carguyinok

Well, I have droped off the site for A few months now but for good reason. I had A choice in front of me 2 months ago. Take the money in the bank and do the Z. or open my own shop & ditch the timecard. I now have my shop open. 4-EVER NEW AUTOMOTIVE DETAILING. Is open and booked for details into JAN 03 . I also am going into custom automotive neon. & will soon be on the holly website as A N.O.S. bottle refill shop.( NOS about 2 months off this point) So the Z had ta get set aside for a few. But now it has made it back into light. With the shop in order to do it. :classic: The neon end is going to be so cool. I have found A guy here that has a neon shop but just wants to bend & fill the tubes. So what ever I would want he will bend up in any color. and no the cost is not bad. If you want neon let me know . I have him working on A neon blue Z for the shop I will take a photo when its done.

The #1 thing with A sitting Z. LEAVE THE E-BRAKE OFF....:stupid:

I have used WD40 in the past ta find vac. leaks. Others use starting fluid but the chance of fire I dont like. Take and spray the WD40 around where you think the leak could be (with the car running). If it is A vac\intake leak. With the WD40 you will see blue\white smoke from the tail pipe. With starting fluid you will see A RPM jump. Did you put A new gasket in ? If not I would just order one now. The other thing is with the brake parts cleaner you should as Graeme Suckling oil the butterfly. Inside & out while moving it open & closed. The brake parts cleaner will eat any grease and oil that may have been there. Have fun & good luck.

("I was on ebay and noticed there are really spiffy sets of Krypton bulb conversion kits for the 240z.") The 7" Krypton kit is A good start. But not just A plug n go style kit. You should pick up A street rod mag and look in there for A good kit. This will cost more but worth it. The total kits will have the wire upgrades you will need for the voltage/amps the H4's pull. There is no real just for Z car headlight kit's out there. The 7" round headlight was used in almost every car till the 80's. There where high beam and low beam with 4 bulbs up front but the bulb it's self is the same. Hell when I was young n dumb I swaped out A headlamp bulb from my 61 corvette into my motorcycle just so I could go for A night time bike ride with my buddys :stupid: The H4 will be A real nice upgrade for your Z. Much better then the old school bulb. If you go with the streetrod mag you will also get A bulb that looks like the old style glass lamp. You will get what you pay for.

A good thing ta do with putting A car up on stands. Put your car down on the stands. Then BEFORE you go under take and give the car some good jolts. Pushing the car back n forth by the roof at the window opening. This way you know the car is set on the stands and that the stands are locked in place. If you think doing this could knock the car off the stands you shouldnt be under it anyway.If it dose come off the stands you did it wrong and your car will be about one foot right or left but you will still be around. :classic: Another thing I do is put my jack under A strong point (front crossmember or in the rear the rearend) and put the jack up so it's touching but not lifting. This way if something gives the car cant just fall all the way down.

Not cheap. http://www.car-dolly.com/ but anything good isnt.

That photo made A real nice wallpaper

I like that with the candyapple paint & no side marker lamps. I think it helps the flow of the body. I filled mine awhile back. Now very happy I did after seeing one done & painted. That for 9k. Take it!!!

Wow, hmmmm Thats A neat trick that the not so good used car dealers used. Looks good but thats about it. Just make sure you dont hit any potholes or speed bumps going faster then 2 or 3 mph. If you sell this car make sure you tell what you did. Someone could get hurt or :dead: When it snaps @ the firewall. And it will maybe not today or tomorrow but it will.:sleepy: Sorry. But hey ENJOY IT WHILE YOU CAN :classic:

If you are going to make your own. You should look @ getting @ least 4 casters with wheel locks. Most of the pre made dollies dont have this (the cheap ones). Without A wheel lock you could find yourself rolling your Z into thing you dont want ta hit. Dollies are wonderful to say the least. But if you are going to leave the car on them and work on it @ the same time you wont want it free ta roll around. One wheel with A lock per dollie will do the job fine. Just make sure you put it on the outside:stupid: As far as casters. Go large and metal. Smaller are cheaper but they will be hard ta roll & if home made may even snap off when hitting A crack or small rock. Where with A larger wheel it will be easy ta roll and go over these things that could jam A small wheel. O-yah watch your toe's if you like um on your feet

If you got them from MSA. I would call them and bitch about them. Work out A return & order the same set with the jet coating on. This is not just for looks (even if they do look cool) the jet coat is also A rustproofing and if there turning white @ this point the smal rust isnt far away. The jet coat is also done inside the header so that's much like getting them polished inside for easy flow & rust proofing inside & out. Just what I would do. :tapemouth

Here is the one 2many was talking about and the link to that post. http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2889&highlight=strut+bar

V8240Z posted this site up in another post http://12.224.138.56:8884/Files/Datsun/Strut-Bars/ Some cool pics of them. I myself have never put them on A 240Z. I did put front & rear ones on my RX7 and could feel the change. Yes it was for the better.

My bad I didnt look @ where it was I may go for A look. Thats not far for me.:stupid:

After looking around (for years) I would jump @ that if I was looking and able ta go and look it over in person. The way that car sits is just how you should look over one for rust (they cant hide it) As the lack of front wheels, No big deal the rack & crossmember is A pain ta get off but putting it back is cake, At least putting it back just to move the shell. All n All I would go and look if I was near there. You could prob. get it for less then what you see on there. I cant see someone putting that much out for A shell without looking it over in person. Thats prob. where he would like it ta start. P.S. There looks ta be atleast 700 + just in seats n belts.

Welcome to the early Z life. you should take some time and read the post's about rust BEFORE you go and look this car over. You may save yourself some big headaches. It sounds like you have A good doner car for the driveline so thats no big deal. The other thing is you are not looking @ A 240Z if it is A 1974. That would be A 260Z. As posted before PLEASE dont put X after Z with the early cars. Good Luck.

Yes VR is no longer taking orders but they do have there jigs & molds up for bid. They say there dropping it because of needing too focus on there real company in with airospace. This sounds good but I think Ferrari may have had alittle hand in this aswell. They have shut down every other repro company that has done A Ferrari so...... Plus there cant be A whole ton of money in aftermarket bodies for Z cars anymore.:sleepy:

Sorry, Nissan lost hope of getting my money with putting the same V6 from the maxima/Altima & infiniti G35 under the hood.:sleepy: Please with the DOHC twin turbo inline 6 on the bench. WHY GOD? Why?:stupid: Then ta try & tell us that this is A car with roots from our baby's. Funny other then 2 seats 1/4 glass & A letter I dont see it. Sorry.

Not sure what this person thinks they are getting to sell. But the days of the VIN# being the # of the car off the line was dead about 1980 on most cars. I would be very suspect of this. Why would Nissan give up the #1 car? Even if they did dont you think someone in Nissan would be picking this up? Or @ the least some Nissan dealer. At the very least 10k+ so it is worth more than twice the original sticker price. Yes on the 240. But +60k for A 350Z NO sorry .

Yes A amp would do fine. One other thing you should look into getting before you put any new things in (amp head unit EQ ) is A good noise filter. A noise filter hooks up in your power line for these things. With the older points/coil type cars you will prob. hear the elec. sound of your motor through the speakers. Much like A tach but with sound. Dont worry there only like $5-$20 and you will get what you pay for.

this is it. $199

http://www.custom-autosound.com/ They have one of the best hidden set-up's on the market.

("Any thoughts on where to get a new exhaust system at a reasonable price?") I would say look in the paper and find A car show. Go there and talk with some of the people with the nicer rides. They will point you to A good shop. Dont let some hack put A clamp togather set-up under there. Go stainless welded. You will be much better off in the long term with this. Thats my .02 on that.