Jeff G 78

Thanks. Just like replacing the rear outer control arm bushings, right? Step 1) Remove spindle pin nuts Step 2) Remove lock pin Step 3) Remove spindle pin Step 4)...

I just ordered a seal myself for the 260. Courtesy Nissan stocks them for around $10. I assume it's a straight forward job. Remove the driveshaft, pry the seal out and tap the new one into place. Anything else Arne?

I believe it is two different things John. The one you posted states that the gear fails to meet the SFI standards and was recalled. The new one states that Impact was not getting their labels from SFI and therefore circumventing the SFI certification process. At this point, SFI has not accused Impact of selling equipment that is substandard or unsafe, only that SFI did not certify Impact Racing gear. Without the SFI certification, the gear is deemed worthless since most sanctioning bodies require SFI certified equipment to be worn. I would hate to be an Impact Racing retailer right now. Their inventory is worthless until this is settled.

I agree with all above and will also add that I'm 6'-1" with a very tall seated height and I can fit with a helmet. You should be fine.

My Z cars are both still sleeping, but my plan is to wake them up tomorrow.

With Bill Simpson's track record, I wouldn't hold my breath. Last year he was caught using fake HANS clips. I remember another Simpson named O.J. who said he was "100% not guilty"

For those who road race, Impact Racing gear is in DEEP doo doo and will likely be out of business within days. If you own any Impact gear or are in the market to buy, read this: March, 2010 March 26, 2010 - NOTICE OF DECERTIFICATION; NOTICE TO CEASE AND DESIST AND TERMINATION OF ALL CONTRACTS OF PARTICIPATION ISSUED TO IMPACT RACING SFI Foundation, Inc., has issued a Notice of Decertification; Notice of Cease and Desist, and a notice terminating all Contracts of Participation to Impact Racing. Effective April 27, 2010, all products manufactured and/or distributed by Impact Racing pursuant to SFI Specification Programs 3.2A, 3.3, 16.1, and 16.5 are decertified. Evidence obtained by SFI shows that over a period of years Impact Racing has engaged in the production and use of counterfeit SFI conformance labels and patches, and affixed them to Impact products for use in motorsports. Under the Contracts of Participation between SFI and Impact, SFI conformance labels and patches may only be obtained from SFI and no other source. Evidence shows that Impact had counterfeit SFI labels and patches made in Asia and then affixed them to Impact products it distributed to members of the racing community. To SFI’s knowledge, Impact never advised its customers that its products contained phony SFI labels and patches. Impact never advised SFI of its systematic and longstanding practice of counterfeiting and distributing SFI patches and labeling. Impact has been directed to cease and desist from this practice. SFI has directed Impact to immediately notify all affected customers to remove the counterfeit labeling and to offer the affected customers a full refund of the purchase price. SFI is requesting that all counterfeit conformance labels removed from Impact products be sent to SFI. SFI has elected not to decertify these products immediately in order to minimize the potential hardships to members of the racing community that have been brought about by Impact’s counterfeiting activities. SFI has also elected to terminate all Contracts of Participation with Impact Racing effective 90 days from March 24, 2010. Under the terms of the Contracts, either party may terminate the agreements without penalty upon 90 days notice. This means that Impact will no longer be able to participate in any SFI programs after this 90 day period. SFI has taken these actions in the best interests of the safety and integrity of the racing community. This is in keeping with SFI’s mission and purpose. For a downloadable .pdf of this notice, please click on the following link: Decertification Notice 03-26-10.\ http://www.sfifoundation.com/Decertific … -26-10.pdf

Here is a car in Florida that *appears* to be much better for the same or less money. http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/1638526140.html

Sounds like a $1500 car at most to me. The problem with one owner cars is that people get so attached, they think they are worth more than they really are. For $5k you can get a NICE Z. Keep looking.

Based on your screen name, it appears you have a 280. If that's the case, the Tokico springs are linear and will not have any issues like what you read. That is only the 240 progressive Tokicos.

Koalia: "Winshield viper acting strange" Well, THERE'S your problem! Ya gots snakes in yer car! I'd remove the whole motor and linkage assy and make sure nothing is bent. Clean and lubricate each linkage joint as well as the posts where they go through the aluminum housings. I did this on my 260 and they work like new. The linkages are a pain to get out of the cowl, but they will come out if you get them turned just right. Make sure you remove all the motor bolts.

Great news! Those wheel cylinders aren't cheap. You might get lucky by drilling the bleeders out after soaking them for a while in PB Blaster.

That's one thing I've never had a problem with. My 280Z has 225/50R16 max performance summer tires and the steering is light, even at low speeds. On the highway, it feels better than most new vehicles I've driven. The only time it gets heavy is on long corners near the limit. My 260Z LeMons car has 195/60R14 tires and the steering is very light even on a track. I'm guessing this is because the tires are narrower and that I moved the LCA inner pivots up and out to fix bumpsteer and gain negative camber.

Those are made by Gorilla. Either ask a Gorilla lock supplier if they have a key set, or get the wheel lock removal tool made by Sanp On (I think). It looks like a socket. You hammer it over the lock and it bites in so you can remove it.

Open the hood and watch the rack near the steering shaft. With the car sitting still, have a helper turn the wheel back and forth 1/4 turn each way. If the rack moves back and forth or up and down in the mounts, replace them. Then, lay down and watch the tie rod ends at the knuckles while the helper repeats the test. Again, there should be no play in either joint. If all those things are tight, the rack itself might be the problem.

The car looks like a $5k car on the east coast, but I agree that the paint isn't good and it's hiding quite a bit. If you want a car that you can drive as-is, this is a good choice. If you are planning on repainting it after you buy it, you could start with a cheaper car that will likely need the same amount of bodywork. You WILL find rust areas that need repair on this car. The paint has too many tell tale signs of underlying issues.

Be careful as the original finish was likely a baked on combination of wet and dry products. A repaint might scratch easier.

Yay! Feels good to get it done, doesn't it? Now get off the computer and go enjoy it!

Personally, I'd keep the Panasports Kedyone kenobi. They look great and they are fantastic quality. The Konigs are great, but they are cheaper for a reason. The Panasports meet all Japanese OE specs. Very few aftermarket wheels can say that. Look for the "JL" that is cast into the rim. Konigs were not available in 16" when I got my Panasports, so I had no choice. Had the Konigs been on the market, I might have gone that way to save $500 or so, but I am very happy with my purchase. Since you already got the Panasports, be happy and keep them.

Uhhh honey... I was out for a walk and the cutest little green car followed me home. I really, really tried to find its owner, but it didn't have a collar. It looked sad, dirty and hungry, so I think the poor little thing needs to come live with us. He will get along great with the ones we already have since they are all the same breed. Can we keep him, can we keep him? Pleeeeaaaaaaasssseee????

For those of you who don't visit zcar.com or haven't seen this, A fellow Z lover "Cyind" died today. Please click on the link below and help Robert's family if possible, or just send your condolences. He was terminally ill and lost his life today according to his brother. Apparently, his family doesn't have the money for his funeral, so they are selling his Z cars and parts to help raise money. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/2132381

Very purdy Andrew! Nice price.

So far, so good. I fixed mine several days ago and it's still OK. One thing that *might* help is to put your car's color as the background color for your entire row. That way, if things get shuffled, we might be able to figure out which cells are shifted. There are enough colors that it should be easy to fix in the future.

Be sure to do the compression test correctly or the results will be useless. Adjust the valves per the FSM. Warm up the car before performing the test. Remove all 6 spark plugs, remove the coil wire and hold the throttle wide open. Crank the car over through 4-5 compression strokes and then record the results. Repeat for each cylinder. You should have 150 psi or higher and all 6 should be within 10%, not 20% as stated above. If the numbers are all low, add a bit of oil to each cylinder and repeat the test. If the numbers go up significantly, the problem is with the rings. If not, the problem is valve related.

Too bad my car doesn't deserve them yet. The wheels are by far the best looking thing about it. Someday I will have the cash for a new paintjob.