carperson

How reliable and durable are the '78 280Z auto transmissions? Anything special to check or look-out for?

What percent were auto transmissions and what percent were manual transmissions in 240-260-280z cars over the production runs?

I don't disagree with either of you guys. This could well be a $3-$4K car, which is one big reason, IF i can buy it soon for less than $2K, I probably will. Also trying to build in some "what if I'm wrong on condition" dollar cushion here. Usually only deal with completed cars, not project cars. The (maybe) bargain purchase could happen for a variety of reasons: I know the seller's family, seller is anxious to get the car sold and literally move to another state, and the car may have some DMV "problems" that I'm more qualified to get resolved than the average guy off the street, since I"m a licensed DMV auto broker and deal with this sort of stuff, daily. (I'm budgeting $2-$300 in time and money to get those issues resolved-that enters into the buying price equation-and the seller knows that) Bottom line. I suspect like many old cars it's actually cheaper in the long run to just buy one that's already "done" (the green 240) than one that will need work (this blue 280). But, ethically, potential buyers have first shot at the green Z I'm selling, for my client, and I'll enjoy renovating the 280-even if it ultiimately costs more. Thanks for the input. Reading the past posts here, some of you guys have clearly "been there and done that" a for a long time, with these project Zs.

To answer some of the issues that have been raised: This 280 is remarkably rust free, and no bondo according to the visual and magnet check. Dash is badly cracked, but covered with nice custom (soft) dash cover. I'll probably hard cap it later. Seats are OK now-actually a combination of original Z back and GM bottom cushions, comfortable for me. Doesn't look correct, but feels good, to me. Carpeting is bad, needs replaced, including hatch area. Needs radio, (and probably speakers). I'll go with a single CD player ordinary generic unit. No valve train clicking-valves and motor sound fine-just the expected injector clicking (I could have said that better the first time) Minor stuff needed-center trim hubs for wheels, new steering wheel (old is deterioting foam rim type), new gear shift knob (boot is OK). New radio antenna is with the car, but not installed. Needs new console cover. Assuming the big mechanical stuff is OK (engine, trans, clutch) biggest expense should be paint, followed by some better tires, followed by interior upgrades, I'm guessing. The good stuff is the rust-free body, functioning a/c, good steering-brakes- suspension, nice running motor, clutch seems OK, black interior with great door panels and headliner. Just passed smog easily with a brand new cat converter. Could be 70K instead of 170K looking at the usual car indicators, and some paperwork and documentation. My biggest concern-the 4 to 5 years it sat, parked outside. The paint, dash and faded carpet, clearly show that. There will probably be some more soft items to be replaced from that inactivity-gaskets, etc. I'm ballpark estimating $3-4K additional to make this a decent looking, reliable daily driver (fair quality paint job), if there are no major surprises. I expect to pay less than $2K for the car, up front. Always the optimist... :squareeye If the green one sells, and I buy this blue one, pictures of the start-renovation-and end product will follow. Thanks for the input, so far, gives me some more things to think about.

Old Z folks (the cars not the people) Looks like sombody may be buying the "doesn't need much" nice green 240Z I've shown here. So...there's a "fixer-upper" '76 280Z with an alleged 70K miles, I'm considering. You know, one of those "pay me now, or pay me later" situations. Runs and drives pretty darn good. Very tight body and steering, good brakes. Feels like it may have those 70K miles. Basically sat for the last 4-5 years. Hoses, belts and some gaskets have already been replaced. No leaks, no smoking, some injector clicking. This 280Z is rust free (always a Central Cal car)...but....there's alway a but...while solid mechanically...needs cosmetics: faded orginal silver/blue paint (won't buff out), no radio at all (sad looking speakers in the doors), needs new carpet thru-out, OK seats and great headliner and door panels, factory air actually works fine (just recharged), heater doesn't, OK tires and stock alum wheels, needs stuff like a nicer steering wheel and shift knob, etc. Glass and all chrome and trim are good. Don't want a show car, don't care if it's not all original. Would like a nice "20 footer" daily driver. What would you guys pay for such a car...and how much am I going to spend fixing this thing up. Looking for very rough ball-park guesses. No. Cal prices. I'll install the easy stuff, a pro will paint the car. Hurry, I may buy tomorrow, if the price is "right"... Thanks

A homepage photo Z folks may like: http://www.carperson.com/

Those cars look exactly like the "perfect" "excellent" "creampuff" "etc" cars sellers are alway describing to me, for the buying half of the business-until I actually get there and see them up close and personal... Caveat Empor!

What's interesting, is this Z has recent new Webers and choking them feels and acts quite a bit different than I remember the original carbs. Thanks for the warm welcome. This is a good place, I'll probably be here as a real Z owner.

Those 1200 coupes were neat cars. Felt like driving gocarts, compared to the "big" sedans and Z's They were a little tough to get quickly and easily in and out of when bundled up for the windy Chicago winters. We moved a lot of cars most days!

It's a rust/corrosion prevention liquid/spray/wax. http://www.schafco.com/cosmoline.asp As it got colder in the winter, back then, the stuff would get stickier-stiffer-yellower. We ended up jumping a lot of car batteries, and invariably if you spent much time under the hoods the cosmoline would end up on your clothes and gloves. Made a very distinctive smell when it burnt off the exhaust manifolds. Stronger than today's new car smells. The dealers loaded most of the Z's with lots of accessories and overcharged. Same old...

Back is 1971 my first job out of the Navy, was Port/Distribution Manager for Datsun in Chicago. It basically involved organizing and running the distribution of Datsun vehicles from a huge "port" parking lot/holding area to dealers in the MidWest. Some of the memories from those times include how incredibly hot the Zs still were and in great demand, the heavy amounts of cosmoline that Datsun covered the cars with before shipping them from Japan (and the smells that stuff made as it burned off engine components), the art of choke usage to start those cars and keep them running in cold Chicago winters and the same old tactics the manufacturer used to force dealers to take slow sellers (1200s) in order to get Z's. (Dealer wanted a Z, he had take six 1200s with it). Dealers also tried some pretty shady stuff to get more Z's, or get Z's early. (Some things never change) The Navy officer training helped... Took quite a while to teach new yard guys how to choke the cars...and to check paperwork and not let dealers "sneak" Z's out early. One of my personal memories of back then was trying to quickly get in and out of the little 1200 hatchbacks as a 6'1" and 180 lb guy wearing heavy winter clothing in those Chicago winters. The Z's were downright spacious compared to those little 1200s! Biggest regret, not buying a new "demo" Z, for well under dealer invoice. Didn't want to borrow the money. A buddy did, and I lusted after that car for months. Seems to me the price was going to be around $2800, not sure if that included tax and fees.

Personally, I wouldn't buy any car off eBay (or any place on the internet) without actually seeing and driving it in person, first. Most cars look better in the internet pictures than they do in person. That's just the limitations of photos and screen resolutions and such. This particular car's pictures would have been a lot more revealing if taken in the sun and not in the shade. Was that intentional? There was bright sun 20 feet away. And what's with all the parts he has, but haven't been installed? Hmmm... I'd want to see clear pictures of all the bad spots (rust areas, worn seat, cracked dash, etc) mentioned in the description. Usually things are worse than described. Records for all the mechanical work that's claimed-they better be there-before I'm paying much. Looks like the bumpers have some significant dents and the hood is misaligned, and maybe the paint has some fading and other problems My pet peeve on any car internet pictures-those that don't have a VERY clear photo of the highest wear area on most any car-the DRIVER'S SEAT. You don't show me that, as well as you can, you don't get my bid. Having said all that, I'd consider paying $3000 for this car AFTER seeing and driving it in person. P.S. Yes, I put cars on the internet that I sell, but encourage folks to not buy them until after they've actually driven them. eBay is just a place to advertise the cars, to me. Any logical bidder is going to underbid until they can actually drive the car. Most eBay prices reflect that, with some goofball exceptions.

Related question, Anyone used the "color typed" waxes on their car? I see these waxes supposedly designed for use with just red cars or just green cars or just black cars, etc, etc.... Do those waxes actually work to hide or cover up scratches or small front end road grit type paint chips? I'm guessing they just have a litte red or green or black etc pigment in the wax?