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That connector should hook up to the engine sub harness. There is usually a round bracket the bolts to the engine mount that the sub harness side of the connecter is held in. This harness has the oil pressure sending unit wire, and goes back to the transmission for the backup and neutral switches. Some later 280z's had a top gear switch as well. It may also have some wires to the alternator but I can’t remember off the top of my head.

It is sitting in my garage on the floor. I think you live over by me, I live off Calvine past Vineyard.

Hey guys, I have one of those in urathane. I was planning on putting it on my series one car because my vallance is toast.

You have a PM.

Thanks for the pics, My car has the long pig tail fuse box, but the dash was replaced with a later one and the person that did it did not route the harness correctly. I finally got it back together but it is not right. Wires just kinda stuffed behind heater panel for now. I was able to drive the car for the first time tonight, what a blast! It still has a lot of bugs to sort out though. Amp meter runs about +30 amps all the time for some reason. Could be the battery is a little low as it has been sitting for over a year. I am planning to put a new dash in it and will re-do the wiring then along with a new fuse box I think. I still could not figure out where the darn rear defroster plugged into. The blue wire with the fuse holder ended up being the blower power source. I do have a red/blue stripe wire with a spade connector and a solid red wire with a spade connector but they both are +12 volts hot. At least it is summer time, I don't have to drive the car every day. Good thing too because the heater is stuck on full hot!!! :eek: Gotta fix that before I try to drive it any distance.

Thanks for the replies guys! The problem I have is some wack job replaced the dash and the harnesses are not in their original locations, and nothing is hooked up. I have the blue wire with he fuse holder but it has a bullet connector on it and my defroster switch has spade connectors. I am going to go back out tonight an fiddle with it some more. Any photos of original series one center dash wiring would be great. also the location of the cloth cover and what is under it would be GREAT! as I do not have the cover. Thanks again. Eric

I am having a heck of a time getting my fuse box and center dash wiring sorted, does anyone have a photo of where the Series 1 fuse box wiring harness is routed, and also where the defroster switch plugs into on the harness. My car is a 3 of 70 production. Thanks, Eric

I just used CLR on the clutch hose retainer and clip on my series 1, they were all nasty and rusted. Completely covered inside and out in rust. It took the rust right off!!!!!! It was like the rust was paint and the CLR was paint stripper. The rust lifted off the parts in chunks and sheets and left the metal clean and slightly pitted where the rust was really bad. The retaining clip (spring steel "U" shaped clip) was actually blackened by the CLR. Had to scrub the black stuff off with dish soap and a tooth brush. It took about 24hrs for the CLR to really work, when i got home from work the clip was fizzing in the CLR so I figured it was time to take it out.

I have an early 1970 Series 1 car so I purchased a 1970 service manual. Nice book, original printing from 1969 or 1970. But in the electrical section it does not mention the rear defroster at all. Even the wiring diagram does not show the defroster or switch. Here is a scan of the service manual the areas circled in red are where the defroster should be, I have a service bulletin from May 1970 that has a wiring diagram in it that shows the defroster but the service manual does not. Go figure!

Hey guys and gals and all those in between! Happy 4th of July. I would like everyone to take a moment to think about the men an women we have serving overseas this 4th and those who have lost their lives defending what we so gallantly fought for 230 years ago. Having spent many a Holiday overseas serving our county I know it is important to know those back home are thinking about you. I hope you all enjoy today and have a safe and fun 4th of July! Eric

My harnesses are those P/Ns but they have 6 70 printed on them as well. I am guessing that this is the mfg date. My car has a 71 dash in it (hazard label indent but no cut out for cig lighter) and it would appear that the harness is also incorrect for the year of my car. I am trying to sort out the fuse box and under dash wiring as it is a bit of a mess. Anybody know when the illuminated defogger switch came into production for the series 1 cars? I am having problems tracking down the connections for my early style non-illuminated switch. I suspect that my harness has the illuminated switch connector rather that the two spade connectors for the the early switch.

Can anyone of my fellow early series 1 owners look at their dash wiring harness part numbers (the ones by the glove box). My car has a 3/70 build date. I did a search and found the P/N for late 70-71 I just want to verify the early 70 P/N. Thank a bunch. Eric

Well there goes that theory! Thanks man.

I am starting to wonder if my car is not an import from Canada, the dash was changed out like in the 90's and the numbers matching engine does not have a vapor recovery nipple on the crankcase breather. The filler neck has only the one "t" fitting on the big vent line that goes down through the inner fender. A little off topic....but does anyone know if the Canada cars had Km/H speedos? That would explain the incorrect interments in my car/ Thanks, Eric

Hey guys, I have #2562 and it appears to have come from the factory with no evap tank. The fuel tank has no vents and the hard line that goes to the engine compartment for vapor recovery is not there either.

Now that I look at it, it looks like the left one without the tape.

Just a little update on my new project. Finally got the time to do a little work on the Z! :laugh: Well time was not kind to my brakes, so I am rebuilding them from the master cyl. to the real wheel cyl. The clutch was inop as well so I pulled the clutch MC to find it full of corrosion and gunk, so a rebuild for it and the slave as well as a new hose. Here are a few pics of the car as it sits now in the garage. One of interest is the shot of the exhaust, anybody seen this setup before? It has another glass pack where the pre-muffler was and is all welded, no clamps. Looks to be an aftermarket system. Sounds pretty BA! Can't wait to get it out on the road and open her up to hear it.

I just went out and took a second look at my console finisher plate and noticed that my throttle slot is only 3/4 as long as the choke slot. Anybody seen one like this before? Build date of my car is 3/70 but i cannot verify if the finisher is original to the car. Eric

Let me rephrase, be wary of international sales. I would be hesitant to sell anything to someone in any country outside where I currently resided without some form of tangible payment like international money order. PayPal will almost always side with the buyer and in my friends situation he sent the item from a military post office. No tracking on international shipments once it leaves the US border. He got screwed and took it in the shorts. I certainly did not mean to insinuate that all Canadians were dirt bags, lord know we have our fare share of dirt bags here in the US. But I still wouldn't use PayPal for payment from an international buyer unless I know them well. Please pardon my judicious use of the extraordinarily wide brush in my previous post.

My buddy got scammed by a guy in Canada last year. He was selling some parts on an RX7 forum and sold a $1500 set of coil-overs to a guy in Canada. The guy claimed he never got them and got a refund from PayPal. Lesson is NEVER SELL TO ANYONE IN CANADA. Unless you personally know them of course.

Sweet! Nice find, let us know how it turns out when you get into it. Eric

Went to DMV today and registered the Z today! $180.00! :mad: in back fees from the PO. Now if I could only get the time to work on it to get it road worthy. Well I will try to get some work in on it this weekend and take some more pics. Eric

Hey guys, I just picked up a 3/70 production car with vin of HLS30-02562. Gonna make it my driver and work on freshening it up as I go.

I looks to be aluminum, that would explain the thickness. Aluminum exhaust pipes need to be thicker to withstand the prolonged exposure to high heat without cracking.

Thanks man! I never thought of that, aside from the indent the dashes are the same. I will look into it when the time comes. I am really happy with the overall condition of the car and for $700.00 I couln't pass it up. Thank god for Craigs List! Well I am off to work, thank again for the replies. Eric