Ricklandia

Tom, Check out this site: http://www.autolaptoplinkinc.com/index.html Be warned, the little "talking head" is annoying and creepy, but after you get used to him, the pages have loads of ideas, pointers, photos and info on various laptop mounting options. The prices on these models is very respectable IMHO, should you want something more permanent. As for temporary use, I would think that just sitting it on the passenger seat would be more than enough cushion, or at least as good as anything. X-tra foam wouldn't hurt as long as the venting is considered, but I honestly don't know that it's necessary. Laptops can take a pretty fair amount of vibration. As for power, I would be very wary of just plugging into the fusebox for power, especially knowing how fragile the electricals on these old cars are. You would probably be better served pulling power off the battery through a relay, something like the fellow here did in making the headlight harness. I wish I could be more helpful here but I'm not that good with electrics. I bet a good forum search for guys looking to power up electronics safely will give some good info. As for the HandiAVI program, is it actually CONTROLLING the little camera? Or just able to make the movies from the frames? If it can control it, I may try it with my little KODAK camera and see what happens!

A couple more links for you: http://www.azcendant.com/ (HandiAVI v2.0) http://www.imagesalsa.com/MovieSalsa/ (MovieSalsa) Both are time-lapse movie programs designed to work with either webcams, or firewire/usb savvy camcorders. Please keep us posted on your progress. If I ever manage to get my Z roadworthy again, I would be interested in doing something similar. On the subject of mounts, I would think it might be possible to consider one of the suction type mounts and simply mount it to the rear hatch glass (inside). You may need to make a bracket if your camera's only mount is on the bottom but that shouldn't pose too much trouble. In fact, I'm sure those can be found as well. The possible added benefit of that might be if you wanted to get at least some of the interior into the shot. Most of these camcorders do not offer a very wide field lens as standard. I'm trying to locate an online movie someone sent me of a competition 240Z making a few laps at Thunderhill raceway. It's a gas to watch, in fact it's the movie that pushed me over the edge in deciding to find another Z... that Z inline 6 sounds awesome.

If you google CAR CAMERA MOUNT you'll find many different options for mounting a video cam in your car, from suction mounted devices, rollbar mounts, even head restraint mounts (although that wont work on stock 280 seats) I would strongly DISCOURAGE using magnetic anything as a mounting device. Even though the video cam (DV or otherwise) is considered DIGITAL, it still uses a magnetic oxide tape to store the media, and any strong magnetic field is going to be a problem - especially one powerful enough to hold the camera in place! Even if it doesnt use DV (or VHS, Digital8, 8mm, dvd, etc) any strong magnetic field is likely to create nightmare-ish problem. Stick a strong speaker magnet by your laptop and see how quickly it gets hosed. If you go the laptop/webcam route, there are also a number of laptop isolation mounts. As for the time lapse itself, you can go a couple of different routes, depending on what equipment you already have, what quality you need, and what you're willing to spend. If you already have a timelapse DV Camcorder capable machine, you're all set. If not, you can always record in regular mode (SP, or even LP if your camcorder allows) and do the time lapse in an NLE like Premiere Pro (or others). Same goes for a standard VHS camcorder if you have a means of digitizing it. If you go the laptop/webcam route, there are plenty of freeware programs that will grab stills at whatever interval you need which you can then assemble into a movie using an NLE program. If you are an APPLE person, there are a few software options for pulling your images directly off your iSight cam, or any camera that provides a Quicktime driver (see istopmotion.com)

If memory serves me, I think it's in the $30-35K range.

Believe it or not, I know the guy(s) that make this. His home town is Watkins Glen, and although I've never met him in person, I chat with him often via IRC. I met him through an online race sim league. Nice guy. Last time I caught him online, he said business was good. Not too many private customers, but he has had interest from "theme parks" and other business type ventures worldwide, even cruiseship companies. I don't know how many here do any online PC sim racing, I haven't done any serious in the last couple of years because of time restraints, but I still try to keep up on what's out there. Some pretty amazing realistic race sims are available, and if you have the time to practice, the online competition is flat out exhilerating. I do have a copy of Simbin's GT Legends which simulates historic sedan racing, but unfortunately no Datsun's are modeled, it's based on whatever cars currently run in Europe's Vintage Racing series (cant remember the name). Any other online race sim guys out there?

Question: If you are using lead soldering (excellent videos BTW), can you use the lead as a bonding agent as well? For example, I have a dent in nearly the exact corner as you've repaired in the photo (driverside rear). If I found a piece of panel, could I use the lead to "weld" in the piece instead of actually welding it then leading it? It looked as if that was what you did with the gas filler lid, or am I mistaken?

Thanks for the offer Andy, I may just take you up on the offer. I'm currently discussing with a host site, but if it falls through, I'll drop you a PM.

This is probably a bit of a bump, but I want to keep this thread alive. I've experimented enough with this method to commit painting my Z with it. It probably wont happen over the summer, just too humid here (Florida) but maybe next winter. I'm seriously considering doing my two other cars (my Miata and the Wife's Alfa). In the mean time, I'm trying to secure some free webspace to create a website dedicated entirely to this idea of roller painting. The original MOPARTS thread is still going strong (40+ pages) but it can be a bit difficult to navigate through. There are lots of repeat questions, and more than a few misleading suggestions. I've already talked to some of the more serious contributors/experimenters on the site, and hope to condense down the "methods and materials" into more easily understandable "how-to". Most importantly, I want to get first hand information from folks who have actually tested and worked with this method, including myself, instead of relying on heasay and opinion. It all may not happen overnight, but something this significant is worth waiting for.

Just a little bump for those who were interested in this thread. The original MOPARTS thread is now at 38 pages and still going strong, it's starting to see posts of entire cars being painted using this method with some pretty interesting results. Of interest here, posted the other day was this link to a 240Z just finished. FWIW - I've started the test project of painting the riding mower, but it's been going slowly as work has been consuming my time. Plan to get back to it this weekend for paint coats 4 & 5.

Never done what? Retire or buy a Z? JUST KIDDING! Seriously, if this is your first Z, just start reading the forums. There is more Z info here than any one person can absorb. If your thinking of a Z as a retirement project, I think you made the right choice. They're affordable, reliable, parts are reasonable and available - and they are fun to drive too! You'll find plenty of material here to help you in your search, rust is probably the number one concern. One of the things that made these cars so popular is that they are light, but that came at the cost of thin sheet metal and rustproofing was not thier strong suit. Read up, have fun, put the search function to good use.

luv it - cant wait for your gallery photos to get approved. Been a long time fan of rally, it's sad we don't get much of it here in the USA to watch. Even WRC is off the air this season.

I know this idea might offend many of the Z crowd here, but in all seriousness - seeing the "Veggie Z" was my inspiration to buy a Z some 20+ years after my last one. I had been toying with the idea for years of having a Z to "play with", to keep me out of trouble so to speak. In the last few years I started to get a little more serious about the idea when I came across the "Veggie Z" - truly inspirational - have the car I've always loved, and make it environmentally friendly and educational too! Okay, I'll admit it was also an excuse to justify buying a Z, but it worked! Got the Z. But I've also always kept an eye open for the seemingly elusive '81-'82 Nissan Maximas which came with diesels and what I've noticed is A) they are truly rare birds, and B)certain parts are EXTREMELY hard to find for them should they need repair. I'll be straight up here - I KNOW the diesel isn't going to light anyone's hair on fire with it's sluggish performance. I really don't care. I've had plenty of uber-fast cars and my fair share of adrenaline moments, at least enough that it's not that important to me any more. Driving something that makes a statement - a GOOD statement, that is appealing to me at this stage in life. Ever the optimist, I've been recently thinking... what other I-6 diesel engine has been produced, and is relatively common for access to parts and repairs? The obvious answer is Mercedes Benz. So I guess this question goes out to you all, anyone out there have working experience with MB I-6 diesel engines? At this point I think the first question to ask is... would it fit without major modifications?

I was always under the impression that "dieseling" (engine sputtering after engine shutdown) was more a factor of the timing being off (too retarded) than rich carbs. Have your checked your timing? As a kid (teen) back in the 70's, this was a very common problem as we had to de-tune plenty of 60's - early 70's high compression V-8's when high octane gas started to dissappear and detonation ping was rampant. Retarding the timing would cure the "pinging" but mileage and performance would suffer, and dieseling would occur if you retarded the timing too much.

If it just quits on you, my guess would be electrical. I'll throw this at you for what it's worth. My first Z was an early 260 like your - this was back in the early 80's. It had the original electronic ignition and it started doing what yours was doing - randomly crapping out on me. I called up my Z guru (a local shop that specialized in Z's) and spoke to the owner. This is what he told me, and I quote, "Next time it happens, take a box end wrench, find the electronic ignition box (little black box), and whack it with the wrench." I said to him, "You gotta be F'n kidding, right?" He told me he was dead serious. Sure enough, it worked. The problem was it only worked for a little while (day or two then it would happen again). Even back then, the box was an expensive replacement and honestly less reliable than the 240 dual point distributor, so we swapped it out. Dunno if this is the same problem as yours, but it sure sounds familiar.

Too bad. On the bright side, that now gives me an excuse to look for a second Z for the garage! :stupid:

Gotta question for you - I've got a '73 that could use some fresh rear quarter panel badges - do you know if those '70-'71 "240Z" badges will work without modification?

Your source shows badges with "432" on them. These refer to...?

C'Mon XRay, tell us how you REALLY feel!

I would tend to doubt it. SPEED TV covers the BJ Palm Beach auction, but in the past not nearly the same coverage as the Scottsdale auction - which is much bigger. I'll bet they will only cover the "big ticket" sales.

"...old guy..."? You got something on your mind...?