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Best bet is to reach out to fellow hoarders for replacements. There are more than a few here who have gutted the original radio internals and have just recycled the case and faceplate, using Retro-sound, or equal, modern solid state components for their myriad features (Bluetooth, etc.) These wouldn't need the rf choke and probably have their own integral fusing. Someone surely has kept these original bits and might pass them on to you for your restoration. Put out a plea in the "Wanted" classifieds----- @zKars or @jfa.series1 might have spares--unfortunately I do not. I will ask around and see if any turn up from my contacts.

Hi Gav--- Very nice work restoring your radio! I think you need a ba7s bulb--- Here's a link to the bulb and dimensional drawings so that you can confirm fitment clearances. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/ba7s-led-bulb-1-led-ba7s-retrofit-car/10/76/?gclid=CjwKCAjwnIr1BRAWEiwA6GpwNY4zgUw__K-ofFFCw1QEY9q7xIUt6ILpyRrSvUIGgdD1BgXCZCfctRoCyFkQAvD_BwE

Cheap-arse alternate----I've successfully used that aluminum air conditioning foil duct tape to cover the reflector. It has adhesive on the back, can be applied as an overlarge strip to the reflector and the excess trimmed with an x-acto knife. Polished with metal polishing compound it has pretty darn good reflectivity, especially if you spray paint the housings white before assembly.

240260280 and grannyknot got most of these right--- but I'll add 1. Hatch cargo strap band 6. Accelerator rod to throttle linkage spring 11. Pre-installed appearance of an ignition lock security screw (un-snapped) 8^P----your blurred photo is a hoax

The quality of your reproductions is unsurpassable! I have ordered and installed several sets of them and could not be more satisfied. I waited and asked for years for someone to make these available and you stepped up and finally did it beyond expectations. Thanks Randy for all you do and----yes---- I'm interested!!

What is the diameter of the early clamp you need? I have a few of them and could sort through and maybe find what you need. You've done some very impressive work. Paltech does do very nice plating--as you said, probably too nice. He was the only one I could find anywhere to restore the plating and finish on my flattop carbs for the 73. ZTherapy wouldn't do it. When I got them back the floats, jets and needles were not adjusted properly, but eventually I got that done. Just saying, be sure to check them before your install. Sure you are eager to fire them up! Continue updating us with the build. Do you think it will be complete for Zcon2020?? Hope to meet you there.

This is messed up. Vin # to 021000 in May of 1970???? My July 240z is Vin # 0007032. Then it jumps to Jan 1971-----what about June, July, August, etc.???? Just saying there's a big typo here.

Kats, Could it be any one of these?? https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/ferrari/dino?page_size=60&pub=hsx

What???? I can't un-see that post Kats-----don't tell us you are serious! The end of time must be nearer than I thought.

That downpipe is quite the downer on such a beautifully preserved Z! Couldn't take the time to address it, or was it just too disruptive to remove and restore the finish?? Not a big deal I guess---preserved patina at best. I agree Charles---it will be interesting to see where this one lands. I think in the upper side of 60K---as you said "softer". Maybe Jim Frederick would hazard a knowing appraisal??? @Jim Frederick

Thanks Dan for providing that link. A nostalgic trip down memory lane for me, seeing posts by @DeesZ, @rtaylor, @Arne, @Mike B ,yourself and many others. Can't believe that was 10 years ago and wonder how everyone is now. Lots of good information in that thread and really the beginnings of the horn discussion. I looked and looked for a seller of the Aervoe camo spray but never could find one.

Yep---it is a fairly dark olive drab green color. I haven't found it as an in-the-can spray, but approximated the color closely by using Rust-oleum Camouflage Green with a very light overspray of Rust-oleum Oil Rubbed Bronze. You'll have to go back and forth with the spraying between the two to get just the right shade, but you can compare your result to the seat rails and heater box and blower for correctness since they were the same finish----at least on the earlier Z cars like yours (6/70), Mike's (?/70) and mine (7/70). The beginning of the discussion was started here by Mike ( @CanTechZ ) @zed2 Keith described it as Imperial Japanese Army green and gave the formula for it here: Imperial Japanese Army Green color match by Sherwin-Williams Oil base semi gloss

That's the most thorough hoover job I've ever seen!!!

Finished booking rooms for the Arkansas Jims. Funny---before you couldn't get 2 double beds---now you can't get King size. Some things aren't quite right but maybe it will get sorted. Kagy (the wifey) and the 2 white furry varmints are hanging-on for the duration unless they get 11th hour cold feet.

Jay reproduces the downpipe as well. Can't believe he hasn't developed and offered the resonator/ mid-pipe section yet! Hopefully he will in the near future.

Make that COLD STORAGE---

Courtesy of an unfinished project I still intend to do when I enlisted the incredible help of Jim Karst @zKars Jim compiled this 18 page .pdf of photos with description of the number required, size, thread pitch and length for many of the fasteners as removed from a 12/70 240Z (if I remember correctly). 2 large boxes with altogether about 60 lbs. of parts. s30_Hardware_pictures.pdf Some techie may be able to open the .pdf and display them in a sticky post for easier access on this site. alas I am too challenged to do it myself.

I stand corrected Captain. Seems my "clarify" was cloudy!! Thanks for setting the record straight!

Looking good Martin!

It is. They are the same parts--you gave much more complete photos. Looks like a very nice set you have there Martin!

To clarify-- The 73 240z did not have shock absorbers incorporated into the bumper support mounts---that actually came late in 74.5 260z and into 75 in the 280z when the bumpers became the really large projecting "parkbench" type. The bumper support mounts were a very heavy stamped steel plate assembly with a round steel tube transversely mounted at the end. These are much more massive than the thin flat metal strapping that mounted the earlier bumpers and was indeed a design change to make the front bumper assembly more crash worthy. (If you agree that deformation of the bumper would still occur, but no "crush" of the bumper into the radiator support or engine compartment at a 5 mph frontal impact was an improvement.) As crash standards evolved to higher speed impacts (15 mph??) the transition to the shock absorber (controlled crush tube) method was implemented. Your car has the correct mounts and bumper. The plate you mentioned is not for reinforcement, but is merely a filler to close the otherwise large gap, and is correct. You are missing the front bumper over riders (or as some describe them "bumperettes") and the rubber covered filler pieces that fill the gap between the steel bumper and the headlight buckets (sugar scoops) above the turn signal indicator lights at the far ends of the bumper. The steel bumper covers most of this piece at each end. This is a photo of the passenger side filler. The drivers side is reversed. If the bumpers "fit terribly" as you state, it was the poor assembly work of the last person that mounted them. If done properly they fit quite well. Finding the rubber filler end pieces in restorable condition can be difficult in my experience. Many have deteriorated to the point of being very hard and cracked even if you do find them. Better candidates can be restored by applying many layers of a paintable rubber compound such as "Plastidip", drying between coats and sanding with progressively finer grits, then finishing with a final spray of Duplicolor "Vinyl Fabric". If you decide that this is too much to go through--- you can remove the 73 bumper, all of the filler pieces entirely, remove the heavy stamped steel bumper supports and replace them with the earlier type strapping supports, and source a used or new early bumper which will fit up much closer to the body. The earlier 70, 71, 72 240z bumpers are different from the later 73 240z bumpers in shape. Fortunately the mounting holes with concealed weld nuts for the earlier bumper supports are still present on the 73 body and can be used to mount the earlier bumper supports and earlier bumper.

YOUSE GUYS ARE KILLIN ME WITH KINDNESS HERE! Thanks for the thought Philip,and the possible offer, Mr. Frankenstein. (is that steen ? or stine ?---) I doubt that a single point deduction of the valve cover finish will make or break my chances at Nashville. Each year it is usually my own fault due to some neglected bits of dirt or overlooked insect carcasses that cumulatively do the damage and throw the spanner in the works. It's OK. I'll keep trying.

Ditto!!! The best news!

Sure hope you and family are O K Jim!!! Your Arkansas Jims are thinking of you!

@kats Zed2, Seems Kats had some very nice clear photos of the re-webbing in one of his many authoritative posts.