EScanlon

From his description of losing BOTH the Heater Fan AND the interior lights, I'm wondering if you recently installed a new radio or done some work in that area. Both items, Heat. Fan and Int. Lights get their power THROUGH the Ignition Switch The Heater Fan has an In-Line Fuse instead of being fused through the fuse box. Check that fuse also. If that fuse is OK, then more than likely you lost the connection FROM the Ignition Switch TO the Heater Fan and then to the fuse box. You can also confirm this by checking for power between the terminals of the AC fuse in the fuse box. FWIW Enrique

Are you sure it's the tach that's bad? How about the ignition wiring. Did you upgrade to the electronic dizzy? Are you using the E12-80 module? What about the original resistor? I've seen more tachs get replaced because the wiring was set up wrong after the electronic dizzy change than tachs that went bad. Also, not sure why you would want the 3 wire, wasn't that in the 260 or the 280's? E

Emphasis mine. This says it most accurately. The emphasis I placed on: Intense, Wrong and Excessive are all words that can be inserted into just about any process and render it ..... harmful. If you insist on micro-examining every possible way in which something can be done wrong.....well you might as well do nothing, since there isn't any process to remove rust that isn't in SOME manner.....harmful.... if viewed through the wrong point of view. Are you removing metal? Yes, but metal that has rusted. Is it possible to reverse the rusting process? Possible...maybe. Practical? Probably not. Then again, how much did you want to spend on it? If money isn't a consideration, then heck, get a hold of Nissan and ask them how much it would take to build you a brand new never molested Datsun 240 Z of 1970's vintage. The bottom line in any of the processes being discussed; sandblasting, undercoating, bondo, welding, brazing, etc, is that it needs to be done PROPERLY and CORRECTLY. There are various methods for any one of the items I mentioned, but your expertise, funds, time, and WHERE you have to work, all play a factor in how well the job will be done. A7DZ's comments are on-line as well. WHY you are doing something is as important as HOW you are doing it. If it were in fact EASY, then ANYONE could do it. The methodical care in HOW you do it is what distinguishes a craftsman and a back-yard hacker. I think that in the majority of these processes the key lies in being careful and not get overly agressive. FWIW Enrique

HKSZ makes a good point, if your system is the vacuum operated one, it may be as simple as a leaky hose or a disconnected one. If on the other hand it is the lever / cable operated system present in the earlier cars (240's), then I would suggest you check the water check valve on the side of the unit and make sure that it IS being opened. If the lever for the temperature DOES move the valve plunger in and out, then you may have to check if the heater core is plugged or if the hoses upstream of the heater are plugged / kinked. Post some particulars so that we can help you get this fixed before the REALLY cold weather sets in. E

Carl That last post is worthy of a "Tech" Article. Very well put. Enrique

As Arne posted on mcguire240z's post, check the wiring to the coil from the tach. Sounds as though you may have the wires reversed, i.e. the RUN wire is on the START. This usually happens when you connect the Green / White Wire going to the resistor under the coil to the coil instead of to the Black / White wire which was on the other side of the resistor. It can also happen if you have the wrong Black/White wire connected to the Green/White. 2¢ E

Good call Arne. He didn't explain whether the car was running after the electronic dizzy was changed, and what you wrote is what came to mind right away. E

If the tires are indeed Bridgestone, if I recall correctly Kats (member in Japan) is very interested in those. DO post the particulars on them, as he would be ecstatic if you would be willing to exchange them. Enrique

Rolf: Did not see the original post in time to answer. The Red and Yellow wires you found are for the Buzzer that alerts you to your Ignition Key still being IN the Ignition / Steering Lock and the door is opened. The buzzer was normally mounted on the framework that supports the steering column. The switch for it is in the Ignition / Steering Lock housing, typically two wires protruding from the lock cylinder area up top by the key opening. Many people disconnected theirs back in the 70's. Since you don't have (and possibly don't want) this buzzer, simply do as 240zx mentioned, tape the leads with electrician's tape, but don't connect them. Enrique

Vancouver, WA here. E 71 Gold; 72 Orange, 73 Red 68 Roadster 2000

Gregg: I think you may find that the ONLY way you are going to be able to open the hood again, is to attack it from the front. If pulling on the Hood Open Cable doesn't do it, then you've either forced the hood shut, such that now it's actually being pushed upwards by the cowl weatherstrip and the hood bumpers and adjusting bolts, or the hood latch pin is off center on the locking mechanism and no amount of jiggling it is going to get it to release. You could try to yank on the release cable, and may find yourself having to buy a new one. Trying to reach it from below may work....if you have long skinny arms and can reach up from below, past the exhaust manifold, the fuel lines, brake lines etc, and THEN find the cable end inside the latch mount. But, if it is indeed stuck, then you're just going to find that you're still shut out and now you're even more frustrated. So, from the FRONT of the car, remove the bolts holding the hood to the hinges. This ALONE may be enough to shift the hood enough to allow it to release from the latch. If it doesn't, then you need to prop the FRONT of the hood as high as you can without bending or forcing the metal. Then reach in from the side, or from below if you can reach that high, and using a 10mm wrench (or ratcheting wrench, a regular ratchet/socket is too tall), remove the bolts holding the hood latch pin on the hood. Don't waste time on the hood latch itself, as releasing it won't release the pin. By removing the pin from the hood, you'll be able to re-mount the hood onto the hinges and open it. FWIW E

With the rarity of Body Solder Men approaching Hen's Teeth proportions, 15-20 thousand may be cheap. Are you sure you know what you're asking for? Why such a strict avoidance of Bondo? Those are the first things that come to my mind. Good luck in your search. E

The Reclining mechanism in the EARLY 71 cars was operated by a ROUND KNOB on the inside (side opposite the door) of the seat. The knob was on the side of the Back Rest. The Reclining mechanism on the LATE 71 cars was operated by lifting a LEVER on the door side of the SEAT. If you have the LEVER then there are some reproduction covers available (I need to check the URL.). E

Gus: If your brother had the Car imported TO Germany while he was in the service, he may want to check the regulations on disposition of that vehicle. Additionally, since he's selling it, it implies that he has another car...possibly to return to the U.S. with? If that's the case, have him check into making sure the vehicle passes U.S. Import requirements BEFORE it leaves Europe. When I was in the A.F., there were numerous times that you would see people's belongings in the DRMO (Defense Reutilization Marketing Office). These items were items that people would bring to the U.S. only to discover that they hadn't obtained material that was upgradeable to U.S. standards and/ or unuseable. Televisions, and VCR's (I know, passé), were the items most often being discarded...at pennies on the dollar simply because Europe televisions receive on a slightly different set of wavelengths, and the U.S. does not. Yes...you can "repair" the T.V., for more money than it costs to buy a new one.....unless you had it done in Europe. Where the kit is cheap. Same thing on the vehicles. A car bought from the dealer's floor in Europe, in some instances at prices thousands cheaper than here in the U.S. is an inviting temptation. Buy a car cheaply, import it into the U.S. ... for free... then sell it. Only to discover that the reason the car is so cheap in Europe, is that they don't have the 1500 certifications that the U.S. requires before you can import it. So you insist and then discover that the government will have you post bond in the amount of the repairs AT the dealer in the U.S.. So now they have your vehicle until it passes customs and YOU pay the bill. Don't want the car? OK, we'll just ship it back to Europe at YOUR expense. Or you can abandon it, and we'll dispose of it for you. And that's when you see them in the DRMO yards. This is what honestly happens, simply because people fail to check WITH the dealer in Europe that their car is IMPORTABLE to the United States. A little precaution now..... HTH E

Eric: I won't pull a Tonya on you and tell you to use the search button. PUSH in on the knob, TURN the knob slightly, REMOVE by sliding it off. But do familiarize yourself with the Search feature... E

Looks like a standard driver's side arm-rest (Left). A bit on the deformed side (curve in it) but otherwise stock. HTH E

That does make sense, but I've never stood still long enough. So tell us, how did it feel to stand still in the rain for so long? Or is this another one of your "I've never done it, but I've heard, so I speak with authority" experiences? E

That color is 920 Gold, an original Series I color. It grows on you. I should know. E

I was using the wiring diagram from my FSM to trace all that out. It concurs with the one in the original Clymer's. I use both because the FSM manual for my year doesn't include the Accessory Relay in the diagram, nor info about the AT's. This could well be a case where the wiring is different for short lengths, but not overall. I've had that happen with several cars. I also note that the diagram you are using is one that is similar to one I found at AutoZone (or some such), and while they're very good and complete, there are just a few differences. Sadly, even the FSM has errors in it. Sometimes these errors never got corrected in subsequent editions. I mentioned one above, and there's at least one or two more IIRC. Good to point that difference out, however, as it would certainly befuddle anyone looking at the connector (if it applied). E

Oops, I'd already started my reply when I noticed this other post. I've edited the original link and here's the correct one: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=169368#post169368 E

Perry: The only reason I can think of that would cause what you post is that you have a crossed wire somewhere. Specifically the B/W wire should NOT actuate the starter. Let me describe the wiring at the Ignition Switch. This is accurate for the 70-73 years. The Ignition Switch, attached to the back of the Steering Lock on the Steering Column has the following FIVE (5) wires connected to it via a 2x3 Male Spade Connector. Black / Yellow (B/Y) Black / White (B/W) White / Red (W/R) Blue / Red (L/R) Green / White (G/W) Using Nissan's color legend initials. Their function / connection is: B/Y: When the Ignition Switch (IS) is in the START position, it routes power from the IS to the Seat Belt Sensor (K-18) Relay and / or the Automatic Transmission Switch Inhibitor, then to the Starter Solenoid. If either the SBS or the ATSI are open then no power and no start. This wire is only active in the START Detent. B/W: Routes power to the Resistor in the engine bay which then returns it to the Tach via a Green / White wire. That G/W wire then connects to the G/W wire also attached to the IS which also routes power to the Tach. The Tach then sends power to the Coil via a B/W wire. This B/W wire also powers the Flasher fuse at the Fuse Box. Also connected to this wire are: Kick Down Switch (AT Only), Oil and Temp Gauge Sensors. This wire is only active in the RUN detent. W/R: This wire brings power TO the ignition switch directly from the Fuse Box. It also shares power with the Accessory Relay. On most wiring diagrams the connection to that wire was not annotated, and is misleading. The wire DOES connect with the wiring going to the Acc. Relay. This wire is live ALL of the time and connects in all 3 detents: Accessory, Run and Start. L/R: Routes power to the Heater Blower, the Accessory Relay, and the Wiper and Accessory Fuses. This wire is only active in the RUN detent. G/W: Routes power to the Tach and then to the Coil. This bypasses the Resistor. Only active in the START detent. The reason you're having the "issue" you're experiencing is that you are NOT disconnecting the B/W and L/R when you're connecting the B/Y to the W/R. To connect a Momentary SPST switch for the Starter, you need to connect this downstream of a DPDT-Center Off switch. The DPDT-Center Off switch will have both center terminals connected to the W/R, then in the Upper two connections, the B/W and the L/R. In the Lower two connections you'll have the B/Y and the G/W. The B/Y will then be connected to the Momentary SPST. To actuate the system you'll put the DPDT-CO connecting the LOWER contacts, and then actuate the Momentary. This will power the G/W wire (and hence the coil) and allow you to momentarily power the starter via the B/Y. The engine will start, but no accesories will be powered. Then quickly flick the DPDT-CO to the opposite position (connecting the UPPER contacts) and you'll be able to power the accessories. I'm sure there's a way to make it so that you wouldn't have to flick the DPDT switch, but this will get you working. All of this having been written and re-checked, you might find that it isn't that hard to find a good Steering Lock Cylinder, and the Ignition Switch behind it. Heck, it might prove to be MUCH easier than re-wiring everything. But that's just my 2¢ E

To keep this in line, I'll post on the original Electrical Forum Post. Here's a link: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=169368#post169368 E