DakotaZ

This same problem just started happening to me. I must have a leak some where becuase my master clutch cylinder went dry, that's when it first started, (of course). So I filled it back up and bleed the system out at the slave cylinder. Worked fine for a short trip and then coming up my driveway I had the problem again. Still had plenty of fluid, so I readjusted it again. Once again worked fine for a drive but happened again when I pulled up into my drive way (which is up a hill). turned it off put it in gear and started it back up, noticed it was creeping when in gear and clutch pushed in. check out the adjustment again and it appeared fine. Let it set again for awhile, turned it on and shifted easily through the gears. Does anyone have any ideas or do I have a gremlin.

I replaced my clock in my '72 by going through the glove box. Of course when I tried to take the glove box out it didn't survive to well. So if you go this route and want to save the glove box, be careful.

It runs into the back of your air cleaner housing. Since you don't have a stock air cleaner then if your floats mess up the fuel will just spill out on your exhaust manifold, doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I would think you could just run a line down below the exhaust manifold and it would be fine, but I'm no expert. I just had fuel spilling out of one once when I messed the float up.

You may have to do some minor adjustments. One way to see if your door latch isn't working properly is to operate it with the door open. It has 2 clicks, if it is stopping at the first click then your door will be closed but the lock won't operate. So with the door open make sure the latch runs through it's entire operating motion. If it is when it's open and the door locks then you may have to adjust the plate on the door jam. If I remember right there is also some plastic adjusting nuts on the rods inside of the door.

Have checked the balast resister, checked fine. My battery reads over 12v, wouldn't think that it would just die then not start again if it was the battery. Did tear into my Dist. last night though. When I suck on the vacuum line the vacuum advance doesn't move, also when I manual move it and but a finger over the opening it doesn't hold pressure, not sure if that's normal or not. The Breaker plate operates really rough, I cleaned it up and but some oil on it and it moves easier now. When I checked my condenser it didn't read infinity, I had replaced it already, I wonder if I got a bad one or something is messing them up. So I think it is time to upgrade to a pointless system and try to get this back on the road, tired of driving my Minivan in the summer.

Didn't know that there were secondary fuel filters at the carbs. were are they located? Is there a way to trouble shoot the ignition to see if that is working properly

Fuel pump is working. took off the hose leading to the carbs and sure enough she pumps. I tried shooting some ether iton the carbs and still nothing. Could something in the carbs just freeze up like that? I do get a spark to the plugs but it seems to die out after I crank it a couple time. Battery still reads around 12 volts. Does anyone know if Motorsports carries the Petronix system. I see it in VB's catalog but not Motorsport.

About 3 weeks ago I backed out of my driveway and my "72 died and wouldn't start. I got her back into my garage and started trouble shooting. It will crank over really good but won't start. I read the other posts on this subject. I replaced the condenser and then the coil, also checked all the connections, still the same problem. I'd really appreciate if someone could give me some advice on what to look for. I'm going to keep trying this coming weekend. If I can't get her running I'm thinking of upgrading the ignition system. What is best, the Crane 700 or 3000. or the petronix upgrade? So come monday if I don't have a car running I plan on ordering one of them.

Set those VCR's. I saw in the newspaper today that the "Nissan's Sporty Z Car" will be on the History Channel at 9:00 am (central time) next Saturday. I'm sure that the History Channel runs the same shows coast to coast just different times.

Thanks EScanlon; I printed your posts and referred to them a couple of times while adjusting my window. It's still a little tight but works. My front track is slightly bent. I did straighten it a bit. So now my door is treated with Por15 and it has new felt window channel strips. bumber roller, outside and inside door strips, along with new rubber on the front and back of the window door frame and on the bottom of door. Next winter I'll tackle the passenger door.

90% chance that it's the oil pressure sender unit. Mine was, it's a common problem.

Yes I bought a new roller and installed it, the old one was broke. Por15 is a preservative to prevent rust. If you had your window out and saw some rust then it is definately worth putting this stuff on. Sure i a pain not to have a window operate properly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Took my driver side door apart this winter to treat the inside with Por15. I did have abit of a problem with rolling my window all the way down and then getting it back up before. Well now it's even worse. Does anyone know of a trick to properly adjust the window requlator and guides to fix this problem? Thanks

Your best bet is to keep checking on Ebay. Every once in a while I'll see some posted. That's were I bought mine at. Just be careful because the backside can be rusty, so make sure you can see what that looks like.

She has always ask permission if she can drive it. I let her take it one time when I was out of town. She called me on my cell phone saying she couldn't get it started and has been trying for awhile. The key wouldn't turn. After I got home she confessed that she did eventually get it started and she was using the key from my S-10. PERMISSION NOT GRANTED in the future. No she's not a blond.