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Howdy all. One last thing before I can yank the engine. I have attached a picture of the shifter, and have a question. As you can see, each attachment point is has a letter. What I need to know is if you guys removed both B and C, or were able to get by with removing "A", and just removing the chrome shifter. What I had in mind as you can tell by the pic, is removing B and C, but the flat head screw ( is gonna be a tough cookie. I tried a large flathead with an adjustable wrench on the flat part of the blade for assistance, but I am worried that I am gonna booger up the screw.....that turkey is ultra tight. Didn't know if the trannie would drop down far enough to clear without removing the entire mech. Let me know.....and thanks in advance.

Does anyone else here think its fugly besides me?

This is the video link from the auction. http://www.doublegutshot.net/z.wmv

Awwe come on guys........everybody knows that is Speed Racer's car. :laugh:

Tip of the iceberg. If that's all you have.....count yourself lucky. Want enough rust pictures to start a documentary......just let me know.

Hey, my oiler bar also had problems. The tubes do in fact seem to be brazed in place. I would not use JB Weld myself on an internal engine part. Upon removal of the valve cover, I notice the short tube up front, closest to the timing chain was in fact missing. Don't know if it fell down below the timing chain area, or was lost by the previous owner. Anyway, I made a visit to the junkyard and picked up a complete undamaged tube. Either pick up a used one, making sure it is solid, with all oiler holes pointing in the right direction, or go lightly with the brazing so as not to block the flow. Remember to align the pinholes correctly, and if you pick up a used one.....run some carb cleaner thru it to clean out the gunk. Good luck. And yes.....this is common.....the one on my 260 parts car was bent, and all tubes could be easily spun. Would be a good idea for anyone that takes the valve cover off to check the tubes while you are in there for tightness, and oiler hole direction. BTW, I should have the engine out of mine by the end of the week, and will let you know if the short tube shows up in an ugly place.

Here ya go. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Fcgiurl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fcgi.ebay.com%252Fws%252F%26fkr%3D1%26from%3DR8%26satitle%3D4612760871%26category0%3D%26fvi%3D1&item=4612760871

Just a quick update. Made the trip to the junkyard today and picked up the bolts I needed. The bolts circled on the picture at the beginning of this post are actually longer than I expected. The bolts on the opposite side of the cam, though shorter, will still require several washers to shorten them up enough to use. They should work fine after shimming. Just thought I would give a heads up to anyone that may need this info in the future. Also, a 10mm socket/hex, extension, and 1/2" breaker bar would be the preferred method of removal. The bolts almost made my 3/8" Craftsman rachet blow a nad, but it thankfully held together. Thanks again everyone.

No problem Enigma. Will let you know how it turns out....and if the engine ends up on the floor.:nervous:

Reading back thru all the threads, I found many suggestions to use headbolts when mounting the engine to the stand. They are the correct size and pitch to do the job. The only (retail) place I have found around here was an actual Nissan dealership who wanted $6.90 each for the bolts. NAPA said theirs were not strong enough (hardened). Carquest, Advance, and Autozone looked at me like I was crazy....which I am....so I took offense. The junkyard is totally appropriate in my opinion for this purchase. Besides, its an engine thats been pretty raided already....valve cover, distributer, intake, carbs, etc. all gone. First come first served bud. Those bolts have my name written all over em. I am picking up the oiler tube, and four headbolts for $5.......nuff said.

Very true. It is also true that people are quick to slam a product that they themselves have never worked with, because of something their 2nd cousin told them they read in a forum while surfing a BBS on a C64, or because they themselves have invested tons into their triple webers, and need assurance the money spent equaled the power gained. I feel sure it all boils down to the application. To each his own. :sleepy:

I think the word abandoned is getting twisted a bit. Obviously somebody owns the property, but just does not live there. Anyway.....no matter. Good luck with the cars......just don't get shot. That pain will not gain you anything. BTW, I guess nobody ever went back and saved the guy buried in front of the Vette (mentioned earlier). If that's not the owner, it could be another late night investigator. Be careful that the fella that told you about this is not in on some evil plan. This has "Blair Witch" written all over it.:devious:

MikeW, got the correct hex/socket I need ready to go. Thanks. Gonna carry a breaker bar with me and see how it goes. 26th-Z, thanks also for your info. I found out a week or so ago about the 3 different sizes. Dropped by the local Nissan dealership with thoughts of possibly ordering some. The guy gave me 3 part numbers, and a price sheet showing me how proud they were of them. He said he was not sure if he could get them or not. No bother.....the local junkyard has all I need. As mentioned earlier, I will be using them for the engine stand, so I just wanted to make sure I got the longer ones. Was not sure how much of a booger these would be to break loose, so now I know exactly which ones to shoot for without wasting time (lunch break). Thanks again for all the good info.

Hey man......please don't take this the wrong way.....but I just have to ask how you walk around with a set that big. The mere fact that you entered the property at night with a flashlight slink'n around looking at cars is sheer bravado. Then you went back the next day with a camera lifting hoods and opening doors. You are my hero. I too live in the south, and there are not too many places around here where I would attempt that. Don't get me wrong.....the people around here are awesome, but they know what belongs to them and they like to keep it that way. I can assure you a flashlight bouncing around in my backyard at night would have drawn some wicked attention from me.....and my neighbor for that matter. Oh yeah.....I know you said it was an abandoned house..........that belongs to somebody. In the meantime.....I hope you are able to purchase them all. But be careful......could be like the witch's house in Hansel and Gretel..."Deliverance" style.

Hey.....this will be short and sweet. What I need to know is which headbolts are the longest. I will be running back by the junkyard Monday, and I need some headbolts for my engine stand. I have attached a picture below, with the bolts I am guessing are the longest, since they pass thru the cam towers. Click on the pic if you will and let me know if I have made the right assumption. Sorry for the lame question, but this will save me a bit of time.

I found him!!! I found him!!! He is in the last set of pictures! Just to the front of the side profile pic of the vette. It's his fingers reaching out from behind that metal thingy leaning to the left! Go back now.....tonite! If you get him outta there......he may cut you a deal. :surprised

I am no authority....not even close, but it seems from what I have read the Sharp, Arizona, etc. intakes were in fact preferred by some over the later flat-top SU's. These aftermarket intakes seemed to have been most commonly found on the 260z. My opinion is still out on all the 90 degree comments. Seems no matter the carb, the fuel still has to make that horizontal run to the head. At least the top feeding carb gives it a good gravity induced pat on the back. At any rate as stated before, everyone has an opinion. I think it all depends on your particular application. Best bet, talk to someone that has in fact utilized this type of set-up, and installed it correctly. There must have been a market for them at some point.....companies don't usually continue manufacturing parts like this where there is no demand. Oh....by the way.....I think you mentioned test driving the car.....and your comment was that it was fast. The intake must work fairly well I guess.

Oh yeah.....here ya go. http://www.datsunhistory.com/Sharp.html

Funny you should mention the intake. I have just finished sealing all the openings on this one so I can polish it up a bit without getting any abrasives inside. This one includes what looks like a 2 bbl adaptor. Not sure what I will do with it yet. Have SU's and downdraft Webers at my disposal. Have not seen too many of the Bob Sharp one's around. Looks very similar to the Arizona one. Did some google research on Bob....kind of interesting. I think you will find both people praising and bashing it here on this site, but I found some ancient info on the web a while back speaking highly of it. Not sure of the value though....sorry.

Thanks everyone.....fantastic information.

Thanks for the info.

Looking to pick up a half mask respirator for general body/paint/sandblast etc. Was wondering what everybody uses. Just trying to protect the old windbags. Noticing a lot of 3M and AOSafety products around. I would like to find something that will still have replacement filters available a year down the road. Don't wanna spend a fortune, but do wanna keep my lungs stretchy.