Aussie260z

Just a few questions about brake setups, I've heard that Valiant CL-CM Single Piston Calipers bolt straight on to the 240-260z Datsun Strut, Anyone know if this is true? If it is, what rotor do you use? Also, Anyone know if RX-7 series iv/v Calipers are a straight bolt-on to the Zed strut?

What do you guys think of this setup for a turbo'd engine......... 1 - Purchase R31 Skyline Fuel Tank and Fuel Pump Cradle & Ford Mustang Internal Fuel pump (good for about 500hp) 2 - Remove Cradle from R31 fuel tank and mounting bracket from top of fuel tank 3 - Remove the fuel level Sender unit from R31 Fuel Pump Cradle (as it gets in the way - use the Datsun factory original fuel level sender unit) 4 - Get some 3"- 4" OD exhaust tubing off-cut and attach this to the fuel pump cradle (this is the swirl pot) making sure you have a gap at the top and bottom when mounted into the Datsun fuel tank 5 - Attach the "Low fuel level" sender unit from the R31 fuel pump cradle to the outside of the swirl pot (at a level where you want the fuel warning light to come on, ie.........1/4 tank, 6 - Install the Ford Mustang fuel pump into the fuel pump cradle Now have completed Fuel Cradle assembly ready to be bolted into the Datsun Fuel tank 7 - Cut a hole in the top of the Datsun fuel tank based on the mounting bracket from the R31 Skyline fuel tank, than Install the mounting bracket for the R31 fuel Cradle into the Datsun fuel tank (braze it) 8 - Install the fuel pump cradle setup into the Datsun fuel tank 9 - Connect up the Main & Return fuel lines from the 260z to the "new" in-tank fuel system (may need to use a reducing hose) 10 - Connect up the wires for fuel pump This is what a few 1600/Sr20 folk have done - but setup is done with a baffled fuel tank, and the swirl pot is mounted to the baffles, Anyone know if this will work as well with the unbaffled 240-260z fuel tank?

Does anyone know of a fuel tank that is baffled and that has an internal EFI fuel pump that can be easily adapted to fit into a 260z? Like an Skyline fuel tank? or a tank from a later 80's Pulsar............

Sorry made a mistake, They are 1" lowering King springs and 1" strut spacers, and non-adjustable Koni Red Shock absorbers, The adjustable Koni shock adsorbers were quite a bit more expensive

I have been looking into suspension stuff for ages and havent really come up with anything that im that keen on, At the moment, because i just cant justifty the expense of going to coil-overs, i was thinking of going down this route, From DATRALLY in Mebourne, 1.5" lowered springs, Strut Spacers, Adjustable Koni Shock absorbers, Adjustable TC rods, Adjustable Lower Control Arms, New urethane bushes, All for about $1500 or so, And they said you a spec sheet of how it is all to be setup when you go in for a wheel alignment, Then go over to "Speed Technology" and get adjustable Front & Rear Sway-bars, So you would end up with 1.5" lowered riding position and the ability to adjust caster and camber, and thickness of the sway-bars, Then if you wanted to at some later date, you could switch to a adjustable coil-over setup, And then you could adjust everything..............

I was just wondering about ride heights of the 240 & 260z, I have a 260z which im pretty sure sits at stock ride height, there is about 3" between the tyre and the guard, seems to sit kinda high, And i was reading through arizonazcar website which says that the stock ride height of the 240z was 1.5" lower than that of the 280z, http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html I know this website is not saying "260z" but my 260z sits awful high...............if anyone can tell me how to upload some pics i can show you all, Would this mean that if i wanted to lower the ride height of my Zed i could just get myself some springs and shocks that were intended for a 240z, bolt them into my 260z and lower the cars ride height by 1.5" without loosing any suspension travel? Or do the 240z and 260z share the same factory ride height?

Hls30 - any luck with those Actuator position pics mate?

Does anyone know the HP output of an L28E from an Aussie 280zx? Its just ive got conflicting information, not sure which one is correct........... I've found a place where the HP output from an L28E in a 280zx is rated at 170hp http://www.zshop.net.au/280tech.htm But everwhere eles (that i can find) says the L28E engine in the 280zx was rated at 139hp, Which one is correct?

Already did that, the bloke there said he had no experience with his engine fitting kit working with Right-Hand-Drive Zeds Some folks on Hybridz though the JTR kit might work if you switched the engine set back plates over (LH to RH and RH to LH) but no one was certain...........

Does the JTR engine set back plates work on Right-Hand drive cars?

This is just not working out............ I pulled the door trims of and gave it another go, I think i understood the directions given, but......... I bolted the actuator underneath the lock which looks as if it controls the inner door handle, But couldnt quite get a decent enough hold onto the lock to get it work properly - i managed to get it to close, but it wouldnt pop back up again, Think some pics would make this a lot easier............... Just couldnt get around connecting up the actuator with the door lock - there just wasnt anything in the Central Locking kit that was suitable

Wow...........that was a conversation starter :surprised

"it's been covered numerous times - please try and use the search function before posting" Just seems so dammed rude to answer somebodies question like this............

Yes, Yes i was I'll rip of the door trims tomorrow and give it another shot, Thanks for the info guys, If i can get it sorted ill take lots and lots of pics

HLS30, Dont suppose you have managed to track down a photo of the actuator mounting position yet?

What Adjustable coilovers kits can be found in Australia? How much do they go for? Any particular brand better than another?

My Mad Z, sent you a PM Anyone know of an alloy 4-piston caliper that will bolt onto the Z caliper housing?

Thats bizarre, My brother has a 1971 Datsun 1600 (510) and hes got a baffled factory tank, He had a sweet way to mount an internal EFI/Turbo pump by securing it to the baffles, would have been sweet to go with the same setup as it would be inside the tank

Hehehe...........so much to learn, its not like the Valiant with the torsion bar front-end Your right, with the "even if it costs more, do it ya cheap b#stard mentality" i will get the best result Ok - if you go with adjustable platforms dosent that mean that you should also modify the car to be able to adjust the camber and adjust the shocks? Because if you dont, When you lower the car, you lose suspension travel, which on a race track will be fine as you wont be likely to hit any major bumps, but on the street or a bumpy dirt road it aint going to be as fun, But because you can adjust the ride height you can negate this, just go up or down, However, If you have the adjustable platform you really need to switch to some way of easily adjusting the camber because by changing the cars ride height and not being able to adjust the camber will affect the cars steering characteristics adversly?

I have been looking into suspension mods for my 260z and there's so many things to consider, Was condsidering 2 options, Lowering the car an 1" with lowering springs or Lowering the car 2" by sectioning the struts Though about lowering the car only 1", would do this by using special 1" lowering springs, BUT - i have taken measurements of the front end suspension of my car and The lower-control arm pivot point on the crossmember is roughly 16mm off the ground, and the lower-control arm to ball-joint point is roughly 14.3mm off the ground, So, if i take out 1" of spring height i would make these points roughly horizontal, Which i was told was not a great idea by some, and others said as long as it didnt get above 15 deg (ie....the ball-joint side at a 15deg angle higher than the crossmember side) there would be no real dramas, Then........... If i lower the car 2" by sectioning the front struts, i would continue to use the stock springs on all 4 corners and swap the front shocks to the rear and get a suitable shock for the sectioned front struts, But come back to the same problem as before, i would raise the mounting point of the lower-control arm pivot on the crossmember by about 20mm, but im still lowering the car 50mm (2") and once again bringing the lower-control crossmember pivot roughly back in-line (same distance from the ground) with the lower control arm-to-ball joint point, Hope the way i've explained this made sense Anyone got any opinions on this?

Not 100% certain about what im going to do with the rears, But im annoying the kind folk at DBA australia and trying to get them to track down discs that are vented, 300mm or larger, can be bought un-drilled and have as close as possible dimensions (overall thickness and centre diameter) to the original Z stock disc rotors, Then hopefully i can get them at a reasonable price (or maybe not...........i called up Repco and they told me i could get some Ford AU111 Xr8 325mm by 32mm rotors for a mear $800 for the front pair, they started off at $900, but i guess i must have sound pretty unimpressed with that Then get the calipers that these rotors have clamping on them from the factory, i figure 300mm rotors are more than likely to have some pretty decent calipers attached to them, Everything will come down to price though, this is the plan at the moment, but i will have to wait untill DBA get back to me and i start doing the ring-around for prices