Zup
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Everything posted by Zup
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Sage that you are Carl, I remember many years ago you predicting the rise in Z values. All you pronounced has come true and appears to have more headroom ---not even a pandemic can dampen. I agree the 72 that Jim Fredrick purchased was an excellent buy at $37K, but think it was cosmically meant to be----the story, history and the reunion of Dan's Zs at Z Mecca. Perfect closure. But the difference is always about a particular car, a particular day, a particular set of buyers that just happens as it happens and is what it is.
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A lowly 73. Whodathunkit!
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I don't agree---but that's O.K.
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Entirely understandable----I was in the same boat as you. My 73 came to me with the Weber carbs. They were the first thing I removed. I converted to round tops and was extremely happy with them. As time passed I wanted to return to completely stock and then had to learn and understand the flat tops. It took two years and I received much help from other members on this forum. In retrospect, I like them and I'm glad I did it.
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As Steve replied, your 260 is yet another example of the factory flat top carbs being ditched. In your case, as was often the case back in the day, the carbs were replaced with Weber downdraft carbs. Extremely common. There is another thread currently discussing the conversion to round tops that will give you more insight into your options and required changes regards the round tops: You can keep the Webers and rebuild and tune them, go the round top route or ----my personal favorite----find a set of flat tops and restore them. I would caution that going with the flat tops is NOT an easy path.
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+1 on Vessel Kagy, my wifey, got me a set years ago----part of the "must have" tool collection.
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Mart, I am leaning toward the Japanese Imperial Army green as being the correct color. None of the several Z cars I have owned and / or dismantled over the years has shown evidence of yellow zinc or cadmium plating. The color is the same as the seat slider mechanisms. I've never seen or heard a definitively sourced statement as to what is actually correct. @kats may be able to inform us
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If you want "original" carpet I suggest Chester and Herod. They were the original suppliers when the 240z came with rubber mats. Speak with Jim, if you call. He was there when the Z carpet thing happened all those years ago. and to the best/ last of my knowledge he is still there. Ask for samples---he will send them. If you want a higher quality carpet, upgrade to their wool----$$$------not original. '
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I've ordered a few of these. Yep---they are real. You might want to snag one while they are available. A lot cheaper than a rebuild, IMO. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Datsun-70-72-240Z-Crankshaft-Pulley/113864791592?hash=item1a82ded628:g:kucAAOSwEC5dYZRA They are drilled for balance just like the originals and have tapped holes for the additional pulley groove if you need it for A/C.
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You are correct, but I think it is a safety/liability thing with Steve. Many, many Z owners do not purchase a battery with the correct terminal configuration for their car. The simplest way around this issue is to isolate both terminals against arcing with the covers. If you don't want/need a cover, just remove the offender. Yes---Steve will make whatever is shown as "out of stock" if you contact him through his website.
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Available from Steve Nixon at https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7319377 Not cheap, but perfectly reproduced.
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Your pre-plating prep will be rewarded handsomely irregardless of what the plater might do. Your prep work is outstanding. Nice tip on the screw heads. Did you ever find another one of the early style clamp you were looking for?? (LMK) I want to express a word of caution about your choice of a plater. I used Sav-On Plating and overall I was not very happy with the results.Your mileage may vary, --- just saying---no slam on Rich or his beautiful results on Bob Russell's blue 73 that he did before the Orange. Your restoration is way beyond nice. Not a time for "screw-ups" and disappointment now. I would look for a plater closer to home so that I could oversee the results more easily and communicate my expectations directly. Shipping and "batch" minimum charges get to be expensive when done "cross country". I know now. I have thought of contacting Jeff Palya at http://paltech1.com/ and inquiring if he would agree to having his plater do future work for me. I've had him do flat top and round top carbs for me in the past and the plate-work was awesome. Might be a path for you to explore.
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No. You might inquire with your mechanic what his reasoning is for that statement. Yes. If what the mechanic is referring to is not as Cliff describes in his posts above regarding the float bowl lids, I haven't a clue as to what he's talking about. So----how is it running? Any issues?
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You (and your Z) ARE golden Jim! Is that your latest trophy win? Happy Birthday from Zup and Zilver!
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Great reference material Jim! When I posted above I had not yet read your exchange with Rich (motorman7) regarding creating the cables using the Pep Boys type terminal ends. You guys continually amaze me in your inventiveness and adaptations using off the shelf pieces, getting very acceptable (reasonable) results. To Everyone: Please accept my apologies if my comments appeared to be disparaging of anyone chosing to make their own. That was not my intent.
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Hi All, I started following this thread when I got back from an extended work trip and thought this link might be helpful: https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7319377 Although these may be too pricey for some, Steve Nixon reproduces the cables and they are perfect replicas. I suggest that instead of creating another replica, time and money might be better spent supporting the efforts of those that have already done it. In reference to a few of the questions above: The Z Store does not have any of these original cables in stock and it is highly unlikely they will ever have them again. I purchased some of the last ones they had several years ago and have found a couple of sets from a Canadian source since, but recent inquiry informs that they are now unavailable. There is no discernible difference in the 70-72/ 73-74 cables. I have them installed on my 73. CanTechZ is correct. The positive cable is the only one that had a terminal insulator cap originally. Steve's reproductions have them on both in an abundance of caution. (Many Z owners do not purchase batteries with the correct terminal orientations) zKars your photography skills are really getting better---great closeups Jim!
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I use white lithium grease and a fine tooth racheting box end wrench. (Gearwrench: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GearWrench-KDTools-Metric-7-Piece-Flex-Combination-Ratchet-Wrench-Set-9900-NEW/300930317149?epid=1717817801&hash=item4610d83b5d:g:yp8AAOxyAc1SPMfm ) This method has saved most of my cuss word vocabulary for other issues.
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Keep your meter right where it is calibrated Captain! That stuff has to be called out to keep us straight with the truth and you would be a pilot.
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This photo doesn't begin to do the craftsmanship justice. Beautiful and crisply executed in a manly manner. (if you get the point) My personal favorite is the one in brass. I'll be installing it on Zilver soon so it will always be with me on the car. A cherished possession crafted by my skilled Captain! I know Jim Frederick of Z Mecca fame------we've been friends for a long time. His offerings are genuine and real--no worries there. Pricey?? Yes, but when was the last time you saw a NOS one. A lot this Z stuff has gotten out of range of most of us. I agree with the Captain---if it came with the box and original packaging (if any) it might be worth it. His garage has ~20 pristine 240Z cars. He doesn't need the money, so I'm surprised he is selling.
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Right on Site!! Coop----sounds like this is under your control now. Best of luck with your conversion!
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You are in truly GREAT hands using the Captain's explanations and advice, but I will chirp in here with some comment. This is all dependent on a "given" that you intend to convert to round top carbs from the flat tops. The lower thermostat housing that you have with the blocked off port is interchangeable in mounting with the earlier lower thermostat housing. The upper housing caps are the same. You could swap out the lower housing, install an earlier manifold water fitting and reduce some of the clutter and previous owner damage. When and if you decide to change over to the earlier balance tube you will also have the opportunity to change to the earlier type water piping at the rear of the engine block. This would eliminate capping off the now un-necessary water lines on the water piping used on the later flat tops in that area. The routing of the water lines with the "Y" connection shown in your lower photo is on the wrong side of the block/ valve cover. It should be on the opposite side ---mounted below the spark plugs. It reduces in diameter and converts to a hard metal pipe the wraps behind the engine and connects to the rubber coupling shown above the heat shield on the lower photo. If you have on hand all of the parts shown in your photos you have most everything you need to make a complete proper conversion. I don't know if you have on hand the earlier metal water pipe that wraps around the rear of the engine. The capped port on the balance tube shown in your third photo should be plugged just like it is on the very end. Just a plug, instead of a fitting with rubber hose and a bolt. The remaining fitting is where you obtain vacuum for your brake booster and can be left there (vertically) or moved to the end (horizontally) depending on which hose type you have coming from the brake booster. I did the complete round top conversion on my 73, but then later made the decision to return to the "original" flat tops with all the associated air/ water/ vacuum plumbing in going back to a "stock" configuration.
