er34gtt2000jp

I should have been more specific, my car has the later Series 1 dash with the indentation for the hazard switch label and the blank spot for the fog lamp switch. I believe it should have the dash without the label indentation but with the blank spot, as it is an early 70' model. Anyone can step in and correct me if I am wrong, please.

Thanks for all the replies! I got the hatch open tonight by removing the hatch panel and pressing the latch down. I then pulled the lock out so I can take it and get a key made for it and the ignition. Under the deck lid I found nice paint, no rust decent aftermarket carpet (72/73 style) and complete luggage straps. The spare tire well is fresh and shiny and I even got the spare tire hold down and a decent cover board. I am stoked! The seat belts are complete and correct and just need to be cleaned up it looks like and the console is not broken from the looks. Now if I could only find a complete Series I dash. I also got the gauges working tonight (missing fuse). I don't think the clock works though (go figure right!). Thinking of pulling the brakes apart this weekend to see what is the matter there so I can try to get it on the road.

Just a little update, My production date is 3/70 and my vin is 2562. According to the Z register there is a guy in Arizona that has 2563!

Already tried the fresh new key from my 77' parts car, no joy. I think the keys are different, the 70' has a one-sided key it looks like. I will try to squeeze back there and pull the panel. The seats don’t fold forward and I am a pretty big guy so it is going to be a challenge. Thanks for the advice.

On a side note, anyone know how to get the hatch open without a key?

Ok, I made it back home in one piece. No where near the trip that I took to New Mexico to get me 73' but it was a good hour drive there. The car needs help, but overall it is really solid! I didn't get any keys with it and the ignition had been removed so the car could be moved. So when I got home I pulled the dead battery and swiped the ignition switch from my 77' parts car, hooked it up and.....IT RUNS!!! Really good too! Sounds great and doesn't smoke. Revs really quickly and has a throaty burbley tone to the exhaust. Now the clutch doesn't work and the brakes are gone but it runs well! As for originality and completeness, it is OK......has Series II dash and gauges that don't work. Everything else seems to be original Series I, right down to the aircraft style seat belt buckles and round chrome coat hanger, seat too. Engine SN matches the data plate under the hood but it does have a 5 speed installed vice the original 4 speed. Original color was a yellow-green color. I guess it was gold, I will check the paint code later again. Couldn't really make it out before. Well here are a few pics, sorry for the poor quality. I had already put her to bed in the garage when I took them. I think with a few $$ put into here she will be back on the road in no time. I will sport her around town even with the munched fender!

Going to buy a numbers matching Series I build date 3/70 today. Pretty complete with minimal rust, $700.00. It needs the drivers front fender replaced and a little work on the frame where the bumper bolts in but it looks to be pretty solid. One small hole in passengers floor pan at the rear of frame rail, and the drivers wheel arch looks to be full of bondo. Overall it is in decent shape, I hope to be able to drive it for a while before I start work on my 73’. I will post some pics tonight when I get home.

Sorry guys I was just kidding, I know my 73' is rough and needs lots of work. I started this thread because I was not sure if I had the right speedo, not that it is going to be registering anything anytime soon though. I found it interesting that Nissan decided to put so many different speedos in the different years, or series Z's I should say. Even the 280z got a speedo change or maybe two because my 75' has different lettering than my 78' parts car!

Now come on man, I know its rough but sheesh. Outa the blue he just starts flamin my ride! I can't help it that my car was left to die out in the New Mexico desert and then sideswipped by some oki-hick in a wercker tryin to make off with another car.

Yeah, That is the "fiber optical" light for the cig lighter. I know the early 280z had one, not sure about the 240 though.

Hey there, I have one of the Harbor Freight parts washers and it is OK. The pump works good but the switch that turned the pump on broke so I have to wire up a new switch. As for aqueous parts cleaners I used a product called Oil Eater. I bought a 5 gallon bucket from Kragen auto Parts for like $35. Here is the link to the online shop. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3227&mfrcode=KAF&mfrpartnumber=35438 This stuff works great, but be warned that it will corrode aluminum if left for long periods of time. (I left my pistons in it for about 6 hours and they came out perfect but I left my intake manifold in for 3 days and it started to corrode it) Just be careful and don’t leave alum. parts in to soak for days on end.

I'd call it a POS.

Anybody else notice the incorect steering wheel for the year? If I am not mistaken that is an early series 1 wheel.

This car would be a good parts car but it is pretty rusty, interior is shot but fairly complete as well as the engine. I would have bought it but they did not have the title and I din;t have room for two cars. My avatar shows the car I bought from them 20 in. after we left their property. I will be posting my progress on it here as soon as I get started. Here are the photos after I cleaned it up a but and a couple of my 75 2+2. http://photobucket.com/albums/f285/er34gtt2000jp/

Well I am still in that oh so happy I just bought a 240Z, stand in the garage and stare at it stage but I think I have a little problem. The car had been hit in the passengers front fender and it bent up the inner fender a bit in the front. I thought that was all it did but after pulling off the fender and assessing the situation it looks like the frame got bent a bit. What do you guys think? Aside from the rust it looks like the frame is kinked right above the TC rod mount. The drivers side is straight as an arrow but this side has a noticeable kink. I am planning to take the car to a media blasters and have it stripped, do you think I should have take it to the body shop first and have it but on the frame rack? I don't want to fix the rust in the frame rail and then take it to the body shop as I think the repair work would get messed up by pulling the frame back into place.

I looked at that one too but they told me that it did not have a title. A shame too because it is not that bad, rusty but pretty complete.

Well to everyone who was watching this thread. DO NOT BUY THE BROWN CAR! It has been totaled and very poorly repaired and someone ripped the lower radiator support out with a chain. I was able to finagle another car that happened to be the best deal on the property so my trip was not in vain.

I am pretty sure it was September. I will have to pull up my old Japanese de-registration cert and check again. I sold the car almost 3 years ago so I could be wrong.

Hey guys, 6/73 HLS30-164890 Just rescued from the New Mexico desert and transplanted to Sacramento California! I also have 2/75 GHLS30-002278 this was my first Z. As a side note, how many of you recognize what this S/N is from? MFG Date 9/89 BNR32-0003066

My spedo looks lie the one Arne posted in the for the 1973 on ebay. Thanks for the help! I was worried that I had the wrong spedo.

I just bought a 73 240Z and have doubts as to if it has the original (or correct) speedometer in it. What years came with the speedo that starts at 10MPH? Thanks

Thanks for the info. I wilkl be sure not to weld them up then!

Anybody know if the 73' 240Z is supposed to have a hole in the rear quarter panel in the center of the bumper indentation? The bumper indentations were Bondoed over on my car and after 30 seconds with a screw driver I was left with this. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/big_daddy_nismo_4x4/detail?.dir=/df68&.dnm=adf3scd.jpg Both left and right sides are the same. I am guessing that the 73' bumper has an attachment point there?

Well I averaged 14.2 MPG there and 13.5 MPG back and it was just over 2300 miles round trip. I have to say the 2k5 Frontier did well pulling 4500lbs throught the mountains. I was able to run up the hills in 3rd gear at 75-85 MPH. Flatland towing was even better, I saw 15.3 MPG on one strech up I-99 here in Cali on the way home. But if I pushed her hard, like 80+ the mileage dropped to like 9 in the hills!