plutovitch

I have the Skillard grill in my 260z. The original grill had corroded, some of the louvers were missing so I took it off and ended up using wire mesh for years Last year I found the Skillard website, saw their grill and ordered it. Very well made product , and fits perfectly. The bars (from memory, no longer have original) are slightly larger but that gives it more strength and rigidity Owner was easy to deal with, communicated well and promptly cheers

Hey mototman7, when you say 'the seat rails attach nicely to the Z sheet metal' have you bolted the rails directly to the floor? (ie. removed the existing incar seat mounting points) I have the same seats but @ 6' my head is just below the roof. Would like to lower them as much as possible cheers ps. good looking car

Nope! The seal just tore, leaving the bulk of the seal behind.........

....its stuck! Ive torn the original seal trying to remove it & no amount of prying, pulling or cussin' works! :tapemouth The Haynes manual suggests removing the entire rear transmission housing but before I go down that path, does anyone have any suggestions or past experience to go by?

I've been following a thread over on HybridZ on replacement door panels http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105320&page=7 (scroll down to the bottom for pics) The big problem is that UPS want $235 (USD) to ship to OZ, but if we can get a few people interested and share the shipping costs it makes it a whole lot cheaper! Anyone interested?

David, Im in awe!! Perfect solution to an otherwise expensive option of buying new door panels (AUS$300ea.!!). To form the compound curves you laid the pvc sheet over the door, heated and applied pressure to form the curves? Great Job!!

Very clean under your car! Have you checked that the noise isnt that the dust shield is bent and making contact with the rotor when hub nut is tightened? Happened to me....

So what grade is everyone here using for engine oil? Our oil suppliers here(shell, mobile, caltex, castrol etc) are all recommending 20w-50 for a '75 260z If Im in Sydney, average temp range 7*C (44F) - 40*C (104F) 5,000 Kms on a recently rebuilt stock engine (weekend street + a few 1000+Km trips now and then) could I go lighter or should I stay with the 20w-50? I notice a lot of our overseas collegues use a lighter oil 10w-30 (for example), though their temperatures are probably cooler than ours

Good question Widgett, Im in the market for a set of tyres to go with my new Konig Rewings (15 x 7) and was leaning towards the 225/50s. My local Jax (tyres) dealer was horrified that I was thinking of putting 225s on. His opion was that I would have tracking problems with the car, where the steering would tend to follow the surface of the road (pretty rough around here) and recommended the 205/60s. My other concern with the 225s would be low speed turning, Im running 195/65hr14s currently and parking takes some effort, another 30mm on the width cant help. Anyone had issues with the 225s? Purely street, no track

Makes sense!! Thanks mate!

Hi Guys, hoping someone could tell me the difference between a 'long' and a 'short' engine. thanks

FFP cant give you a definite answer on that...seem to remember reading on a previous post that there is a height difference between 240z and 74.5 + 260z rear struts (from perch to top of strut) but then the later 260z had a taller strut top insulator , so if you used the 240z type would the height be the same???? Cant give you a definite answer You're in Oz, so give Warren at All Z Parts a call (02)9476-0966, if he cant answer that, no one can Cheers

Mid '75 and later 260z had 55mm dia. struts. I could be wrong, but I think all 240z had the 51mm strut.

Hmmmm the silence was deafening! Has any other 260z owners, replaced the original rear strut top with the slimmer front type and did that cause any suspension/ride height problems for you? Thanks

Strut top insulators for the rear of a 75 260z? These are 20mm (3/4 inch) taller than the front insulators. Thought I had found them via courtesy nissan, they quoted me $43 for the front and $68 for the rears (each), confirmed that, yes the rears are taller than the front...... So I order 2 front + 2 rears and end up with 4 front insulators! (54320-E4100). Call c/nissan back and am told, that sorry, thats all nissan makes now?....So why the different price??? Still waiting to hear back on that one. Has anyone sourced the rears? Do you have the part #? Thanks

Hi deadflo, sounds like exactly the same noise that was annoying me for ages, I had a walnut shifter knob, the threaded nut inside the knob was loose and it was the vibration that was causing the noise. Easily fixed, new knob! Worth a try....

Hi Guys, Im looking at replacing my original strut mounting insulators (front and rear '75 260) The (original) rear insulators are about 25mm taller than the fronts, MSA sells stock replacements for these, but Im wondering about their adjustable camber insulators for the front? Anyone had any experience with these? They lower the car by about 20mm and are made from polyurethane. Would the ride be harsher / noisier? + if the rear insulators are stock and 25mm taller, and the fronts are another 20mm lower, this gives me a difference in ride height of 45mm.... Might be better sticking with stock replacements! Any ideas?

Well, if Im pulling the suspension apart anyhow I might as well reset the link, I,ll work out correct spacing from diagrams/pictures. I notice a vague feeling in the steering above 110, feels very light, this might help! Looks like Im replacing my header gasket as well next weekend, went over a nasty driveway last night and heard/felt the exhaust grind ,today driving back from Lake Maquarie she was very loud with no power down low, Got home, opened the hood and looked at the blow marks around the header gasket. Will it ever end?

Hi guys, I've replaced the original rubber bushings for my front transverse link with Noltec type bushings, the new Noltecs are self assembled, (you insert metal sleeve inside the bushing) Looking at diagrams in the service manual, the bushing is offset (should be closer to the front of car than the rear) My problem is, I've installed 'em so the bushings are in the middle of the link bolt (no offset). In two weeks time I plan to jack the car up and replace the springs, while Im at it, should I reset the link bushings? Or is it no big deal?? cheers

Best way is to pull the tank out , take it to a radiator repair shop and have them flush / boil it out for you. PIA but its the only way to be sure. Mine was the same, rust + crap in a thick sludge, not a big job for the radiator shop...$70?? I think. Ask them to pressure test it as well, see if there are any pinholes good luck

Opinions vary, b. in law was running kings on his sti and says theyre way too stiff for street. I,ve been offered a set of Eibachs progressive rate for $250 so I'll probably go that way. Upgraded the shocks a few years ago to Konis, adjustable at front (86-1811), fixed sport at rear (8641-1060), just looked up the invoice and I paid $214 for the front and $ 258 rear. Dont know about that price for the coilovers @ $450 / corner, seems pricey?

Its most probably in the hazard switch itself. Unplug it and take it out, if you pull it to pieces (carefully) from memory you'll see 6? (maybe 8) contacts inside. Clean off any corrosion and spray the contacts with WD40 or similar. Hmm then make sure that the wiring harness plug is making proper contact when you plug it in. Good luck

Hi guys, almost time to replace the springs on my 260, and I seem to have two main choices, either king springs or lovells. Both retail about $250ish (front and rear) Which would you choose? Chris

Hiya Perry, weird! thats just what i did today, I bought the rubber and epoxied them to the metal trims, left it for about a week (used 24hr, 2 part epoxy [araldite] I also used bits of tape to hold it all in place while the epoxy set) Looks good, though theres a bit of a gap in one spot, where the rubber doesnt sit hard down on the metal, be careful when you trim the new rubbers to suit the doors, I cut one a little short so now I have a gap beside the window frame (taped a small piece in place to cover the hole) Heaps cheaper than buying the new setup + I powdered coated my door trims satin black, dont like chrome!

Ahhhhhhh! now I see why I was rubbing! did the same thing with VB bumpsteer spacers and they touched, couldnt figure out why (doh). I ended up putting on a pair of 8mm spacers so the ball joint clears. When I can afford it im going to 16' wheels, so the spacers will do for now.