EScanlon

As they say on the Roadster site... Pictures or it didn't happen. What year Roadster do you have? E

Carl's post is spot on. Once you are "almost" finished, and it's those last few details... the CORRECT OEM radio, not just an OEM radio, can make the difference in a restoration that you are confident of at a Concours show. At that point, what's a few extra bucks? That's part of the reason why a true RESTORATION is not in the same league as a REFRESHING. If it isn't back to the ORIGINAL status as it left the factory... it's modified. While a car may be modified very nicely, even to the same level of attention as a restoration, the fact is.... it's MODIFIED and can no longer compete in the stock classes. Granted different judges will allow certain modifications, but in a sanctioned event such as ISCA, there are levels of modifications/changes that are permitted before the car is changed in class. I've worked with the judges at the Portland Roadster Show for the last 4 years, and there are specific items that will immediately change the class you can compete in... to the chagrin of those who are unaware of what is and what isn't allowed. Then you have those vehicles that have had enough modifications in the right areas done to them that they can no longer compete at all. They've gone from the "Stock" end of the scale to the other end "Radical", and because they tried to maintain a "classical" look... they're not modified enough to compete against those who seek the Radical trophy, and they're too modified to compete against the Stock. Here are some examples, you guys decide if they're radical, custom or stock. Note the Headlight Sugar Scoops! Also check out this modification done by a Texan Z users to show off to his Japanese buddies. Note his shaved bumper, engine transplant, breather through the hood, etc. Is it a Z or not? He calls it a CorZette. All of them are different, but all are liked by their owners. Putting them down because you don't like them... well, that's childish. FWIW E

If they are true REAL leather and not the leatherette material being sold as real leather, that's a great price. However, the leatherette material I'm referring to IS leather... but only about 1/32" thick if that, bonded to another material. True leather re-covers where the material is ALL leather, I think would be much more expensive than their asking price. I haven't any experience with either one of those re-covers, but keep in mind that new foam, and good condition springs (whether rubber strap or steel spring) as well as knowing how to use the wires that enhance the fit are all critical to doing a proper re-cover. I've re-covered seats that were supposedly "professionally" recovered and gotten results that were more to the owner's liking. FWIW E

Except that even under that rule, the poster would complain about being unduly harassed by the moderators, would then get his friends to post comments supporting his position, sign on with a different log on (against the rules), and finally would post a donation to the club as a bribe to avoid being "hazzled" and would then continue doing what he was doing. It has happened, and the whining still continues. So much so that they feel and act untouchable... which apparently they are. The posts you're referrring to is just a new user who is happy to have found this site. The prior user on this thread is a signature line phisher link. His thread will be on topic enough to obfuscate his true intent, a link to his site via this sites popularity thereby boosting his rating. Kind of like posting links to sales on an auction site to boost the number of views and therefore skew the actual activity or simply to help advertise the item. The difficulty is in being on the forum often enough to determine which of those posts are trash and which aren't. Which users are Trolls and which are true new members just needing guidance. Some new users are convinced that it is the rest of the club that needs to adjust to them and not them adjusting to the club. When a user who has annoyed enough of the older members finally gets banned, there is usually a general feeling of "Good Riddance!" or :beer: for the . FWIW E

The bumpers prove to be more decoration that protection. So it might be that the PPO somehow bent/damaged the bumpers or the car came to him that way and it was decided that the car looked better without than with pretzel style bumpers. 260 bumpers in the same basic style as the 240's are a bit bigger and thicker, but they may be as rare or rarer to find than the 240's. The 280 bumpers will require the shock absorbers and the mounting systerm as well as the finishing rubber ends etc. Money being a strong consideration, your only solution may be the boneyard and finding something from another older car. If you did have some leeway with money, you might check some of the restoration/customization sites such as Chev's of the 40's, or the like, to see what they have. At the Roadster Show we see hundreds of cars with customized bumpers as well as shaved or incorporated bumper schemes. However, some of the treatments are outrageously expensive. E

Not positive, but would not be surprised to find out it was Stephen who pointed it out. His knowledge of the 280's is close to encyclopaedic. For the record, he is also a whiz with Air Conditioning. E

Another thought, PM SBlake01, he's very knowledgeable on the 280's and it would not surprise me if he didn't know of a wire right off the top of his head. E

The wire you're looking for may not be loose, it may be in use. The Radio power wire will almost definitely be plugged in to the back of the radio. The AC line may also be connected if the AC is installed. However, both of those wires will allow you to splice into them, and as long as your instrument power needs aren't excessive you won't have any problems. The problem lies in ensuring that. Look at the documentation that came with the gauge and see what the power requirements are, add those to the Radio's requirements and that way you will know if you are exceeding the fuse for that circuit. Don't forget to leave a margin for safety (surges). Most new instruments will only require a few amps if not barely an amp, but it depends on the instrument. Another possibility is to wire directly to the ignition switch, but here you're tapping at one of the main circuits which is why you hear of PO's having messed up or cobbled the wiring, so be careful. At the ignition switch I'd look for the wire leading to the Accessory Relay, it doesn't get power until the switch allows it. I am more familiar with the 240's, so I can only suggest generalities for the 280. Have you checked the wiring schematic and seen what is showing and where? FWIW E

Radio or A/C power leads Blue/Red in the earlier cars. As long as there haven't been any perversions done to the car, you could just tap into the wiring. However, if the instruments you're adding need a pulse free power source, you may want to avoid the A/C one. E

Radio or A/C power leads Blue/Red in the earlier cars. As long as there haven't been any perversions done to the car, you could just tap into the wiring. However, if the instruments you're adding need a pulse free power source, you may want to avoid the A/C one. E

In the FWIW dept, it's not a manual antenna, it's a semi-automatic antenna. A manual antenna does not have a motor. A semi- or full- automatic antenna does. The Fully automatic antenna extends or retracts completely while a semi-automatic requires the user to keep actuating the switch until it reaches it's stops either at full up or down. Now, couple suggestions... When you actuate the motor to try to retract the antenna, do you hear the motor at all? If so, you may have over-extended the antenna to the point where the nylon shaft inside the metal body is no longer connected to the wind-up reel. If the motor cannot be heard (because it is NOT operating) in the down position, but it can be heard trying to extend the fully extended antenna, then your problem is in the wiring to the motor. The Z's antenna is pretty basic, the two wires going to the motor are both "positive" while the body grounds for the "negative" connection. Depending on which wire has power, is whether it goes up or down. E

The side markers MUST be isolated from vehicle ground. If they're not, you'll short the circuit out. E

Excellent Dan! Interestingly, the wiper only shows ONE position and at that, it's one with what appears to be a resistance between 5 and 6. You would think that it would show three possible positions (if for the 73) or at least two for the 72 and earlier. The clarity is excellent, and it confirms a few, heretofore, assumptions. E

It isn't so much a matter of whether it will seal well or not at this point it undoubtedly would. It is whether or not you'll have to literally CRUSH it and/or if the thickness is such that it will push against the fender so much as to affect the "look" of the panel by pressing from below. This is critical, because you don't want to stress the fender when you mount it and THEN discover that it tweaked the fender out of shape. Foam crushes down to a very thin layer, and only if you used a very hard-closed cell foam would you affect the fender outline. FWIW E

the brake lights won't come on at all. Followed by : The running lights are fine, as are the other lights. Implies that the Turn Signal Lights are working, is that the case? If so, I'd check your Hazard Switch and actually cycle it a few times. Additionally, check the Brake light switch at the top of the pedal. E

I obviously missed where he had replaced the switch. But to answer the last question, Yes, they have been known to be bad out of the box. Try to rotate the brown electrical bakelite from the gray metal and if there is some movement, and this is where it's very subjective, it is highly possible that the Ignition Lock and Tumbler mechanism will not allow enough rotation to make proper contact to the Starter Contact. My main point in this is to try the SIMPLEST things first before undertaking a complete disassembly and overhaul. E

Excellent Addendum Carl! Heck, between the three posts, it could be a tech article. We just need to add the additional AC pertinent information to make it complete. Good Job! E

I'm reposting from this thread, post #7: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread33258.html Take note that there are FOUR cables and THREE levers. One of the levers actuates TWO cables and that is the TOP lever. The other two levers control single cables. The top lever controls: a) the fresh air vent that opens at the firewall vent valve behind the heater blower motor (the longest cable) AND the internal flap valve that ducts the air through the heater core OR straight through to the side and center vents in the dash. (the cable connected to the uppermost connection on the heater box on the left side) (FYI: There is NO position for the heat to flow out of the side and center vents, you will only get fresh air ... or not.) The middle lever controls the hot water valve. (right side of heater) The bottom lever controls the two side doors on the heater box (left lower side of heater box). When the doors are shut the air is forced through to the defroster ducts, otherwise the air is allowed out to the "room". FWIW E

I would suggest you start out with the simplest thing to check first.... the ignition switch behind the ignition lock. This is a known problem item that over time can shift enough to cause the exact symptoms you mention in your first post... intermittent contact to the starter. AFTER checking the switch, then go to the more complex checks. Several members have saved themselves hours of troubleshooting simply by replacing the switch. FWIW E

Ironhelix, see post #8 and follow the link. The formula from Wick Humble's book is listed there. E

You might want to re-iterate this. If A = B then B can be used in place of A except for mechanical mounting differences which you aren't referencing, nor are apparent. Can you explain? E

My first thought was to say that you could NOT get them without buying a completely new handle assembly, but looking at that link to e-Bay had me change my mind. That is an excellent re-make, it may not be "perfect" but if you look at the picture posted by ironhelix, it's definitely better than nothing. Do take note however, that it WILL require disassembly of your door handle in order to put them on. Otherwise you need to cut them and re-glue them once in place. (RC Car owners have an isocyanate glue specifically for bonding rubber, this might be a good use for it so you don't disassemble your door handles.) FWIW E

This is just one other response: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread6643.html and if you think it's more complicated.... Maybe it was your switch. But let others chime in. E

Carl's point is spot on. While sometimes it is the corrosion that causes the fusible link to fail, more often than not it is due to a massive short of some sort. Whether it's a positive post from the battery hitting the fender underside, or a cross connection between the main power wire at the fuse box and the choke cable, it's best to investigate WHY it blew first, than to arse-ume that it's something simple and therefore ok. A little bit of examination may avoid a costly and difficult to replace part repair. A tow may be the cheapest solution for this as it stands, forget bad fuel, brake fluid etcetera, if it starts smoking, you may not have the time to stop the car and disconnect the battery before it melts down. FWIW E

I also recall a clip of some sort that helps reposition it for smaller passengers (children, petite folks). If memory serves it just moves the shoulder strap closer to the belt with the aid of a loop that is clipped to one or both. Between the two suggestions you may find something. You might also look at repositioning the whole latch assembly by adjusting the straps on either side of the latch and the catch. This might not be possible with the 75 belts, but is definitely possible with the earlier belts. FWIW E