Zthing

Good advice concerning the hose attachment 240znz. Will probably hang onto the Webers for a little while. If I happen upon SU's in the meantime, will surely try to scarf them up for the future. Thanks again.

Hold on......this might be another option...and it's on DVD. http://store.aetv.com/html/product/index.jhtml?id=72035

Jeez man.....you're right!!!! I just went to thehistorychannel.com and found this!! http://store.aetv.com/html/product/index.jhtml?id=44187 Or just search for item# AAE-44187 It's $25 bucks and comes on VHS only it seems. Anyway...pretty cool. sblake01.....the double hump or camel back reference came from way back when I reworked my 68 Camaro. I was a fool and let it go. Will not make the same mistake again........unless my family is hungry of course. But ..... think'n about it, I could take $50 worth of Top Ramen noodles and feed me the wife and kid for at least a year.

My mistake.....yes I meant E88. Easy enough mistake to make, heck there is only 5 keys between the two letters. Speaking of which, seems mine has the E31 camel back 300's. Naah.....actually just E31.

Carl, went out to check all the numbers you mentioned, and now I don't know whether to be depressed or not. The number left of the master vac matches the one on the id tag. The engine number on the id tag does not in fact match the one on the block. The number (if I read it correctly in the dark with a flashlight) on the tag is L24 092653, but the number on the block is L24 008107. Like I said...It's 11pm here...but I am pretty sure thats what it is. I guess the engine is not original. :disappoin Dogma420, you were wondering about the rear hatch glass, well the lines are horizontal if that helps. Another thing which may or may not be a good thing is the carbs are Webers (2 of them - filters on top) instead of the originals. Since the car had been sitting for quite sometime, I spray marvel in the cylinders for safetys sake, and removed the valve cover and coated the cam and components with Mobil 1. Turned it over for the first time (plug wires removed) yesterday just to see if all was well. Turned clean. By the way, all was spick and span under the valve cover when I removed it. Ultra clean up there....hope that's not a fluke. Couple of things I am wondering about. First off, the previous owner somehow magically managed to damage the 90 degree nipple on top of the valve cover. Part of if snapped off and he had attached a hose with a bend since the nipple that turns towards the breather was mostly gone. I will try to post a pic tomorrow to give a better idea of what I am talking about. Anyway, have not studied the valve cover yet to determine if this is a removeable piece, or pressed into it permanently. My guess is its permanent. No biggie, will fix or find. Lastly, since the hose that leads from the valve cover heads over to the air filter (at least on the original setup), would it not be possible, since the car is equipped with the webers, to run that hose to a seperate dedicated filter, instead of modifying the individual chrome breather assemblies mounted on the webers. The person that installed the webers modified the chrome breather lid on the foremost carb and attached the hose there. That may have been what was recommended. But if I keep the weber setup, and replace the fugly (scratched-pitted) breather setup that is in place now with a new set, I think it would look better without the hose attached to the top. If there is a vacuum or temperature issue I am overlooking.....just clue me in. Thanks for all the help people.

I'm still trying to get over the stiff chedder comment. :nervous: That's too funny. Too bad you don't have a local track Bill, where you could zoom without the radar.

WOOOHOOOO!!!! I struck a gold vein of information. Thanks again people. Carl, the plate in the door jam reads 3/72 and HLS30-73112. Same HLS number as the ID plate in the engine compartment. I am trying to get the Datsun in the garage asap. Right now it's under the car shelter. As soon as I can get it in there, I will start making my list of needed parts. Hope to have it in the door by the weekend. I have the garage from hell. Boxes of PC parts, Motorcycle parts, etc. stacked everywhere. This shall be remedied soon. At any rate... you people are a great help. Thanks again. I will check out the recommended sites above.

Thanks for all the great info. DatsunZGuy.....the site you mentioned looks good. I will check it out. Ed....as for the Victoria British catalog, it just came this week. I will keep my eyes peeled for the MSA one you spoke of. All of the feedback is greatly appreciated. Hope ya'll don't mind if I stick around for a while.

First off....let me say thanks to all the people involved in making this site as wicked as it is. I have not been a member here long, but in the short time that I have been stumbling thru....I have been genuinely impressed. I soon will start the restoration of a 1972 240Z, and am trying to absorb as much information as I can not only about the restoration process whether it be mechanical or body repairs, but also the differences within a particular model year (which may be few.....I don't know). What I am saying is, just surfing about the site I am hearing terms such as Fairlady, Samuri, L88 Head casting, etc...... and it makes me wonder just how many differences, if any, there were in a particular year. Were there in fact differences just as Chevrolet had the RS, SS, Z-28, in the Camaro line all in one year. Or when you purchased a 1972 240Z 4 speed.....was it identical to every other 4 speed on the lot of that same year (other than interior-exterior color scheme of course). I so far have acquired the original engine service manual, chassis and body service manual, and the Wick Humble Z-Car restoration book, but would love to find a book....or site....that would educate me on the differences, if any, within a single years production, or even a model span (all years of 240). If this is an ignorant query.......put your seatbelt on.....it's gonna get worse before its all over. Thanks people.

Thanks......now I'm off to buy a battery and some Marvel.

Will do that for sure....at this point, just want to make sure the engine is not locked. Picked it up about a week ago, and got it sheltered. Should have it in the garage by tomorrow. Probably gonna be a long project. Want to take it down to the dirt....and get it squared away. Trying to absorb as much info from you Z'ers as possible, so that I might feel comfortable calling myself the same :classic: . Last tear down was a Kawasaki. Am afraid this one might take a bit longer. Anyway....almost picked up a 240z way back when I was around 19 and ended up going a different route. Always had a soft spot for em. Now.... 20 years later, this one surfaced. Found it on a back road while balancing cable amps. Somewhere along the way the car was painted white, but the original color was yellow....almost a green tinted yellow. Same color as the one I passed up way back when. Could it be? Hmmmmm. Long boring story I know. Sorry. Thanks for the advice Bambikiller240......will probably need more before its over.

Excellent advice NovaSS. Thanks heaps!

I have recently picked up a 1972 240Z that I plan to restore. This car has been sitting for quite sometime....since 1999 to be exact. I plan on draining and cleaning the fuel tank of course, but was looking for suggestions on what to do before attempting to turn the engine over....such as spark plug removal and spraying lube in the cylinders etc. Any suggestions that will make this a less stressful event for my engine would be welcomed. At this point....actual starting of the engine is not important.I am just making sure it will turn over first. Thanks loads!!