perry

10 MM x 1.25?

Driving me crazy figuring out what size it is. 10MM x 1.5 or 1.25?

Wow...that's alot more then 2cents. When I get time this weekend to digest your thoughts I will get back to you. Thanks.

From my limited electrical knowledge, when I read the schematic it shows the Black/White not being contacted in the "start" position, but being contacted in the "on" position. That is why I have it coming off the the on/off switch with power. It does take power to the fuel pump...but also the starter. The Green/White is shown as only having power in the "start" position and running to the tachometer. I have this coming from the momentary push button.

I put this up on the electrical forum but no solid help yet. I hope to work on it this weekend but I am still stumped. Without boring you with the details of why I have done this; With the actual igition switch removed, does anyone know why running power(White/Red wire leading into ignition switch) to the Black/White wire leading into the ignition switch would cause the starter to turn over? I know this wire leads to the fuel pump and it does turn the fuel pump on but why the starter? Thanks

a system that seems to be operable by anyone with worn keys like mine. That and I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars replacing the ignition with a new one. Then there is the issue of needing a different key for the door locks. It also gives other security as I can hide the switch and the button.

Anyone versed or patient enough to help me with a electrical issue? I am trying to install a switch and push button system on my 73 240 in lieu of the old key switch. Things looked like they would work but something has me confused. I hope my description instead of a drawing works; 1) White/Red wire brings power to the on/off switch, which passes the power onto the momentary push button, which in turn allows power to the starter via the Black/Yellow wire. This seems to work fine. 2) I have tapped into the wire between the switch and push button with the Black/White wire that supposedly runs to the fuse panel and seems to run the fuel pump(among other things?). This seems to power up the electric fuel pump as I can hear it. However, it also turns the starter over.??? Why, I don’t know because that is what the signal from the push button to the Black/Yellow wire also does. The car is trying to start but the starter is still engaging so I have to stop everytime. Anyone have any good suggestions or a better understanding of what I may have done incorrectly?

Can the cigaretter lighter socket be removed? If so, can you remove it without removing the dash? I want to install a push button switch and was hoping to not remove the dash.

Need to solve gas fume problems on my 73z(especially bad after overfilling tank) and have read numerous suggestions on various sites but can't decide which avenue to take; 1) Replace all the hoses to/from tank. McMaster-Carr has them cheaper then anyone else I have found. I assume I need to fully remove the tank and reinstall, which sounds like a HUGE job based upon negative feedback. 2) Replace the one vent hose on top of the tank and plug all the others at the tank while also removing the small tank behind the filler nozzle. The lone vent hose would be connected to the down spout somehow. Still, I assume I need to remove/reinstall tank. HUGE job. 3) If replacing the hoses, is it advisable to replace the filler hose? This one seems very expensive. Is there any option of NOT removing the tank to perform these modifications? Or, has the operation of removing/reinstalling the tank been exaggerated? Anyone done this?

I thought Too Intense used to have them but when I just looked on their site, they only seem to have the more expensive ones with the chrome trim.

I am too cheap to spend $150 a pair for the chrome and rubber replacements. I have seen where you can buy the rubber only for around $50-$75/pair and they suggest epoxying them onto the old chrome piece in lieu of the original ones being stapled on, but I doubt that works well. Anyone tried this? I have even purchased a 36" commercial window squeegee for $3 to see if I could make it work...but unlikely will.

has illumination in the heater console. That I already know. Need to know details about the lights/plugs/fixtures themselves as mine appear to missing I don't know if I can pick them up from someone else or if I should try and make my own.

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Took my heater console out to fix the clock(looking for one that works) and found there are 3 empty holes in the back of the console for light bulbs. I don't see any in the area. I do see several unused male/female plugs however. Can anyone shed light on what I need or what I am missing? Were the originals cut out from the wiring harness, or are there lights that plug into the unused plugs? Thanks. Portland, OR