bigoak

Yeah, but we only run on nice days up here...

Given that Bruce from Z Therapy is a frequent contributor, you probably won't have too many offering up to infringe on their copyright. Give them a shout, maybe they'll give you a discount because you are a former customer...or go to Wal-Mart and buy a cheapie VHS player...

Hey, missed the thread the first time around...welcome back to the world of Z ownership / the madness....the car looks good... I agree with Jeff, double check the tire / wheel combo before you tear into the suspension as you might be getting mild rub based on offset / tire size. Have fun taking her for a spin and make sure the boys displays appropriate respect... And congratulations on having a caring and understanding wife...all too many of us clearly benefit from our better halves' willingness to indulge our reliving of our youths...

Sounds like your going to be paying that guy to explore...take it away from him and bring it to a "Z" specialist...a Z guy will know what you've got and where to dive in (and what it will cost)... BTW...listened to some of your tunes...the hardcore synth reminds me a little of Skinny Puppy (that's a big compliment, I feel like I grew up listening to Annihilate...)

Check out Zhome.com. It has a very good buyer's guide. Oh yeah...no rust...nothing else matters...

Welcome aboard... As Arne stated, much more info needed. And pic's are a must for a new member. Cheers.

Darrrr.....couldn't hear reason as my knuckles were dragging... Very good. Congrats Mike! A boy to be raised on Japanese tin... My suggestions: - An official Classiczcar letter that dad must review the Boobs thread on a daily basis to conduct infant nutrition research... - Hot official Classiczcar babysitters/nannies (why limit ourselves to just a coupon)... - Official Classiczcar private school vouchers (to ensure little Mike has the refined taste to appreciate a classic Z and not immediately drop an SBC into the poor thing).... - A coupon for a "Z" tattoo... - And last but not least...a coupon to have your baby signed by Mr. K...

Bleh heh.... Too funny... Still don't want to be losing good contributors...

Yeah, if the body is truly without rust, $2.2 is a steal. Go with CB's advice.

One of you two has one hell of a commute...

Makes for some sick Z racing too...

Man, that's a tough call. The counterpoint is that some schlub might offer a lower number which they will take and the Z will fall into poor ownership...and they won't have realized full value...tough call... Great article btw...especially fond of the trophy holder...

Done...and the knock is gone...car is driving the best is has since I bought it 3 years ago...thanks for your help...

True...true...

Welcome aboard. Make liberal use of the search function. A wealth of information is at your fingertips. Pic's are a must...otherwise no cred for you. LOL

I understand that sentiment, but at the end of the day, the car is only $30k. It could just be purchased for enjoyment and you'd likely have no more depreciation than a fully loaded mid-level sedan... (actually, the curve would likely be steeper immediately after the purchase, but would much better of 5-10 years...)

I assume you are running high octane fuel. If you are still getting a knock, you can add octane to avoid and keep the high compression.

They used the 240Z as a project car. Here is a link to the whole project: http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1970-datsun-240z/

Found this on another site. Not sure how accurate, but hey, cheap alternative... Be careful with acetone though, one of my buddies almost blew the chemistry lab back in university... "The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid! Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce None ................. 516 pounds . WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10 The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

Let's see: - Affordable rear wheel drive sports vehicle. - Plenty of mods available (from light to heavy). - Solid racetrack presence. - Iconic looks. - Sold enough units that it's pervasive (and like the Z, will never be that valuable). - Resale is cheap enough that high school kids can afford to pick one up cheap and have some fun. Hate to say it but although we may not love the performance off the dealer's lot, it's the MX-5/Miata. Another once in a generation affordable sports car. Not sure what the next one will be.

All depends on the condition of the body. Completely rust free is what is the key (this may only be a myth...). Mechanicals are an easy fix on these cars, the body is not. I'll let other comment on the specific values of a 260Z (some members have some pretty sweet rides). Check to see if the carbs have been swapped out from the flat top SU's to the dome top SU's. If not, it's almost required.

A quick lesson in why it pays to be nice, helpful and active in your local Z club. Met for a weekly coffee night with some members of the local Z club. Asked if anyone knew a good driveline shop where I could get the half shafts looked after. Another member says "Hey, I just installed a new set that I had chromed and the ones I took off had just been rebuilt. If you need them, they're yours..." Followed him to his place and he wouldn't take a dime...even gave me a vacuum advance and a beer. Life is good. Christmas in May...

Got it. I am getting a cyclical knocking so I think it might be the half shaft. (I'll check the tower as well). There is a lot of slop in that half shaft so it will need to be fixed at any rate. Thanks!

Bobc, that was almost a full sentence...but yes, there is definitely a problem with the U-joints. I put it up on stands yesterday and could see play in one of the joints. Arne, easy to remove the half shafts? I can check the boots. How would I know if the splines are ok? Just visual inspection?

Going through the knock elimination process on the 240Z. I've changed the front mount for the diff and the problem has not been resolved. It looks like one of the U-joints in the left half shaft has some play in it and will need to be adressed. So, a few questions: 1. Should I look into putting new U-joints into my existing half-shafts or should I try and find a decest used set? 2. Other than the play in the U-joint, is there anything else I should look at in the half-shafts to ensure they are viable? 3. Assuming I'm replacing the U-joints, I've searched the board and one consistent piece of advice was to get good quality U-joints. I've seen a few knocks on the GMB brand products, but no mention of which might be a good supplier. 4. On a scale of 1-10 (10 being most difficult), how difficult an operation am I looking at? Thanks,