carguyinok

Park bench I love it. I dont care much for the 350 anyway. I am looking to see what the HP numbers are in the aftermarket world of the 350Z. I do wish that somone would make up a 350Z just for HP. But I think we all know they cant (wont) make a sleeper 350Z with the way the aftermarket world works now days. This is why I am stuck looking at the cars with the body kits and thinking maybe theres more there then a bunch of stick on plastic wings and body kits. Just a Z guy wondering what the top hp #s are with this motor in the aftermarket world.

I know a few people that work at autozone and we took some time and looked up there parts listings for the early Z. I was shocked at how many parts they had listed. I would say just go in with a list of what you want and see. You will want to write down there price and part #s. Then look and see if there the best price. On ther other hand if you find the parts from a retail store it will make things easy for returns if the parts shipped are wrong. So spending alittle more on the parts retail may make life easy in the long run.

Thank God. Round here the whole parts cars are 150- on up. I am looking for some land so I can pick some up for parts later on.

Guess my West Coast (salt free) bias is showing badly by now. Sorry. JMO Its ok. I have my shell TG. But going out looking for parts I have found so many cars just falling apart that would make a shell job nothing more then work. The bone yards around here have many 280z - zx and they dont want much for any of them as whole parts cars. But on the other side around here you just dont see rust free shells so.. I never should have moved from the west coast :tapemouth

That maybe true unless it grew old in vegas. If that was the case it would be a nice shell with little rust.

I was watching a show and they did a part on a aftermarket show in vegas. They showed the g-reddy twin turbo 350Z. I have been looking for more on this. g-reddy dosnt have it on there website yet and they just did a walk by on tv saying what it was. I would like ta know more about this one aswell.

I know there are alot of members here from Australia. I saw on the news that parts of Australia are being hit with huge wildfires. I havent seen what parts are getting it. But just wanted too say please stay safe and hope this is not hitting on any of our members homes.

I have seen this in more then one. I have found that the return spring will strech over time. The linkage will also start getting hung-up with a worn\streched spring. Oil all the joints on the linkage replace the spring and see if that dose it. It cant hurt and wont cost much of anything. hope it helps.

There is a 240Z on e-bay in las vegas ( low rust) It has less then 24 hours left and still under $300. Whats wrong here? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1876878990&category=6187

I pull in to get some gas and there sits a rust free 82 280ZX. Not a spot on it. I go in and just asked the girl at the counter if its hers. She said " Yes I just bought it " I am thinking cool another Z person in town. Then she gose on " Yah I just picked it up from a guy for 500 bucks and it has heat so..." Now I am not a fan of the ZX but damn its clean gold on gold with t tops. And here she get it cuz it has heat thinking it nothing. with a person selling it in my town for nothing :sleepy: O Well I gave her my card and said call if you would like to sell it.

That sounds like the hole where the seat belt light is. Small hole about 2x2 in the center. It should have a red lens that lights up if seatbelt is not hooked up with the car on.

Thats good. I know some guys in MN. that made a two headed VW bug. They took two 1970 bugs cut them in half behinde the doors and fabed the two front clips togather. Then cut the floor pans on bolth and put front wheeldrive drivelines in both. You coud open eather side get in start one and drive off. You just had to make sure that the one not in use was in N with the steering locked. It was a real pro job . I wish I had some photos.

Something tells me this guys car must look as if it came off a MAD MAX movie set.

Well, if you are into V-8 Zs this will do the trick. 720 HP GM crate motor. http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Sneak/Previews.html

This is why you dont see blonds working at the veterinarians office. poor kitty.bmp

The way I have done this in the past. Get out your grinder or file. Put a flat edge on the locking lug. Then crank down the other lugs and take a hammer and a punch and tap the locking lug loose. Or put two flat spots on the locking lug and put a large visegrip one the locking lug and tap it loose. If you crank down the non locking lugs first the locking one will take less work too free it. P.S. If you have a grinder work on the lug asap after grinding. The heat from that will help free it up. hope it helps

I bet you that will leave a nasty cut on your leg if you walk to close to the rear of your car. I also smell a lawsuit if someone walking in a parkinglot hits that with there leg.

Open your phone book and look. If that fails I would look for someone who packs food for shipping. They use dry ice for shipping frozen foods.

I was looking around and found this http://www.invention.com/mattfield.htm I had used a heated razor knife along time ago and dont know where to find one but this is close. It would make fast work of tarpaper.

Yes, as 2manyzs said "The bottom end is strong enough to take a fairly good sized shot, that is, if the fuel and ignition system is set up for it. " It can take it. But you will hurt it real fast without setting up the motor for nos. You could make a few runs hitting the nos and see good #s. But you will be pulling the motor out real soon for new piston rings (If your lucky). I have used nos on a few cars now and will tell you now. If your motor is not upgraded for nos dont do it. Most of the stock motors( that I have seen ) with nos will blow out the rings or burn holes in one or more pistons. A motor set up for nos will have the whole motor redone for the bottle. The biggest thing is your compression. If you want to run the bottle on you stock motor drop the compression as much as you can and you could make your motor last alittle longer. But you will find yourself with a bad motor sooner or later. I know this is not what you where looking to hear. Sorry just what I have found and looking to save you some money in the long run.

Yes, on mine one key operates the 3 doors and the Ignition. The only other key for mine is for the locking gas cap (from the early 70s)

From the sound of things I would look at air regulator. It sounds more like a lack of air. This is just a shot in the dark. Adjustment of the air\fuel mix can be made at the air regulator. You will find this screw under a small rubber plug on the motor side if the sensor. clockwise is rich counterclockwise is weak. Hope it helps.

Well, here is my key.:sleepy: It has been worn out as you can see. The top hole is now about twice the size.

I have just started looking for the stock style key. The round top key with the Z cut in it. Mine shows its age so......anyone know who may have some blanks? I saw that msa has them with the locks but my locks are fine. :sleepy:

Boy I tell ya what a time for this post. Only two days late. Yes get the strongest bolt you can find. I was just moving my motor from my shop back home. We left the top of the stand on the motor and took off the lower part (legs) and after we get the motor home we pulled it out the back of the truck till we could get the legs under it while on the tailgate. so far all is good. We lift the stand and motor up and pull it out from the truck bed and set it down on the driveway. No big deal. I grab the stand and start rolling it. the first crack I hit put enough bounce in it that the top two bolts broke. Thank god there where two others with me that saw it start going down and where strong enough to slow the fall enough that nothing was broken or cracked. I will just call it the luck of the unlucky that nothing broke other then the bolts.