carguyinok

Thak God the search is over. I was out running around from bone yard to bone yard today part hunting and hit gold. I found a bunch of 260 and 280s along with a ton of ZX cars. But just on a hunch I saw a newer ford thunderbird and thought I would look under the hood. BAM the hunt for my drive line is over:devious: Turns out the car is a 1993 thunderbird SC with a 3.8 supercharged V-6 and five speed. The car had a big time front hit and will never be good for anything but parts. Knowing this I talked with the owner and we set the price. Lets just say under 1000 :cheeky: It is VERY VERY clean with 54,XXX miles on it. I have never thought about this motor till I saw it sitting there. Then with the price a bell went off. I know it runs fine and I get the whole thing tons less then any other set-up I have looked into. So why not a supercharged V-6. Power Plant: The Super Coupe's comes equipped with a 3.8 liter V-6 powerplant that is force-fed with an Eaton Corporation supercharger. The 8.2 to 1 compression ratio, combined with six computer controlled sequentially fuel injectors, completes the well rounded underhood package. While running at a maximum 15,600 rpm's, the supercharger provides 12 psi of boost and as a resultant it develops 210 bhp at 4000 engine rpm's. The engine develops 315 lb-ft of torque at 2600 rpm. The supercharged V-6 delivers ample power without much noise but an underdrive kit and a performance chip are available to boost the horsepower rating to 255 bhp. Here it is I hope to get it home tomorrow or the next day. Then the fun starts :devious:

I do agree. I just posted but didnt want this lost by pushing it down. I would write in about my other half here but I am still looking But the test drives are fun as well you know :cheeky: Soon enough I will pick one or maybe she wil pick me who knows. Rick, it sounds as if you have found your soul mate and that make me happy for you. Most of all make sure she knows how proud you are of her.

I have had uni joint that pop and crack for months :stupid: Not that I am saying it a good thing or safe. The sound is the joint falling out of place then being forced back in place :sleepy: Once you hear it replace it. Otherwise once it falls you may find a shaft beating the hell out of everything on that side. Floors a-arms brake lines and so on.

If you are running the stock electric antenna you are kinda stuck with the switch. The old or stock style antenna did not have anything that would stop the motor from running till you let off the switch. I am sure there is a way that you could hook up a relay for it to work. But how is unknown to me :stupid: I would say buy a new style power antenna. Then its just the one wire from the head unit (the blue one) and your done. Just make sure if you use the older brush style car wash you shut off the radio off or it will get bent or broken real fast.

It sounds like you know what it will need for getting it back on the road. You will want to get that gas tank taken care of before jumping into the whole carb deal. Replace it or have it sealed other wise you will fight it the whole time. :tapemouth I would also look over anything rubber mounts lines so on. You have a heads up on most people doing this. Being your the 2nd owner that put it away 14 years ago. Most of us find these cars that have been stored for years but know little if any history on the car. What year and so on car is it anyway? Sounds like you may have a gem here.

The parts you are talking about can be a real pain in the ... I have been able to free them with a short screwdriver and prying on it. You dont get much of a lip but its there. Another thing. You can look just ahead of the (Y) and pull one pin to drop the cable adjustment rod. This can take some pressure off the clips.

Thats cool z kid. Do you have a copy that has the words clear? I would love to see that DOHC motor in one with full police dressing.

Ummm, Yes one way is he has stolen these things. The other is well stolen

Please oh please let me find a crackhead like that going into my shop. :devious: I dont think I would call the cops. They would be asking for the cops but they wouldnt get um

The way it sounds I would still be looking uni-joint. Yes, They can make a cracking sound over and over without falling apart. I would get the rear of the car in the air and turn the tires by hand. If its the uni you should feel\hear it. I am not so sure about the diff. mount. They dont make much noise when they go out (other then a thud) not a cracking. Hope it helps.

I would wire it up with the rear only. It's hard without seeing the CD player but alot of the higher end units (yes like Alpine) put more power to the rear speakers. So crossing front and rear could be a big no no

OK, let's see if anyone knows this time. :sleepy:

Look real hard imo. I dont live far from Springfield and the wet weather around here eats them up insideout :sleepy: . If one of the POs painted it white look harder :stupid: White is used as a good cover up for rust patch work. But for the parts list vs. money you may not want to pass. Then you can just look for a good shell. Hard to say without seeing.

Today I found myself pulling the rearend. I did things the hard way:sleepy: I needed to be able to move her so I pulled the rearend alone so the wheels could stay on. All said and done it wasnt so bad. :classic: Anyway, The rearend case has a cast number on it of 8311E4600 Dose it mean anything ? The case is steel but the rear cover is aluminum. Was the rear cover aluminum stock? Just wondering what I have here. The P.O. of this car did some parts swaping so I am unsure. 1973 240Z with build date in mid 1972.

Ok, There was just a thread was just posted about a set of M3 mirrors. In the post it said they are looking at the mirrors with the turn signal because they have pulled there side marker lights. Now, did Nissan make the side lamps blink with the turn signal on any 240 260 ? Here in the US they are just marker or parking lights that just stay on all the time with the switch on. I am not picking at anything. Just wondering if maybe thats one of those little RHD LHD changes that get overlooked.

I say go for it. :classic: It will be a good look IMO. Not over the top and still has some use in mind. I know one thing with aftermarket mirrors " You will get what you pay for" :finger:

A long block is any "special complete" engine minus outer items such as valve covers, flywheel, oil pan, timing cover, intake and exhaust manifolds and harmonic balancer. Generally, a short block is any long block engine minus internal components like cylinder head(s), oil pump, gaskets, lifters, sometimes timing components and camshaft.

Good to hear the car is from TX. The only thing I would say is with the money you are looking to spend. you should be more then able to find a nice car (out of state). I know of what your talking about and cant agree or STRESS enough as 2many said Where you live you almost need rust free from the start. Small rust spots will blow up in your face. It's some thing about the weather up there that just eats at um.:sleepy: Yes even in storage for the winter. (unless its heated ) It's a shame because the roads up north are just so much fun in the summer. The deep woods twisting roads. :love:

The photo you have posted did not come in here. So I dont know what it looks like and am unable to say one way or another. One thing I will say ( Being I grew up in MN. ) Look around!!!!!! OUT OF STATE!!!!!!!!! :finger: Like down south. You should know you live in one of the worst states for rust. Most all the datsun 240Zs I have ever seen from there even 10 years ago where way past help of any kind. If you are seeing rust that high in the car the chance of there being more(and much worse lower) are huge. :sleepy: IMO you would be far beter off just going for a look with no money in hand. The car you are going to look over is far from the only chance. Dont get caught up in the "Ahhh I can fix or patch that rust" for a 240Z NOW. That will bite you in the AZZ faster then well you know. KEEP UP THE SEARCH.

I love it. You know he has good taste.

I am not sure about how "EASY" it would be. The optima batt. are for the most part a shorter batt. then most so it should be good there. Now the base of that tray is the part that bolts in place. I have never seen one in a Z car. I put one in my vette and just cut away parts of the old stock tray (so it was flat) and mounted it on that. Very little room there (less then a Z) and the fit was good.

Here is a tray made for optima. Yes the cost is up there. Around $88 but the price was dropped from over 100 and it billet not chrome over tin. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4383&prmenbr=361

NO ROPE!!!!! You can mess things up fast pushing nylon rope in your motor. Think about it Nylon = Plastic Do you want a chance of plastic sitting on your piston or mixed in your rings. If your in a bind just get the piston up all the way TDC then the valve cant fall far enough to fall out.

You can replace them with the head on. There is a fitting that you can screw into the sparkplug hole that will hook to your air compressor. This will keep enough air pressure in the cylinder that the valves will be pushed up on the head and stay there. Then you can remove the rocker arm and pop the lash pad collet and retainer. Then lift off the springs. You will be looking at your seal after that. Just make sure you dont push the valve stem down hard enough to brake the air pressure seal between the valve and head or the valve will drop. Looks and sounds MUCH harder then it is.

After I pulled my cracked windshield I set it aside aswell. I have found that there is nothing better for mixing fiberglass on. :cheeky: It may sound funny but it works. The bend in the windshield along with how smooth it is make it so easy to work with the fiberglass. There are a few other things cracked windshields are good for but none of them are as a windshield :sleepy: