Zup

Ha----Thanks Site! The promo check is in the mail. Be warned--you're stepping into @S30Driver domain. Rubber from Precision, no matter where you get it, represents the best value "all in one kit" in my experience, but with several big caveats. My opinions are based on trying to do it only once for the next 40+ years and to me originality is a big issue. 1. Door seals---original Nissan/ Datsun---nothing else comes close for fitment--these will cost you dearly IF you can find them. 2. Inner hatch seal---same as above---too important to keep fumes from the cabin and it is such a convoluted profile that I don't want any issues--still available if you are diligent. 3. Windshield-----same as above---too important to use anything else, even though they are very expensive. 4. Hatch----same as above---- and still in good supply at a nearly reasonable price. All of the other seals from Precision fit well enough to do their intended job (IMHO) and fitment is not as critical.. I've been tempted to try out the complete kit from http://vintagerubber.com/datsun-240z-full-restoration-seal-kit/. They offer seals for all the Datsun/ Nissan collectibles---not just the 240/260/280z. ( @Patcon---the 510 goon wagon) Their kit is 3+ times as expensive as the Precision brand, but it is even more complete and supposedly they stand behind their product. That said, they may actually represent the best value. Of course you will need tons of small bits from ( @nix240z ) Steve Nixon at www.240zrubberparts.com . That gentleman has been a godsend to the z community by providing items that no one else will ever produce!

Any mention of what the rustproofing material actually was? I bought a 5 gallon can of a military spec, self healing, wax based anti-corrosion solution (similar to cosmoline) in a rustproofing effort. I applied it to all the areas I could reach, that I thought could be moisture traps, until it ran out the seams. Created quite a mess on the garage floor and smelled like solvent for a while, but that went away in a week or two it seems. No lingering smells now. I didn't drill into inaccessible areas like the frame rails though. At the time I couldn't convince my self to do that! Hopefully it wasn't a futile effort. I suppose it could still be done more thoroughly and the holes capped.

Not surprising they are still available---no telling how many hundreds of these are replaced each year from losing the little pins! They may get changed more frequently than oil in the motor! Seems I lose a few to the cracks and crevices every time I remove panels---I can hear them tinkle on their way down in there but can't reach them, so I use the pantyhose on the vacuum cleaner trick. It works!

@240260280z This photo of my 7/70 240z shows what appears to be the same "feature"? No idea of what would be the reason for it.

Depends on what you want it to look like and to what extent you are replacing them. (IE: if you are deleting emissions and coolant lines to the carbs) If you are after the original style braided hose look there is really only 1 source. Be advised that going this route will cost you some greenbacks. You'll have to scroll through the pages to see all the items, as they are not all in one kit----although supposedly you can save a few dollars by ordering this "value kit": "https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hoses-pipes-valves-nissan-datsun-fairlady-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/original-style-engine-bay-hose-set-for-datsun-240z https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hoses-pipes-valves-nissan-datsun-fairlady-240z-260z-280z-280zx Smooth rubber can be had, but you will have to get what you need from multiple other sources---such as Zcardepot that Zed Head posted above. MSA (Motorsports) is another. I don't know of anyone who sells all the hoses needed in one place.

@wheee! Let me know if there is any way I can help you on your parts order. It isn't what I would call "fast" from the US to Canada but it might help.

@Rod's Garage A suggestion. Please turn up the resolution on your camera settings and post the photos as large as possible so that we can see more of the details in the images. There is a lot in there that can't be seen and appreciated when the photos are so small.

Cry me a river would ya! @zKars @wheee! JK!

Looks great Mario! Tell Mr. Vitorino he has done a fine job! Keep up the good work and thanks for the photos of your progress!

@nefiwashere Welcome! Nice car! Certainly should receive whatever it needs. You might contact: AwesomeZ in Houston The Bakke brothers. They are Z car restoration and modification specialists. 281-219-0015

Thank you @hiyabrad and Rod for giving us the unique opportunity to follow the restoration of this historic Z.

The middle portion of the throttle rod bracket seems to disappear from the reflection of the blue paint----really threw me off for a second, as the end of the bracket appeared to be hovering in space! Shiny? I reckon!! Beautiful!

As @Patcon suggested work on the adjusters and try to make sure they are retracted. Keep it up with the block of hardwood and big f'in hammer. They can be a bear to remove, but should eventually break free. I hope you don't damage the fins--the finned cast aluminum drums are another neat aspect of our Z's.

Welcome @z8987 ! Tantalizing photo! Hopefully just the start of your Z story. If Carl steered you, you got sage advice regarding Z cars. A $3500.00 entry fee into this world is unheard of these days, so congratulations on your purchase. From the photo it looks to be a really nice start. Please post more. (your first project is to adjust the wipers to a proper park position---) Judging by what you have said, the Z may be among the best bucks you could spend to return to a remembered moment in your life. Again---Welcome---you've got a lot to enjoy ahead!

Damn talk about a good deal! Glad it all worked out Cliff---might cut into your nightlife budget a bit---but you'll still have the mirror years from now ---the headache and parched mouth from a big night out would only last a day or two at most.

Great job on the rubber grannyknot!

@jonathanrussell Excellent post on how to go forward from here. @outlawswine @siteunseen Thanks for the kind words. My 73 was in a very similar condition to yours when I started. Dings down both sides of the car, crappy Weber downdraft carbs, lots of non-original stuff and it barely ran at all. For sure follow @motorman7 He is restoring a 73 to original (better than) condition. His photo essay is definitive in proper restoration and is a true inspiration to anyone with a Z and a desire to make it better. While he is doing it "stock", many of his examples of work areas would apply to any basic refreshing. If you really want to go extreme you could revert to the "boat anchors" and join our small bunch of aficionados. (just kidding-----well---- sorta)

@outlawswine Don't get me wrong, I am not disparaging your Z. It is very complete and is a very good starting point for refreshment or restoration. My statement about the mileage is based on what I see that has been replaced on the car and the re-spray at 35,000. It is only my opinion, and I've been wrong about a lot of things in my years. Cliff ( @siteunseen ) is in Gadsden. He's a for real "wise guy" on these cars! I mean it! Honest!!

Interesting that the round tops are the early 4 screw version. I'm thinking 135,000 on the clock.

Excellent photo tutorial and cautionary statements Capt'n. Do you have any firsthand experience with the locks available on E-bay that purportedly "fits Datsun 240Z"? Do they have the requisite lugs cast into the cylinder carrier body? I have been unable to determine that for certain by the photos posted in the listings. While I wish that statement to be true I am highly skeptical and thus far have been unwilling to invest $35-$40 to find out. If indeed they are compatible then they are certainly a bargain. I know the tabs at the rear of the locks where the linkage rods attach are shaped differently but that may be something that can be overcome with out great difficulty. Can anyone confirm ?

@az240z Excellent Dan!!

@qz16 Not an expert, in spite of what my best friend Jim said, but I have had several antenna apart. Your order is correct. The pronged ring goes against the inner surface of the body. The lower ring goes under the last metal cup against the metal of the antenna tube. It acts as a ground point. Hope this helps and, and please post up some photos of your restoration! We all always love seeing photos of owners efforts!

@Patcon Roger that! My tumbler (wafer) kit will be here soon. I'll post up the face cap, lock cylinder, and wafer numbers again as I found from ASP website. You might take the numbers to your smithys and see if they can get them from a wholesale automotive lock supplier. We'd organize a "group buy in" to cover the costs and distribute the individual pieces. @S30Driver and I discussed buying a pair of the Gator brand pliers (professional quality) and doing a loaner program similar to the "Spindle pin puller" done previously by members here, but that is a large cash outlay up front. KLOM makes a pair of these cap pliers that appears to be mid-range quality between the DHgate and Gator offerings. I like the re-seal feature of the KLOM, DHgate and Gator pliers, verses the cap removal only feature of the removal plier types.

GROUP BUY!!!

@240260280 @zKars @grannyknot @Captain Obvious @gwri8 Brainstorm time.