Aussie260z

Anyone know where i can get an L28ET - a factory turbo'd L28? A friend has a 280zx with an L28E, they would really like to turbo it but dont wanna go through the hassle's and expense of building and assembling components from scratch, basically after a good running L28ET, Is this possible in Australia?

This might seem like a dumb question, But externally the L24, L26 & L28 are indentical right.......... So if i have an L24e and i remove the sump & pickup, Then i grab the L26 Sump and pickup and bolted it to the L24e why would any modifications be required? I mean they are the same basic block, if im using a sump & pickup from one particular L-Series engine and bolting it to another why would modifications be required? Also - is the L-Series engines like the RB's for the dipstick hole placement? With an RB30 there is a provision for a rear mounted sump dipstick location, just have to tap out the cylinder plugging the hole and swap the dipstick and cylinder front to rear, Is this the same case for the L-Series engines? or is the casting atleast for different dipstick locations?

I have a few L26's lying around so if i just grab the Sump and Pickup from that engine i should be able to just install them into the L24e engine and then get the correct sump placement? Im actually doing an L24e conversion into a 260c - which is a mid-mounted sump from memory, but same issue's as if it was into a zed with the sump placement,

Was wondering if anyone can clarify something for me, If i have a 260z (2 seater) with an l26 and 3spd auto and i got my hands on an l24e with a 4spd auto from an R30 skyline, would this new driveline bolt straight into my zed? I know the engine is not going to be a drama as it's more or less the same engine, but im more concerned about the gearbox, Does the gearbox crossmember line up correctly with the gearbox mount position? Any help would be great,

Thanks for the link mate, made life alot easier, I ended up doing something very similar to that, basically cut the top of the tank - which you need to do to gain clearance for the fuel lines (hit the underbody of the car otherwise) and welded in a new plate section with the fuel cradle mounting rim welded on top, I ended up using a cradle from a 1991 Nissan Pintara, straightened it out and extended it so it sits at the bottom of the Datto tank, im still deciding on what pump to use, but my brother has a Walbro pump that is used in mustangs and is supposed to be good for about 400hp or so and it is exactly the same size as the little Bosch 937 pump that came with the Pintara, As for the sender unit i only have to bend it very slightly, just a little bit over to the right to give clearance for the swirl pot, The swirl pot was a custom job, literally just a rectangle with a hole at the bottom and two on each side at the top, I was going to use the Pintara swirl pot because its massive, but i would have been very difficult to fit inside the datto tank without doing some serious mods to the sender unit arm and also the Datto tank has little ridges on the bottom that the straps (the straps that hold the tank to the car) go into - so i ditched the Pintara swirl pot, This is a very cheap, easy, effective and quiet way to get the EFI fuel tank setup done, You end up with all your fuel stuff interallised without the tank, you only need 1 fuel pump and it looks soooooo much neater than having a bunch of sh#t under your rear wheel, Sorry, no pics at the moment, i will post some as soon as i get my camera back

I will hopefully get it underway and maybe sorted by the end of the weekend, i will let you know how i go, At the moment i am probably going to use the pump and cradle from an R31 Skyline and the swirl pot from a 1991 Pintara (2.4l version), its got a much bigger swirl pot than the R31's and earlier Pintara's, It looks as if it should be pretty straight forward

Yeah both were around the $165AUS mark, but by the time you buy all the pumps, hoses, clamps and filters you will required you will need around $400AUS im guesstimating (depending on which pumps you use and how cheap you get them), But i have another idea.................... Im going to grab an R31 or Pintara fuel tank, then im going to remove its fuel cradle and swirl pot, then im going to cut open my Datto tank and install both into my fuel tank - this will mean i only need one fuel pump and it will have an interanl surge tank, everything will be internal in the tank, Folks do this with 1600's - they have baffled tanks, but because there is a swirl pot i should have no worries with fuel starvation, I will let you know how i go, On a side note - no one knows if a 280zx fuel tank fits an earlier Zed - might be an option for the Aussie folks,

Found two options so far, Stewart Wilkins does a 2lt surge tank in the engine bay, fittings for a VL commodore fuel pump, EFI Hardware sell a 0.9l surge tank and bracketry that mounts it where the later Z's external fuel pumps are mounted, in the drivers side rear tyre well, But there has to be a decent in tank setup in Australia?

scrote, This is my 2jzge/5spd conversion into my 260z - in my opinion its a really easy conversion, because you can get the 2jz or 1jz for that matter in a rear sump configuration i think this makes it a better alternative than the RB engines, Also the price, 1jzgte engine package is about $1500AUD from the wreckers/importers, 2jz NA is about $1200AUD, 2jzgte is anywhere from $4500 to $6000, but this engine is awesome, but then you gotta fit that 6spd Getrag, but i dont think it would be any harder than putting in the RB25DET 5spd, they are both massive f#ckers!!! Anyways, check out my pics, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3205&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3211&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3206&cat=500&page=1

0.59" = 14.986mm (15mm approx), This is what Performance Wheels have on their books for all 1970-78 zeds wheel offsets,

thanks for that mate, but i dont much care for that one, looks like an 80's RX7?

Thanks my_mad_z, ill give them a yell, Nah thehelix112, where are they???

Oh............and as far as fitting 8" rims on your Zed go, Ive been assured that you can actually fit an 8" rim on the front of your Zed, The space you should have with stock suspension and stock body should be....... 4.5" (114.3mm) from hub face to spring perch 4.5" (114.3mm) from hub face to guard lip, a total of 9" (just enough room for 8" of rim), I think your pushing your luck if you take 114.3 distance from hub face to guard lip, i think you have about 112mm before you start touching stuff, ive measured and measured and then measured just to be sure, but folks have actually put 8" rims on their Zeds and its fit, with lots of clearance, So what does this mean in regards to retail rims available??? Lets look at, Performance Superlites 15" by 8" - 9.05kg (19.91lbs) -4, 110mm This rim gives us 110mm of Back-Spacing, and roughly 118mm of forward spacing, Which means you will clear you stock spring perch but you will hit the guards, so this dont fit, & Performance Challengers 15" by 8" - 8.5kg (18.7lbs) -9, 105mm & a Forward spacing of 123mm, Once again you will clear the spring perch, but your wheel will hit the guard, wrong offset, Ive found no one who does the correct offset if you want to put 8" rims under your zed unless you go with Panasports, but these sucka's are about what it costs to go with ROH & Simmons, they arent cheap :-)

ozzytyres@ozemail.com.au Here you go champ, only folk in OZ who flog em, Sorry i dont have a number, But its Ozzytyres in Sydney (pretty sure its Sydney), apparently theres a back-log for these wheels and the yanks have to be satisfied first, if you place an order you get em in about 2-8weeks, and there'll cost about $190/rim "Hi The rewind would have to be a special order @$190 each If we can put them on a container that will include freight If we have to air freight them it will cost extra $60 per wheel.... thanks"

"I havent read all of this post yet but the first thing I saw of it was tempetyres' website, so I feel I must tell everyone that those dudes have got the worst reputation for bodginess" Yeah thats what alot of people have told me since, not the best folk in the world to do business with, Nacks, Most of the retails places ive spoken quote about $200-$250/rim for the 16by7's, not a bad price, but the Performance wheels are pretty heavy buggers, and there offsets arent quite right, there okay in 16by7's but i think im going to need 17's, so i think im just going to bite the bullet and get some customs rims made up for me, probably go with ROH's

Anyone know where you can get ZG flares in Australia?

I remember reading somewhere that American Car makers Invented the mass produced pushrod V8 to get rid of overly compliacted OHC engines, the pushrod V8 was the future :-)

Anyone know in Australia were you can get your hands on ZG flares and a G-Nose???

Was wondering if anyone is keen on getting there hands on a 280YZ kit, as show here, http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yzgallery.html Just if its bought in bulk there would be savings on shipping the stuff all the way to Australia, the more who buy, the less overall it will cost in Shipping, Anyone interested in Australia of getting one of these body kits with me?

Arrrrgghhhhh.............i know i have this written down somewhere, just not at hand, The GTHO Phase 111 (all 380hp of it - the Phase 4 was supposed to have something like 410hp) went down the quarter a fraction slower than the VH RT Charger, like 14.4-9secs (something like that), the monaro was somewhere around 15.7secs (argh Holdens), However, The Charger's top speed was only about 195-200kms/hr, while the Monaro & GTHO was around the 230km's mark, The Charger did a 14.0sec quarter mile, which was not bettered (and this is even debated) untill, i think a VS commodore (well a mid 90's Holden), My brother bought me a 70's Wheels Car magazine which had all those cars in it and listed all there specs, my memory might be failing me, but im like 99% certain that the Charger, down the Quarter at least, beat everyone, including the 380hp, 8mpg, GTHO-Phase 3, I was reading through, i think a Zoom magazine, recently and it had interviews with Jim Richards, Mark Schaife, Tony Longhurst, John Bowe and a few others and they talked about the cars they all drove in the old Group A touring car class (before the V8 Supercars) and the R32 just sounded incredible, just killed everything in sight, then it was resricted with weight and boost penalties, but still killed everything in site

I think this would be a great idea, This engine was designed by Chrysler in the 60's as a replacement for the slant 6 and was intended as a truck motor, however they went with the 318-340-360 V8's and pretty much left this motor alone, Then the good folks at Chrysler Australia decided to do some work on it and brought it out here, then put it into there cars from about 1970 onwards, and we got the awesome hemi6, which came in 3 configurations - 3.7litre, 4.0litre and the 4.3litre - they were called the 245 & 265 Hemi's (even though they werent actually hemi engines), At its peak the 265Hemi pumped out about 225kw (302hp) and propelled the RT VH 1972 E49 Charger down the Quarter in 14sec flat, which was the record for a production passenger car in Australia for some 20-25years, and this was with 1972 rubber and a 1370kg car, This car had tripple 40mm webbers, from memory not much happened before 3000rpm, in the E49's atleast, there were milder versions like the E48 which was a slightly detuned version of the E49 - much more streetable camshaft, This engine has a mid mounted sump and looks a hell of a lot like an L-series engine, i think i would fit no worries and the engine mounts would probably be really easier to fabricate just because the mounts on the block are in roughly the same position as the L-series, The Jeep 4.0litre is based on the Hemi 245 but it is not the same engine, it from memory is just slightly different all over, and also has a front mounted sump, but it does have fuel injection, For the US folks getting your hands on an Australian Modified Hemi6 would be pretty difficult, but would be alot easier to fit, and there is people who flog off tripple throttle body setups and Supra 5-speed gearbox adapters, plus i have an article somewhere of someone turbo'ing one of these engines and getting alot of power out of them, But, fitting a Jeep 4.0litre would probably be alot harder than fitting the aussie modified 4.0litre or 4.3litre hemi6