EScanlon

Not sure if on the 77's they'd gone to a relay, but on the earlier Z's there definitely was NO relay involved. That's the cause of many of the problems for wiring and fuse melt-downs. The Combination Light/Wiper switch did the ACTUAL powering of the lights and the turn signal switch just redirected a small portion of the circuit. I'll have to check my archives for a 77 wiring diagram and I'll give you a more constructive answer. E

Bob Reason for so many views and no input is that you had already checked the switch, the flasher unit, wiring and fuses as well as for the presence of electricity, that pretty much covers all the bases. You had used actual numbers and terms that bespoke of your knowledge of them, so asking you to do something so basic as to ....check them again.....would have been insulting. Most of us know of the "standard" set of problems for a Hazard Switch. The Switch loses contact internally and won't power the flasher unit, the switch's contacts become corroded and only have sporadic contact, or only one side, or only if the brake light is depressed....... There just wasn't anything that came to mind as a "typical" problem item. Without further testing and spot checking, it becomes a guessing game as well as a laborious and aggravating game of "Guess My Line" (Pun Intended). I'm glad you got it fixed on your own, and your post does a good job of advising others. Sadly, if you had bought the car AFTER that heater valve scenario, then we'd just say, check all connections, because we'd STILL be stumped. ~shrug~ Sorry. And I hope that the lack of response doesn't jade you about the rest of the club. Heck, give us another chance, or better yet, let us break it so we can tell you how to fix it. FWIW E

Rick: You're right, and then again, it's hard to tell from the picture. Sometimes it is extremely hard to discern details that would help ID some of these items. E

The two rear ones actually look more like the holes for the Luggage Strap Hold Down. Not sure about the next one further back, unless it's for the Luggage Stop Bar. This was an aftermarket Chrome Bar that stopped your packages from sliding forward. The one on the hump looks like it could have been from the center console screw hole. Or from an "accessory" that someone mounted. E

No worries about that, we can type you through that. Do yourself a favor, open the gauges, clean them out, repaint the insides of the can with a bright white paint (careful of the green plastic lens for the instrument lamp) and you will absolutely LOVE the look. Keep careful track of all the ventilation tubes, their arrangement and positions. Then disassemble, clean inside and out with some good grease cutting dishwashing soap, allow to dry and then repair / patch any cracks / leaks. The end result is a car that ~almost~ smells new. Enrique

Hey Will! We both answered, but as I "putzed" around, I took longer on my reply. Geez, now Aunkie is going to be really p*ssed! E

The Trip Odometer Knob turns the whole CABLE. There is no sheath on that cable. The knob is splined female and the cable inserts into it and is held by pressure from the knob. Simply PULL DOWN on the knob, the cable collar should stop the cable from protruding through the dash padding and allow the knob to slip off the cable. Once you've done that, push the cable back UP into the dash cavity. Then reach from behind and pull it out of the hole it's in. If it's seriously STUCK, as in the cable will simply NOT release the knob, then you'll have to partially remove the speedo from the dash, and carefully remove the screw that attaches the Trip Odom. Cable to the Speedo back to release the cable. You'll have the speedo out of the hole with the trip cable still sticking back into the hole and then can you reach the screw. It's much MUCH easier to say/type than it is to do, and virtually impossible to do from behind the dash. The screw that holds the cable to the speedo is on the cable collar where it meets the speedo, and it clamps on the rod sticking out of the bottom of the speedo. They used a very small screw with a very soft head that will deform in nothing flat if you apply pressure off-axis, so be careful. Hope this helps. Enrique

I don't deal with carbs, but I have heard "these carbs are fitted at the factory so dont mix the parts" before. Keep the "front" carb parts separate from the "rear" carb, and additionally, apparently there is ~some~ difference between the front and back. Not sure of what it is, but I've heard it from knowledgeable mechanics. If you mix them, expect to have problems no matter what anybody tells you. 2¢ Enrique

Fusible link to start with, in fact, check the one from the battery to the starter as that is the main one for the chassis. After that.....? E

So now you want the CORRECT answer? Neither the Tach nor the Speedo go out the back on a 71. They both come out the front. The reason I mention that a Dash Cap could make for some fun is that the "cone" of the instruments is pretty snug within the opening of the dash. If you do have a Dash Cap, the amount of material that the cap inserts into the instrument opening, depending on the thickness of the cap and the transition from original material to the cap, will / may cause the tach/speedo to hang up. At that point you literally have to work the gauge out and push it past that necked down opening. Since I've already used more words than Auntie can handle, I'll explain the removal a bit better. From the BACK of the dash: You'll need to remove the two wingnuts holding the tach and speedometer (each has 2 wing-nuts) as well as the strap that connects the two. The speedometer is the only one with a cable attached to it, and that's screwed onto the back of the housing with a large diameter collar. There's also a smaller cable that's attached to the Trip Odometer Reset Knob on the Left side of the Steering Column. Simply pull down on the knob and the cable will slide up to the back of the dash area. The tach should only have a 4 wire connector (2x2 thin spade) going to it. No Cables, and no other connections other than the instrument lamps. The instrument lamps going to each should be easy to disconnect, just simply push on one side and they'll pop off. Once you have the lamps and the cable for the speedometer off, as well as having removed the wing nuts that hold them to metal straps attached to the dash, they SHOULD slide out the FRONT of the dash. You may have to push from behind, but that's all it should take. Hope that helps Enrique

Hey Mike: You need to make your hand very very small, then reach up behind the dash and unscrew the wing nuts holding it in the opening. Then just remove the tach through the front. Unless you have a dash cap, then it could get interesting. Don't forget to disconnect the wiring. Luckily with a 280 you CAN remove the tach. A 240 requires at least the wiring to be left behind. E

If the 73 DASH harness you have, has the wiring for the Intermittent Wiper, then you ALSO need the 73 Headlight/Wiper Switch as well as the Engine Harness. That's because the Engine Harness has the plug for the wiper and also has the second half of the Seat Belt Warning system that the Dash has the front half for. The other component for the Seat Belt Warning system is the Rear Harness, as that has the wires that connect to the Seat Sensors and the Seat Belt Reel Sensors. To check if you have the 73 Intermittent Wiper Harness, check the main plug for the combination (Light/Wiper) switch. If it is a 9 (Nine) THIN Spade connector, three by three arrangement; instead of being a 6 (Six) Spade connector (Regular width), two layers of three spade connectors; then it IS the Intermittent Wiper Harness. You will have ALL sorts of fun trying to get this harness to work with the engine compartment's harness. As Arne mentioned, that you have a warning buzzer going off....(and I'm not familiar with an ALERT buzzer, Seat Belt, Key-In yes, but not an Alert) means you definitely have some cross connecting going on that shouldnt be. Check your grounding cross-connect at the combination to turn signal as well as the other cross connections there. Hope this helps. Enrique

Your satellite picture and your car icons make it seem as though that road is a SINGLE lane in each direction. However, by looking at the pick-up and cars in the picture, it appears that the road is actually TWO lanes in each direction. But it's hard to tell for sure. If it is indeed 2 lanes in each direction, or at least on the side of the road that the Celica was on, then the Celica was going through the intersection properly. That you were waved through by that other car is irrelevant, as you are responsible for clearing the other lane's traffic (i.e. YOU are crossing his natural and normal line of travel). If the road is a single lane for the Celica, and she drove through a "parking" lane, or the curb/side of the road and then into the intersection could she be held at fault. That is, she passed on the right AND she wasn't on the proper road. If there was a person in the Crosswalk, and depending on local statutes, only YOU may or NO cars may enter the intersection. But, that's just opinion based on hearsay. Sorry to hear about it. E

Nice Fuel Rail mod! But, I think the wireless distributor / coil is of even more interest! Or the Tire Valve for pressurizing the vacuum system with the cute blue cap! J/K E

Vicky: It's hard to tell, but it kind of looks like a cannon plug in for a CB Radio Microphone. Not the hang-clip, but where you would plug in the microphone to the base unit. (Some of the CB's back then had the "brains" of the CB in the Microphone for channel selection, squelch etc. By removing the mike, you rendered the radio inoperative.) Ed, looked at the pic and couldn't see anything. Carl, since it sold, it must have been some exceptional lipstick. E

Geez Unkle, why not advise him to wear an Ebola proof Anti-Radiation Suit with a self-contained respirator and handle the switch with remote control waldoes? While I agree with the precautions you are taking, it begins to sound as though you don't want to move too quickly for fear of it blowing up. Tyler: Disconnect the car's electrical system from the battery by disconnecting the Fusible Link by the Starter. Once that's done the electrical system in the car is DEAD. Now, remove the clamshell around the Steering Lock / Ignition Switch. Disconnect the electrical connector (6 spade) at the back of the Ignition Switch. Then, if you can see them, remove the two Phillips Screws holding the Switch to the Steering Lock Housing. You can now replace that switch with a new(er) one. The problem with the switch is that it was never crimped tight and over the course of the years, the contacts have gotten worn and now, to make matters worse, the crimp on the metal is starting to allow the Bakelite to rotate a bit. That rotation can be severe enough that it almost seems as though the switch has been turned one position over. This electrical switch was used in various other Datsun/Nissan models so you shouldn't have too hard of a time finding a replacement. FWIW Enrique

True names from my Air Force Days. Good guys all, but interesting names. James Blow, he had either a cousin or a brother named Joseph. Robert Outhouse, he didn't care if you razzed him or not, as he was in charge of the Deployment Safety Briefing Board and you couldn't process through without his ok, nor go off-duty after 12 hours unless he okayed it. Gregory Prude, but pronounced Pru-day, he was my BMTS training instructor. He used to say that he was one step away from God as far as we were concerned, and he didn't care how we "heroes" pronounced it as long as we said "SIR". His favorite expresion was "Boy, did you travel a thousand miles JUST to p*ss me off?" E

HAHAHA! Stephen: I at least maintained the thread with the SAME car.....at least I think I did! E

Camo: THIS is the picture you SHOULD have posted: http://photobucket.com/albums/y284/dcbelisario/?action=view&current=Picture085.jpg 2¢ E

Rain-X for the exterior of the glass is an outstandingly EXCELLENT product. I use it and heartily recommend it. This is the stuff in the YELLOW plastic bottle. On the other hand, the "Anti-Fog", in the BLACK bottle, for interior windows is literally....garbage. I used it on my daily driver Acura some years ago. It never worked as advertised, caused glare at night AND during the day, and was totally IMPOSSIBLE to remove from the interior of the windshield. When my windshield finally cracked due to a rock chip that went too far was when I was finally able to get rid of it. So, voice of experience here, do NOT use the interior Anti-Fog or you WILL regret it. But as far as whether you need to have the intermittent wipers or not, granted that the boxes are ..... well, ugly, here in the Pacific North West, we don't really get .....Rain. We get more of this constant drizzle - mist - light spray. Just enough to thoroughly coat a windshield (with or without Rain-X) with tiny little droplets that .... eventually, coalesce into a few drops that can be whisked away. The Rain-X does a great job in that they'll whisk off at lower speeds than if you don't have it, but you STILL find that wiping is more of a necessity than an option. The intermittent wipers would be a good idea, but be careful that you don't rob the motor of any current. It's slow enough as it is, and a system that operates within the same circuitry may rob it of what little current it gets. Maybe this is Dave's next Relay Harness upgrade? Then we can upgrade our wipers from Slow and Slower, (aka: "Are you sure they're moving?") to a more respectable speed, and if Dave does his usual good job, he'll toss in intermittent wipes!!! E

I have a couple of those synthetic shammies, and I use them on the interior plastic panels, dash, and other areas where I do want an absorbent cloth and don't want to risk tearing or soiling the chamois. They work real well on rubber trim and other parts. But as far as the exterior paint and glass, I have the largest true chamois I could find. I think it's about 5 sq. ft. or so (20" or so wide, by 30" or so long), and it was the thickest one in the store at the time. I also have a wall mount wringer, bought it through McMaster-Carr years ago, but it pays for itself in how I can wring out my chamois, sponges, cloths, etc.. The synthetics do a good job of drying and absorbing, but unlike a chamois which can literally get to the dripping stage and not leave streaks of water behind, the synthetics seem to ALWAYS leave a streak. I think it's something to do with the basic nature of the leather which the synthetics can't imitate. Like you, I've bought at the state fair and have my "12-pack" of synthetic shammy cloths....which have slowly been used up. I may have to replenish this year. But I have a pair of chamois leathers that go back 15 years, and another one that goes back 8. The trick is in caring for them and in allowing them to dry. FWIW Enrique

I posted my request for Car Detailers, kind of tongue-in-cheek. The reason for that is that a GOOD Car Detailer knows that there ARE tricks to saving time and effort in order to get a superb job, and wannabe Detailers are constantly trying to find ways of short-cutting the job.....period. If you did in fact do a good job compounding and polishing, then from what I learned while at the body shop, DEFINITELY do some form of washing. Whether it's a thorough rinse only or the full soap/sponge soft scrub and then a full and thorough copious water rinse, what you will be removing is whatever contaminants/compound you did not whisk away in your prior step. I was taught to have the CLEANEST possible surface for EACH and EVERY step of the job. Whether it was for Primer, Bondo, Paint, Clear, Rubbing Compound, Wax, you want it clean-clean-clean. Overkill? Possibly, but the difference is visible.....to the trained and observant eye. It does take a bunch of time, and yes lots of effort, but that's why some Car Detailers get $150+ PER job. Unfortunately, there's a bunch of "just-as-good" product advertisements out there. Heck, there's even a product to Wax AND Wash your car in ONE step. Does it work? Yes, it does, as long as the base paint and finish are in excellent condition. But if it isn't, and/or the paint needs help, then you need to spend the time. You're half way there now in revitalizing a 30+ year old paint job, might as well finish it properly. (At least properly as in what I was taught.) So using copious amounts of water, and just a capful or so of car soap in a 3 gallon bucket, wash that car. Start by wetting the whole car, then squish a big soft sponge into the soap suds and start at the roof. Work your way down the car keeping the sponge filled to the dripping point. When you run out of suds in the sponge, and you're not trying to SAVE the suds, RINSE again from the top of the car. Use the "FLOOD" or the "SHOWER" setting on your nozzle and let the water literally flood the suds off. Re-fill your sponge and continue from where you had run out. When you rinse, rinse from a point HIGHER than where you ran out of suds. Remember, the soap is there to allow whatever dirt/contaminants to "slide" off the car, the water pushes the suds off. When you've completely sudsed and rinsed the car, wet any panels that may have had the water sheeted off. Moisten your chamois and starting at the top, use it as a SHEET and sweep/absorb the water as you pull on the chamois. Don't let the chamois hit the car dry, and THEN soak up water. Wet the chamois to the drip point, then wring it out. If you have access to an old pair of washing machine rollers, then definitely roll/squeege the chamois. Don't use it bunched up, remember, you're using it to remove the last bits of moisture. Follow that with an air blower and a chamois to remove the last bits of moisture in all those seams/pits/catch-points. Your car should now be as dry as you can get it without waiting for the water to evaporate. If you're worried about water creeping into areas that "might" cause problems....that is, Rust, then you haven't finished protecting your car. Check to see if you can find and eliminate those areas. Then, IF the temperature is above 68°F (20°C), do your Wax job. If you let it get TOO hot, then expect to have to work the car in very small panels as the wax will flash quickly. If you try to work it at colder temperatures, then expect the wax to take forever to flash, and be ~extremely~ hard to remove (Be prepared for swirl marks galore). Above all these precautions, do NOT wash and wax in the full sun or on a HOT day. But that's what I learned at a body shop. E

Any Car Detailers want to chime in? E

Could be for the split in the section up front for the tool box lids. E

Now, you have to admit that a SEPARATE pocket for the speeding tickets they KNEW you were bound to get is downright ingenious!!! :laugh: E