er34gtt2000jp

I'll be there!

Fastest run to date 11.52 @ 118 mph in the 1320 Normally runs 11.60-70's but it's still FAST! Just doesn't corner very well anymore...... <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/c_0ZSsvOVZOkEV_SeduplNFPVdjbv7PehiuOwVDqPi4?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_GWO4toY6mF8/TJ7GjZwGTII/AAAAAAAABNc/fI6Z8tzivqo/s640/IMG00030.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/eric.harrald/Pictures?authkey=Gv1sRgCOXL09C_t67NKQ&feat=embedwebsite">pictures</a></td></tr></table>

Hey man, what are we talking about for rent?

I'll be there guys! Sorry I missed last month. I'll try to bring some photos of my bracket car with he 302 this time.

See you guys there!

Man she sure does have the right badge! "HOT" :laugh:

Hey guys! I will swing by, won't be able to bring either of my Z's but I'll brings some photos. Eric

Use dry ice! Go down to the grocery store and buy a couple blocks of dry ice. Break them up with a hammer and spread the chunks around on the tar mat and let it sit for a while. Come back after you have a beer or two when most of the dry ice has disappeared and hit the tar mat with a hammer a few times. It breaks up like peanut brittle. This is way easier than any other method and is almost no mess! What little remanence that remain on the floor boards will clean up with lacquer thinner with ease.

Just wondering if you ever got your frame repair done.

Have you guys seen this? http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r45767262 I wish these were sold here stateside, maybe Kats can get us a deal?

Has there been a date set for October yet?

I set mine to 2:40.......

Saw this on ebay today. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-Voltage-Regulator-Plastic-Cover-OEM-Rare_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33577QQihZ020QQitemZ300142846055QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I have never seen on that was not all yellow and cracked!

I second that! I wish the rails on my 1970 were that nice! You could get one of those weld on stud dent pullers and pull them back into better shape. That would be better than drilling holes if you really want to fix them. If it really bothers you.

Sorry but how is he supposed to do that when the starter bolts into the trans?:stupid:

A lot of that second video can be seen if you play Project Gotham Racing II. It was like a cool flash back only in real life rather than CG.

That connector should hook up to the engine sub harness. There is usually a round bracket the bolts to the engine mount that the sub harness side of the connecter is held in. This harness has the oil pressure sending unit wire, and goes back to the transmission for the backup and neutral switches. Some later 280z's had a top gear switch as well. It may also have some wires to the alternator but I can’t remember off the top of my head.

It is sitting in my garage on the floor. I think you live over by me, I live off Calvine past Vineyard.

Hey guys, I have one of those in urathane. I was planning on putting it on my series one car because my vallance is toast.

You have a PM.

Thanks for the pics, My car has the long pig tail fuse box, but the dash was replaced with a later one and the person that did it did not route the harness correctly. I finally got it back together but it is not right. Wires just kinda stuffed behind heater panel for now. I was able to drive the car for the first time tonight, what a blast! It still has a lot of bugs to sort out though. Amp meter runs about +30 amps all the time for some reason. Could be the battery is a little low as it has been sitting for over a year. I am planning to put a new dash in it and will re-do the wiring then along with a new fuse box I think. I still could not figure out where the darn rear defroster plugged into. The blue wire with the fuse holder ended up being the blower power source. I do have a red/blue stripe wire with a spade connector and a solid red wire with a spade connector but they both are +12 volts hot. At least it is summer time, I don't have to drive the car every day. Good thing too because the heater is stuck on full hot!!! :eek: Gotta fix that before I try to drive it any distance.

Thanks for the replies guys! The problem I have is some wack job replaced the dash and the harnesses are not in their original locations, and nothing is hooked up. I have the blue wire with he fuse holder but it has a bullet connector on it and my defroster switch has spade connectors. I am going to go back out tonight an fiddle with it some more. Any photos of original series one center dash wiring would be great. also the location of the cloth cover and what is under it would be GREAT! as I do not have the cover. Thanks again. Eric

I am having a heck of a time getting my fuse box and center dash wiring sorted, does anyone have a photo of where the Series 1 fuse box wiring harness is routed, and also where the defroster switch plugs into on the harness. My car is a 3 of 70 production. Thanks, Eric

I just used CLR on the clutch hose retainer and clip on my series 1, they were all nasty and rusted. Completely covered inside and out in rust. It took the rust right off!!!!!! It was like the rust was paint and the CLR was paint stripper. The rust lifted off the parts in chunks and sheets and left the metal clean and slightly pitted where the rust was really bad. The retaining clip (spring steel "U" shaped clip) was actually blackened by the CLR. Had to scrub the black stuff off with dish soap and a tooth brush. It took about 24hrs for the CLR to really work, when i got home from work the clip was fizzing in the CLR so I figured it was time to take it out.