carguyinok

Thats how mine was. Lower was all studs but the one on the end and the top was all bolts. Now after thinking about it yes there are smaller studs. Three of them that go in the center for the exhaust. One dead center top and the two lower ones just under the center one. I think everything was 13mm but those three and they where 11mm I think.

I just had my 72 motor apart. On the exhaust the hole nearest the firewall was a bolt. From there forward was studs. Aleast thats the way mine was. But yes all the studs should be the same size. I would look and see if you broke one off inside the head.

"He is selling a used car. If his lips are moving, he is lying..." Thats alittle harsh dont you think? Plus from a person who has an item listed for sale in their sig........ :tapemouth I just dont think thats true. Plus have a feeling most of us here have sold a used car once or twice... Not wanting a fight here. I am just saying I feel thats alittle harsh :paranoid:

Well after alittle body work. As in sanding out the filler from the trim holes and redoing them. I rolled it into our paint booth lastnight and gave her a few coats of flat black. Not sure what color I will go with in the end. But for now this will do. Talk about a change.

Yesterday I spent some time pulling trim and doing alittle body work. Then rolled it into the paint booth lastnight and shot her with a coat of flat black. Came back today and put the parts back on. Untill I can take more time on the body and make up my mind on color this will do. Sorry about the PB photos. But I did load them on the site. Only they need aproved before I can use them. I have also spent some time putting the int. togather. No I have not made up my mind yet. But I may mount these seats and belts in her.

So, dose this mean that you have that 4 barrel intake for sale or trade?

cool, thank you guys!!!!!

Thank you, yes it makes sense. I hope it's not the ign. switch. Not that it's a big deal to change. I just like having one key for all the locks and ign. I know it's hitting on the starter side because I can hear it clicking when I turn it for start. Thank you on the wire colors. Now I can start looking and trace the wires back.

Please help????? I know that some of you have gota know the answer on this one. Or for that matter whats the color code for the wires from the key switch from under the dash? Then I can get some testing done.

How long has the car been sitting without being run? Days, months, or years? I have found that you can tell alot just from smelling the smoke. If it's on the sweet side it's coolant. Also, have you had too add coolant or oil since the smoke started?

Thanks chris, I am fond of that gold. Please do David. I know of a few real nice roads around here where we run our bikes. I cant wait for hitting them in the Z. Only thing is you may make me go scarab on this one. I have already had 2 offers of V-8's and the short turbo 350 trans. sitting under 10 foot from the car now. But I cant let this Z motor just waste away plus it's in. The V8 project is the 73 so...... You just let me know when you would like ta come on over. I will buy you a beer or two and show you around our shop.

The starter is no big deal. I have a remote trigger for that. IMO everyone should have one. I just didnt know if I would hurt anything going hot on the resistor and if I should remove the wire in that spot or not. Thank you.

Just a thought here. I dont know about the end caps. But for the filler along the top side you could make your own. Ask around and find a place that can get you a sheet of bulk black plastic. We order ours from a hardware store here in 4X8 sheets. Take some cardboard and cut that so it fits the way you would like. Trace that on the plastic and cut it out. Keep in mind you can use a heat gun and make bends and roll edge work. I dont have any photos but I have done it & it looks great. You can also use plastic weld and get mounting tabs along the back side if needed.

OK, now as many of you know I just did a motor swap in my 72 240Z. After getting the motor in and everything hooked up I have a small headache :stupid: I am not getting any power on the coil with the key on. Plus nothing on the starter trigger wire with the key in the start pos. I can hear the sol. box click in the pass side footwell but thats as far as it gose. Yes, everything in the fuse box is fine with no wire damage that I can find. Yes everything that should power up with the key on dose. It's just coil power and starter trigger power thats missing. Where should I start ? Also, I would love ta hear this motor run today!!! Where can I jump power to for a temp. deal so I can atleast get it running? I didnt know if I could run a power wire to the resistor before the coil and get it live that way? I plan on fixing whats wrong. But for now I just wana hear it run and make sure everything in ok under the hood before moving into the elec. headaches. Thank you in advance.

Yes, more photobucket pics. Sorry, but loading pics here is a pain and I am short on time. Here is the new motor in it's new home

As many know I am working on a 72 240Z that I just picked up days ago. After getting the motor swap done today I know I need all new hoses. This car has almost all the stock lines on it and they are all very weak and dry. So, dose anyone make a complete hose kit for the 240Z ? I would feel much better knowing everything for the cooling lines was new. Plus the ease of getting it all one shot. Thank you in advance.

The new motor is in !!!!! Everything is in place tight and hooked up. Now I am dealing with the plugged up fuel tank :stupid: along with alittle elec. headache. I am not getting any power to my starter with the key. I can hear it click on the pass side inside the car. But thats as far as i have gotten with it. I can jump the starter and it cranks over fine. But nothing with the key. So once I can get a friend over for testing I am done for the night. But happy ta say the new motor is installed and ready. Photo's and updates tomorrow.