carguyinok

With the brakes being hard I would look at the (power booster\ Master Vac) BUT with the bleeders out from the back and no fluid leaking. Sorry I dont know:stupid: . Maybe a pluged or pinched line. I would start with getting someone to push the brake while you look for fluid or air moving in the master cylinder. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE park it untill its fixed. The loss of the Z would be bad enough but you may hurt or kill :dead: yourself or worst of all someone else. :dead:

AND

I was looking around and came across these.

I dont have the answer but if there is a 76 out there I will take some pics. I should be there tomorrow.

Box, Door, or bolth ?

Alittle better photo

:tapemouth Took this photo from another site. Hope it helps you.

Just wondering what parts are you looking to see? A bone yard I use alot has a few 260 & 280s. For the most part the cars are there for rust damage so inside they are in good - fair. I would be happy to take some pics for you.

Very true. On a good note metal coated in oil dose not like to rust. I would ask " how did that red wire get through the floor on the right side?" I would also look at the floors near the rear of the doors. It looks rusty there but I cant tell from the photo. LOOK HARD :devious: at the frame rails under the hood. Where the sway bar is mounted is a good spot for starting your look.

texasz I will look around @ a few of the older first gen. 4-runners. I am just unsure if there would be a good 4-runner in that price range. I know some one with a 4-runner 98 I think. Very happy as you said you are with yours. VERY VERY TRUE:D There not around here. The only other Subaru legacy I have even seen is owned buy a postman. He imported a RHD one for running his mail route. Another thing is they rust bad. I took mine with me from Vegas so it's rust free.

Happy days are here again. :classic: Good to hear she is alive once again.:devious:

Here I go. I need alittle help with making up my mind. :stupid: After a good run of 268,XXX miles. Yes a 1/4 of a mill in miles My 91 Subaru legacy is going down hill fast. ( on a good note the rear end in the subaru is the 4:11 that will fit a Z :devious: )So now I need a everyday driver. I am unsure of what I want. So why not post a list of wants and needs from a car and see what others think I should test drive. Miles. I drive ALOT not city roads but country roads. Far more dirt roads then most. Tons of hills and turns with alot of stoping and starting on large hills. I live within the Ozark mountain range OK :stupid: With the hills in mind I NEED power as in HP. Get up and go is a must. The roads around here are fast to say the least. With all the hills and speed limits 65 MPH country and 75 MPH interstate power is a MUST. Pulling out on a 65MPH blind hill with alot of 18 wheelers running 70+ is done every day. Yes there are tons of bad wrecks around here :dead: Space. I dont need tons of room. I would enjoy a 2 door sport style car but not needed. 4 doors are fine for me aswell. Makes it easy for the back seat and keeps the insurance down so. Tough I also live on route 66. Yes the real live Route 66 from the movies and songs from the 50s & 60s. Anyway the 50s & 60s are about the same years they did any work on it :tapemouth along with most of the other roads out here. Dont get me started on the dirt roads. Trust me there BAD rough with lots of large rocks and good size holes. #5 Money I am looking to spend at the top side $5000. I just dont know what to look at I have even been thinking truck but then I would loose the fun of the roads so..... Anyone ???? Thank You.

That photo of the T\A is one bad wreck:dead: Street racing will keep getting us photos like that. Or movie clips like this. CAUTION THIS IS A VID. CLIP WITH A STREET RACE GONE VERY BAD:dead:

Worth a try, You never know till you try. IMO the dye will get to it from the back side. I think it would save parts but spot in others.

Use to use it for the same thing @ my detail shop. Very easy if you take them out. Then you can can make up the dye and drop them in. This way you get the same color all the way across and dont chance sloping any on your seats. The die wont harm any metal so that fine. With the belts that retract. Pull them out all the way. I use a small visegrip on the belt so it wont retract. Then drop the belt in the dye. Leave the belt out for it to dry!!!!!!!!!!!!! Down side. The only real down side is that any tags on the belt will dye solid color aswell.

Sorry, I was wrong on the Microfische...... Microfilm is whats used. :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: It was early and I needed my coffee. :cheeky:

Yes, it is. This stuff is so cool when used proper. The color change paint is spendy for a reason. The main key of this paint is microfische (microfish) :stupid: It gets ground up into a powder as fine as babypowder and mixed with what will be the top coat. First the car will be painted with a dark base. Then the color change part gose over the top of that. I have always loved the looks you can get with color change paint BUT I would not paint a whole car with it. This is just IMO. I dont feel it was ever ment for the whole car other then trailer queen street rods. I would use it for a cool looking stripe job or some bad azz flames. I have seen it used for a flame job and WOW it was COOL. The flames looked like they would move around the car:love: I also have a few buddys that are into there lowriders. One has a 63 chevy pick-up low rider with the marble style paint. Looks real cool just dont damage it!!!!!! You will never match it:disappoin

One thing I do with cables, wires, and vac lines. Get some masking tape and a marker. Now as I pull I make a tab and mark it with a letter. Same letter bolth ends. Now when I make it back that way I am not going :stupid: It makes life easy in the long run.

Did you do this? It can LOOK seated and not be. I would pull the caliper outa the way. Place the wheel on and crank it down. You may want to post a bigger photo of the whole thing rotor and all . Hard to tell without seeing.

I must say the members. There are alot of automotive sites around and this site has a rare thing going. REAL PEOPLE with REAL CARS. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.

This is a real long shot. with the backfire and missing maybe a streched timing chain and it may have jumped one. Or maybe your distributor came loose and got a little turn on it?

That should be fine if not the best. If you start running reg unleaded 87 oct. you may start getting pings and or light knocks underload with the turbo. How do you like that janspeed turbo ? dont see many none the less get to talk with someone runnin one.

Oh yah I made sure on that. Turns out the 3.8 is the same size as the 5.0 just shorter by two cyl. :stupid: So that was easy. As for all the tubes up top there are 3 and they can move with alittle work. The supercharger is not much taller then the stock non SC fuel injection so thats not a big deal. Wouldnt take it that way from you. :classic:

Yes, I think it will find a good home under the hood of my Z. :cheeky: My plans have been a motor swap from day one on my Z. I have just been low on the money end as of late. I had a TPI 350 from a vette on the table for it for awhile. But when money was real low I sold it so.... But that was kind of a everyday swap for the Z and that not my style. Now money is not alot better but with looking at getting the whole car (thunderbird sc) for the money I dont think I can go wrong. Plus I cant find anyone that has done one so it looks like its on me to go first :devious:

You dont know how true that is But I cant wait to get started. I have been at a stand still so long. :tapemouth