EScanlon

After seeing the numerous posts about mismatched and orphaned connections on the car's electrical system, it surprises me that either one of you would so cavalierly recommend NOT labeling. While it is true that AT the firewall/ Passenger side kickpanel, the connections pretty much pair themselves up autonomously, at the Fuse Box / Heater Control Panel area it is a completely different story. If you have an Automatic, you have an additional instrument light for the Gear Indicator. If it's a Series I console, the Lighted Rear Window Defog switch goes behind the Choke Lever. If it's a Series II console, then you probably have the Choke Switch wiring. If it's a 73 you have the additional wiring harness for the Lighted Heater Control Panel. The Fog Lamp circuitry also surfaces through there as well as the Electric Fuel Pump wiring. Toss all those together, add a not so gentle dash removal and see how easily even "experienced" Z folks get confused. While it can be a chore to label the connections, done carefully and with a bit of attention to permanence, it need never be done again. You don't have to ID each and every connector, as someone pointed out, use simple colored electrician's tape. Red goes to Red, Blue to Blue, for multiples of this, use two or more stripes. Or just write the alphabet on two pieces of masking tape. Match A to A, B to B, use a combination of letters and numbers if you need more than 26. (Take care of confusing I and lowercase L, cap I and cap H, O and Q, U and V.) But whatever method you use, if you label BEFORE you start to disconnect, you'll be able to reconnect much easier than trying to remember what went where. Especially if you're planning on removing the wiring harness from the dash to clean/paint/repair items. FWIW E

Couldn't open your .pdf. If I recall properly, there is NO screw holding the odometer shaft. Just push UP on the shaft end AFTER you've removed the knob. I'll check my FSM as well, but don't recall a screw holding that shaft in place except at the speedo. E I finally got your .pdf opened and that's when I remembered the change in position for the 77's from the earlier. You are correct, you need to remove the screw shown in the manual. The only way I can think of having done this on other cars is to use a 90° ratcheting screwdriver, to allow me to keep the bit in the screw with my thumb and use the other fingers to wiggle the ratchet. E

IMO: Having removed and installed both dashes and windshields, I think it would be much harder to install the windshield with the dash in place, than with it removed. But then that's been my experience since I haven't had to replace a windshield without having the dash out (Total Paint). But in thinking how easy removing/installing the dash can be (especially once you've "practiced" ) I'd probably opt for removing the dash just to ensure the ease of the windshield install (notwithstanding reducing the risk of breaking the windshield). But that's just MY 2¢ E

If the vinyl has already been removed from the foam center, then simply wash the vinyl with dishwashing soap inside and out. Set it in the sun to dry and it will do a great job of deodorizing it. As far as the foam, I've had excellent luck with a small carpet cleaner (Bissel Lil Green Machine) where I simply squirt and vacuum the cleaning solution through the foam. I suppose that plain old dishwashing liquid and water could be sprayed onto the foam, worked in and out of it, then simply vacuumed out with a shop vac. Allow it to air-dry and you'll be pleased with the results. Don't be misled by those know-it-nots who haven't any personal experience. Unless you had a body decay inside the car, or mold that infested every seam, nook or cranny of the vehicle, you can usually use plain materials to do wonders. 2¢ Enrique

The Knob for the Odometer is pressed onto the shaft of the cable. Just pull down on the knob head, and it should come right off. (It is a TIGHT fit, but not screwed, nor otherwise locked onto the shaft.) HTH Enrique

HKSZ: Here's a few links to several articles that address what you're doing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6981 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4429 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7291 HTH E

Out of Left Field: Does anyone know if the charges for e-Bay change between BIN and Auction? The speed of a transaction can play a LOT with the price. As WE know, there is no doubt there would have been an .... AUCTION.... and that's what we were hoping to see. BUT, have you guys seen ads that says "The First $400 takes it!" or ... <insert your favorite selling phrase here> and you WOULD give it to the first guy that gave you that amount just so you could be THROUGH with that item? Imagine being the seller: He's not interested in checking to see if the struts need this, or whether the flim flam detail is coherent with the strenous paperwork or whether........he wants so many bills of such and such a denomination and you don't need a bag. He's told you everything he knows about it truthfully, and he hopes it's enough for you to buy it or leave him alone. The BIN was set at a level for someone to say....YES! ... and get it out of my driveway, not in a week, not check under the rockers, pull up the carpet .... I want it gone.. NOW! Cheap? Yes, as far as we're concerned, but as Beandip put it, he may have just gotten out as fast as he wanted, and is happy about it. Or....as one enterprising young man found out after putting the Lotus in his girlfriend's name to avoid taxes, when she caught him messing around she sold it for $20, or was that an urban legend..... E

Not to mention that you'll be giving up the snow and all that fun! Good Luck on the move, I'd mention that you should drive by our neck of the woods, but Portland OREGON /Vancouver WASHINGTON aren't necessarily on the way. E

Might just be the screw that holds it onto the shaft that exits the speedo. FWIW

Everyone needs to read post number 1 that started this thread. The edit by DeltaDawn says everything! E

Why not have the kid pay (cash) for everything that needs repaired / replaced. Don't let him take it out of his "allowance" (YOU would be the one paying for it then), make him get out and get a job or something. A summer's worth of mowing lawns and doing fix up jobs for money would do him a world of good. Especially if there weren't any handouts from home to make it "easier". Heck, take back one of his Nintendo's, X-Boxes, or something of his that can be resold, and sell it. Tell him that he needs to come up with the ALL of the money somehow. And don't back down. Would you allow an "uninsured motorist" to walk away with a simple "I won't do it again."? And, literally, tell you to go shove the bills down your gullet? I don't think so. While you may think this is harsh, how harsh do you think it would be if he had STOLEN someone ELSE'S Z and done all that damage? The cruelest thing you can do for him right now is to let him off "easy". All you would be teaching him is that it's OK to take what he wants with impunity. Wait till he comes to someone else's neck of the woods and tries that. What will you do then? 2¢ E

So get out there and take Sam out for a ride! As the expression says "Enjoy the ride!" Sorry to hear, but don't mourn yet, go enjoy what time you still have. That you've been informed, as sad as it is, don't let it cloud the time you have left. "There'll be time enough for counting, when the dealing's done..." E

Weather strip adhesive and silicone each have their points. Where weather strip adhesive is more forgiving in disassembly, it's not as good at waterproofing. Where Silicone is great at waterproofing, it can be a literal "B!ch!@#" to cut past it before it gives up that last tiny strand of strength that allows you to finally......remove the lens. But, I'd already finished the light assy. and here in the N.W. I was more concerned about the constant dampness and was interested in keeping out moss and stuff. E

Found this while going through some paperwork. Hope it helps others: Hitachi Car Radio Model KM-1520ZC Operating guide. Will post more later, but for now: SPECIFICATIONS: CIRCUIT SYSTEM: All transistor superheterodyne with RM am. system TUNING RANGE: FM 88 ~ 108MHz; AM 535 ~ 1,605KHz TRANSISTOR: 13 IC: 1 DIODE: 9 THERMISTOR: 2 POWER SUPPLY: DC 12V negative ground CURRENT CONSUMPTION: 200mA (with no signal) AUDIO OUTPUT: 3.5W (THD 10%) LOUDSPEAKER: 5 1/8" PM 4 ohms ANTENNA: Power Antenna (RO-74B) WEIGHT: 2 lbs 14 oz. This is from the P7630871 Brochure from Hitachi LTD.

I used the Aquarium Silicone, just because that's what I had on hand. The main thing was that I wanted to SEAL the edge. Just about any kind of clear adhesive would do the job. E

I used plain old silicone. Be careful when you remove the little sheet metal nuts holding onto the chrome trim center piece. If you're not careful, you'll ruin the little legs and won't be able to put it back on properly. E

Guys: To me that cover looks as if it's been either powder coated or painted silver. The letters are obviously painted. E

I "ditto" what Stephen Blakeney said. And I think Arne may feel the same. Yes, there are some "mods", if you can call the period correct items true modifications. "Everyone" had mags on their Z, or Louvers, or tinted windows, or at least an upgraded stereo, or heck Fuzzy Dice! Other than those "mods" the cars were maintained in top notch mechanical condition....just not souped up. My car has get-up-and-go because that's the way the car was BUILT, not because I tweaked this or that. FWIW Enrique P.S. I voted Creature Comfort, cause that's how you feel when you ride MY Z!

You've got a Series I. They're more sensitive to money than the later models. In fact, the sensitivity goes down on the later models, until you get to the 300ZX's. Boy, those guys have SHOP-VAC Auto-Suck Money Detect. Anyone else? E

Bob: Glad to hear it! (Cue: Willie Nelson's "On the Road Again", Fade in, then out) One word of caution, NEVER leave your wallet on the console with ANY amount of money in it. The car can sense it and will promptly find a venue by which you will be forced to dispose of that cash. I've said this before to other members on this site, and there have been only a handful of reckless and foolish members that haven't heeded this warning. You'll know it's true by the number of "Me Too!" posts that this one will generate. E

Maybe you finally did some maturing. Your last post at least shows a glimmer of hope. The earlier stuff was worthy of a big thump on the back of your head. Next time you feel so "deprived", "unfortunate", and otherwise "shtty"; think of the OTHER 20 year olds in Iraq, Afghanistan, and other troubled parts of the world. Or better yet, check out the nearest homeless shelter. Or look at pictures of people in Africa, India, and other impoverished countries. Otherwise, when your Dad starts buying your little sister Bra's and Panties, we'll all chip in and buy you YOUR set. E

White-Walls with a BLOWER!! Can you say Sleeper?.......NOT!!! Can you imagine driving up next to this car at a light, you note the white wall tires and you might make some silly remark to yourself, then when you get even ...... ZOWIE.... A Blower!! And a BIG one at that!.... Ok, don't even think about blipping the accelerator...... Nice! But I bet you don't get too many offers for racing for pink slips...... Enrique

The Green and White with "554" on the windshield.... That front end with the bulges on the front quarter valances....excellent! If you look at it, it almost looks like a Shark or a Bird of Prey pouncing out of it's hole. E

Bravo!!! Excellent pics, definitely magazine quality. Thanks Enrique

Then strike a deal with someone near you who needs / wants a NEW bumper but is unwilling to pay the $300, whereas you will be, admittedly, mutilating it. (Sorry for the harsh tone.) I'd be willing to bet that someone would easily split the cost of a new one with you, AND give you their old "chrome not perfect but otherwise PERFECTLY dent and bend free" bumper! That way you'd get what you want - - a paintable bumper center, and the person who didn't want to pay full price would get to upgrade his bumper from a 10 footer to a perfect 2 footer for an exchange and a couple of bucks. That would be a WIN-WIN scenario for both of you. Heck, you might even get off easier since the older original chrome on the bumper wasn't as thick as the newer aftermarket ones might be and therefore your stripping cost / delay would be less. But to otherwise take a new bumper and destroy it .... intentionally.....~~SHUDDDER~~~ Enrique