carguyinok

125..... Ya, thats alittle over the top IMO. I was thinking along the lines of a 50 or 75 shot. But, wasnt sure if anyone here had ever put one on the juice. If you do post numbers like 100+ I would hope you could back them up with photos of your own set-up at those numbers. The odds are that it will only get hit a few times a year if that. I am looking more for the show side of it anyway. Maybe a set-up like the vette that was done at our shop.

Theme music!!!!!! Every good project needs a sound track going in the background. How about a camera? I think seeing your before and after would be cool. Maybe it would help with some that are thinking about doing the same thing aswell.

Ahhh, thank you!!!!!

I thought it was 20. Thank you What about doing an oil change? Is there a way that you drain them for doing one?

I was just toying with the thought of putting a bottle on my L28. Nothing dumb and not for everyday use. But I have most of the stuff and thought I may bolt it in for alittle kick in the azz here n there. So how big of a shot can they take without damage? Like I said its just for fun and the fact that I have it.

So I had a few of the guys looking over parts of the 240 tonight. One of them asked about the allen bolts that are in the stock exhaust manifold. One hole with a plug in each port. Whats the deal with them? The only thing we could think is they are ports for a temp unit used at the factory for tuning. Just one of those things that I would like too answer for them. :stupid:

OK, so I will be installing my L28 AGAIN at some point this week. It's been a few moons since I have messed with a set of these carbs. I did just have a motor in the car and the carbs are acting fine asfar as I could tell. But, one thing I would like too get done is the oil in the carbs. How do you go about checking the the oil level? Also if I recall correct I am thinking it's 20w oil. Am I wrong? One other thing on this. How do you go about doing a oil change on the SUs ? Funny, but you should have seen the looks on the faces of the guys at our shop when I said I think I need too check the carb oil LMAO Thank you.

Well good, atleast I know some kind of good came from this mess then. But I feel that you should know this was a new part that failed. But I was not the one that installed it!!! The PO of my 73 built the motor back in 01 and I have had it in storage since then. My guess is he installed the part wrong and it just now gave up. Keep in mind even tho its years later the motor only had a few hours of run time on it. But if yours is worn I vote replace it and sleep well knowing it's good.

OK, I have a set of the hinge style aluminum louvers on my 72. I have a love hate thing going with mine now. I can live with or without them. But they do give the car a whole new look from the back and side with them on. Two draw backs with them. #1 your drilling into your hatch and giving water a whole new way inside your hatch for rust later in life. But then again Z cars dont have any rust prob. so.... #2 they make a CLANG!!! sound that you can hear from city blocks away when you close your hatch. But they look true vintage 70s cool...... If I do keep mine I think I will be looking for a set of rear 1/4 window louvers aswell. When you put them all togather it's a neat look IMO.

I dont think it was anything more the the tensioner piston stuck outside the cup and stuck @ about a 45. I am talking MAJOR pressure on the timing chain, cam, and front motor cover. Thank goodness everything else looks fine.

I say that it looks very nice from the photos. For myself I would ask for better shots of the body. It looks clean in the distance shots they took. But for me it just dosnt feel correct from the way the photos are. They get nice and close for the front and rear shots. Then ran away from it for any side shots taken. Then they take the time for removing the seats. Yet could only pull the rear carpet back alittle and cut off anything showing the hatch seals and corners. Maybe I am wrong!!! But it just seems alittle funny too me. But it dose look nice from about 15-20 feet away.

I will get those for you tomorrow unless someone here beats me 2 it.

I will get you a PM soon. I had a hacker messing with my paypal last week. So I was waiting unill that was taken care of before having anything sent into that account. Odd but you should have seen them by now. I will drop by the PO today and see if they can tell me anything.

Yes, I could just swap the cam over and try it that way. But for now I would rather keep that head off. Then save up alittle money untill I can get the new cam for that head then get it set-up correct. Plus I am not sure what other damage could have been done with that much pressure on the front of that head. So I am just gona pull everything from the head and get it checked for any hidden damage as in cracking or warping that could have happened. Then I can just swap back with my good head and cam at a later date. Then I can sleep easy knowing 100% that its a head that I can trust. I am betting that I can get the other block free. Then get it apart and work it over from there. But, for now I am just gona put it on a stand and toss a cover over it. Yes with atf on the pistons. But it's gona take alot of work before that lower end is a runner. The best I can say for it its that its an extra block at this point. P.S. Did you get the flywheel bolts yet?

So yesterday I pulled apart the L28 that I thought had a bad head or head gasket. I was very shocked when I found what had been the cause of my milk in the oilpan. Of all the things that could happen....... It was the timing chain tensioner!!!!! I pulled chain cover and found that the tensioner had some how come out of the hole it should be in. It was outside the hole on the top and kicked over like a wedge with the lower part still in the hole. With that it took out the front lobe of the cam, stretched the chain, pulled the cam gear loose, ate up most of the cam gear, and opened up a coolant leak near the waterpump All of that without one odd noise from the motor..... I still cant understand why or how this could happen :tapemouth Like I have said it was a very strong running fresh motor that was running like a top when I pulled it a few years ago. Anyway thats what I have found. I also took the time and pulled apart the locked up motor that came in my 72. I found that the lower end was locked up solid with two pistons rusted in place. But the head on that motor is fine. Now I have my SBC motor and trans mocked into my 240. But after my findings I am going to take the head from the locked motor and swap it onto the good lower end and see what happens. Yes, today I am cleaning up the lower end that had the milk and checking all the bearing. The chain gear on the crank dose look fine and some how didnt get the damage the cam gear did. I am not sure how this will work out. I say this because it was a fresh motor that had alot of work on bolth the block and head. The block had the crank, rods, and pistons changed for a higher compression. But I didnt build it and dont have a clue for what was used or what the real numbers for stroke or compression. I know it was a custom cam grind with larger valves and port work. So going back with a stock head and cam has me wondering whats going to happen. But I am gona give it a try and find out. I will keep you all updated on how things work out. With alittle luck and everything going togather headache free I should have it togather tonight and back in the car by tomorrow. That if all my gaskets and chain came in today.......

I have bolth of those tabs & the covers that go along with them. Let me know if a photo or two would help you. If so I would be more then happy too get them posted. Also, if you tell me that you could send it back asap I would drop the marker you need in the mail. Maybe you could use it for making one for your car. Or just use mine for getting your motor lined out pull it off and send it back. I just thought I would offer if it will help you.

Well, I did a mock-up tonight with an extra 350 block that I have and bolted the trans up on that. I was VERY shocked that just setting the stock motor mounts for the chevy over the Z mounts the motor was near in place. The JTR kit was showing set back motor mounts. I will disagree with this one off the bat. I only see going back making far more headaches then it's worth. If I move it forward 2" I can keep my hood latch the way it is. Plus I gain enough room to use the stock Z transmission mounting holes. It would mean going all electric for the cooling fan. But that was my plan from the start being I have three at this point. Plus buy going forward I can keep everything the same under the hood. This way once the L28 is done it should be just as easy bolting it back in its home. Just as if the V8 swap had never happened. No, it's not less buying a vette and starting from there. I am a corvette nut case and have had 6 at this point. My vettes have been 1961, 1972, 1974, 1984, 1988.5, and a 1992. One thing I can tell you is they are all tanks. Sure alot of fun with HP for playing. But everyone of them was just a heavy tank that had high insurance rates ta boot. I am so looking forward to this light little Z car with the raw HP on tap.

Thank you on the advice. I have been doing my homework for a few years now. We have a custom shop that I am working out of. With that we have done ALOT of this type of work. I understand just what your saying and thank you for bringing it up. The vette motor I have is new and nothing more then a stock 73 vette motor with a warm cam. So it should only be around 350HP if it's lucky. With that I dont think it's gona rip this Z apart. I know there are a few L28's putting out #'s like that so... I was planing on a brace or two off the bat but nothing I cant take off without hurting anything. Plus we are twisting up a roll bar with some brace work. I had been thinking about the upgrade on the brakes and will do that after awhile. But with my guys at the shop working with me I know it's gona get done ASAP. Again TY on the warning and words of advice. It's not like I am going with a 700hp monster motor like the drag car we have.

Now here are a few shots so you can understand just how you could get a dig or two running where we do.

I know this is a classic Z site.... But also thought you all would enjoy seeing what we did with a 2000 frontier crew cab. First alittle background on this toy. One of the guys at our shop bought this truck new in 2000. Well placed the order in 99. It started out life as a 2wd drive show truck for our audio builds and shows. With that he never even took the truck off the factory MSO bill. Yes never even got a title for it. This was because it lived it's life on a trailer going from show - show for the first 3 years. Then the off road bug hit HARD!!!! One year later we had a custom off road toy that would go near anywhere. it was all made at our shop. The only order in part was the stock Nissan transfer case and transmission. Other then that we made it all from scratch. Custom 4 link with soild axel up front. Then a set of flex shakles on custom leaf springs in the rear. We also took over 14" off the bed and welded it back togather. Then we bent up the custom front stinger winch bumper. She was sitting on 39" super swampers and could cook them all if it was asked too. Just thought some of you would enjoy seeing this one being we kept it Nissan. FYI. It was being done for a fun show truck. But then it got a good ding on a rock climb. From there it was GAME ON for what it could do.

Thats what I am saying tho. I have it all but the mounting kit and speedo cable. Heck as far as that gose I dont even need the speedo cable anymore because I have a small GPS unit.... For the drive shaft it's just a u-joint kit with the trans I have. So here is my total parts list for what I dont have. Set Back Plate, Passenger Side, aluminum, 1/2" thick, $25 Set Back Plate, Driver Side, aluminum, 1/2" thick, $30 Transmission Crossmember, $65 Drive Shaft Adapter Flange. Specify 2.25 inch pilot, or 2.0" pilot $60 So, under $200 in parts and I have it done and ready ta go anywhere I please. I know I could half azz this L28 for about the same price. But thats just what it would be a HALF AZZ rebuild With as much metal that came off that cam it's gona take a total rebuild for me too feel safe on any road trip with that motor. I know I dont need anyones blessing for this. More then anything I wanted it clear that my plans are for going back with the L28. But, once I get done with this L28 let just say it's gona be on the warm side "Nothing vrong in bolt on/off upgrades after my opinion as long as it is bolt on/off when converting it back to original. What is the actual problem with you L28, except of the cam, is the block / head cracked, have you drained the oil? if so poor it up in a clear jug, that will give you an idea of how much water there is in the oil when it seperate. When you put that motor in storage, did it then have anti freze to protect against corrosion, or were it w/o water and dry. I'm not saying don't go V8, but it doesn't have to be that expensive to get that L28 up running. Chris " Ya, the motor didnt have any water in it. Plus I had cut up a sponge and soaked it with oil for filling the open ports on the motor. I did pull some milk from the pan and it was a neat cream white with metal flake. It looked alot like the paint for my buddy's Harley so... With that much metal in the oil metals gotta be in the oil pump, bearings and, rings. So I cant just do a flush and cam with my fingers crossed. IMO that would be the real waste of money. But Thank You on the advice and words guys. I just know that the L28 I want is gona be alittle more then even $500. at this point. So, anyone looking ta get outa any extra HP internals for a L28 PLEASE drop me a line. My guess is about 1-2 years on the L28 build. :disappoin So, I beg that yall dont bash me real hard & see how it came about. Also understand it's not gona be a butcher job :stupid: Thats what the 73 is for

IMO, that looks like a 73 240Z with fender flairs , front air dam, fender mount mirrors, and painted front bumper. I could be wrong about that. But I am just going off the bumper. The later you get in years of that body style the bigger the bumpers get. I am sure one of the old pros here will step in and tell you just what it is soon enough. But I will say thats a sharp looking Z.

As many of you know I just did a motor swap in my 72 240Z. Odds are you also know that things went VERY VERY wrong inside the motor I installed :tapemouth Well, at this point in the game I want my 240Z driver for the summer yesterday!!!!!! Now I have been buying and putting aside parts for the 73 project for well over 5 years now. Keep in mind thats a V8 conversion parts list. Now those parts are going in the 72 I just picked up and have been posting photos of. Yes, it's getting my 73 corvette 350 with the short turbo 350 transmission. Now please understand it's only because I have EVERYTHING but the mount kit and speedo cable sitting in the same work bay as the car. Also, I hope you all can cut me alittle slack because I am planning on going back with the Nissan driveline after I take my time on building up my own L28. With that in mind I am going to do my best in doing as little damage as I can with the conversion. I think the only real damage I will be doing is cutting lower part of the hood latch from the fire wall. Other then that I plan on keeping everything else just as it sits. This way I can go back once I am done with my L28. Then it can go back home with the 4 speed. But for now I am doing the V-8 swap. One of the major reasons for this is that it's all new!!!! I am talking the whole vette motor is still in the boxs with the raw block sitting and waiting for me too put it togather. New everything bearings rings pistons rods crank oil pump you name it and its new in a box waiting. I even have a shifter that can mount in the stock 4 speed hole without hurting anything. So, yes I am doing whats hated here and I do understand why! But hope you can also understand it's not for keeps on this one and plans are on going back after awhile. But, for now I wana drive my 240Z With money being tight at this time that means I must use what I have for that ta happen. I hope you all can understand how that works. But please know it will return all nissan one day. Untill then I still want my Z wheel time.

Thank you all, I wish I knew why it went. I just dont understand how a headgasket or head can crap out sitting dry. I got the motor running and let her idle for about 10-15 minn. Then because I had a bad slave on the clutch I shut down the motor and restarted it in 1st gear. That let me get about 5 minn worth of laps in our empty parking lot. I must say it was a very strong motor. I would hit the gas good and the back tires would just light-up and the car woud kick out in a slide. No it never even broke 200 for temp. Anyway, I dont think the cam can be saved. You can set a dime in the damage and still have a lip. My feelings on this is that the coolant washed the oil off the front lobe and that caused the damage. I could be very wrong about that. But it's the only thing I can come up with. As far as why it got coolant in the oil I have not a clue. I will post the findings once I pull apart the motor. The real bitch for me here is it was a fresh motor built for the 73 I picked up back around 01-02. The guy didnt even want too part with the motor because of the money and time he had in it. I should have wrote down what was done when he told me. But I didnt do that and know better next time. I do know that he had alittle over $2800 just in the motor build. I can say from the 1 gear pulls I was getting it's was money well spent. Oh yah and that was on stock SU's for me. He had it on trip. webbers that I didnt get with the car. But, its dead now.........

The reason I said clear over single stage was because alot of the clears that are out can take the chem. spills better. With the custom rattle can colors if you spill gas or oil on them they can bleach the colors out of the paint. If I was looking for color on a head I would spend the money and get it powdercoated. Then you know it will be good for years vs. days or months. If you cant find a good price on powder coating let me know. We do alot of powder coating at our shop. Shipping the head would cost more then the coating. But in the end IMO it's the only way you should go for a finish that would last for years.Please keep in mind that the head must be the the raw head. No valves or anything in it. We can get powder coating in near any color you can think of. Heck we have even done glow in the dark and black light colors. But I dont see why you couldnt find a shop that offers a fair price within a short drive from where your at. This is a motor I put togather for my eclipse. I powder coated the head, block, and did a custom 2 tone candy coat on the valve cover. I did this over 4 years ago and it still looks the same to this day.