Hypertek

I bought the Longevity Mig 140 on amazon, as a step above the eastwood mig135 (in my opinion). My first mig welded and am getting better every time I do something. But so far its been great. I would have loved to have gotten a 220v mig, but my tool barn isn't wired for 220v.

Hey guys, How perfect does the surface have to be before spraying down the SEM texture paint? I was pretty confident with my work , but when i sprayed some rocker panel texture guard (body shop recommended it) , i wasnt too happy as i could see some blemishes. So im going over it again and got a can of sem texture paint this time. Last pic was when i started to sand it, but shows a few blemishes .

Ive seen modified cars go for a decent amount. (I know purist won't agree with this) Its all about the quality of parts.. I think japanese modded cars can hold their value.. Authentic japanese wheels as opposed to Rotas/XXRs, Authentic jdm fender mirrors, as opposed to the plastic fender mirrors etc.

good thread. My z has a few holes i want to get welded up. mirror holes (going fender mirrors) https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/1601120_10151996840348557_887137795_n.jpg rear panel rust spots https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/q80/s720x720/1554614_10152009839468557_955095027_n.jpg (id like to just cut a flat sheet to cut and weld in place). On my FC rx7, i actually filled in the spoiler and emblem holes with rage gold body filler (alot better than bondo brand fillers). I think i put jb weld stick on the back side of the holes for support. It held up a few years (recently gave the car away as a shell). I don't have a welder, but that is something I want to get into. Edit: That solder trick looks pretty good in my opinion. Do that, shave it down, than a skim coat of body filler on top of it should be good.

I thought the correct 280zx mc where no longer available?

how hard is it to remove the gas tank? I may try that shake method on my Z, been sitting for a few years when i picked it up. No idea whats back there .. But would give me a chance to replace the fuel lines back there anyways.. Seems like it wouldnt cost much. I had an rx7 and i had to premix with 2 stroke oil all the time.. it really adds up costs to the fuel. I would buy a 5 quart bottle of 2 stroke oil, than refill a small 1 quart bottle of 2 stroke oil to keep in the car. RX7s inject motor oil into the combustion from the factory (unless you remove the oil metering pump *mine got damaged so i blocked it off and started premix*)

ok i already know whats up. The replacement housing is different than the original. may need more trimming. Will finish it up tomorrow

Ok, so I decided to replace the key cylinder.. Wanting a new set of keys i could than get my locks rekeyed for. I went with an locksmart key cylinder that I got from autozone. I had to do some altering to the part (mainly trimming the pivot point to reach the full rotation that the original had). I got everything back together the best of my knowledge. I havent slapped it in the car yet. My question is the switch here.. Right now it seems to be a closed circuit.. does that look about right? Is it suppose to move open?

awesome guys! Always good to have some motivation =) Datsmo's facebook had a coloring contest This was the original image and i did this Blue, that is gonna be sweet. Yeah I also want to do that. i bought a 2 piece g nose, the real fender mirrors, and some wheels before I bought my car . (parted out my rx7 to get the parts, couldn't pass up the deals). Just need the flares (those are pretty cheap and common) hood hinges (can be made) and the headlight covers. My inspirations I mostly just browse the fairlady z section on minkara.carview , alot of good stuff on there once you learn how to navigate the site FAIRLADY_Z/NISSAN?Car Introduction?Minkara - The Car & Automobile SNS

Cool. Car now has electricity =) I ordered a 280z volt fuel gauge from a hybridz member. Car however doesn't crank. Took the starter out and tested it on the ground, looked ok but gonna go get a new one tomorrow as this one could be in crap shape (autozone reman is like $30 bucks, plus my employee discount) . Meanwhile, I am soaking the cylinders with a little atf, just in case the motor seized, but i really hope it didn't.

if i swap to a 280z voltmeter , than i should be good right? Most of my cars have ran with voltmeters, so i prefer that setup . I also plan to swap to a 90amp maxima alternator (i should have picked one up when i was at the junk yard).

ok I think I see it now, I can do it this way. let me know what you think. Should be simple enough. I did a quick edit to your picture if you don't mind.

Thanks for the quick reply. Your setup looks great. I suppose though that you did all the homework and rewired the whole thing huh? I kinda get the idea though, to wire the fuse box somewhere before the original location. I am still a bit lost though

So my fusible link box was in pretty bad shape. I went out and purchased a 2 fuse maxifuse block from walmart, which I want to install. Now the thing is the 74 260z is a little different from all the write ups Ive seen done on the maxifuse upgrade on 240s and 280s. I seen maybe 1 or 2 people mention they done it from doing a google search, but no specifics on how it was done. I stripped the wiring harness back. I removed the white wire that went from the starter positive to the fusible link. I am going to run an 8 gauge power wire from the battery direct to my new maxifuse block. The other end of the white wire (that was originally fused to the fusible link) i will hook that up to the new maxifuse block. But what I am stuck on is the white/red wiring. 2 of those wires seem to run into the interior side of the harness from what it looks like, while 1 of them is spliced towards the alternator (im assuming) I know someone out there has to have done the 260z upgrade. Hopefully you guys can help me with it. People been telling me to look at the fsm, but i don't understand it.

Think it might be a good precautionary idea to have a propane torch and penetrating fluid to soak and heat up the surrounding areas before attempting to unscrew?