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I have an early 1970 Series 1 car so I purchased a 1970 service manual. Nice book, original printing from 1969 or 1970. But in the electrical section it does not mention the rear defroster at all. Even the wiring diagram does not show the defroster or switch. Here is a scan of the service manual the areas circled in red are where the defroster should be, I have a service bulletin from May 1970 that has a wiring diagram in it that shows the defroster but the service manual does not. Go figure!

Hey guys and gals and all those in between! Happy 4th of July. I would like everyone to take a moment to think about the men an women we have serving overseas this 4th and those who have lost their lives defending what we so gallantly fought for 230 years ago. Having spent many a Holiday overseas serving our county I know it is important to know those back home are thinking about you. I hope you all enjoy today and have a safe and fun 4th of July! Eric

My harnesses are those P/Ns but they have 6 70 printed on them as well. I am guessing that this is the mfg date. My car has a 71 dash in it (hazard label indent but no cut out for cig lighter) and it would appear that the harness is also incorrect for the year of my car. I am trying to sort out the fuse box and under dash wiring as it is a bit of a mess. Anybody know when the illuminated defogger switch came into production for the series 1 cars? I am having problems tracking down the connections for my early style non-illuminated switch. I suspect that my harness has the illuminated switch connector rather that the two spade connectors for the the early switch.

Can anyone of my fellow early series 1 owners look at their dash wiring harness part numbers (the ones by the glove box). My car has a 3/70 build date. I did a search and found the P/N for late 70-71 I just want to verify the early 70 P/N. Thank a bunch. Eric

Well there goes that theory! Thanks man.

I am starting to wonder if my car is not an import from Canada, the dash was changed out like in the 90's and the numbers matching engine does not have a vapor recovery nipple on the crankcase breather. The filler neck has only the one "t" fitting on the big vent line that goes down through the inner fender. A little off topic....but does anyone know if the Canada cars had Km/H speedos? That would explain the incorrect interments in my car/ Thanks, Eric

Hey guys, I have #2562 and it appears to have come from the factory with no evap tank. The fuel tank has no vents and the hard line that goes to the engine compartment for vapor recovery is not there either.

Now that I look at it, it looks like the left one without the tape.

Just a little update on my new project. Finally got the time to do a little work on the Z! :laugh: Well time was not kind to my brakes, so I am rebuilding them from the master cyl. to the real wheel cyl. The clutch was inop as well so I pulled the clutch MC to find it full of corrosion and gunk, so a rebuild for it and the slave as well as a new hose. Here are a few pics of the car as it sits now in the garage. One of interest is the shot of the exhaust, anybody seen this setup before? It has another glass pack where the pre-muffler was and is all welded, no clamps. Looks to be an aftermarket system. Sounds pretty BA! Can't wait to get it out on the road and open her up to hear it.

I just went out and took a second look at my console finisher plate and noticed that my throttle slot is only 3/4 as long as the choke slot. Anybody seen one like this before? Build date of my car is 3/70 but i cannot verify if the finisher is original to the car. Eric

Let me rephrase, be wary of international sales. I would be hesitant to sell anything to someone in any country outside where I currently resided without some form of tangible payment like international money order. PayPal will almost always side with the buyer and in my friends situation he sent the item from a military post office. No tracking on international shipments once it leaves the US border. He got screwed and took it in the shorts. I certainly did not mean to insinuate that all Canadians were dirt bags, lord know we have our fare share of dirt bags here in the US. But I still wouldn't use PayPal for payment from an international buyer unless I know them well. Please pardon my judicious use of the extraordinarily wide brush in my previous post.

My buddy got scammed by a guy in Canada last year. He was selling some parts on an RX7 forum and sold a $1500 set of coil-overs to a guy in Canada. The guy claimed he never got them and got a refund from PayPal. Lesson is NEVER SELL TO ANYONE IN CANADA. Unless you personally know them of course.

Sweet! Nice find, let us know how it turns out when you get into it. Eric

Went to DMV today and registered the Z today! $180.00! :mad: in back fees from the PO. Now if I could only get the time to work on it to get it road worthy. Well I will try to get some work in on it this weekend and take some more pics. Eric

Hey guys, I just picked up a 3/70 production car with vin of HLS30-02562. Gonna make it my driver and work on freshening it up as I go.

I looks to be aluminum, that would explain the thickness. Aluminum exhaust pipes need to be thicker to withstand the prolonged exposure to high heat without cracking.

Thanks man! I never thought of that, aside from the indent the dashes are the same. I will look into it when the time comes. I am really happy with the overall condition of the car and for $700.00 I couln't pass it up. Thank god for Craigs List! Well I am off to work, thank again for the replies. Eric

I should have been more specific, my car has the later Series 1 dash with the indentation for the hazard switch label and the blank spot for the fog lamp switch. I believe it should have the dash without the label indentation but with the blank spot, as it is an early 70' model. Anyone can step in and correct me if I am wrong, please.

Thanks for all the replies! I got the hatch open tonight by removing the hatch panel and pressing the latch down. I then pulled the lock out so I can take it and get a key made for it and the ignition. Under the deck lid I found nice paint, no rust decent aftermarket carpet (72/73 style) and complete luggage straps. The spare tire well is fresh and shiny and I even got the spare tire hold down and a decent cover board. I am stoked! The seat belts are complete and correct and just need to be cleaned up it looks like and the console is not broken from the looks. Now if I could only find a complete Series I dash. I also got the gauges working tonight (missing fuse). I don't think the clock works though (go figure right!). Thinking of pulling the brakes apart this weekend to see what is the matter there so I can try to get it on the road.

Just a little update, My production date is 3/70 and my vin is 2562. According to the Z register there is a guy in Arizona that has 2563!

Already tried the fresh new key from my 77' parts car, no joy. I think the keys are different, the 70' has a one-sided key it looks like. I will try to squeeze back there and pull the panel. The seats don’t fold forward and I am a pretty big guy so it is going to be a challenge. Thanks for the advice.

On a side note, anyone know how to get the hatch open without a key?

Ok, I made it back home in one piece. No where near the trip that I took to New Mexico to get me 73' but it was a good hour drive there. The car needs help, but overall it is really solid! I didn't get any keys with it and the ignition had been removed so the car could be moved. So when I got home I pulled the dead battery and swiped the ignition switch from my 77' parts car, hooked it up and.....IT RUNS!!! Really good too! Sounds great and doesn't smoke. Revs really quickly and has a throaty burbley tone to the exhaust. Now the clutch doesn't work and the brakes are gone but it runs well! As for originality and completeness, it is OK......has Series II dash and gauges that don't work. Everything else seems to be original Series I, right down to the aircraft style seat belt buckles and round chrome coat hanger, seat too. Engine SN matches the data plate under the hood but it does have a 5 speed installed vice the original 4 speed. Original color was a yellow-green color. I guess it was gold, I will check the paint code later again. Couldn't really make it out before. Well here are a few pics, sorry for the poor quality. I had already put her to bed in the garage when I took them. I think with a few $$ put into here she will be back on the road in no time. I will sport her around town even with the munched fender!

Going to buy a numbers matching Series I build date 3/70 today. Pretty complete with minimal rust, $700.00. It needs the drivers front fender replaced and a little work on the frame where the bumper bolts in but it looks to be pretty solid. One small hole in passengers floor pan at the rear of frame rail, and the drivers wheel arch looks to be full of bondo. Overall it is in decent shape, I hope to be able to drive it for a while before I start work on my 73’. I will post some pics tonight when I get home.

Sorry guys I was just kidding, I know my 73' is rough and needs lots of work. I started this thread because I was not sure if I had the right speedo, not that it is going to be registering anything anytime soon though. I found it interesting that Nissan decided to put so many different speedos in the different years, or series Z's I should say. Even the 280z got a speedo change or maybe two because my 75' has different lettering than my 78' parts car!