carguyinok

Spend the money. You will never be happy with what you will get with the $199 price. But if you are doing the same color that is on the car the price should be lower then a color change. Yes the should shoot the jams with the respray but if it is the same color they can just fade it in. This takes much less time and paint. With the trim you can save some big money with a good shop if you pull the basic things. Glass, You can pull the side glass and trim yourself easy. I would find someone who works with glass for pulling the front and rear unless you feel lucky. Pull the lights front side and rear. With this done have it towed in for prep and paint. I would ask the body shop to pull the emblems and any other striping on the body and put it back. You may pay more put its worth the money. They can be a real headache and unless they come off the paint will not get a good seal there. The prep work. You can do some your self if you want. I have found most would rather see the car the way it sit's without the glass and lights. It can be hard to find a shop that will paint over your prep work and stand behinde the paintjob. I have done this with my 74 corvette in the past (on the west coast) and the shop gave my car $1500 worth of work/paint for $800. This is just what I did for my driver/toy not show car paint just looking damn good at a fair price. All said and done I had about $1800. total in the redo for the body and glass. If you are wanting tint on your glass this is the time with it out. Here again less money if they dont need to deal with the whole car. Hope it helps. Have fun me&myvette.bmp

There is an easy test for your alternator. Start the car the take the positive cable off the batt. if the car stalls out asap then 90% that the alt is bad. Now this is just a road side testing thing. Nothing set in stone just a easy way to track it fast with little or no tools. Hope it helps.

I was watching the news here in Oklahoma and we are getting our first winter storm tonight. They said we should see heavy ice and light snow. But not to worry because they have 90 tons of salt for the roads around here. I just am so happy (for the first time in months) that my Z is stuck indoors.

Try talking with them. http://www.fixrim.com/ they have helped me in the past with wheels I didnt think could be fixed.

FUNNY I had the same dream the other night.

( I have plenty more pics of the Japanese circuit race cars, and particularly of the "Works" circuit race cars. However, I'm not going to start putting them up here as its probably not the best thing to do. ) Why not? :sleepy: We love our Z cars here and I think you could spark some new heat in some people that have just given up. Why keep the photos and storys locked away?

Another vote for centerforce here. I have used centerforce and can say they last. I pulled my motor and trans a few months back and the centerforce clutch looked like new after 30,000 hard miles. You will get what you pay for.

I know all about these cars :stupid: I hate them to the core. The car dealership I worked at in vegas had 2 of them. Now they where not done on the ZX shell but the ford T-bird and Corvette. They are ugly as can be IMO. But they are a blast to drive. Till you roll up on other people and have to duck out of sight unless you have on you pimp suit & hat. They made them on three cars the zx and corvette for the 2 seaters . Then the ford T-bird for the four seater. We had the corvette and the T-bird at our dealership. We where just off the strip in vegas and it still took over a year to get them sold for just under $12,000. A fool and there money will part sooner or later.

Well, there is one easy way. As long as your paint is not new (over one year old) . The fast way is just some paint thinner on a rag shoud wipe it off with little work. Just test a small part of the paint in a spot you cant see first. Just to be sure. Then wax ASAP. The other thing you could do is take your Z to a detail shop and have them buff it with cutting compound then glaze it. If you would like you could come up and see me at my detail shop . We could set a time on a weekend you are free and we could trade some Z storys and get your car done. I am closed on sundays so if you would like to set up a sunday I will help you out for no charge . So long as you bring the beer. Let me know. Always happy to help a fellow Z head out.

SEARS all the way here. They back up everything the sell all the way. You snap a wrench just take it to the store and walk out with a new one. No waitng for some truck to show up once a week( if your lucky) to get a new one. One thing no one has said ( that I saw) a cutting torch for cutting and or heating up rusty nut & bolts. Oya sorry we never deal with rusty bolts.

Yes, the upkeep can be a real pain. I have taken every part and put a real good glaze on them. I have done this with wheels and had the shine last well over a year whith little work. With the valvecover I have polished the lettering and raised bars and lower edge. Then painted the rest flat black. It looks so good.

Work is true. But worth it. The carbs are the easy part. I am working the intakes next. Then who knows timeing cover and waterpump. But when you can get this look with what you have with just some time and work with little money why not ?

Most of the ones I have seen with the aftermarkt aircleaners. The owners have just picked up a small cone type filter and sliped it over the tube on the cover. I have done this but will warn dont forget to clean it. Or you will get oil dripping after time. The other thing I have seen is running a rubber tube from the cover down the plug side of the block ending near the oilpan. Here again oil will build up over time where it ends.

here is the one I have done. This will look so much beter under the hood.

Do you have the motors or just the hook up on where to get them? I live in OK. and would make the drive into TX. for what I want. But I will not pre pay for anything as much as this without looking it over first. Please let me know. I have three people that are looking for them here aswell so maybe some kind of price cut for more then one ? Let me know.

Today I was sitting around at the shop looking at my motor on the stand . Just wanting somthing to do so I pulled the carbs and started in on the tops. first I took the tops off. Then used 150 sandpaper then 200 then polish and my benchgrinder with a buffing wheel. WOW I will post some photos soon. I have only done one top at this point it took me about a hour and a half. Now you can see your face in it. This is going to look so cool when done and back in place. Now if I can find a car for the motor. :stupid: But a plan is a plan and my body now will still be getting her V-8. So on gose the look for another GOOD shell close to home I hope. I will have photos up with them back on by friday I hope.

I know all to well what you are sayin. I have been looking @ putting some ( ricer ) parts in my shop. But after dealing with the part houses that deal in this stuff and talking with some of the dumb azz kids like you talk of . I just wont do it. I dont see them as any diff. from the mini truck people in the mid 80s early 90s. Pushing junk parts for the newest craze. Just give it time and it will pass just like hartburn only the hartburn is of the eyes & ears. Hang on @ the parts house job. I feel you may bump into kids like that more then you want but you will find more of the real motor heads there then kids. That will make life so easy for you later with knowing the real guys. The price cut on parts will never hurt eather. The thing that chaps my azz is all the ( custom ) cars. See the way I see things is. If you made or had the parts made then it can be called a custom car. But if you went and ordered pre made body parts as you can a pizza. Then glue them on so they stay in place so you can get the (cool?) look isnt custom. Thats just plug & play junk that looks the part.

Sorry, Miaimi OK. is upper north east on the MO. state line. But if you are up this way stop in.

Oh, yes primer is no rust proofer. But I did mine just so bare metal wouldnt be in the open air while sitting in the shop. Thats also why I said primer will make twice the work for who ever will paint it in color. See I have never found a paint guy dumb enough to paint over primer that has seen the street. So now you have one paint job that needs to come off before you can start on the prep work of whats under the primer. Just somthing to think of before you prime your car. If you dont have the extra money for the paint job? Will you have the extra later for the charge of stripping off the primer? Remember $30.00 of primer can cost you over $100.00 later.

Here is a link to my photos http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?ppuser=1469&cat=500&thumb=1 I did this before I found my body man. It was alot of work and now has been striped and re done by the real painter. I did this because i didnt want bare metal in the open air. I have mixed feelings on saying go for it. Doing it makes it look ok at best and will make twice the work for anyone who will be painting it later. P.S the picks of the car start on page 2 I think. :stupid:

yes there are some glass parts out there. But the Z will rust from the inside out . So if you look at one and say well I can buy glass front fenders. You will be looking at front frame rails and so on. Where you live if you see any rust or bondo walk away. If you can see it at all whats under that will be stuff that looks like sand that use to be a metal part. Now I dont know how much work you are looking at getting into. But I do have A 260 shell that is solid but needs ALOT of tlc and the interior is not there but the body and so on are all good with no frame or floor pan rust. I am about 12 hours from you.

Welcome in on the love of the Z. It sounds like you have the plan and need the car. Sorry but I grew up in MN. and you will need to drop in south of upper Oklahoma if you wish to find a body worth your time under 3 grand. Your neck of the woods is just the worst for rust. I am just looking to let you know its going to take you some real hunting. But if you just keep looking who knows. Just dont think you can fix up a rusty 240Z. It wont work out.

How true about the glass. and crome. once you treat anything it feels like silk and is even hard to leave a fingerprint on. It just wont stick. I dont know when you last had dri wash but I do know they did some changes in 98 99 so you may want to look it up.

Hello people. I have taken alot of time and done a ton of homework on the best finish for for your car. This is because I have opened a detail shop and only wanted the best of the best. I have been detailing cars from every day drivers - Ferrari for over 14 years. I do know what I am doing and talking about. I would never back or sell anything that could harm any car in any way. The line I use is called dri- wash yes dri not dry. This is by far the best out there. It is used on eight of the ten most expensive cars in the world . The biggest reason you dont see this stuff in stores is the cost. The other is the fact that if you call on getting there stuff they try and turn you into a dealer for them. ( at first this left that nasty amway taste ) then you need to get over the fact that they push it as a waterless carwash (snake oil) . But this is not the case at all. See this is all real and the waterless part is true. If you think about it the way we have been cleaning or cars it is the worst thing you can do for you baby is turn the hose on it. when you run water over dirty car the water will wash the dirt into places you dont see and will cause ware under trim work and other points you cant see. This is what will help the rust grow where you wont see till it is way to late. With dri-wash you can take your car and dust off the sand and other things that can scar the paint . Then put dri wash on just like a wax by hand . when you come across tar bugs or road paint you just rub it off. Dri wash cuts through these easy as can be. Now once you have done the car for the first time it will last over a year. When you want you car cleaned grab two rags one wet one dry. go over the car with the wet rag then wipe the water spots off with the dry one. No soap no mess no waitng at the car wash. NO THIS WILL NOT SCAR THE PAINT. They have put tons of money and care into doing this and the stuff works. I am not putting this in for sales just as something you should look into if you are looking at keeping your baby looking like new for years. Keep in mind just because a car care maker plasters there name all over every thing dosnt make it the best. just the best known. I would be happy to give more info or sell product to anyone who would like some. I can get you enough for two full size cars starting @ $25.00. the car in the photo was done in my shop white on white. I used less then 18 oz of water inside and out. please look here for more info. http://www.dri-wash.com/http://www.driwash.biz/eti/ScriptAlias/contest.html

Yes clay is what you need if you are looking to do this yourself. The only other thing that you can do in order to get the spots out (cooked in from time) is have the car buffed out by a real detail shop. They will use a cutting compound and high speed buffer. then wax or glaze . Just be sure of the detail shop you pick. You will get what you pay for. The clay works very easy but will not cure all. you wash your car with your soap and water make sure all of the dirt (sand) is gone 100% . Then use the clay lube spray and rub the clay over the paint with mild pressure. You should feel small bumps as you clay. This is the stuff the water spots are made of getting broken up. This will give you a nice finsh with some work but will not take out water spots that are deep in the paint . For they will need some buffing and even that may not get 100% of them out.