because the tires are narrower and that I moved the LCA inner pivots up and out to fix bumpsteer and gain negative camber.

Those are made by Gorilla. Either ask a Gorilla lock supplier if they have a key set, or get the wheel lock removal tool made by Sanp On (I think). It looks like a socket. You hammer it over the lock and it bites in so you can remove it.