MikiK

Howdy, not sure if there is already a topic on this (tried search and got a fatal error) but I met the Highland Studio photographers on the 2005 One Lap of America Event and they happend to shoot the 2005 Z Car Convention in August. Here is the link http://www.highlanddesignstudio.com/motorsport/motor-home.html That's all, hope you enjoy them. If you have time check out the pics of the Cannonball Event! :classic: Cheers, Miki K.

If you check blueovalz's (Terry Oxandale's, sorry if I misspelled the last name) website, granted he is not a purist, but he has done it. In addition he has some nice pics showing how he did it. I don't have the link my bookmarks got all deleted. But google it, check hybridz or maybe even around here... Regards, Miki K.

AWC, here's a great site. I would say it has everything you need to know about painting. http://www.lambolounge.com/Body/Paint/paint.asp But to answer your question, once the car is covered with epoxy primer it should protect from rust as good as a paint job. Epoxy primer is non porous, and offeres great protection vs rust. One thing on that site that I find very interesting is that it suggests to leave a little "skin" of the epoxy primer and do the final smoothing with body filler on top of that. Better adhesion. I can see that work out.

I was literally thinking of asking him to give me a call once he media blasts the car. I would come out and use laquer thiner or metal etching to sort of go over the whole car before he epoxy primes it, but it might be too much since media blasting preps the whole surface for primer pretty good. I like the idea of using MEK or Lacquer Thinner to remove the rubber stuff. One more question, after I fix/patch the rust areas and ofcourse remove some of the epoxy primer what is the best way to protect it, can you get epoxy primer in a can so I can spray over it to keep the surface from rusting again?

Wow that car is absolutely gorgeous. Im sitting in my office as I am looking at the pictures and I am scremin out loud in fascination and awe, my accountant is laughing at me sitting right behind me, but i just don't care. Those are MSA flares? Once I get done with the media blast I am going to paint my car the eleanor paint scheme, i think it is called peppery gray with pearl black stripes. That is almost what I want mine to look like. Props up to the guy(s) for doing such a great work

If you had your car media blasted, how much prepp work did you do? What exactly did you do? For example when you remove the windshield you have some of the black tar/sealant residue left over. Should I worry about that before media blasting? From the search I did on the forums I found out that it is better to get the car media blasted and then perform the major rust reparations like replacing the floor pans and patch up the cancer sports. What is your experience on this? How much of rust would the plastic media blasting actually remove? I found a local place that would gladly media blast my car. I talked to the owner and he has agreed to give me a fair deal since I have totally stripped the shell down to nothing. And if I do most of the prep work myself he might give me a better deal. Also he said he would coat the car with epoxy primer once he media blasts it.Epoxy primers are strong and durable so I would not have to worry about surface rust while the car is parked in the garage. But would it mask some of the rust and make it harder for me to find? Any other tips and tricks you guys can share with me regarding media blasting would be cool. Regards, Miki Kologranic

I live in cumming, GA. There is a bodyshop/restoration place here; Flashback Motorsports. They do full body restorations, partial projects and have a full paint shop. They specialize in european vintage cars, Alfa Romeo's, Maseratti, Jaguar,Ferrari, etc... BUT I saw a first gen 300zx sitting in there that caught my attention and that is how I got to talking to those guys. Also a old what appears to be a honda dream motorcycle. If you need further info I have their business card at the office. I would be glad to also get some quote for you, some basic pricing if you are interested since I myself am very curious. Cheers, Miki K

I tried to post a direct link to Home Depot website. It does not work It is the Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 3200HD Wire Feed Welder Model K2190-1 You can visit the website but I will just copy the specs here too. "Lincoln Electric's Weld-Pak 3200HD handles a huge spectrum of flux-cored or MIG welding jobs -- from auto-body repairs to farm fixes to around the home chores. You just can't buy a 120V welder with a more versatile range! The Weld-Pak 3200HD comes ready to weld mild steel with self-shielded flux-cored wire right out of the box. Also included is virtually everything you need to MIG weld mild steel. Just add a cylinder of shielding gas. Rounding out the package is a welding handshield, instructional video and undercarriage. The convenient mild steel procedure chart inside the wire access door guides you to all the appropriate welder settings for the job at hand. The Weld-Pak 3200HD has a 25-135 amp output and welds up to 5/16 inch steel using flux-cored wire. The unit plugs into a 120V (20 amp) outlet. It comes with a 3 year warranty on parts and labor (90 days warranty on gun and cable). Internet ID 166038 Brand Lincoln Electric Manufacturer Lincoln Electric Model # K2190-1 Flux-cored Gas Shielded .025 to .035" Flux-cored Self Shielded Wire Utilized .035 In. Output Polarity 25-135A DC Power Requirement 115/1/60 Rated Output 90/19/20% UPC CODE 015082777320 Welding Capacities Welds up 5/16 in. steel using flux-cored wire. This is going to be my first welder. I searched and looked around and I agree with most people when they say that a welder is a good investment. You can fix things around the house but most importantly I can fix things on my Z. I think it is a good choice, but what do you think? The picture on the website shows a full kit: helmet, gas hookup kit, etc... Thanks Miki Kologranic

Quick Update. I managed to drop the diff case and cut off the bolt. Removed the drivetrain and engine today. Did all of the work myself but had my dad help me with the engine removal. He was directing the engine while I lifted it. Over all a good weekend. Let the Body/chassis cleanup begin! Also Thanks for all your help guys... Regards M.K.

Yes, the bolt is insterted from the engine side to the differential side. Sorry I know it sounds weird to mention that but the previous owner of this car did very weird things to the Z so I am questioning everything three times before I touch it... I removed the swaybar;which made life easier, and I was able to get to the bolts and rotate them about 10-15 degrees with a 14mm open end wrench. I managed to get 3 of them off and I stripped one of them...fun... Any Suggestions on the 4th bolt? I tried heating it, soaking it in PB Blast and WD. What about disconnecting the shaft at the U - Joint? I am pulling out the engine and tranny to work on the body and get all the rust off. I am done for today, so im just freely brainstorming about ideas....suggestions appreciated... Thanks M.K.

Im trying to remove the propeller shaft on my 78 280. I got a little bit confused once I was getting ready to disconnect the shaft from the companion flange. Now, I have both the Chiltons Manual and the Factory Service manual and they both just say to "remove the four bolts from the companion flange" It looks very hard to get to them. The bolt with the tapered head is pointing to the rear and the differential carrier is in the way of getting to the bolts easy. Am I missing something here? Any Help would be kindly appreciated, since I am trying to move on with this project tonight. Regards M.K.

Thanks for the advice Gary, that is why I am asking. I bought the car of a co worker of mine, he had the car sitting for year and half not driven at all. He gave me a figure and I took the offer. According to him the engine has been rebuild 30K miles ago. One of the cylinder sleeves replaced and standard things like seals... Put synthetic oil in it, and the car has been lowered an inch front and rear. He was not able to give me any details, says he does not remember it. I have not cranked nor turned it over for two reasons, no ecu, and the fuel tank was rusty. LIke I said I probably will be dropping in a 350 sbc so whatever I can part out I will. Besides that, rusty passenger floor pan and under the battery tray and a small ding on the door, cracked dash (had a dash cap on it) I have saved most instruments from the interior like the tach, speedo, and other gauges...still have the dash don't think I will put it back... Steve I would be glad to meet up and you can take a look at it. I will be saving the driveline. Later Miki Kologranic

As the title says, Im building a 1978 - 280z with the intentions of a 350 SBC swap (I know not what the purists want to hear ) but as I take the car apart, im trying to figure out what is worth saving (interior pieces, A/C inside trim...exterior, etc) and selling it. You guys know so I thought I ask. Thanks, Miki Kologranic PS: And if you need ask me, if I have it make offer

:classic: Thank you Rob.

Is there a One Piece Fiberglass (Carbon???) Frontend for a 78 280z? Or what is the closest I can get to one. i.e. two piece, three piece... Anyone attempted to make their own? Thanks.. M.K.