EScanlon

No, not necessarily. The e-brake pulls on a cable, which in turn pulls on the individual drum mechanisms. Problems with the Parking Brake are usually of the "cable is rusted and won't move" , or cable is broken/disconnected. Your post just said it didn't work, and my error in not qualifying it better. I've just have had the unpleasant look at what happens to the rear drums when you ignore the cable (shoes to the rivets scoring the drum useless, overheated and out of round drums). It should be mentioned however, that poorly adjusted shoes can make it so that the parking brake will not hold the car....even on level ground. At that point, the amount of pressure required to actuate the rear brakes properly is enough to cause an imbalance between the front and rear systems. I'm not a brake mechanic, but these are key points that I've been taught on how to watch out for problems. Probably the most important is that the early Z rear brakes did NOT adjust by driving backwards and stepping on the brake (U.S. cars of the era did that). That's why I mentioned the lift-click method of adjustment. FWIW E

Do you mean that the handle doesn't actuate the parking brake? If so, you might want to address that FIRST. Because if the rear brakes aren't working, then you're stopping with ONLY the front brakes, and / or you're doing some serious damage to the drums. If on the other hand, it's that the parking brake doesn't seem to hold the car when on a hill, then you might just need to adjust them. The Z's e-brake adjusted by pulling up on the handle as far as you could go, then releasing. Repeat this until all it takes is 6-7 "clicks" to hold the car. FWIW E

I've always liked the look of both those wheels. The first set is what I referred to as the "Maltese Cross", but not because of that being their name, but rather because that's what I recall someone naming them. It may have been here or in another discussion group. The second set looks really nice if in a gold tone finish on the "rough" cast, leaving the smooth in silver. I'm wondering if he's referring to a set of WHEELS that had the "honeycomb" hexagon on the radius out from the lugnuts central core to the actual rim. E

Not sure what you mean by the "honeycomb" hubcaps. The "Maltese Cross" style maybe? The reason for mentioning your wheels, is I have a very similar set although not identical to yours. I was interested to find out what thoughts if any you had for them, but I wanted YOUR thoughts on what you thought would look good. (So now I've tainted the jury.) Aside from the looks of the wheels, do yourself a favor/option. Get the steel wheels / hubcaps but keep your mags. That way you can have a "look" set of wheels, and an "original" set. That way, if you choose to go to car shows and enter in the "People's Choice" or .... you can opt for whatever will get you more "points". E

I would be interested to know what your plans are for the wheels. Also regarding "orange peel": Let your paint CURE thoroughly, not just set to handle-able/re-assembly hardness. You will find that some of that orange peel will settle out, and some will be more pronounced. IME, some paint lines specify that the paint can be handled and re-assembled at a given point after the application. Although the paint is generally hard enough to withstand even re-assembly, it isn't hard enough to polish. Sometimes it isn't even ready to wet-sand. This may sound contradictory, but check your paint spec book, the one showing you how long between coats, what primers, etc, or at least ask the paint shop where you bought it from. A rule of thumb on this, used to be to wait for 30 days, and then you could literally consider it "cooked". Nowdays, with the advent of a couple of different formulations, there are a wide gamut of times. This is important, because if you plan on "cutting" the clear coat and then buffing out, you don't want to... literally... smear-burn your paint off with the polisher. FWIW E

Looks EXCELLENT! Paint reflection doesn't show any irregularities.....smooth panels.....check. Color / Shine consistent and crispy clear......check. Judging from the pictures, I'd give it an A @ 10 ft, but that's just...... my 2¢

I'm not sure what you mean. Masking techniques are both taught/learned and developed/modified. That may sound confusing as all heck, but let me ~try~ to explain. The "hard" edge that the method I described, and that you refer to, is simply that there will be a DEFINITE start/stop break line between the new paint/primer and the unpainted/old paint. There are times and situations where this is the simplest and quickest way of blending / mixing / hiding the paint break line. Because of it's simplicity/speed this is, in my experience, the method most commonly used. To further explain it, let me offer this example: To paint a flat piece of sheet metal on BOTH sides AND all the edges, without leaving marks or "imperfections" in the paint, it would be easiest to paint one side first, and then the other. If you could rest the piece on a stand, you wouldn't even need to mask the back side while you painted the front side. It is when you painted the BACK (or vice versa) that you would have to be careful of the paint break line. (Let me digress and explain why.) Paint after being blown out of the paint gun is "wet" for a given period of time. As the solvent in it evaporates it hardens. All obvious items so far. However, at the extreme edges of your paint gun pattern, you have the lightest and thinnest of paint coats, and the "driest" of the paint drops (because of the distance from the gun, and the fact that they don't blend/mix with other drops previously or additionally sprayed there). The further from the gun, the drier the paint drops are, to the point that at some point they become dust. Some of these drops are wet enough to stick, yet too dry to blend in with other drops that they land on top of and beside of. These drops, are what are referred to as a "Dry Line". They aren't too hard to get rid of, if it isn't a "Finish" surface (i.e. primer, under weatherstrip, or the masking material), but they are a literall ~B!TCH~ on a true FINISH surface. On a LACQUER paint job, the dry line is almost unavoidable. The lacquer dries so quickly that it isn't unusual to see a dry line. Even using different thinners (Hi/Low Temp, Hi/Low Humidity), it is very difficult to eliminate a dry line. This is why you almost always wet-sand and polish a lacquer job to get the best shine. On an ENAMEL paint job, however, the paint is viable (wet) for a longer period of time, and as such, with the proper paint technique you can eliminate the dry line ... OR ... hide it. (I've painted Tractor Trucks (10 wheel, 3 axle), both flat nosed and with hoods, and been able to blend or hide the paint line.) This does entail using the proper Reducer for the temperature and humidity, and also some very spirited running around, but you ~CAN~ do it. I'll wager that most painters would rather shoot another complete coat of paint rather than waiting to sand/polish a dry line out of an enamel paint job. (It can take as much as a couple of weeks or more, before the paint is hard enough to buff/sand/polish.) With PRIMER on the other hand, a dry-line is not as problematic. You will ~usually~ be wet-sanding the primer anyhow (for a completely smooth finish). However, if you are using a Primer/Sealer or a non-sanding Sealer you also want to avoid a dry-line. So, back to the masking...... In the example of the flat piece of metal, the paint that is being blown at the piece, will at the edges of the piece, curl back and impact the lower edge of the piece. When you're shooting the first side it doesn't make much difference since you'll be shooting more paint over the dry line there, BUT, when shooting the last side....you need to protect the front. This is where the different techniques for masking come in. I've seen a straight line break, as I mentioned, this is simply masking applied to the side you don't want paint to touch. This forces the painter to paint past the edge and push the dry line onto the masking (even if it's on the other side). When dry, the transition between the final coat and the previous coat is next to imperceptible. There CAN be an edge, if you apply the paint very thickly, but there are even techniques in removing the masking that will allow this edge to even out, OR you can "knock" it down. Knocking it down is where you literally sand/buff it off. There are other techniques, which may be close to what your buddy did. I've seen masking tape bent at a 90° and taped to provide a "fence" which causes the air flow to swirl and not allow much of the paint to stick. Some does, but the amount is reduced significantly. Putting a foam tube, or as your friend did, a rolled piece of masking tape, also creates an air spoiler which won't allow the paint droplets to blow in there. (Note: the painter would obviously NOT aim directly at any of these masking lines, as that would defeat them.) In fact, you can buy foam in long tubes with adhesive on one edge to put on the inside edge of the door jamb. This allows some paint to creep past the obvious sheet metal edge, yet fade away as it gets closer to the foam. Additionally, the foam prevents paint from blowing into the jamb area with the door / hatch / hood in place. Hope this helps. Enrique

Depends on where your paint break line will be. You only need to mask off what you don't want painted. That's obvious. What isn't obvious is if you are doing a color change or not. If you are, and you're only painting door jambs to match color, do you want the paint break line under the weatherstripping or at the edge? Masking doors also implies that you have removed the doors, or are planning to keep opening and closing as you paint the jambs first, then block out the overspray on the outside or if you're going to blend it in while it's still wet. Are the doors gutted? If not, are the door panels still in place? (You'd be surprised how often people try to REALLY short-cut the process for a good job.) Remember, you can mask it, but once you get paint on the masking, you have to be careful of what comes into contact with the masking. You don't want to spend a bunch of time masking the door panels if by doing so, the first time you close the door, in order to walk away or between shooting an exterior coat, you smudge the jambs because of the way you masked. All of these "if's" are based on your experience in geting around the paint booth, and knowing what sequence to paint in. Personally, if you're shooting jambs to match color, shoot them separate, allow to dry after having masked the EXTERIOR surfaces of the car. Allow paint to get to the edge. After paint's cured, remove masking, final prep the exterior and mask the door CLOSED using foam or 2" mask that you push up into. A paint line on the edge of the door is extremely easy to hide, and is usually invisible. Now presuming that you haven't removed the quarter windows: As far as masking, if you're hiding the break line in the seam under the weatherstripping, as Lance pointed out, use 2" Masking taped to the INSIDE of the weatherstrip flange edge. Lay your masking paper using the edges for straightness and push up onto the exposed masking adhesive. To trim edges, push lightly on the mask allowing the sheet metal edge to stand out and using a sharp blade trim the excess. If you're hiding the break line on the exterior face of the weatherstrip flange, this time use the masking on the EXTERIOR of the sheet metal, putting the adhesive side TOWARDS the interior. This method allows for full sheets of mask to be used, with very little, if any trimming. When "closing", you're basically "closing the flap" on the access hole you had been using to apply pressure front and back to the mask and the adhesive tape. On the "flap" fashion a loop of masking tape, and use this as a "handle". Pull on the handle - gently- and it will usually hold the flap up against your prior tape well enough that you should be able to exert at least ~some~ pressure. Top the seam off with a quick strip from the outside and you should be fine. Enrique

Mark: A7DZ just ordered a new hood from Datsun. I ~believe~ he said it was something like $350 or so plus shipping. I may be way off. Enrique

Plumber's Putty. It's cheaper, won't get rock hard over time, and it's waterproof. E

Zak: Not sure if the Varsol will affect the POR. Since you did use the Metal Ready to prep the metal you ~should~ be ok, but then again.....??? I'm personally not familiar with Varsol, but from your comment I presume it is some form of Wax and Grease remover or simple degreaser. As such, if it is water based, then the wash with Metal Ready should have removed any residue. If it is oil or mineral spirit based, then maybe not. POR's Marine Clean is a STRONG degreaser. So strong that I recommend using a pair of dishwashing gloves (the thicker the better) with it. If you don't you will definitely degrease your fingers. As far as the Tie-Coat....excellent stuff. You can also use a regular spray gun to apply this. One of the biggest disadvantages of POR is that you either have to top coat it during it's curing process....or .... face having to sand it. Believe me, it is no joke. Sanding POR is plainly put....a b!tch. Tie-Coat on the other hand, DOES bond with the POR after it's cured, and will then allow you to wet sand smooth and apply your favorite top-coat. Beandip and I used this method in the engine compartment of his car. Looks great. You CAN skip the Tie-Coat, but then you MUST apply your top-coat directly to the POR while it is still curing. They mention a "finger-drag" to determine if it has set enough to accept the paint. That is, it is still sticky enough to accept the paint, but not hard enough to not mix with it. Their Fuel Tank Liner material is also an excellent product. Although the quart can is more than you need for a single tank (I did two tanks, and still had left over), I'm not sure if the Motorcycle tank size would not be enough. FWIW Enrique

Oh boy! Now I'm on the spot..... Bob, trying to determine the best product amongst the literally hundreds of products out there, all claiming to be the best, is literally a fool's errand. That is, if you go by THEIR claims. You'll find that they're ALL unsurpassed, amazing, unbelievable and unbeatable. The other problem is that you either wait ten or more years between application and determination of product's worthiness or you go by what other's have done. And then you have to decide. I've not worked with Eastwood's product. That being said, I'll state that I've no doubt that their product IS good, if only because they don't just pick any product to put in their catalog. If memory serves, they used to carry POR YEARS ago, and dropped it when POR began distributing on their own, and not relying on the exclusivity that Eastwood may or may not have required. Again, that's pure vague memory....and I'll gladly rescind it if proved incorrect. However, I HAVE worked with POR, and compared to all the different products that I've tried over the years (25 or so), I would say that it is one of, if not the BEST of, all the PROVEABLY effective products out there. Much of rust protection is simply how well the paint adhere's to metal. Metal does not willingly accept a paint coating, and in fact you have to use a special coating that etches onto the metal and then bonds onto that etching. That's why you use an etching primer as your base, and then your color paint or another coat of a fill primer. But they all start out with the etching primer. POR applies over a surface that's been degreased (Marine Clean) and then etched (Metal Ready). Once you apply it, it literally becomes FUSED to the surface. This is where I can give you two examples of how strongly this stuff adheres. I bought a pair of replacement fuel tank straps from a boneyard. Since the originals were still on the car, I cleaned and prepped the new ones, and when the tank was removed for it's coating of POR Fuel Tank (the original reason I'd even looked into the product line), simply put the old ones to the side. Weeks later, when I was replacing the tank, I placed, bent and otherwise fitted the "new" tank straps to their task. They were the wrong length, so I figured I had installed them backwards, and removed and straightened and re-bent them but this time for the other position. Still no go, because they were for a later year Z. So out they came and for plain old sh*ts and giggles I bent them in a couple spots to 180° and straightened them out. The POR did NOT crack nor flake off. To me that's exactly what I want. The other item are the "oops" spills on my driveway....close to 5 years ago. They've been subjected to unobstructed UV whenever the sun shines. Now, granted, I AM in the Pacific Northwest and it does rain a lot, but we DO get some sunshine here and there. Even after repeated pressure washes the POR refuses to budge. And remember this, the floor (concrete) wasn't prepped to receive it. Although it may be that other's would deny my "testing" (if you want to call it that), I'll also state that in the areas where I've gone back to do further work that required GRINDING the POR off......it wasn't easy to do so. This stuff literally sticks to the metal as if it were....glued on. Then when you remember that this stuff is a derivative of Super Glue, you get an idea of how tenaciously it grips. I can relate with having to use a nail pick to punch a hole in it. I did not know that when I did my interior. As a result, I painted everything everywhere. The end result? When I tried to reinstall items onto the car I could NOT just force the screw into the hole and force it to bite into the thread forcing the paint out. It simply would NOT happen. I stripped a couple of screws. Out came the Tap and Die set and even then it wasn't easy to cut through the POR. That POR stuff is some tough sh*t!!! Now, in reply to your implied question of "Which one is better?", I'll say....check back in about another 5 years, and we can then decide if the next check should be in another......10 or more. So far I'm extremely pleased with the results. FWIW Enrique

Good write up. Revisiting a "previous" topic when you spell it out as you have is actually visiting it "properly". Good work. Enrique

If they get more than just ONE car at a show in Gary's color, they'll have to issue sunglasses at the gate... As far as being seen.....not blending in "for safety concerns".....that it definitely does. I think even the firemen with their yellow trucks notice this paint job. :love: And as far as Gary's "And I must say I don't mind that. " comment? Heck, all you have to do is mention how bright his car is and his waist drops 20", his chest puffs out like a bloated throat pigeon and the only thing missing is for him to be strutting around saying..."I'm bad! I'm bad!" 2¢ E

Good abrasive material, whether sand, oxide, glass, or nut shells should'nt need to be screened in order to be used....but...it isn't a bad idea to screen it anyhow. That just simply ensures you that there are no "clumps" to surprise you. You CAN use "el-cheapo" playground sand....IF....and that is a big if...you take precautions. As Zsaint mentioned, you'll need to sift it and ensure it IS dry. If it has ANY kind of moistness in it...it will clump, and usually at the most inopportune moment AND deepest in the equipment. You'll also want to use a good dust mask. Playground sand will undoubtedly have a lot of Quartz in it, which when pulverized means Silica dust floating in the air. You don't want to inhale that dust. You'll want to build a containment screen. Whether that's a full blown tent or simply a tarp screening your blow-by from scattering to the 4 winds is up to you and your situation. But it CAN be done. Look in my gallery for my sand-blast booth in my driveway. Good Luck Enrique

Toni: There have been several new members from Vancouver and Portland in the last couple of weeks. Welcome to the club. I would venture to say that just about all the items you've mentioned are repairable, replaceable or fixable. Personally, I would keep it the original color. I'm partial to 920 Gold as your avatar shows, but that's because I own one in the same color. There are also other colors which are equally nice, but just remember that if your intent is to retain value, any paint job you do must be COMPLETE in order to pass as "original". That means removing engine, interior, etc. in order to get paint everywhere the original paint was applied. As far as an Automatic versus Manual...again matter of choice. There are no identification numbers to belie which one came with the car, but there are many little items which will give it's true venue away to a knowledgeable person. Personally, when I found my first Z, I was disappointed in that it was AT, now I am not complaining. Not sure what holes you are referring to in the rear deck. Are you referring to the tool box covers or the rise from floor pan to rear deck? Again, depending on your intentions, they can be repaired. Again, Welcome. Enrique

Don't know where you would have seen the resistor left in the circuit with an electronic module, but DO get rid of it. Since it is IN the path from Ignition Switch to Coil (with a detour to the Tach), you can't just disconnect it. You basically connect both wires going to it, and effectively remove it. However, with the problems you are mentioning, I'm wondering if you don't have something else reversed. The simplest connection is +12v to the + side of the coil (this bypasses the ignition switch and the tach, and as long as you didn't disconnect the rest of the wiring harness you should still be able to turn the key and use the starter. You can also plug in a remote starter switch. Before you start wiring, I would double check the wiring to the coil and the electronic module. It just seems extremely spooky that the resistor should smoke like that....then again a brand new resistor with a thin coating of oil WOULD burn that off once the key was in the Run position. Remember the resistor's job is to reduce the 12v down to 6 or so. The reason the resistor is basically a coiled wire is so that it can dissipate the energy absorbed as HEAT. HTH E

You have a "module" AND you have the resistor? Aren't you asking for problems? The resistor was in place to reduce the voltage to the points while the engine was running (it got bypassed in Start mode). Keeping the resistor after changing the dizzy to electronic mode is simply going to starve the module (IF it runs at all). 2¢ E

Not sure if the horn relay provides constant power or "stutters" it. (i.e. Not a one time connect, but a series of "on-off" bursts as long as the relay is activated.) Maybe someone can chime in with that. IIRC older horns required the "chatter" relay in order to sound. Remember horns are like speakers,the current to them isn't just "on", it fluctuates. Not sure if the Z had horns with the later armature. But, to check which way to save money, put a test light into the circuit AT the horn's location and have someone actuate the horn button. Whether you get light or not will tell you if it is the horn or the circuitry (with a possibility of it STILL being the horn). Then again, there's the ubiquitous "Did you check the fuse?" HTH Enrique

When you replaced the switch, did you make sure you got all the grounds and other wires that cross connect the turn signal to the headlight / wiper switch connected properly? Remember, the switch only switches the GROUND for the headlights, if the ground isn't hooked up right, you won't get any headlights. E

Zsaint: The two screws referenced are the two bottom ones on the Heater Control Panel. Additionally, you also have to remove the knobs from the radio (just pull gently), then remove the two flat nuts on the shafts protruding through the Face Plate. You should now be able to remove the rest of the Heater Control Panel, and then the radio. Russell: There actually WAS a radio bracket in the later Z's, 72 and 73. This bracket suspended the back of the radio up and away from all the wiring behind the fuse box. The bracket is very similar to one used on the 260's, but has a narrower width. E

Disconnect the Negative Pole cable AT the battery. Put a 12v Test Lamp with one lead on the battery and one on the battery cable. (don't use a powered test light, basically you're inserting a plain old 12v bulb) With the ignition off, key out: If the bulb glows AT ALL, you have some form of current draw occurring when it shouldn't. Start with the most common suspect, the accessory relay. On a 70-72 this is mounted on the passenger side kick panel. (Not sure whether Driver or passenger on RHD cars, BUT it IS on the kick panel.) It's usually simplest to first disconnect the relay, then effect the current test above. If the light is now OFF, then you've found the culprit. If on the other hand it is still glowing, then proceed on down the line. Basically, disconnect items, and check for current. Once the glow stops, you've found the culprit. FWIW E

OR.... You could see about buying an "old" style fuse box from either a boneyard or another member and checking out Dave's(Zs-ondabrain) Headlight and Parking Light Relay harness upgrade kits. The money you would spend would be about ... the same, give or take, and you would REALLY be correcting / improving the system. Just my 2¢ Enrique

If you replaced the original 45/50 W headlamps with some higher power units, then you're probably having trouble due to the excess current that's flowing through your wiring. Check the fuse box, make sure you haven't melted it. Then check the wiring at the switch area again, except this time check the dimmer switch which is on the Turn Signl Switch. FWIW Enrique

Too Intense also has the foam kits. If you're using a little carpet shampooer, just make sure you don't use the powered brush attachment. My Lil Green Machine just basically squirts the soap solution and then vacuums up the water and soap. I've not had a problem with it damaging the cloth seats on any of my cars. Granted the Z is vinyl, so I haven't squirted the foam in a Z seat, but it shouldn't be such a vastly different material that it would dissolve with the mild soap you're using. You can also first wash with plain old warm water. You'd be surprised at just how much dirt you can get off with plain old warm water. FWIW Enrique