Hypertek

I bought the Longevity Mig 140 on amazon, as a step above the eastwood mig135 (in my opinion). My first mig welded and am getting better every time I do something. But so far its been great. I would have loved to have gotten a 220v mig, but my tool barn isn't wired for 220v.

Hey guys, How perfect does the surface have to be before spraying down the SEM texture paint? I was pretty confident with my work , but when i sprayed some rocker panel texture guard (body shop recommended it) , i wasnt too happy as i could see some blemishes. So im going over it again and got a can of sem texture paint this time. Last pic was when i started to sand it, but shows a few blemishes .

Ive seen modified cars go for a decent amount. (I know purist won't agree with this) Its all about the quality of parts.. I think japanese modded cars can hold their value.. Authentic japanese wheels as opposed to Rotas/XXRs, Authentic jdm fender mirrors, as opposed to the plastic fender mirrors etc.

good thread. My z has a few holes i want to get welded up. mirror holes (going fender mirrors) https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/1601120_10151996840348557_887137795_n.jpg rear panel rust spots https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/q80/s720x720/1554614_10152009839468557_955095027_n.jpg (id like to just cut a flat sheet to cut and weld in place). On my FC rx7, i actually filled in the spoiler and emblem holes with rage gold body filler (alot better than bondo brand fillers). I think i put jb weld stick on the back side of the holes for support. It held up a few years (recently gave the car away as a shell). I don't have a welder, but that is something I want to get into. Edit: That solder trick looks pretty good in my opinion. Do that, shave it down, than a skim coat of body filler on top of it should be good.

I thought the correct 280zx mc where no longer available?

how hard is it to remove the gas tank? I may try that shake method on my Z, been sitting for a few years when i picked it up. No idea whats back there .. But would give me a chance to replace the fuel lines back there anyways.. Seems like it wouldnt cost much. I had an rx7 and i had to premix with 2 stroke oil all the time.. it really adds up costs to the fuel. I would buy a 5 quart bottle of 2 stroke oil, than refill a small 1 quart bottle of 2 stroke oil to keep in the car. RX7s inject motor oil into the combustion from the factory (unless you remove the oil metering pump *mine got damaged so i blocked it off and started premix*)

ok i already know whats up. The replacement housing is different than the original. may need more trimming. Will finish it up tomorrow

Ok, so I decided to replace the key cylinder.. Wanting a new set of keys i could than get my locks rekeyed for. I went with an locksmart key cylinder that I got from autozone. I had to do some altering to the part (mainly trimming the pivot point to reach the full rotation that the original had). I got everything back together the best of my knowledge. I havent slapped it in the car yet. My question is the switch here.. Right now it seems to be a closed circuit.. does that look about right? Is it suppose to move open?

awesome guys! Always good to have some motivation =) Datsmo's facebook had a coloring contest This was the original image and i did this Blue, that is gonna be sweet. Yeah I also want to do that. i bought a 2 piece g nose, the real fender mirrors, and some wheels before I bought my car . (parted out my rx7 to get the parts, couldn't pass up the deals). Just need the flares (those are pretty cheap and common) hood hinges (can be made) and the headlight covers. My inspirations I mostly just browse the fairlady z section on minkara.carview , alot of good stuff on there once you learn how to navigate the site FAIRLADY_Z/NISSAN?Car Introduction?Minkara - The Car & Automobile SNS

Cool. Car now has electricity =) I ordered a 280z volt fuel gauge from a hybridz member. Car however doesn't crank. Took the starter out and tested it on the ground, looked ok but gonna go get a new one tomorrow as this one could be in crap shape (autozone reman is like $30 bucks, plus my employee discount) . Meanwhile, I am soaking the cylinders with a little atf, just in case the motor seized, but i really hope it didn't.

if i swap to a 280z voltmeter , than i should be good right? Most of my cars have ran with voltmeters, so i prefer that setup . I also plan to swap to a 90amp maxima alternator (i should have picked one up when i was at the junk yard).

ok I think I see it now, I can do it this way. let me know what you think. Should be simple enough. I did a quick edit to your picture if you don't mind.

Thanks for the quick reply. Your setup looks great. I suppose though that you did all the homework and rewired the whole thing huh? I kinda get the idea though, to wire the fuse box somewhere before the original location. I am still a bit lost though

So my fusible link box was in pretty bad shape. I went out and purchased a 2 fuse maxifuse block from walmart, which I want to install. Now the thing is the 74 260z is a little different from all the write ups Ive seen done on the maxifuse upgrade on 240s and 280s. I seen maybe 1 or 2 people mention they done it from doing a google search, but no specifics on how it was done. I stripped the wiring harness back. I removed the white wire that went from the starter positive to the fusible link. I am going to run an 8 gauge power wire from the battery direct to my new maxifuse block. The other end of the white wire (that was originally fused to the fusible link) i will hook that up to the new maxifuse block. But what I am stuck on is the white/red wiring. 2 of those wires seem to run into the interior side of the harness from what it looks like, while 1 of them is spliced towards the alternator (im assuming) I know someone out there has to have done the 260z upgrade. Hopefully you guys can help me with it. People been telling me to look at the fsm, but i don't understand it.

Think it might be a good precautionary idea to have a propane torch and penetrating fluid to soak and heat up the surrounding areas before attempting to unscrew?

Good video. Maybe a bit off topic, id love to see more documentation on the jdm fairlady z, like the development of the 432, g nose etc, changes to the s31, etc. I suppose thats not too far off topic though since the car was developed in japan, so it all relates to the overall production run of the generation. Would be good. I wonder why nissan never made anything like that. Ive seen a few japanase books/magazines on ebay. I got an issue of Nostalgic Hero that has alot of Z stuff in it. but sadly I do not read Japanese. Im sure there is more detailed info in japanese print, just no one has translated or posted on the internet.

I will post this 2 years ago I sprayed my rx7's engine bay with rustoleum 7777 satin black, thined out and shot through a spray gun/air compressor. Search google for rustoleum 7777 and there are a few posts from muscle car guys about it. If its good enough for them, its good enough for me Sadly I never put the car back together, I lost interest in putting back together and am parting it out. but the car sits outside, no garage. The paint seems to be holding up fine.

Your car looks great, can't go wrong with either mirrors! I don't have a Z yet, but I bought a set of used authentic black mirrors, mainly because the black ones are a bit taller which I hear offer slightly more visibility than the chrome ones. Chrome ones are a little shorter in height.

The race car here, looks like it has plastic lense or so, So that is possible. The brown car, you can tell it is a simple 2 piece fiberglass G nose, and not a multi-piece .

Some more G nose pics I saved from various sites The glass could be done from plexiglass or so.

What I find interesting, is the japanese market didn't have the fat bumpers.. so all the way up to the s130, they always had the beautiful skin fitting bumpers of the 240z, with the refinement that came along the years. The chassis code became S31 (which would be our 260z and 280z) . I would be happy with any year of the japanese model. Seems like there where a few more JDM models . 260z 2+2 G nose, haa beat that! Would figure that in Japan, all of these cars would be valuable , since the cost of owning an old car cost soo much more (they favor crushing old cars.)

I think those look horrible on the fender, they are not correct. I've seen pictures of Zs with them, and they do not make the car look "jdm" imo.

ok guys, I live in california, so potential rust would be at least minimum, though the brown next door car I can see surface rust on the roof. He won't sell it. Now today I road my bike by the house with the Z in the garage, saw a guy about to walk his dog, so I asked about the garage Z. he said it belongs to a relative, and its not for sale. I than proceeded on my way around the block to continue my bike ride. Now of course, it could always be a matter of catching another member of the household and asking again. Who knows. But from the sounds of being a "relative" tends to tell me that it is somebody that does not live there, hence it could not be up to them. So far that ends these two options. Road my bike around the neighborhood, spotted an 84-86 z31 300zx, 2 7x's firebirds, 1 7x's camaro, in different yards. The z31 doesn't interest me as much as the s30.

Ok guys, My neighbor has a 72 sitting in his back yard that I been wanting to check out/buy, but I know he won't sell it, as his roommate tells me how they think its worth alot of money and he won't sell it etc.. But the roommate told me of another Z sitting in the garage across the street. I have never noticed (well I don't go around looking in people's yards.) and sure enough, I saw it. Sorry I know the picture sucks, I didn't want to look like I'm scooping out the house, and these houses are fenced off, as it is a rural area. What can you assume the year is by the rear bumper? btw here is the one in my nextdoor neighbor's yard that I'm sure is a 72 https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/390430_10151100167833557_898930062_n.jpg http://i27.tinypic.com/288thlf.jpg I know these cars would be expensive if they never took care of the registration/non-op them. I wouldn't pay alot either as I could find a better one for more on craigslist, but if they where cheap they would be great.

I will say matt black, flat black would look too much like primer imo. But matte would look very nice. http://blog.sakai-motor.co.jp/tenryu/2007/04/19/240%EF%BC%BA%EF%BC%A7.JPG