bigoak

Parts vs. project would be based on the prevalence of rust (frame rails, floors, battery tray, wheel wells, etc.). Value as a parts car depends where you are and the relative supply available (I assume relative scarcity on the rock...). A decent parts car can be had in the southern US for under $1k. Value would depend on the quality of parts that can be pulled from the vehicle. Some thoughts: 1. Interior parts in great shape seem to command a premium. 2. Engine/transmission are relatively valueless unless high quality recent rebuild or modified (e.g. Weber's). Browse Ebay and check out the parts cars as well the sale price on some parts. The nice thing about getting a parts car cheap is you can fund it by selling off the parts you don't need if you plan it right. Lot of work though... Have fun.

Very detailed. Where did you glean such information?

Optional uses for the buckets at the ball game.. (Note: these were ripped from the Suncoast Z Car Club site without consent...hope I didn't offend anyone)

Is there a link or description of the "club CD project". First I've heard of it.

That looks much, much nicer. But something that should be preserved closer to stock and not total juiced up.

There are other differences to be noted between the different years/iterations of the 240Z. Carl has a good summary on his site: http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm Some major changes aside from the carbs were exhaust, head and big-arse bumper changes (the head changes were material as the later heads had larger volumes and consequently lower compression) which affected performance and, depending on which jurisdiction you live in, you may or may not be able to modify/rectify. I'd also add that beyond just the '69 240Z's, there is a distinct mark-up on Series I vehicles that were produced until January 1971 and the remainder of '71s still trade at a premium to '72s and '73s (you can debate whether this is justified or not). The '73 is still a great looking, great performing vehicle, just not quite as desirable as some of the earlier years. Cheers,

Hi Rick, I can do it. I'm back and forth to the city on a regular basis. Thanks, Mike A.

Will most likely use someone who does the Renu process up where. Don't want to tangle with the border (complete pain in my so far un-bitten buttocks...). Thanks,

Actually I do have respect for you (note my earlier posts...). This was a joke to lighten the mood...hence all the smiley faces... Take a deep breath...have a beer...appreciate the fact that you live in a culture that isn't fully consumed by itself (now that will get a flame war going...). It's a great day...didn't you hear, Paris Hilton is out of jail... (imagine one big giant smiley here...) Cheers,

Next time you're in the shop, let him know I have a '71 that needs a little work (probably about $5k) to truly be excellent that I'll let go for a discounted, friends of classic z car price, of $38,342...a $17k discount on the $60k quoted above...I'll even fix the leaky gas tank before delivery...I must be in a charitable mood today... On top of that...the car actually began it's life in Japan...it must be super-valuable given the contributions of the internationally minded crew here... If anyone runs into that buyer...let me know..

Other things I might look for: 1. Test the engine for compression ($20-$30 tool). Not likely to be a problem as these engines are relatively bullet proof, but you'd hate to find out it needs a ring job post-acquisition. Although compression should be consistent for all cylinders, it will vary depending on what block/head/gasket combinations are on the car (I believe they should be in the range of 130-150 though...anyone have the specific #'s for a 280Z?). 2. I know you said the usual places, but really get under the battery tray and frame rails and have a close look. Mine (on my 240Z) looked pretty good on first inspection but after close-up review needed to be patched. I wish I lived in California...

Yeah, think I'll do just that and take it to a shop. I'm not bad with a wrench in my hand, but welding is outside the scope of competency (certainly with the associated excitement of fuel). Thanks for the insights...this information provided on this site is simply awesome.

If you are using an original Datsun colour, I'm not sure you are being a copycat... Check out this link for a full list of original Datsun colours: http://http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html There are a couple of white ones there. Cheers,

Agreed. Places you would need to check are the battery tray, the doglegs, the hatch deck, the floors and the bottom of the doors (that one's from very personal experience). By the time you get rust like that over the fenders, these spots are usually in dire condition. Even if those are all perfect, you're looking a decent amount of work to fix the rust that is present and it probably doesn't justify the asking price. Where is the car located? Perhaps see if someone on the board can check it out for you. Cheers,

Cool. I'll give it a shot. Truth be told, three days ago (when the odor appeared) was the first time I parked the vehicle with a full tank of gas. I took her out for a good run tonight to try and run the fuel down but will need to go a little further before tackling the tank.

Sooo shinyyyy.... Great work...can't wait to see the finished product.

OK, over the last three days, my garage has been overwhelmed with the smell of fuel. Vehicle is a stock series II 1971 240Z running twin round-tops. This coincided with my changing the fuel filter as my car was hesitating around 3,500 RPM (this went away after the change but seemed to re-appear tonight). I installed new rubber fuel lines on both side of the filter as the originals appeared to be just that (37 years old and very original...). I have checked at the front end around the filter and there are no signs of a leak there. Tonight I crawled under the back end and below are the photo's of what I found: Shot 1: Note the top left portion circled in yellow as there seems to be a split in the seam there. The portion circled in blue is where there was an accumulation of moisture/fluid and I wiped it off (taking with it the "protective" dirt coating). The portion circled in green is where I noted some past damage to the tank (seems to have been bottomed on on something). Shot 2: A close up of the seam. Shot 3: A gratuitous shot with the spot wiped clean. Questions: 1. I assume I have correctly diagnosed the seam split (if not speak up, I'm new to this), if so, is it worth repairing or should I opt for a replacement? 2. Will a 1973 gas tank fit in this vehicle? 3. I have access to a 1973 tank for $150 CAD, reportedly in good condition, fair price? If so, should I have it reconditioned prior to installation? Thoughts, comments, general invective are all welcome... Cheers,

pm sent

Different mechanical configuration too...

Careful...I know some really expensive fine tequila...

You have lost your mind... Cool tat though...

Exactly how I did it earlier this week. Just make sure you have a large enough Philips head. I used a ratchet instead of a screwdriver in order to get ample pressure on the screw and not have the bit slip. Only other things possibly still holding it on are (these are stupid) hatch struts (duh) and defroster connections (double duh...).

Smileys work...you just can't click on em...try spelling them out...like (remove the periods): L.O.L. - :.o. - R.O.F.L. -

Haha

At least review the thread prior to making that comment....it's hard to maintain a Z in the northern tundra...proud Canadian here... Alan and Carl, I cringed at both your postings. Alan, your original comment smacked of condescension, not sure if it was intended or simply a mild mis-step. This is the internet so we can't see your face (I know you used a smiley...but I think tone is what generated 1/2 the reaction). Carl, simply put you overreacted. In this day and age we are importing JDM cars left, right and center. When trying to establish a market value on a vehicle deemed collectible, I believe overseas valuations must have bearing at some point (note that a rusty, unrestored HLS30 hasn't reached that point...). The balance on this one is whether #51 or #305 simply have significance to the North American market or possibly on a global scale. This specific point of reference market was not broached prior to Alan's comment, but nowhere in the thread had the North American market been specifically designated the market (although this might have been implied). Based on the your "snarky" comments, you would seem to be in relative agreement on this: while late '69 cars may have some specific relevance in the North American market, that is diluted or diminished on a worldwide scale. Now both of you go to your rooms. If you can't make nice you won't get any cookies...