Ricklandia

Adjusting the timing is really simple. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt slightly, just enough that you can physically turn the entire distributor housing. Turning the distributor housing clockwise or counterclockwise will either advance or retard the timing. Getting this timing correct is important. It can be done without a light, but that assumes the car is already running somewhat correctly. I'm starting to think your's might have more involved if you cant get it running at all. Is it trying to run at all?

I would like to thank the morons at the local (insert local autoparts store here) for screwing up my perfectly planned weekend. Stopped in and ordered two new tie rod ends, and new front brake lines, already had the ball joints. "No problem", the counterman tells me, "they'll be here on Wed". Perfect. I ordered some sway bar bushings and a few other needed items from VB, even paying for a little rush delivery so I can have them by the weekend. Three days to work on the car, chug a few brews, watch good racing on the tube while I work... what could be better? I'll tell ya what could be better... if the MORONS at the parts house would do their friggin jobs! Stopped in after work yesterday to pick up the parts, open up the boxes to inspect (this aint my first time at the rodeo) to find... two completely different tie rod ends, and two completely different brake lines. AAAAaaaarrrrggghhhhh!!!!! :mad: So the Z will sit on stands for at least another week till I can get in the correct parts, from VB this time.

Possible the distributor got turned while you were working on it? When you're cranking the motor does it sound like it's "trying" to fire at all? Backfiring out the tailpipe sounds like the ignition timing is severely retarded, causing the spark timing to ignite long after TDC, so much so that the exhaust is loading up with unburned fuel. First thing I would be doing would be to whip out the timing light and check the timing. Pronto. If you don't have one, they're not too expensive at the local parts chain stores (~$30-$35)

Doesnt that just drive you bonkers! You take the time and energy to replace a part, then spend hours if not days trying to figure out why it didn't fix what it should have. What ever happened to factory quality control? How's it going with the electrical cutout problem?

Here's a highly compressed grayscale version for you dialup users that just want a quick peek. Acrobat does some goofy things in the conversion, but you get the idea. Mr. Camo, I got an error when trying to view yours, that's why I made this version.

Vacuum leak? Is the car idling normally? might be something as simple as the integrity of the booster vacuum hose.

No new cartridges. I was just thinking about heat transfer to the tube from the knuckle itself. The tube seemed to be fairly thin cased. Thx for the advise.

Thx Carl. what I'm worried about is if I need to put heat to it like I did with the tie rod ends. I pounded on them for damn near a 1/2 hour before I had to break out the propane torch to heat things up. I removed the rubber o-ring, I'm just worried that the heat might not be good for the strut casing if I need to fire up the torch again. The front suspension looks like it's never been touched, the balljoints look like they're in there but good. I've been soaking them in WD40 for days but I don't think it's gonna help much. A bench will be nice one day but I don't think it can happen for a while, unless I'm forced into it by this job. Anyone ever have to put a torch to get their ball joints out?

DUMAS question: I'm replacing my ball joints. I removed the steering knuckle bolts and dropped the torsion arm down to get at the ball joint castle nut. the ball joint is severly stuck in place. I have a ball joint fork, but what I want to know is if it's safe to bolt back up the steering knuckle so I can slam it out? My tie rod ends were stuck bad enough that I had to put a torch on the arm to break it free. I don't have a solid bench or bench vise to do it off the car. Does anyone have a suggestion to break free the ball joint on the car, or is it time for me to invest in a decent bench and vise?

S.O.P. for bleeding brakes is always start with the brake FARTHEST away from the M/C - so it would be passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.

The idle issue is most likely related to the Vacuum booster. Check the line for leaks, if not that, it might be the booster itself. As for the Master cylinder, no leaks anywhere? (wheels cylinders?) Just to be sure, in what order did you bleed the brakes?

Have you ever tried the "chrome" paint? I got all the way to the hobby shop but totally forgot to ask the modellers there about that.

Any tips on paint removal from the plastic lenses? I'm gonna take a drive to the hobby shop and see if anyone there has a recommendation for restoring the "chrome" strip. If I find out anything I'll be sure to post it STAT.

hehe - When I pulled the rear deck carpeting on mine I found it painted in the glorious original 112 Yellow. It's very hypnotic, it even has me contemplating going back to it some day.

The effect can be seen by the naked eye, not only on film or video. The principle is the same: Much like a camera, your eye/brain combo has a limited ability to process information (light) and convert it to an image. In the case of your eye, it's roughly 50 frames or images per second although in most circumstances it's hardly discernable above 30fps. The "reversing" effect is simply a syncranicity issue.

Dude, if you don't get this taken care of, you might have NO car, not to mention no life! Don't push your luck on this one, things could go from bad to horribly wrong really quickly.

Oh man... I dunno about you, but I'd be more than just a little nervous about that. Inner tie rod ends gone bad maybe? Seriously, I'd get the steering rack looked at ASAP.

DONT DO IT!!!!!!! Seriously, if your car is HALF as good looking as the pictures, I wouldn't touch it! It's one thing to fool around with one that's already been altered or molested, but true UN-molested cars of this age are VERY hard to find. If you REALLY want to do one up, get a second car. Better yet, sell me THIS one and get a different one. JMHO

Phil, Any luck on the electical problem? I've been thinking (dangerous, I know) - is it possible that your fuse block is bad? Gotta head out for a function with the wife, but I should be back by 4pm today.

Damn, still not road ready yet. Hopefully for the next one though.

Are those for real? or Hollywood?

Okay, I got a new one for ya... Is a requirement that if you work at a dealer parts counter, you must be surly, unhelpful and generally miserable? I swear, I have yet to meet one that will even crack the faintest of smiles.

Oh. And all this time I just thought it was PMS.

Okay... Why is my wife constantly messing with my head?