carguyinok

So, as I posted yeaterday I thought I had a bad headgasket in my good L28 that I just installed. Well today I started pulling it apart and must say I am FAR from a happy camper with what I found... Please keep in mind this was a very very strong motor that was put togather in about 01. I bought the car soon after the motor was installed. The PO of it only drove the car about 100 miles before parking it. I ran the car for about 2-3 hours worth in my driveway before pulling it an setting it on a motor stand in mid 02 untill last week. Yes it was drained 100% and had all open holes plugged with oil soaked rags. Yesterday was the 1st run since that point. All new fluids and checked over real good. She fired off after turning over about 4 times and ran real strong. It's had alot of white smoke but no odd noise what so ever. So I pulled it out and did a few laps in the parking lot. It was pulling hard and sounding good. Never broke 200 for the temp. Then from nowhere it acted like it ran outa fuel. So after a good hour plus of fighting I gave up for awhile. All this time checking the oil here and there with it being fine. Later that night a few of us where hanging out at the shop and got her to take off with the help of some starting fluid. Only this time it was really smoking good. We pulled the dipstick and found milk for oil. So knowing it must be a headgasket I placed the order for a new one. Then today started pulling the top end apart for the head job. I pulled the valvecover and have found not only alot of milk but that the first lobe of the cam has been eaten :tapemouth:cry: Sorry for the fuzzy photos but my cam is a real POS and needless to say I was alittle shaky at this point :sick: So, now this is how I left the car sitting tonight.

Easier yes, but at what point will the step-up in wheel and tire size change the way a Z will handle? Sure you can go with a smaller sidewall on the tire for a 16" wheel and match the all around tire-wheel size of the stock 14" . But with the smaller sidewall your going to be getting a very stiff tire vs. the stock set-up. If you go with the same sidewall as the 14" on your 16" your changing the total size of the mass your driveline is working to move. Just a thought.........

TTT, Ok now I am getting ready ta head over to the shop and pull the head off her. I have placed the order for the headgasket and it will be here tomorrow AM. I would be very thankful for any advice I could get on flushing this motor out.

OK, so today started out good. I got my car started today. When I first got her started I had alot of white smoke from the tailpipe. I didnt think much about it at first. I thought well the motor had been sitting for over 5 years. I pulled the car outside and let it sit running for about 15 minn or so. It looked like the smoke was letting up alittle. So I did a few laps around the parking lot. Then it acted like it was running outa gas. So after messing around with it for awhile I pulled the fuel pump. I was very shocked too see that the fuel pump rod had milk on it. I pulled the dip stick and the oil looked like new. So I cleaned the fuel pump off and put it back on. Now I still couldnt get it to fire off and run above idle. So I took a break and came back a few hours later. I still couldnt get it to catch and run above idle. I checked the oil again and it was still fine. Then I had some friends drop by and we messed with it more. We ended up getting it to take off with alittle help from some starting fluid. But then the smoke came back in a big way. I pulled the dipstick again only this time the oil was as white as milk. No knocking or pinging just a ton of smoke. I know its the headgasket :stupid: But can the headgasket be replaced at this point without pulling the lower end and oil pump apart for bearings and cleaning? I didnt know if anyone had done some kind of flush with back -back oil changes with any luck? Or is it just a waste of money? I dont understand how the headgasket went bad. The motor was a fresh L28 stroker with alot head work that was run for only a few hours in my 73 240Z before I pulled it in 2002. From there it has been sitting in my shop on a stand with all the holes sealed up tight. It was just fine and only had about 100 driven miles on it when I pulled it. :mad: I have never seen anything like this!!!!!! Needless ta say I am just sick about this :sick:

I know O'Reilly Auto Parts can get you almost anything in their paint chip books mixed in a rattle can. Only, I wouldnt use it under the hood unless you did a clearcoat over it. I have used it for smaller parts and it dose work well. But, because its rattle can it's a single stage paint. With that wont hold up if you spill oil or gas on it.

Thats on my 72. I couldnt say 100% about the 70.

The resistor mounts alone under the coil. It has nothing to do with the coil mount. You will find a screw hole under where you mount the coil. Just look about 3" or so under where you are mounting the coil.

The resistor has a screw hole of it's own about 3" or so under the coil mount.

Wow, dose anyone have a photo of a L28 in a boat??????

I have found that wide 14" tires are very very hard to come across. I needed a set for my 1940 pont. in my sig. After alot of hunting and homework I found Coker Tires http://www.cokertire.com/ But their prices are REAL high. Other then that I didnt have any luck. Then one of the guys at our shop said he was getting his from Cooper Tires. http://www.coopertire.com/Flash/index.aspx . Now I see they dont make them anymore eather. It's looking more and more like 15" wheels are going to be the way you need to go. Unless your rich that is..........

Being that they came from a dealership did they have a part number? I will look on my 72 and 73 bumpers later today and see if they have a hole in the center of the bumpers.

"Lots of smiles per gallon." I like that!!!!!!

OK, I found the headaches lastnight. Of all the dumb little things that could happen!!!!! I had been going nuts testing wires and doing ohm checks over the last week here. I was showing everything as fine untill I reach the end of the wire on BOLTH the starter trigger and the coil power under the hood. Well, turns out the the rubber case at the end of the wires was keeping me from seeing that the wires had broken just inside that boot. I had never come across this before without the wire pulling from the boot. Now here I had two of them do the same thing. Anyway I replaced the ends on bolth wires and everything is fine. Talk about a waste of time and feeling very dumb once it was found. I almost wanted too cry........

Ok guys I found it!!!! Forget the $3000.00 3D scanner. How about $30.00 for one? Now put this with candy fab and we got a fun toy. <embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://revision3.com/player-v1940" allowfullscreen="true" width="555" height="312" />

Rain-X works wonders!!!! I ran Rain-X on my street rod that didnt have wipers for over 2 years. Most of the time my windshiled was much more clear then others that had wipers running. The only trick is putting a new coat of rain-x on after washing the car. The soap at most carwashs will strip the rain-x.

Gnose auction This is an auction for a G-nose conversion in CA. Bidding was @ 185 when I posted this. It looks like a new unpainted part. Item number: 360137766594 What you are bidding on is a Custom Fiberglass G-Nose. It is still in good condition. It has a little fiberglass work to be done on the light buckets, but otherwise in good shape. There are no major cracks

For that matter take the glovebox door off and drop it off with the lock smith. Then they could do it on their own time without a service charge for doing it on site. I just dont know if a lock set would be worth what they would charge. Speeking of, whats a clean header go for now days? I also have one that I was thinking of getting coated.

TY Rick, I didnt think I would be alone on that one. I also have had the fold up bike trailers in the past. I had good luck with mine for many years. But, at this point I needed a heavy trailer for hauling around full size cars and offroad trucks. Carl, I hear you on the canvas and being able too cut into the trailer. But also think you could get around that with a net made of thin cable that could be stiched into the canvas cover. Then use the cables on a small hand winch for getting the canvas cover tight and holding it in place at speed. The folding trailer is a good thought IMO. It's just that the painted tubes and open floor are what turn me away on that one. I also didnt see any points on that for tie downs or chains. I took some very heavy weld in D rings and installed 2 in the front and two in the rear on my trailer. Now I have 4 very strong tie down points that can hold any load in place. It beats the hell outa running straps and chains over the edges and hooking on the trailer frame as with most. They are strong enough that a friend had lost it and hit the ditch with his offroad truck loaded on my trailer. Took a hard enough hit that it tore the frame on the hitch of his tow rig. The truck on the trailer NEVER moved. Just thought I would share whats worked for me.

Just alittle bump seeking help before leaving for the shop today.

Thats very clean from the photos. Congrats on the find!!! On the radio. I have done this on a few car's now that had the stock radio in the dash. Rather then cutting up a clean dash I just leave the stock deck and dash alone. Then buy a radio box for a Suzuki Samurai. You can order one from this site for under $30.00. www.petroworks.com/interior.php . Its a plastic box thats made for a single din head unit. You can take this box and install your aftermarket deck where you please without hacking up your vintage dash. Plus leave that good old school radio in place for show. I left the old 8track player in place on my 73 Corvette and used this box for mounting my new deck just outa view in the drivers foot well under the dash. It works like a charm and looks very clean.

Off the top of your head.... Did the cars and body parts look like TX. car stuff with little - no rust? I know you cant speek for everything. But from what you saw. Did you get any photos?

Thank you, I wasnt sure how the tank was set-up inside. I have it at just over a 1/4 tank now. I didnt want a full tank with the odds being so good that I would need to drop it for a cleaning.

This is the stock style filter on the inner fender. I can watch the air come up from the main fuel line so it's not a crack in the filter. I did have a crack in the line from the filter to the fuel pump. But that would let the fuel drain back into the tank and empty the filter. I noticed this when I replaced that line and was watching too see if the filter would drain again. I will take a closer look at the filter case tomorrow. But dont think thats the case.

Not bad for the trade. Thats a stock steering wheel. I see a rusty set of headers, good tail lights and side markers, Looks like a dash cap you could save too. Dose it run?