carguyinok

Thats not a new deal. We would run our sleds on the 1\4 mile drag strip in the summer. There was even a class for sleds started in the early - mid 90s. The early people would take and notch out holes in the skis and mount roller bade wheels inline then grease up the track runners and make a go of it. Its come along way from the looks of that.

From where you tested you should be seeing around 13 - 14 volts. The mounting for the alt is easy. Make sure you disconnect the batt first then go for the wires on the alt. There are two bolts one long bolt that is on the lower side (into block) get that loose first. Then the top bolt is on a slide bar short bolt. Get that loose then push the alt. It should move easy the belt will go loose then pulling the top bolt out then the lower. This can be done from under the car. Easy easy easy with working on VWs this should be cake for you.

Thats the first one I have seen. On the side of strange looking at first. I like the look from the side but from the back of it :sick: Sorry.

Is it a must that its from a 71?

I cant help with the numbers on the motor and head combos. Try looking back in the posts with the search. With putting a price on a used motor there are so many factors it not funny. You said (I have been looking around for a motor to rebuild ) Then I would say 400 is high but not out of range. There are alot of whole cars that can be had for less. I would say go for a whole car and pull what you want then sell it back to a boneyard. You could find yourself ahead alittle money. If you find a zx as a whole then you can pull the fuel injection and computer along with the 5 speed. You may not want all of this but someone will. The parts may not sell for much but look at it as cutting the cost on your motor. Good luck hope you find what you want.

Did you get to keep your old car for the parts? The new one looks real nice. congrats Not many people can find a replacment that fast. Good job and nice find.

carguyinok, I know, I'm not so smart, I am to trusting of a person and I believe what people tell me, and am working on this. This is the last time I get screwed! I didnt want anyone to take it as smart or not. I just cant see dropping a car off with any shop for a little thing and seeing it months later.:stupid: If it was me I would have been camping out in the driveway after a week just to be sure they are working on it. This is the last time I get screwed! LOL LOL We all say that. I know, I'm not so smart, I am to trusting of a person and I believe what people tell me, and am working on this. PLEASE DONT CHANGE THAT. Being a hard person that wont trust anyone is not being a smart person. Take it with a grain of salt and move on with being a nice person. Everyone has a run in with azzholes here and there. The smart people dont let that turn them into the same.

Walter Moore Yes they would eat clutchs very fast. The CV joints and motor mounts would go out all the time. The reason for the one I am looking at being at the boneyard is the whole front end and clutch are just worn out. Zvoiture There is just one system like any other.The 220 hp is just the stock settings. With alittle computer time bigger injectors and a 80mm mass air. You can see 350+ If you go all out and do a cam job with the above it should get it another 25-35 maybe more I am still doing my homework. There are superchargers turbos and there is always the bottle. Aluminum block? Yes. But its still a very heavy motor IMO hitting just at 475lbs. I love the look it has. It may not be big HP but 350 hp with just alittle work is nothing to turn you back on when pulling that and getting 22 MPG. I am looking for affordable fun not killing myself.

The 89-95 SHO is equipped with a 220HP 24 valve DOHC V-6 manufactured for Ford by Yamaha. Because the engine is not boosted, it runs cooler. It supplies a smooth flow of power right up to 7300 rpm. At this point, a rev limiter starts cutting out cylinders to hold the rpms steady at 7300. This technique for preventing over-revving is the result of Ford's Formula 1 racing experience. This rev limiter is not designed to protect the engine, but to protect accessory drive components. The engine itself has been tested at rpm's greater than 8500. The top two lines are cut from SHOtimes. http://www.shotimes.com/SHO0cobra.html LOOK AT THIS COBRA. This is such a good looking motor........ IMO I like the way the rev limiter dosnt cut the power but lets the motor run solid rather then dropping or cutting. I have seen testing numbers from ford with the sho 3.0 running 8500 rpm for hours without hurting it. The clame is that it is a detuned track motor. You can work some good HP #s out of this motor without alot of work and for little money VS. other motors. You can buy the plug in for the computer for under 250 that will let you set the rev limit and fuel system. For 150 more underdrive pulleys. and the list gose on. I have found that most of the sho parts cars are there because the motor has torn up the FWD system. I have only seen one or two that have bad motors. I am working on getting one at this time. I have found a SHO sitting in a bone yard along with a few of the vans for the bellhousing ta convert the motor over RWD. I am not sure what I will use it in. Maybe the Z but for the money I dont think I will pass it up. If I do get it I will post pics.

I have owned my car for only about 7 months, and Fortunate Wheels has had it for over 6 months!!!! 2 months to get it to pass emissions Wow, Whats going on here? If a shop told me they would have my car for over a few day for anything less then a new motor or fusebox I would walk away. :tapemouth

It sounds like you have the tune-up coverd. I lived in the cold stuff up north for years. I am not sure how much the electronic ignition would help with the true COLD starts. One of the things we did on our cars and trucks was going with a lighter oil for winter. The thicker or heavy oil can get almost tar like in the cold. I have changed my cars over to the newer synthetic oil. This oil dose not get thicker or thinner with temp. Then the motor dosnt have to fight with pumping the thick oil at start up. This is all your heater dose (keeps the oil warm\thin). The only down side is the synthetic oil is not cheap so if you have drips or burn oil you may want to fix that first. Hope it helps.

Neat 1956 Healey cross over. http://www.members.cox.net/rdgrauman/Healey.html Just some fun reading I found on another site.

It sounds like you have found a nice Z for starters. I think you will find alot of help here. The only thing I will bring up is brakes. Have you moved the car yet? Dose the car move? If it has been sitting for that many years I would just bring the car in and replace the brakes on all four. The only reason I say bring it in is so they turn the rotors and drums. Then they can tell you what else may need help in the driveline. Just what I would do. Oh yah and smile alot for the find.:classic:

If you do call in a flatbed make sure you tell them the car is a VERY LOW SPORTS CAR. I drove a flatbed tow rig for two years. It is very rare that the towing company tells there driver anything other then (you have a tow here). My truck was a newer three car unit. One on the roof one on the bed and one off the stinger. For the most part I did repos and wrecks. I will tell you they should know the car has a low nose. Then they can bring ramps so the nose wont rub the bed. I had a set with me all the time but most trucks dont have the room. The bed tilt on most roll back trucks is still too much. Just some FYI before you call.

I think it a catch 22. Sure I feel we all would like to see the Z go up in value some what. But I dont think we want them way up there in price. Think about it. We have a car thats fun sporty and affordable now. But if we saw the Z catching classic porsche money I think most of us here would be out of our price range and only seeing them in classic races or shows. The way things are now it looks like we are in a nice up-swing for the values on our cars. Lets keep it going. I just dont want to see it go through the roof. I enjoy the Z for the car it is ALONG with the low cost and for me thats what make it a fun toy. If the prices jump or spike cool but that could cause a sell off by most. Then bang the fun sporty cheap car we love is now out of reach for most that love them. Then what would we do here? Talk dreams?

I'm still trying to work out what carguyinok was doing in his Zs - surely it would have been easier for the pair of you to climb in through the hatch ! Sure

I was out boneyard jumping yesterday and found 2 280ZXs. I dont have much use or the extra money at this time. The cars bolth have non turbo motors and 5 speeds. The bodys are shot but look to be all there for parts. One is 1981 the other is 1983. One has black honeycomb style wheels the other has the older finned style alum. wheels. I could see about getting parts if anyone is looking. Just looking to help out. Let me know there less then 5 miles from me.

ahh sweet payback now wait 30 year for the plastic to age and lean across when the powerlocks are broken .

Ouch... Sorry to see. Dont count it out yet. (I hate to say that. But I know how insurance companies work and they will just total it and I will need to but it back from them.) See what they offer for the loss. Keep in mind they may not even want the car. With some cars you can keep them for just a small cut from the end check. My jeep was a total loss they sent me a check and only kept 300 back for the jeep. It never left my driveway till I sold it.

My parts car is an automatic aswell. I dont know about the number of autos made. I dont think you will find it rare or worth more. That can change with time who knows. Today its still there for parts for me. :classic:

What have you used after it was broken? When I had my driver I used a small rubber superball. :stupid: I cut a small slot in the super ball then pushed a pin in the hole on the rod. It sound ugly but it was the only thing I could do that would last. If it was left as a metal rod you could count on torn jeans at some point. Please keep in mind at this point the Z was not seen as the car it is today. I dont want to think about the cars I had in the mid 80s none the less what I did with them.:sleepy: Hindsights a bitch.:sleepy: and I know her

Ergonomicly the choke is in the correct position for a RHD vehicle, but how does it feel in a LHD? It feels like a choke Now I can say for me I found it a nice change. Most of the cars in the American market went for putting the choke out of sight. We had a ton of the makers putting the choke knobs under the dash. I found not needing ta reach for the choke nice. It was just the way the Z was for us. Not that it matters much. I know that not many of the Zs I have seen still have that choke knob(even after a year old). I did like it but they would catch then people would force them till they snap. Or they would get hooked or crushed when leaning over for the pass side door lock. :mad: For the use its nice when it not a metal stub. But they are just in the wrong place when leaning.

When you do the flush should pull your new thermostat out and put the top back on without the thermostat in. You may want to just use water till you find whats wrong. You will have a clean system after the flush and with clean water any oil mix will be seen easy.

mitsubishi = (no one wanted to team up wih them) Here in the states mitsubishi and Dodge got togather. There are alot of cars that dodge sold that where mitsu. The stelth was a 3000GT the lazer was a eclipse and there are more. Chrysler cut away from mitsu in the mid - late 90s.

True on the RX7. I have had a few and the parking brake is on the left there as well. Funny I had not thought of it till you said that. I loved my RX7s power all over and with the turbos look out. But they just dont have the body lines for me. For the corvette deal well ...... :tapemouth