CableSrv

red dog seems to have fallen into the same issue... it's and old post man ... back in 2001 and yea i've already done all that. working on tube front chassis and putting a v8 in now.

hah, that's funny! yea very very old in fact i've since decided against the l28 and going v8 now. In process of doing massive rust repair on my 240z.

well guys I really appreciate your help and info. Tomorrow when I have time to install the pertronix i'll be removing the ballast. I just wanted to confirm that my system wouldn't fry if I removed it is all. And since the forums never went into this detail I had to create a topic for it

already did the search, and read everything about the pertronix and so on, but none of them go into detail about having pertronix AND a aftermarket coil. Pertronix's instruction states that if it doesn't have one don't worry but if it has one LEAVE IT. And from my understanding is the resistor is only there to protect the points and coil of which both are being changed out to aftermarket stuff... Also the msd blaster 2 coil does not have a built in resistor as the package I bought came with an external one. I don't mind leaving the resistor there, it's just if I don't need it then i'll take it off so that I can get the full 12v spark

Ok, I ordered a pertronix igniter kit to convert my dist to electric ignition. While I was at summit I went ahead and also ordered a msd blaster 2 coil. Now here is where i'm confused. Did alot of searching but no answers on this. As I understand it, the resistor is only to keep the points from frying at full voltage. But the instructions for the pertronix kit says, if I have a resister DON'T remove it... but since I'm changing out my coil also... is that still a good idea ? to leave the resistor ? or should I just remove it to get full spark ? From what I've researched the resistor is only to keep the coil from dying and from killing the points, of which I'm removing, and since I'm going aftermarket coil I shouldn't have to worry about it being destroyed right ? So the real question is... should I keep it or remove it ?

Yea I did some search on google for tuning su's and read alot about the floats, so this sunday i'll be doing that plus my float bowls had no gasket on them... so I put them back with no gasket.. I'm assuming this was bad then... so i'll be gettings new gaskets soon then. appreciate the info, and yea I agree if I had the money for the video i'd buy it but i'll be putting a 280zxt engine in soon anyway so no point in buying it right now

Hi guys, new to this board been a long time reader tho. I've got a problem but no money and need help diagnosing this. I bought a color tune and decided to check my carbs rich/lean ratio.. after fully closing the mixture valve the front carb still burned yellow(rich) so this leads me to believe something isn't right. I can't adjust the mixture needle anymore The rear carb burns blue(perfect ratio per colortune diagram) I have round top SU's on a l28e engine and n42 head in a 240z. I can only assume the person that put this together setup the carbs for the extra cc's of the l28. I've attempted to tear the carbs apart and clean them with b12 cemtool carb cleaner. I saw no wear in the needles... didn't see much on the nozzle and didn't check the float really to much. When I put the synco tester on the front carb the engine doesn't raise or lower in rpms AT ALL, but when I put it on the rear carb the rpms drop and engine starts to stumble. Both carbs measure the right airflow so they are synced just front is pig rich and fowling my plugs!!! If I had the cash I would order the ztheropy video and probably new needles and nozzles but alas i'm broke Can anyone help me diagnose this issue ?

wow talk about a LATE reply. well engine runs great now that i retuned the carbs btw cd2 removes all gunk and sludge from an engine in case you've never used it before second engine is not a l24 it's a l28e with n42 head so this engine HAS been rebuilt but anyway thanks for the reply