carguyinok

Ok, I have been working on my 72 240Z fuel system today. As most of you know I just did a motor swap. With that the fuel line had been left unhooked for a few days. Well I got it all hooked back up today and notice that there are air bubbles along with fuel thats going into the fuel filter. Now its pulling fuel from the tank and keeps the filter full without any fuel leaking back. But it seems that no matter how long I turn the motor over I still get air bubbles from the tank. Is this a normal thing? If not where should I start looking? No I have not run the motor yet nor have I even tried. I am just taking my time and looking to make sure everything is good before I run it. Thank you in advance.

The flywheel bolts and oilpan drain plug are on the way via USPS airmail. Never trust the shipping cost you see online. It was only $8.95 for express air mail.

So, how long is this gona run? Please tell us....... Is it the headlight covers? Atleast tell us if thats the wrong answer... PLEASE.

Sure, only I think the shipping of that sculpture could get alittle high in cost. But, if you think you can pull it off why not...... She would look good sitting on a tree stump in my front yard. LMAO....

Well I just missed the post office here :mad: why they close at 4:30 I will never understand. I have all the parts you need in a ziplock bag waiting to go out tomorrow AM. It looks like it's around $13.95 for Priority Mail International Flat-Rate Envelope. I will mark it down as no value and hope it make a fast trip across the pond for you. Now it's up to you for finding me a cool little nick nack that I coud only find in Denmark for the trade

OK, found the 6 flywheel bolts. So, that means I have everything on your wish list.

If you PM me your address I will see about getting you out a package. I know I have an extra oil drain plug and the flywheel bolts aswell. But I will need to go out and look in my parts locker for the flywheel bolts. But I am sure about where the oil plug is. If you want check and make sure that you have everything else that you need. I have a parts car along with a locked up motor sitting at my shop. So I may have near anything that you could need. I understand how it gose when your dealing with basket case that another person pulled apart. Anyway get with me on where I would be shipping these items. I dont see why I couldnt get them on the way in tomorrows mail as long as I can find the bolts.

Good job and one hell of a deal. But, I think you still need to find out why some tape was able to lift you paint off the car.

Did you put a pack of smokes on the dash? .

Nice job so far. I am sure it's gona be a blast for you once shes done. I am not a huge fan of the color you have gone with. But thats just me. I must admit it's looking sharp and love the color match on the wheels. Keep up the good work and welcome in on one of the best zed sites on the net.

Is the paint your looking to strip from a repaint or is it the stock paint?

You could also buy some of the 2 stage with your base and clear. Then buy a cheap airbrush kit from any hobbie shop. Then tape it off spray it yourself. I think the headache your going to face is matching how thick the paint is laid down. Otherwise your going to see the lines of the patch job.

I will pass on that thank you. I do ALOT of car hauling with my trailer and have spent most of my life doing so. One of the major things I see wrong here is thats a trailer thats only good on sunny days!! The whole thing is made of round tubes with the car being driven on on round tubes. Let me go grab the hose and spray that trailer down with water. Now, lets see if he can make that hot rod go up those tubes without a good run at it. Then if it had enough speed to make it up the ramps I would love to see it stop on the tubes with out sliding off the front of the trailer and into the truck thats towing it. I just see that being VERY VERY slick when wet. Thats not a good thing for a car hauler...... I would say it's another thought that looked real good on paper. Just my .02 about that.

I know this car came from Texas. So I would rule out that its being used for a cold weather fix of any kind. Maybe if you slow down the coolant flow in the intake that would let the coolant pull more of the heat from the intake and carbs? Atleast thats my guess. Then again I have been wrong before......

Sorry Carl, Mine was the Green with the black int. The blue that you saw on the car was from the PO's son who used rattle can blue on the poor car. If I had that combo of blue and white I would go back that way without any thought what so ever. It just sounds like a wonderful combo on a Z. Plus I love blue and white combo. Just look at my Buell in my sig. Anyone have a the white int. sitting around that they would come off of cheap???? .....

Just make sure that you take ALOT of time in cleaning your parts. Most of the panels I have seen painted look wonderful for the first few months. Then they go down hill from there. Yes, some people have had luck with a long lasting finish. But, most of what I have seen have had issues with paint chipping and and just falling off over time. Then your stuck with a very nasty mess that looks far worse then what you started with...... The headaches come from years of silicone vinyl,plastic, and rubber shine being rubbed into the parts. It will soak into the plastic and over time come back up in high heat. Once that happens the paint will let go. As I said I have seen a FEW jobs that have lasted!!!! But only a few...... Please dont string me up or think I am saying it wont work. I am just telling you what I have seen and delt with over the years. Good luck.

I also like the 918 orange. But, at the same time I think I am going with a candy. I did see a orange in the book that was a heavy gold base with an orange top coat that I like as well. Talk about bright orange!!!! Another one that has me thinking was the super bright candy green. Thats another gold base with the green top coat. OMG was it bright. The green looked like it had a back light glowing under it! I like the stock solid colors. But, I think I am going with a candy of one color or another. I have even been thinking a two tone by going with a silver base on part and the gold base on the other. Then cover it all with the same top coat of candy. But, untill then I still have alot of work in front of me before I do the final paint on her.

Owell, cant say I didnt try. I will ask around and see if I get any new thoughts. I hope you get it taken care of soon.

Odds are goof of could damage your plastic aswell. IMO I would try the armor all and scotch pad 1st. It's also pending on how long that paint has been on the plastic. If it's been on there for a few years you may need and go with a solvent of some kind. But I have found if you leave it set with armor all for alittlewhile and use a MED pad on it the paint will come off with just alittle work. I have even had luck with 409 on hard plastic parts. But on soft parts the armor all will get under the paint and let it just wipe off.

Thinner could melt your plastic before you know it. Try some armor all and a scotch bright pad. Armor all has oils in it that will get under that paint and help lift it from the plastic. I have owned detail shops in the past and found that with alittle work this dose the best job without risk of damage.

So yesterday we went paint shopping for a friends motorcycle and picked up some house of color candy red paint. We have a paint booth at our shop and shot the first few coats lastnight. I must say it has me thinking about a candy red Z It just looks so deep We will be putting a few more coats on today after some wetsanding. Then a few coats of clear. So far I am in love with the color and cant wait to see it with the clearcoat on. Sorry about the fuzzy photo's. I couldnt tell that was the case untill I had them loaded up on my computer at home. I will get some better pic's today. Started out black Then the silver basecoat After that was the candy red I think my 240 would look good with a few coats of this. But still not 100% yet.

If you are running the stock SU carbs. Have you checked or cleaned where the coolant runs through the carbs? I pulled apart where the line enters the rear carb on mine and found that it was plugged up bad. Follow the hardline that runs around the back of the block/head and you will see a soft line that hooks that line into the carbs. Remove that soft line and unscrew the nipple where the soft line hooks into the carbs. You will see there are 4 small holes inside that fitting that restrict the flow of coolant. I have found these small holes will get plugged up over time. If thats the case it could cause you headaches much like what your talking about. It's a very easy fix that gets overlooked. Hope it helps.

Thank you for that link. No I hadnt seen that one before. I was thinking about just doing a wide body kit vs. cutting the rear end down. But now it's no longer for the 240Z so that dosnt matter any more. Now the plan is just pulling it apart and powder coating everything. Then new bushings, ujoints, bearings and brakes. After that it's going into my 37 chevy pickup street rod. Unless I come up with a T bucket body that is. I dont mind the inboard brake set-up. For that matter its one of the things I love about it. If you look close you will see that the brake cal. have a piston on bolth sides of the rotor. Sure it looks like a pain in the butt. But I plan on making it so I can drop the whole rearend out rather fast. Just for ease of service. With only 6 mounting points why not.

OK, before everyone get's uptight thinking I am going with this let me say NO I am not putting this in my 72 Z. I had always thought I would like a Jag IRS for my 73 240Z when I did the V-8 swap. So awhile back I picked up a 85 Jag XJ6 on E-bay for near nothing. Well I just got around to pulling it today. OMG I LOVE IT!!!!! It's just way to cool for me ta hide under a car. So I am going to use it in an open wheel 37 chevy pickup that I have been saving parts up for. Anyway, I did want to show it off alittle and let you all see just what its about. I do think it would be a real easy swap into a Z if you wanted.