Zup

Might be easier to just use a neoprene washer then. Similar to this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-16-in-x-1-2-in-Black-Neoprene-Washer-4-Piece-815728/204276433?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-204276387-_-204276433-_-N

Generic rubber grommet of the proper size should do. You'll need to determine the size of the hole in the latch housing the latch rod runs through and the size of the latch rod itself and choose a size that is close to the same. The flanges of the grommet will sound deaden the metal to metal contact of the latch rod ring end and the metal washer on the spring side. I think that was the intended reason for the rubber cushion. You will probably have to razorblade split the grommet to install it-- using superglue to join the split after it is in place. The grommet may be elastic enough to slip over the ring end of the rod linkage----I don't know---worth a try. Scroll down to Style 2 in this page link: https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-grommets/grommets-6/

Totally agree with that John! Glad your issue came to a successful resolution. Your research into a source for reconditioning the heater valve for the 280's is a huge help to anyone faced with the problem. Very significant!!

Love the iron cross rims on your Z!

What is the overall curved length from the end of the valve to the core tubing and what does the ID of the hose need to be? I've got an impressive bunch of original braided rubber hoses here at home with all sorts of molded curved sections to them. Might be we can match up a length and ID from a section of one of them.

There IS a RH factory replica available. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154785975290?hash=item2409f68bfa:g:rPYAAOSweEFbCevK

Alternatively---if the outside glass surface is in good condition (no scratches) the original glass can be re-silvered on the backside and will be good as new. I've done this several times on interior rear view mirrors. contact: http://mirrorresilvering.ca/?page_id=113

So sorry for the issues and frustrations you are going through Charles! I know you were making every effort to get Lily finished in time for Birmingham. It may still happen! My Christmas wish for you is that everything goes smoothly from here onward. You've paid enough "dues" to the Z gods for the things that went south. It will take a while for the sting of this to diminish, but you know Lily WILL BE beautifully finished. You won't accept anything less.

Just realized you have a 77 Z. Did you use the OEM 77 mirror or one for a 240Z?? Don't know if you have seen these Jeff: Here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/154739819489?hash=item24073643e1:g:rPYAAOSweEFbCevK Funny that the price of a reverse engineered passenger side copy of the 240Z OEM mirror is about half the cost of a new Nissan driver's side one!

I've used Super Start Battery Terminal Protectors from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. Part #:01396 They come in a package of 2 that have a couple of different size felt washers pre-cut in each. Just separate them to find the right size for your linkage posts. Grease them with some white lithium grease. Or--this from Walmart:

@reefedjib Read through your posts with interest regarding the calculations for your "future build". You got @Captain Obvious attention. Nice work. You mention Dave Rebello and calcs that feature a 3.2 liter with triples several times. As a possible alternative, I would suggest you contact the Honorable Eiji Hosami at Datsun Spirit in Manassas, Virginia and discuss your plans. With you being in N. C. he would be a much closer build partner. If anyone can achieve the results expected from these figures, he would be it. Here's a teaser : http://datsunspirit.net/spl-series/ Peruse his website-----you'll like it!

I thought C.O. had pursued this also. @Captain Obvious

Assembled several Heathkit and Dynaco amps, preamps and tuners for myself and friends as a teen. I still have some of the Dynaco stuff. Did not know Heathkit was into automotive ignition though!

I agree with Charles.

Looks like the passenger side to me. He has several photos. Seems like I saw the driver's side in another one of his listings. Whatever---the short scalloped edge profile matches what John posted he was looking for originally. Ask him thru e-bay.

Here's one on ebay John----- https://www.ebay.com/itm/185146450385?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D3ce89bd2d23a4f7ba78d978ef80852fe%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D372764188727%26itm%3D185146450385%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af65ebedd-448b-11ec-8f71-42bfcfcd36e3|parentrq%3A19a5f5cb17d0a77d84e5a8c9fffd6b20|iid%3A1

Stainless swirled valves From the description: If you are serious contact Eiji at Datsun Spirit.

Couldn't say it better myself. Missed ya for too long. 2019 post by you

https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hardware-parts-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/brake-clutch-line-holder-bolts-x10-set-jdm?variant=643769873

They appear to be correct for a 73. The bumperette will overlap the rubber trim strip when they are installed. See the notch in the side profile of the left bumperette in your photo? That notch will fit over the rubber trim strip close to the end and will actually compress the rubber when fully tightened down if the rubber trim strip and bumperette are positioned correctly. The trim strip holes in the bumper are elongated and give some latitude for adjustment. Crowd the elongated holes to the side towards the bumperette as you install the rubber trim from the center of the bumper towards each end.

+1 or +2

All responses are correct. Only 2 required for both doors. But they were made in metal or in plastic and changed in size depending on early or late production . The bushing diameters changed according to the hole size in the linkage pivot point. It is a special shoulder bolt. This is another sub-assembly part you do NOT want lost or damaged. @Roberts280Z If you are missing these parts a call for HELP! to @zKars the supreme hoarder of all Z bits and pieces, or to @Captain Obvious the superb machinist and doer of all things Z may be your only hope!!

Jeff Palya at Paltech was the only person I could find to do flat top carbs. Very courteous and customer oriented. Beautiful work---came back like jewelry! Price was very good (but not cheap) considering the work done, as Mike said above. Only place that assured me that whatever carbs I sent would be the same carbs returned, as inline6 said. I have had him do 4 screw rounds tops also. Same quality. Over polished if anything. A word of caution---the work he does is very good----but go over your carbs carefully when you get them back to ensure that everything is adjusted properly according to the FSM. I had to reset the internal fuel nozzles on the flat tops to get them right. Didn't figure that out until ---once installed--- the carbs didn't run correctly at all. Had to remove them (PITA with flat tops) and adjust them, reinstalled and all was good. A lot easier to do on round tops, but thought I would mention it for others to note and keep in mind.

I hope you are right Steve! We might actually see each other at a Zcon again. It would be a great reunion in my book.

It is always better to get a good clean wipe!