Aussie260z

Was wondering if anyone can help me get my car started, Its an R30 skyline with EFI'd L24 engine it in, i seem to be getting pretty good spark - but not sure about the fuel, I cannot hear the fuel pump when car is on accessaries or start, i also removed the line from the fuel filter (in the engine bay) there was fuel in the filter, but i was thinking fuel should wizz out when i turned the key to acc or start? this did not happen.............. Anyone got any suggestions?

http://www.newgel.com.au/datsun.htm I have the rear spoiler shown in the above link's pictures, It does not have any designated bolt holes, What i was thinking of doing was attaching it with 2 bolts at either end and using some water based polyurethane all around it, That should hold it right?

No, you dont need a turbo ECU, What you can do is use something called a "HOBBS" Switch, this switch runs of vacum pressure from your intake manifold, You plumb this in-line from the Temp sender to the ECU and also plumb into your intake, when the engine gets on boost this switch tricks the ECU into thinking the engine is cold, than the ECU richens up the fuel mixture, However, im not really sure how much extra fuel this little device will supply, but for lower boost applications this would work fine, This is what they did with "Dealer" installed turbo kits on 280zx's, this is what im planning on doing with my 280zx - I have everything at the moment except the switch, costs about $60AUD,

Thanks for that mate, alot of great information there, I think im just going to end up going with a 5spd manual, prefer to move away from the auto box, Anyone know what is involved in sticking an RB20DET or SR20DET gearbox into my 280zx? I know im going to need pedal box, slave & master cylinders and suitable connecting hose, Maybe a shorten tailshaft, maybe modify the rear gearbox mount and i know i will have to swap over bellhousings, Anyone know of a write-up of this conversion? I guess any 5spd from an S13 model skyline or late 80's Skyline gearbox is what im after,

Was wondering if anyone knew about 4spd auto conversions, Im sure i saw a faq on this website a while ago, but i cant seem to find it, I have an 280zx and was thinking of installing a 4spd auto gearbox, I have done some reading and it appears the gearbox from a 300c or earlier 300zx (with the vg30e engine) can be made to work in a 280zx, Apparently its got the mechanical, not computer controlled lockup, Anyone know how i can get this box this to fit? Also - i have a 1986 VL Commodore with 4spd auto lying around, anyone know if this gearbox can be used in the 280zx? I have been told that it can, with a change of bellhousing, but wasnt to certain if any other mods were required,

Car-sar-nit, Poltergeists you say!!! Nah, it dosent really seem to be affected when i turn the lights on or off, or whether the indicators are being used, or anything eles for that matter, Interestingly though, it has sorted stopped doing it, it might only be doing it when the gas tank gets below a 1/4 full - thats what appears to be happening at any rate, With the transmission, the guy i purchased it from said there was a problem with the cut-out switch, you know how you cant start an auto car in anything but Park, that switch that makes it so this actually happens is faulty according to the guy we bought it off, but why the grinding noise???

Car stumbles slightly, but that may be it just stalling, its reving at 900-1000rpm, then just stalls, Radio starts to flicker, than it just dies - the idle however is not rough at all, its idling at 900-1000rpm or so, than just dies on me, I say the radio, but also the lights (when they are turned on), its like it just loses power, but it has re-started 1st time every time after it stalls without the slightest drama, But, it also is starting to happen when im driving now, last night i was going about 70-80km's and it almost stalled on me again, The Radio started to flicker (thats my early warning signal) and the engine started to die on me, i quickly reved it and avoided stalling, Dont know if this will help, but when i start the car (its an auto) it sometimes dosent start when in park, i have to put the car in neutral to start the car, in park it makes an awful grinding noise, i change into neutral and then it starts fine, Just seems to idle and drive fine, but then for no reason the car just dies, the only warning i get is the radio flickering or the lights flickering, you cant really here anything noticeable in the engine,

Have another little problem with my 280zx, It keeps on stalling on me, driving along come to a stop at traffic lights or to slow down for a turn and the car keeps stalling, It seems to run just fine, i have replaced plugs, leads and coil, re-set the timing to 14deg, it started a day or two ago, What causes a car to just stall?

Enigma, no dont care at all, just want to get a new coil and not pay $185 for it!!! With those coil's do i have to do anything eles or will it bolt straight up? 260zed, thanks for that mate, your a legend, I wonder why no one lists the 280zx coil?

HELP!!! Where can i get a 1982 280zx Ignition coil in Australia, Repco, Super-cheap even the Nissan Dealership cant get me one, the Dealership has a listing for the coil, but its $185AUD, Got to be able to get one of these locally at a reasonable price, i've tried Warren at allzparts and he had a used one for me, but nothing eles, Anyone know where i can get one?

Engine side is sweet, no leaks there, and both heater hoses of the engine seemed hot, but it was hard to tell, when i investigated the hoses in the engine bay one of the hoses was not warm at all, one was quiet hot, so i think the tap is not opening properly, I think i have found the problem, the vacum hoses that come of the heat control were not connected properly, there are two vacumm hoses that go way up into the the unit that were not connected, the hoses had broken, im thinking this might cure my heater woes!!! However, half of the vacumm hose has broken of on its connection and it aint much fun getting to it, looks like im in for some serious fun today!!!

and yes its a 4-spd heater, but not sure if operates purely via vacum hoses,

I have one from a 1977 and it's markings are slightly different than what is in my 1974 260z, They are both heater/AC units though, when i have a look at my heater it appears it has three different set's of controls, 1st controls - controls the vents, this appeared to be just pulley opereated, when i slid the vents lever from one side to the other it appeared to go through its full cycle of operation - ie.........the little flaps on the heater/ac unit's side opened and closed (BUT) the air vents for the demister aint getting air!!! 2nd controls - operate the heat, this lever appears to move a lever on the right hand side very close to the engine coolant hoses, this appears to be working, 3rd Controls - is for the heater blower unit itself and as im getting the motor to blow out air, this appears to be working fine, When i move the "Cold - Hot" lever the plunger is connected and it appears to be moving what it is supposed to be moving, therefore, "then you may have to check if the heater core is plugged or if the hoses upstream of the heater are plugged / kinked." The hoses are plugged and there dosent appear to be a kink, but, could i have mixed up the hoses from the engine? could this make a difference? Dont know if this would help, but i have recently completed an engine conversion, i didnt do the wiring myself, get someone eles to do it for me, the heater now works without turning the key on - it can be turned on all the time - could this have something to do with it?

Im having a few issue's with my heater, It dosent seem to be working, in that its not filling up the cabin with hot air!!! The fan is certainly working, but when i move the lever to "hot" the air stay's nice and cold even after the engine has warmed up, This might be inter-related, but the Front Window de-mister vent's arent working either, no air is coming through the vents, i checked and made sure there was no blockage's and that the hoses were connected and crawled about under my dash to make sure the lever was actually doing something and it certainly is, anybody got any theories on this?

It clears, but only just, this was using Drunkenmaster's engine mounts and a 20mm spacer sandwitched between the engine mounts and Drunkenmaster's RB engine mounts, Intially the mounts sat the engine to low, caused sump clearance issues with the RB20 rear sump, but still had decent hood clearance, as these mounts appear pretty much identical to Castle Maine Rod Shop RB/Z mounts, it might be an idea to use their RB rear mounted sump instead of the RB20 one, as it look as if its flat at the front of the sump, not sloping like the RB one, However, even with this additional spacer, the intake has about 5mm clearance before it hits the bonnet, so RB30's will easily fit under the hood :-),

Would have been from the way my fuel system has been done, i had to cut into the top of tank about 1-2" down and about 6" wide and deep, so that has probably lost me 5-10L, Thanks for the advice guys, will give Alan a call,

Im pretty sure the later Z fuel tanks, like mid 1975 onwards differ from the early tanks, this is only a theory mind you, but i came to this conclusion because the later zeds had the 2.8FI engine's in them, so maybe they have some internal swirl pot or something like that that alters the sender unit in some way? But from 1970-75 i dont know if there was any difference, but it could be like Zedrally said, the tank got marginally bigger, My tank was bone dry and I managed to squeeze in 50L on the dot, however, because of the way ive done my fuel system i had to cut into the top of the tank to mount the fuel pump cradle, so i would expect that from doing this i would have lost 5approx Litres, so if i go by the fact that I have the larger fuel tank that might lead me to the correct sender unit, Think i will just see if i can fix it, if not, i will just try my luck with the $66 unit, Other problem is, that my original sender unit has been bent to accomodate the in-tank swirl pot, so if i do need to buy a new one i will have to bend it again,

How weird is that? It has two fuel sending unit's listed, 1970-76 & 1977-78, When i've looked eleswhere, there have been 3 listed, I think im just better of going with the fuel sender unit from Lindsey in Melbourne for $66AUD, im sure this is the 1970-74(August) one, then if it comes to it, just swap the fuel gauge from a 240z, I've spoken to a few people about getting my re-co'd, been told thats it not the most complicated piece of machinery in the world, so it might just come to that, easier than the above option and probably about as expensive, Still, be good to get a new sender unit :-), I will pull mine out and see what kind of condition its in, if its past f#cked, i will just buy the one for $66 from Lindsey, then if needed, i will just swap out the fuel gauge with a 240z unit, i have been looking for an excuse to pull out the gauges to put in a digital clock anyways :-),

Its still the problem of no one really knowing whether or not im actually using the right fuel sender unit, im pretty sure the one you listed from courtesy is not my Datto, But this bloke in SA, from Datsport is usually (i found anyways) the best for Nissan part's and price's and he said he cant get one anymore for a 9/1974 260z, and even if he could it would cost $135AUD, Nissan Dealership has said the same thing, Might come to me pulling it out and seeing if it can be reco'd and if not trying my luck with the 240z unit and maybe (if needed) use a 240z fuel gauge,

Was wondering if anyone could give me some advice, thought there would be a few folks on here who might be able to help with an RB30 engine, I have an N/A RB30 (SOHC) and am having trouble with cold starts, when the engine is warm it runs and starts fine, However, when i kick it over for the first time in the day it takes a little while to kick over (cranks fine) but just dosent start, then when it does (after 4-5 goes) it sounds like it wants to die on me, and it idles very eractically for the first couple of mins, For example, The rev's increase, then they decrease and i think the car is going to stall (it dosent, but its sounds like its getting pretty close to stalling) and then does this again, takes about 5mins of warming it up before the engine starts to idle properly, Its a stock RB30 from a 1986 VL Commodore, stock everything including ECU, Injectors etc..........etc, the engine is in my 260z and im using the stock in-tank fuel pump setup from a 1992 Nissan Pintara, I also recently replaced the water pump (which was awesome fun :-) but didnt change the timing belt, Anybody got any ideas? Or atleast where i should start

That looks alot like mine, very very similar, But still trying to find out if the sender units differ after 8/1974, Cheapest i could find was $66AUD from Lindsey, $80AUD from Warrent and $110AUD (approx) from the Nissan Dealer,

1 Bravo 6, After i spoke with my local Nissan dealer's I called Warren and then Lindsey down in Melbourne, both didnt really know, Warren actually told me he thought they were the same and i "should" be alright - but wasnt to keen on this................ Lindsey said that he didnt really work in the parts area, some other bloke does that, he said he should be able to give me the correct sender unit, but he only comes into work on Monday's, so i might have to wait untill monday week, dkd021, Yeah, thats what im thinking, why would Nissan use different part numbers if the part was exactly the same,

I'm pretty sure i've heard somewhere that the 260z was different after 9/1974 in some way, but cant remember what, so that was what i was assuming would be told to me when i called the Nissan Dealership, but the two ones that are local to me both said the same thing, the Sender Unit changed after 8/1974 and again in (i think) 06/1975, But he also said the book was a little odd, in that one of the part number's run was 9/1974 to 8/1974 - going backwards, not forwards, he didnt really have an explanation for this one, But still back to the original question, anyone know if you can inter-change the fuel sender units between 240z and 260z's (and 280z's)?

Was wondering if anyone knew for certain, I need a new fuel sender unit, i have tracked down a new 240z fuel sender unit, but i have a Sept 1974 260z 2 seater, as yet i have not managed to find anyone who has a Sept 1974 260z 2 seater fuel sender unit - i might be able to get it from Japan, but thats costly, So, does anyone know for certain whether or not i can use the 240z sender unit in my 260z? i know it will fit, but i want my gauge to work correctly :-), The bloke at Nissan said the part #'s change from Aug 1974 in the 2 Seater Zed's, so he was not certain if they were the same unit,

Hi Guys, was wondering if i could get some help with my 280zx, I have a problem with the fuel consumption, Im getting roughly 330km's (200miles approx) out of a tank, roughly 65Litres of fuel, That seems kinda rough to me, Ive had a bit of a look around and other folks have said they are getting (or its possible to get) out of an L28E atleast around about the 20mpg's mark, which would give me in-access of 500km's out of a tank by my calculations, The car runs really well, starts first time, dosent seem to be miss-firing, Anyone got any theories on what could be leading to this kind of fuel consumption???