Zup

Hey Stanley! The Mitsuba pumps are very reliable. They have a history in racing and rally. This really isn't about finding a pump that will work---that is easy. It is about making what came originally on the car perform for as many more years as possible. I do have an in-line clear filter that can easily be disassembled and cleaned as needed. It is mounted between the tank and the pump as a precaution. Maybe I'm a little too far gone, but I want to put it back the way it was and is meant to be. Believe it or not it gives me some comfort, harkening back to an earlier time I miss. Jim D. "Zup" .

Thanks to all for your responses---I thought the thread would die a quick death--but to my surprise, this gives me hope. Zcars---you are incredible---is there anything you don't have?? If you would please, send me your address and I will thankfully take you up o your most kind offer. As it turns out, there is supposed to be a lightweight spring which is underneath the filter and keeps positive contact with the filter bottom metal part and keeps the filter from slipping down on the pump shaft. Does your non-op pump still have this piece? Mine is missing. I will gladly pay for your parts so that another can live! Steve---If your contact comes through, put me down for a couple. Montezuma---The pumps are still available in Europe (Germany) and appear to be highly desirable for the Brit cars. Here's a link to the site I found: Parts for Austin Healey BN1 - BJ8 ? Fuel pump - Limora Oldtimer GmbH & Co. KG They aren't cheap (about 198.00 Euros) and shipping is the real killer as it appears there is no inexpensive ways to get it here----around 40 Pounds minimum. They are real Mitsuba fuel pumps though. The filter alone is 6.90 Euros but again shipping isn't affordable at all. The German site will hand you off to their English division as they fulfill all orders to the US and Canada. That is where the 40 Pound minimum charge comes in. Let me know what you find out if you pursue it. U.K. E-bay has a Mitsuba look alike that appears identical, but the seller seem careful to not call it that. It is quite a bit less expensive at 68.00 Pounds with shipping around another 10.00 Pounds Here is the link to it: Mitsuba Type 12v Fuel Pump | eBay Finally, to clear the filter type up--- the filters commonly found on E-Bay and Black Dragon and Motorsports and Courtesy Nissan and described as fitting all Nissan electric fuel pumps are for the Jiddosha Nikki pumps and will not work with the Mitsuba type. The proper filter itself is constructed with a bottom metal plate that prevents the check valve of the pump from picking up fuel unless it has gone through the filter canister---the Jiddosha Nikki filters are open at the bottom and therefor the fuel would completely bypass the filtering element. I do hope that some source can be found for the pumps and filters and that that source is also more affordable than the links I have provided. Thanks again guys! Jim D. "Zup" P.S. I don't know what is up with this text---words or phrases keep repeating oddly as I type. Damned bugs!

Many thanks for the link Zed Head!! I looked and looked at the xenons30 site but never found that TSB that had the info----it's a Mitsuba FP-3. Searched again for hours and found the filter in Germany! Parts for Austin Healey BN1 - BJ8 ? Fuel pump - Limora Oldtimer GmbH & Co. KG 6.90 Euros + shipping for the filter I may try the search for a domestic supplier of competition parts for the Austin Healey models it was used on. Thanks again!! Jim D. "Zup"

Thanks Darrel--- but No help at NAPA that I can find---

I've searched until I have a headache--- I borrowed this image of the pump from Jarvo2's post--mine is identical to it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/carburetors-s30/60523d1359306634-240z-electric-fuel-pump-installation-fp_original.jpg This sheet shows the part number for the assembly. It doesn't come up when entered into a Courtesy Nissans part search. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/carburetors-s30/60524d1359306635-240z-electric-fuel-pump-installation-fp_instructions.jpg My pump body is in great shape and it works electrically----but the internal filter is missing. I'd like to replace the filter, but can't come up with a part number for it. (the filter) My online part search for a 73 electric fuel pump filter repeatedly results in part number 16404-28530 This appears to me to be a filter for the Nismo (Facet) style pump which does not look like the one I posted above. Does anyone know what the part number for this filter is?? Is there a suitable aftermarket replacement? Thanks for any assistance! Jim D. "Zup"

I agree with Montezuma---totally awesome---could not be better! These small parts are very important to anyone wanting to truly restore their car and many have been unobtainable until now! Steve-- Can you reproduce the rubber gasketing for the air cleaner housing. They look to me to be more like an extrusion, but I have no idea really, and I don't know the full extent of your production capabilities. No one offers these and most anyone restoring/repainting or powdercoating their air cleaner needs them. Maybe you have contacts that can if you can't?? Also, I must mention the wiper linkage boot again---I need at least three. Thanks for all that you have done! Jim D. "Zup"

70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery

Very good photo-documentation (visual) of what is needed to get this done! Thanks! Administrators--- might want to move this to the "Tech Articles" section??? Jim D. "Zup"

Perfect timing Steve! I'd been meaning to ask for this piece for a while and you've already done it! The list of pieces on my order to you grows larger. I've sent a PM to several members to drum up interest for the door latch rubber and wiper linkage boot reproductions I inquired about to you. (attached) Please keep up the great work you are doing reproducing the bits and pieces that have no replacement part number or source! Jim D. "Zup"

Right Dan, I can attest to the early ones being in red rubber as well. All of the early cars I have parted or purchased have had them---usually in very poor condition. A red alternative would be a nice touch! Jim D. "Zup"

I too have ordered and received a set from JDM. They are as Guy said "perfect". I am very happy with them. They are now a realization we have been wanting and waiting on for YEARS! That being said, there are important difference which can be pointed out between these offerings. The photos above illustrate the extreme authenticity Randalla has provided. The JDM version does not have the elongated center post, does not have the L and R mold markings as original and does not come ready to install with push nuts as original, nor are there installation instructions provided. While I am very happy with my purchase from JDM I will certainly be ordering from Randella as well. They simply could not be done better, IMHO! Thank You JDM and Thank You Randalla for such great work on this important restoration piece you have made available! Jim D. "Zup"

Part # should read B5050-P7100 $47.97 + shipping from Courtesy

I noticed that this weekend also Chris---seems someone with connections read this thread and did something about it! Glad to see another small piece become available again. Jim D. "Zup"

Diseazd-- Help me out here--- What is the relay in the lower right corner? Is this the stock location? Ny 7/70 240Z didn't have this as far as I know---was it peculiar to automatics or 72's? Thanks! Jim D. "Zup"

i DON'T CARE FOR THE SELLER, but here you go--not a bad price since everyone else is out of them on E-Bay.. Item number: 370782287845 HTH Jim D. "Zup"

Thanks and very well done Jerry! Invaluable to those that wish to restore the original antenna to proper working condition---(I have several that need various areas of attention and his may make me bold enough to give it a go) This information- coupled with amcforester's post about using string trimmer line for replacement of the plastic mast cable--- just about covers all that is needed. Did you use Lubriplate for the grease or white lithium? Several years ago Motorsports offered reproduction rubber balls for the mast assembly. They were used above and below the sheet metal of the rear quarter panel. Your photo shows the lower one in place. The upper ball is identical, but reverses orientation to mate with the lower ball. I purchased a few back then and called recently to ask if they were still available----alas they aren't. Someone should repop these again, as the upper ball suffers from exposure to the elements and deteriorates. My experiance is that the antenna mast finisher nut is the most fragile part of the assembly. The plastic used gets very brittle and crumbly after 40+ years! I have managed to aquire a few good ones over the years--- credits to KG:kiss: Thanks again! Jim D. "Zup"

Thanks a bunch Rob! That helps me get a visual on it. I know there are several other members (Mike B and Chuck R) that are quite interested in maintaining the originality of materials used to restore their cars. Chuck R. made a pattern for me of his floorboards and behind the seats and sent it. It is a big help as well. Once I get all the patterns together I will reproduce them on a 1" square grid and scan them on a large scanner I have access to at the office and I will save it as a .pdf file as a reference for everyone. Jim D. "Zup"

Small observation--- I don't think Mike has reproduced the motors----they have been available all along as Trico windshield washer replacement pump #601. I have bought several from Amazon. He is probably sourcing these in quantity. The terminals have to be changed, but they are otherwise identical to the originals. Mike sells the alternate terminal ends for adaptation to the 280Z type. All that said, it is awesome that he HAS reproduced the original bottle and label---authentic in every detail! For those that want correctness and new, it doesn't get any better than this. The price is very resonable IMHO for him to venture this item to such a small market. Kudos to him for not cutting corners just to cheapen the price. Jim D. "Zup"

Rack Bushing Left 70-73 Rubber: Steering/Suspension Z - Bushings - 70014-EBU - Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it! This link is for the left side ---if you look around the site there is a right side listed for 240's as well. The text goes on about urethane bushings available, but these units are rubber. HTH Jim D. "Zup"

Robert, I hope to meet you there and revisit with Bonzi and many other Zed heads---haven't been in a few years since I took my silver 73 so it'll be good to get back. If you like driving the twisties and turnies in your Z you'll love the Branson area. If you enjoy spirited driving the "Dramamine Run" is a great prescription! There's usually a jaunt South into Arkansaw and back again. Always a great drive!! Ya'll come on down here! Jim D. Zup"

This has shocked me as well. Enrique was the best. I've been with this site since 2005 and hearing from Beandip about his passing has hit me as hard as when Carl Stahlnecker (AKA: Bambikiller) passed away. You just thought that guys like Carl and Enrique would always be here posting wisdom and knowledge. It was like the sun coming up. He will be missed-----a sad, sad day indeed------ but he will be remembered always. My deepest condolences to his family and his many friends. Jim D. "Zup"

TimZ and Mike, I am flattered by your reply, but Blue is soooo much better at this sort of pictoral. :classic: Now I just need to get these sent off to you Mike! And yes, thank you, thank you, sir for providing this plating service for our members. I can't remember how many times this had been discussed in the past at Classiczcars.com but you are making it happen! Once I read Mike B.'s testamonial I knew your product was "as advetised" and would satisfy the most discriminating among us with the quality of the end result. Jim D. "Zup"

Been meaning to do this for a while and the opportunity to get the chrome strips rechromed in 9teen7t240z's thread about the upcoming group buy put me over--- Thread title: Affordable Chrome Plating for plastic and metal parts A few pics-- Start as JLP mentions above. Grip the pushnut with some sharp needlenose pliers. I found that by twisting and turning back and forth eventually you can work the pushnut up off the stem intact. Use very hot water---as hot as your hands can stand---it'll soften the adhesive faster--and completely submurge the lens. Be careful and patient----it will come apart by pulling the halves apart. Once it starts enough to get a small flat blade in there just carefully pry and it will separate further. As above, once you have the assembly apart there are 3 more pushnuts to remove--2 round and 1 rectangular. Remove them in the same manner as before---these are much easier to get to and remove. Lastly, here's a link to a replacement pushnut source I may order from for reassembly when the time comes. It appears that 6-1/8" and 2-3/16" pushnuts are needed for each pair of tailights. Washer Lock Speed Nut Products - Marshall's Hardware Be mindful of the fact that your chrome strips are handed--left and right--and will only go on 1 way correctly. HTH Jim D. "Zup"

Ron, There is no source for the vinyl wrapped trim plates that I have been able to find. The current one's from Nissan are textured steel and have only 3 mounting holes instead if 5. I have heard of people contact cementing patterned vinyl to them to achieve "the look" of the originals. It's what I intend for my 7/70. This might be a good winter project to source the material and give it a go. Jim D. "Zup"

Koalia--- Try and get a product called "Metal Rescue". Amazon sells it.] It is non-caustic and biodegradable. It is expensive----about $25 a gallon---but will non-destructively remove rust from all of your fasteners and can be reused for quite some time before it becomes ineffectual. I've done approximately 25 pounds of fasteners with a gallon of it. It only attacks the rust and will not damage rubber, glass or plastic. I tried the tumbler approach and the results weren't very satisfying--lots of rust left in thread recesses and tight corners. It will strip plating from metal if left in the solution too long, but the parts will be clean of rust and ready for re-plating or re-painting after rinsing in water. It inhibits rust from reforming for quite some time, although it is not a final step. I think if you try it you will like it's results. Jim D. "Zup"