carguyinok

The supertrap is a real nice way to go, if you have the money. I have had them in the past and . Plus there able to be tuned by the number of disc's you put in or pull out.

You may want to try a exhaust tip. They can change the note without going with a whole new muffler set-up. I am not sure of the name but there are a few packed much like a glass packs and they can take away alot of what you dont like for little money\work.

If you do drop the tank know the straps cant be replaced :stupid: So use caution and dont get upset and cut them thinking you can just buy new ones.:tapemouth Because noone has them :stupid:

Link to post of the same headache with good feedback

Sounds like a good time to get fuel injection. It should cost less if you get the whole set-up out of a bone yard.

Lets talk. Tulsa is about a hour and a half from me. I was there on friday. Click here to e-mail carguyinok

True, DO NOT USE the leg puller:finger: The lower pulley is also your balancer. If you use the leg puller you chance damage. The tool you are talking about is cheap and worth it vs over 100 for a new lower pulley. It bolts into the center of the pulley. This will insure that it pulls the WHOLE pully off and not just the pulleys off the balancer :sleepy:

Thank you, now I have a good list for what to look for. I will let you know if I have any luck in the hunt.

OH yah, :stupid: Nearest BIG city would be Kansas City as for Missouri or Kansas you pick

Dont waste the postage :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: IMO The car is nice dont get me wrong. It's the poor write up that makes me :tapemouth The writer should be :dead: IMO He didnt cover ANYTHING about the 240Z background or how much work this father\son team put in this car. They just rattle off a bunch of stuff as if it was just bolt & go. This ride is a nice (72 I think) 240Z covered in red with four wheel disc brakes 17" wheels and a early OHC turbo block with a five speed. The rag never said ANYTHING about what was feeding this motor fuel or spark. They did talk a bit about how cool the inside of it was. With the 5 point belts & race seats in matching red with roll cage. Just to forget to put a photo of it in :stupid: The only photos of the inside was a real close shot of PART of the gauges and another real close shot of the CD player "cool never seen one of those before:stupid:" Sorry, the rag just pissed me off with write ups about skylines GTRs ("that 99.96% of there readers will never even sit in let alone own.") That give every little spec on the ride. Then get a real wolrd car that there readers could own some day and forget what car specs are :sleepy: :sleepy:

MFG 10/72 HLS30-129290 Motor L24 136144 with matching ID plate under the hood. Stock head after market cam and valvetrain with early round top su's 4 speed. Car was dark brown with tan interior. At this time she is sitting in primer as just the shell awaiting paint.

ROFL ROFL #2 and I:love: that lambo\van in #3

Thats a good one. I am not sure about the 2 door end of that. But I do know my 64 four door impala is called a ( Hard Top ) from the lack of window pillers between front and rear doors.

You would be around the same if not less by the time you put the + on there for getting your twice pipes installed. Sure you could clamp them on but I hope you didnt just pay over $150 just to clamp it on . With glass packs around $30 each X 2 = $60 now a Y pipe and chrome tips go $20 theres $80 labor and pipe shoud be maybe $50 - $80 so $130 - $160 . Sure I think they can and you can get sound, pipe size, and tip style choices

That is up to you If you run the car hard alot they will go out faster :stupid: On the good side there cheap to replace. I have used glass packs alot and loved them. The thing to keep in mind is they take running time before you hear the true note. The way the twice pipes are set-up they (should) last longer being they are at the tail pipes. Most of the people running glass packs have them far to close to the motor. This puts more raw fuel and heat in the pack and makes it burn out much faster. With your cat. If you keep it (if its any good) The twice pipes should last longer. BUT with the cat on you will loose some of the sound and performance you are searching for from this system. Thats up to you. If I was looking for this type of set-up. I would make a trip to a exhuast shop. Take a photo of the twice pipes with and ask what they would charge to make it. It sould be less then what the twice pipes go for and installed on top of that. Another good thing about this is the shop can help you with the note or sound you are looking for with diff size packs. Oh yah plus your new system would be welded and not just clamped on.

If you are wanting to find or price for shipping a car within the USA it not hard. Open your phone book and look up your local dealer only auto auction. They will have transports running cross country 24/7.

Thank you all for the replys. I will be getting the brass plug. I can understand with the higher motor temps. Been there done that :stupid: and wont do it again. Even before I had thought of removing the heater lines. My plan has a oil cooler with remote oil filter. I used one on my 73 corvette and my motor temp NEVER went in the danger zone and that was in Vegas. With the weather and traffic thats saying something From that point on I was sold.

Yes, there is a internal fuel filter in the elec. pump. There will be a set screw on the side of the pump. get it loose then twist the cover counterclockwise it shoud pop off. Once that is off there will be a magnet then a gasket then the filter. :cheeky:

Thats what I thought :sleepy:. Oh well it was worth asking. :classic: There are casting #s I was not sure if they ment anything.

All true points I understand. The main reason I want them gone is I dont want to deal with the heatercore. If you saw what the inlet and output lines look like you would understand. :sleepy: and almost $150 for a new heatercore :stupid: I also have had the lines off with the motor in the car. It looked so much better :cheeky: Real clean and clutter free. Oh yah, and the less hoses there are to spring a leak the better I feel. :classic:

Ok, I am now going with my stock block\head combo( Now that I know it is the matching # for my ZROFL ). I have no plans what so ever of putting my Z on the road in anything other then nice weather :stupid: So there gose my need for the heater. I am also putting the SU's off to the side for fuel injection. This may sound :stupid: but I feel with the Z less can be more (as far as headaches go) so why not block off the unused water passages? like the lines for the heater core and the coolant lines for the intake. I guess where I am going with this is. Has anyone else here done this ? If so what type of plug was used for the heater line hole at the back of the head? How deep can you go with say a bolt before you start blocking the water passage? I am looking for a VERY VERY clean motor bay. I dont want or need half lines with hoseclamps and plugs. Just looking to lose anything not needed.

Dose anyone make a roller rocker that will fit the Z? With the small wheel on the rocker where it hits the cam. While talking cams. How can I tell what cam I have? Are there stamped #s on it that will tell me what I have? Now that I am going with the matching # motor I would like to know what I have :stupid: I know it's a hotter then stock cam but would still like to know.

I was standing in line @ autozone ( I think thats all anyone dose there) and they have a huge deal of Ricer Toys they just got in stock. One of the things was the LED dash lamps. I think they had them marked $13.95 for two sets of three with dimmer.

Turns out the thunderbird SC I was getting had a bad supercharger. I called ford and they don’t sell the parts anymore so I let it go. I guess it was a good thing to find this out NOW rather then once I had it in my Z. I was so down because I sold my 350 tpi motor for the funds. I thought I was back at square one for my dream Z. Then I started looking at the motor I pulled from her in the first place. The PO of my Z told me the motor had been changed out with a hotter motor and it was not stock so I never looked twice at it. Turns out it’s the matching # block for my Z with a new lower-end and fresh head . I knew the motor was fresh but took the PO for his word that it was not the motor that came in the car. Now I feel like a total dumb arse:stupid:. I have been looking at and working doing a conversion on this Z only because I thought (took someone else’s word :tapemouth ) that it was not the matching # motor for the car. Now after almost 2 years of parts saving and planning the game plan has changed . Most of you here will be very happy to hear THE MATCHING # MOTOR IS GOING BACK IN:classic:. I am still going to wizz off a few with fuel injection. UMMMM anyone out there looking for a Richmond GM 6 speed? Now I don’t need it anymore and could sure use the money. I will part with it for what I paid $1500. This trans new is over 3000. I also have the ECU for the 350tpi left with some other GM parts if anyone is looking.

It has been years since I have done them. I do remember them as being a BIT**:tapemouth. I put the inside bushing in first then without the outside bushing put the large washers on and crank the nut on. This can help seat the inside one. Then back the nut off and push the outside one on and see if you made enough room for the nut.