Aussie260z

Was wondering if anyone can help me get my car started, Its an R30 skyline with EFI'd L24 engine it in, i seem to be getting pretty good spark - but not sure about the fuel, I cannot hear the fuel pump when car is on accessaries or start, i also removed the line from the fuel filter (in the engine bay) there was fuel in the filter, but i was thinking fuel should wizz out when i turned the key to acc or start? this did not happen.............. Anyone got any suggestions?

http://www.newgel.com.au/datsun.htm I have the rear spoiler shown in the above link's pictures, It does not have any designated bolt holes, What i was thinking of doing was attaching it with 2 bolts at either end and using some water based polyurethane all around it, That should hold it right?

No, you dont need a turbo ECU, What you can do is use something called a "HOBBS" Switch, this switch runs of vacum pressure from your intake manifold, You plumb this in-line from the Temp sender to the ECU and also plumb into your intake, when the engine gets on boost this switch tricks the ECU into thinking the engine is cold, than the ECU richens up the fuel mixture, However, im not really sure how much extra fuel this little device will supply, but for lower boost applications this would work fine, This is what they did with "Dealer" installed turbo kits on 280zx's, this is what im planning on doing with my 280zx - I have everything at the moment except the switch, costs about $60AUD,

Thanks for that mate, alot of great information there, I think im just going to end up going with a 5spd manual, prefer to move away from the auto box, Anyone know what is involved in sticking an RB20DET or SR20DET gearbox into my 280zx? I know im going to need pedal box, slave & master cylinders and suitable connecting hose, Maybe a shorten tailshaft, maybe modify the rear gearbox mount and i know i will have to swap over bellhousings, Anyone know of a write-up of this conversion? I guess any 5spd from an S13 model skyline or late 80's Skyline gearbox is what im after,

Was wondering if anyone knew about 4spd auto conversions, Im sure i saw a faq on this website a while ago, but i cant seem to find it, I have an 280zx and was thinking of installing a 4spd auto gearbox, I have done some reading and it appears the gearbox from a 300c or earlier 300zx (with the vg30e engine) can be made to work in a 280zx, Apparently its got the mechanical, not computer controlled lockup, Anyone know how i can get this box this to fit? Also - i have a 1986 VL Commodore with 4spd auto lying around, anyone know if this gearbox can be used in the 280zx? I have been told that it can, with a change of bellhousing, but wasnt to certain if any other mods were required,

Car-sar-nit, Poltergeists you say!!! Nah, it dosent really seem to be affected when i turn the lights on or off, or whether the indicators are being used, or anything eles for that matter, Interestingly though, it has sorted stopped doing it, it might only be doing it when the gas tank gets below a 1/4 full - thats what appears to be happening at any rate, With the transmission, the guy i purchased it from said there was a problem with the cut-out switch, you know how you cant start an auto car in anything but Park, that switch that makes it so this actually happens is faulty according to the guy we bought it off, but why the grinding noise???

Car stumbles slightly, but that may be it just stalling, its reving at 900-1000rpm, then just stalls, Radio starts to flicker, than it just dies - the idle however is not rough at all, its idling at 900-1000rpm or so, than just dies on me, I say the radio, but also the lights (when they are turned on), its like it just loses power, but it has re-started 1st time every time after it stalls without the slightest drama, But, it also is starting to happen when im driving now, last night i was going about 70-80km's and it almost stalled on me again, The Radio started to flicker (thats my early warning signal) and the engine started to die on me, i quickly reved it and avoided stalling, Dont know if this will help, but when i start the car (its an auto) it sometimes dosent start when in park, i have to put the car in neutral to start the car, in park it makes an awful grinding noise, i change into neutral and then it starts fine, Just seems to idle and drive fine, but then for no reason the car just dies, the only warning i get is the radio flickering or the lights flickering, you cant really here anything noticeable in the engine,

Have another little problem with my 280zx, It keeps on stalling on me, driving along come to a stop at traffic lights or to slow down for a turn and the car keeps stalling, It seems to run just fine, i have replaced plugs, leads and coil, re-set the timing to 14deg, it started a day or two ago, What causes a car to just stall?

Enigma, no dont care at all, just want to get a new coil and not pay $185 for it!!! With those coil's do i have to do anything eles or will it bolt straight up? 260zed, thanks for that mate, your a legend, I wonder why no one lists the 280zx coil?

HELP!!! Where can i get a 1982 280zx Ignition coil in Australia, Repco, Super-cheap even the Nissan Dealership cant get me one, the Dealership has a listing for the coil, but its $185AUD, Got to be able to get one of these locally at a reasonable price, i've tried Warren at allzparts and he had a used one for me, but nothing eles, Anyone know where i can get one?

Engine side is sweet, no leaks there, and both heater hoses of the engine seemed hot, but it was hard to tell, when i investigated the hoses in the engine bay one of the hoses was not warm at all, one was quiet hot, so i think the tap is not opening properly, I think i have found the problem, the vacum hoses that come of the heat control were not connected properly, there are two vacumm hoses that go way up into the the unit that were not connected, the hoses had broken, im thinking this might cure my heater woes!!! However, half of the vacumm hose has broken of on its connection and it aint much fun getting to it, looks like im in for some serious fun today!!!

and yes its a 4-spd heater, but not sure if operates purely via vacum hoses,

I have one from a 1977 and it's markings are slightly different than what is in my 1974 260z, They are both heater/AC units though, when i have a look at my heater it appears it has three different set's of controls, 1st controls - controls the vents, this appeared to be just pulley opereated, when i slid the vents lever from one side to the other it appeared to go through its full cycle of operation - ie.........the little flaps on the heater/ac unit's side opened and closed (BUT) the air vents for the demister aint getting air!!! 2nd controls - operate the heat, this lever appears to move a lever on the right hand side very close to the engine coolant hoses, this appears to be working, 3rd Controls - is for the heater blower unit itself and as im getting the motor to blow out air, this appears to be working fine, When i move the "Cold - Hot" lever the plunger is connected and it appears to be moving what it is supposed to be moving, therefore, "then you may have to check if the heater core is plugged or if the hoses upstream of the heater are plugged / kinked." The hoses are plugged and there dosent appear to be a kink, but, could i have mixed up the hoses from the engine? could this make a difference? Dont know if this would help, but i have recently completed an engine conversion, i didnt do the wiring myself, get someone eles to do it for me, the heater now works without turning the key on - it can be turned on all the time - could this have something to do with it?

Im having a few issue's with my heater, It dosent seem to be working, in that its not filling up the cabin with hot air!!! The fan is certainly working, but when i move the lever to "hot" the air stay's nice and cold even after the engine has warmed up, This might be inter-related, but the Front Window de-mister vent's arent working either, no air is coming through the vents, i checked and made sure there was no blockage's and that the hoses were connected and crawled about under my dash to make sure the lever was actually doing something and it certainly is, anybody got any theories on this?

It clears, but only just, this was using Drunkenmaster's engine mounts and a 20mm spacer sandwitched between the engine mounts and Drunkenmaster's RB engine mounts, Intially the mounts sat the engine to low, caused sump clearance issues with the RB20 rear sump, but still had decent hood clearance, as these mounts appear pretty much identical to Castle Maine Rod Shop RB/Z mounts, it might be an idea to use their RB rear mounted sump instead of the RB20 one, as it look as if its flat at the front of the sump, not sloping like the RB one, However, even with this additional spacer, the intake has about 5mm clearance before it hits the bonnet, so RB30's will easily fit under the hood :-),