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That was lifted from frost fighters website. Apparently there is no residual material after application---only the lines. A purpose built grid that matches in lengths, spacing and element thickness should be as close to original as one is probably going to get and in my mind would likely be a better performer than a mix of old and repaired segments or a new conductive grid with irregular thickness (hence resistive) properties. I appreciate your "do it myself" approach and applaud you for it. My only intent here is to see if there is interest in a quality one source solution that virtually anyone can purchase and install with a minimum of hassle and a maximum of performance.

Dave, Late to this discussion but--- I made readings from a NOS hatch glass with horizontal defroster grid that I was fortunate enough to find and purchase recently. Using the 200 ohm setting on the VOM 1.6 ohms was the resistance value measured. I've thought in the past when S30driver and I were discussing this that we might reach out to frost fighter and see if they would consider a purpose built replacement grid for our Z's that would exactly register over the original element lines. Since almost all defrosters on our cars are non-op and that no source currently offers replacement hatch glass with the lines, there might be enough of a market that they would go for it at some price point. I'm reluctant to utter that iffy phrase "Group Buy" , but pre-sales might provide leverage as an inducement to them.

Sounds right to me Jerry. That would match what I have observed and done on my resto's. Mike McGinnis would have the ZCCA correct Datsun blue. (middle of page) Ask Mike for confirmation of the smog pump back plate color when you call him with your order. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php

It isn't. For the quality of your restoration this won't do. Weld it up or find an original unaltered tank. The long board coupled with repeated taping of the line and working both above and below the tape is how my painter established the line on Zilver.

@LBO730 Bryan reproduced and sold the shift lever, handbrake lever and wiring harness wrap several years ago in both vinyl and leather material. The quality and accurate appearance he achieved was exceptional. Most everyone (including me) that purchased them were very pleased. Possibly he will see this and comment.

I'll put one in the mail for this endeavor tomorrow Cap'tn.

Pretty sure the red one and the one in the bottom photo are aftermarket. I have 2 of the original metal fans with original clutches---both are identical to the fan/clutch shown in zKars photo and as described by AZ240z. The factory service manual describes dis-assembly and replacement of the viscous fluid in the clutch.

Hi Cooper260z, Welcome to the forum. Looks like you have a very complete original flat top carb setup in your car. Somewhat rare to see these days in that good of a condition. Unfortunately, for you or anyone wanting to replace these hoses, they are all near un-obtainium. Only by diligently searching E-bay for a long time was I able to find original braided replacements for my 73--- it literally took years. There are no "replacement kits" made or offered by any of the suppliers for our 73/ 74 Z's. There has been such a disparagement of the flat top carbs that most people replace them with the earlier round top versions which do not have all the complex hose plumbing original to the flat tops. Reproductions are not likely to be made available as a result. Yes---- you might find metric braided hose of the correct diameters to fashion and make usable but they will not have the preformed bends of the originals and the fitment will be difficult. @motorman7 has done some reworking of flat top hoses using off the shelf materials---possibly he will chime in on alternatives. I will add also that you might reach out to our Australian and New Zealand members for these parts. The 260z was sold there for several years past the 74 release here in the US. Quite possibly there is a larger quantity of these parts still available in those countries. You might enlist the help of @Gav240z to try and find replacements. He knows of a fella named Warren that has lots of parts if he can be cajoled into parting with them. Post photos of your 260-----we love pictures!

If this doesn't cover the hose replacement question you have, I don't know what will.

The block, alternator and A/C mount were all the Datsun blue. All of the block was this color up to the aluminum head. The oil pan should be semi gloss black.

Exactly what is required------I didn't know $hit from Shinola when I ventured into them. If an Arkie like me can do it, you and anyone else willing to put effort and time into them can be successful in bringing them back to life. CO, Motorman7 and a few others on these forums are with me in swimming against the current.

The ZStore probably won't have the correct floats or the right needles for your flat tops. There are no immediate sources for them. Chances are that your floats are good but need adjusting. More likely they just need freeing up on their pivot pins from years of varnish and gum accumulation. If your needles have not been bent and the fuel nozzle orifices have not been rubbed out of round by them they are likely OK.(shiny areas on the needle and close inspection of the nozzle orifice under magnification will reveal this) If and when you disassemble the flat tops, be very careful and try to not damage the rubber seal that is in the channel between the lower fuel bowl cover and the carb body. Most rebuild kits contain both types of this seal ( one for the early and one for later iterations of these carbs) but there has been some discussion that they are not as well made in some of the kits as the originals. You may want to re-use the originals in that case, if you get them out without distorting them badly. They usually come out fairly easily if you are careful.

Unless something has changed, the ZStore gets their carbs from ZTherapy, so you may as well deal with ZT directly. Many times the ZStore lists items as available when they really aren't and you place an order and are subjected to long wait times for fulfillment. Don't order until you call them first and they confirm all your questions.

Hi Dadsun-- Mark is right. You will need the Uni-syn as an aid to balance the airflow in your carbs regardless of flat top or round top. I wouldn't be spending money on a header until I found a true need for it. The header is immaterial to vacuum leaks. It might help with engine compartment temperatures, but until you've driven the Z hard enough and long enough to reach those temperatures how do you know it needs that as a remedy? The real issue with servicing the flat tops in any meaningful way lies in the fact you must completely remove them from the car to open them up, replace gaskets and adjust the internal floats and fuel nozzles. That involves dis-assembling a lot of air and water connections just to get to the point of faithfully adhering to the Factory Service Manual step by step so that the required adjustments are made . No shortcuts. No kidding. Once you go through this process the flat tops are reliable and perform very well for extended periods of time with no issues. I've driven my flat top powered Z round trip from NW Arkansas to Austin, TX in 2017 and Atlanta, GA. in 2018 with no problems. I couldn't be happier with them, really like that they are original to the model year and take some pride that they are rarely seen in proper operating condition.

You won't easily find complete sets of them. That is part of why they are expensive when you do. Eric Neyerlin's site is the only place I have seen them listed and offered for sale and they are a bit pricey at a grand plus shipping. http://zparts.com/index.php/shop/wheel-showcase-1/ Enough about the wheels------------ Regarding your bumper conversion, Eurodat provided sage advice in his reply. Keep all the parts and use care as they are removed. You might also reach out to s30driver here on the forums. Jim recently completed the conversion on a very nice 280z and can give you much information on the finer points of the procedure and provide cautions about what difficulties to expect. Best of luck in your endeavors!

It sure shows. The Z found a perfect new home for that to continue.

Good to excellent condition examples of those wheels are quite rare and will involve serious coin to knowledgeable sellers and buyers. Good to excellent condition centercaps are even rarer. Keep them! Consider finding a set of caps that will fit for daily use and preserve your originals for special occasions. Back in March of 2018 I posted this regarding these wheels (although I have a set of the original caps, the caps shown below are not correct for the wheel but I like the fit of them more): "Being a "4 spoke 'old school' fool" for wheels---- I had been intrigued for some time by this statement from Eric Neyerlin on his website: (www.zparts.com) "This wheel (pn 40303-N3200) is the only OEM wheel that Nissan specifically produced for the 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z (S30) models world wide. Nissan parts catalog shows a 4/73 production date for this design. Though common to most S30 models sold in Australia, Canada? and Europe this wheel was not offered stock on any US imported Z cars except for one year on the 1977 Black Pearl special edition model. Now, 46 years after the 240Z models were first introduction, this rare factory wheel is increasingly regarded as the the only true, period correct, vintage factory aluminum wheel to put on a meticulously restored S30 model, apart from original, model year correct, steel wheels and hub caps common to US models." Well---OK--- I'm in------- This is one of the set of 6 that I recently purchased. All of the wheels are in truly incredible condition, extremely clean inside and out and 4 of them are polished very well. I had a NOS set of center caps on hand from years ago that were destined for use on a set of "iron cross" wheels I owned at the time. The caps fit perfectly on these wheels and I've always liked the factory Nissan "acorn" style lug nuts with the captured washer. A substantial nut with positive fitment between the wheel and the lug. If the stated original production date of 4/73 is correct, then it is entirely conceivable that my 6/73 240Z could correctly have worn these in that same year. As period correct as I can get for this car and I don't have to risk losing my hubcaps-----been there and done that." And also----here is an excerpt from www.zhome.com : Pictured below: A Japanese dealer sales flyer that describes the optional aluminum road wheel, that was available on the 1978 Z. Followed by a Japanese to English translation. Contributed by: Andrew Streckfuss, IZCC #6438. . Translation: Although Z did not attain its respectable status only by the equipment, no other automobile is furnished as complete as Z. * Michelin tire and aluminum wheel Z is not the type of automobile to speed like a maniac; while it normally travels gently and straightforward, it has the ability to quickly dodge any unexpected change in a situation - for example, when a child suddenly jumps on to a street. This swift footwork, which guarantees Z's safety, is, of course, due to the excellent balance and superiority of its total facility including ideal and sharp sterling features. Yet, in order to perfectly exhibit such distinguished performance security, Z's basis is entirely guarded with radial tires. Especially, Z-T employs the Michelin steel radial tires and 5 1/2 J-14 aluminum wheel. (Z-L adopts 195/70HR-14 steel, and Z wears 175SR14 steel.) - - - End Translation - -

Welcome to the club! Very nice looking example you have there Tom! Please do tell us more about yourself, your Z and your life long interests. We love photos too-----if you've got 'em, post 'em.

Shelby, Rockwell and U.S. Mag were contemporary manufacturers of the Libre design that, I believe, originated and was initially produced in magnesium by American Racing Equipment for track use . ARE was heavily involved in the growing aftermarket alloy wheel market for Domestic and Import automobiles. The design was so popular, especially after the successes of BRE on the track, that they were quickly copied by these competing companies. Branding was found inside the rim in the casting. There were variations in the castings made by each manufacturer, some with more reinforcing "webs" or "ribs" and different internal sectional profiles. I have owned sets of the Rockwell and U.S. Mag versions and can attest to the fact that in some aspects they were inferior in quality of construction to the ARE product. I currently have 2 sets of the original genuine ARE Libres and, in my completely biased opinion, consider them (and the Le Mans design) to be the most period correct alloy rims for a 240z (14") or 510 (13"). The only company currently offering this "Libre inspired" design is VTO. They also offer the Le Mans design. BRE has partnered with VTO to provide them. https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020C02&Category_Code=bre_datsun_libre_wheels Futofab is another authorized dealer for VTO. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53:vto-wheels-now-available-from-futofab

Me too. But I've amassed around 120lbs. of nautical paraphernalia myself. It's not like silver. I think I will pass on cornering the market. Jim, I would be interested in select bits. Let me know if you are receptive to a "part out of the parts". Knowing from experience Canadian/ US postal rates, the idea of shipping 70+ lbs. stateside is a deal breaker even if the goods are free.

Congratulations Jim on the resurrected radio! A proper video for inclusion into the Hitachi AM Signal Seeking Radio Brotherhood would include actuation of the signal seeking feature demonstrating the automated hands free tuning which made them decades ahead of their time in providing "distracted driver" safety. S30driver and I did this one some time ago. The beauty of these nearly 50 year old radios is that they can be serviced and brought back to life. Often times the replacement of the electrolytic capacitors and/or occasionally the power transistors is what is needed to make them function. The parts are still available.

@Gav240z I found this old thread where a fellow from Germany ( @UM240) was converting his radio to a Retrosound unit. The photos show the before and after and he does not use the fuse holder or the rf choke. You might reach out to him by PM and see if he retained the parts you need.

Really neat job! Nice and plump.

Well-------ahem------the value of this one just skyrocketed!! Looks great on the inside. Don't get too carried away with cleaning and lubrication. A little tuner cleaner into the potentiometers on the front knob areas will help with accumulated dirt and grit, reducing scratchiness and will help smooth rotation of the controls. Not sure anything can be done for AM sound with this unit--- ? ---- it'll never sound like Dolby. ? Of course now you know you are into about $200.00 worth of knobs and faceplate reproductions from Steve Nixon and indeterminate costs for re-plating of the case. Should be a nice diversion from transmissions. Where's the video???

I'd have to unpack my stash of Z radios to see for sure, but that tag shown in the photo looks very familiar. I think it is a serial number and if matched against others would yield the model of this one. To me it initially looks like it is an early Hitachi signal seeker as referenced by the position of the antennae switch on the side. I am unaware of any AM/FM units that had the side mounted rocker style switch. Those later units had the momentary switch mounted on the top right hand corner and it was of a different design. Open that puppy up and take a photo----it will be definitive once we see. @Gav240z Maybe more than you need, but I knew Jim would have the parts!