EScanlon

I have two or three versions of that book and the one with the cover you posted is, in my opinion, a MUST have item. Again, IMO, that Clymer beats the Haynes, the Chilton and several other publications. In some respects it is as good as the Factory Service Manual and in others I think it's even better. There are diagrams and pictures not found in any other publication in that book. Sadly, later versions of that book, (same cover but now covering through the 260, and the Red cover with the same picture but now covering the 280) were "trimmed" and the information became so watered down that the Haynes became a better manual. That original version has diagrams for the individual wire and individual connections (whether single or multiple wire) that put in ONE book some of the service bulletins that Nissan put out. Check out the section on the Vent and Heater Hoses! I think you'll find that it is, literally, invaluable. Enrique

You might also check: www.z31.com and www.z32.com Don't know anything other than their URL's. I had been thinking of possibly buying a z32, but life got in the way. E

Don't forget other factors that may be influencing what they sell. Beandip recently went checking for 14" tires, and discovered that although they're ~still~ available, they're just not held in stock if they even have them. Most folks are going to larger tires, lower profiles. The 14" rim is slowly going the way of the old 12" rims simply because you can't get tires for it. 2¢ E

If you already have the Steering Lock off of the Steering Column, then what will befuddle you and take you literally, hours, will be a simple operation for him as a locksmith. He's probably NOT expecting you to take the cylinder out of the lock housing. 2¢ E

As far as your gauges, if I recall correctly, the gauges don't actually receive the signal from the sensors at the engine. The sensors are such that they change their resistance value based on temp or pressure, but I do not recall if the resistance goes up or down and from what initial value. It is the resistance to ground that either allows the gauge to deflect, or not deflect as much. As a result I don't know if you were to apply 12v+ to the Yellow Red wire and grounded or contacted the negative wire of your power supply to the Yellow wire that you wouldn't fry the gauge (zero resistance). The only way is for someone to check the resistance value of their sensors at off (cold) and at normal operating pressure/temperature. Then you could duplicate that resistance value and be able to test your gague. Till then .... E

The Fiber Optic Light Housing usually has two FO Strands connected to it. I have seen it with just one, but I think that was the exception. Look at the end of the FO Cable when the light is lighted. It won't be like a flashlight, but will cast a "glow" off the end of the cable. That's what illuminates the shell of the cigar lighter, and when it's fed through the Hazard Switch, the Green "Hazard" disk on the end of the knob. If you do not have any of the FO Cable on that light, then you are missing pieces. E

Exactly right. Here's an explanation from last year: HTH E

CAREFUL!! Yes, they DO just pull out.....but you have to make sure that the WHOLE emblem pulls away from the panel WITHOUT tilting it...that is, all edges up at the same time. The emblems are mounted with pins that protrude from the back of the emblem, these are in turn, inserted into barrel clips that both grip the pin AND the sheet metal. These clips have been known to weaken the pin, and therefore, can / will cause them to break if bent out of line. If you don't care that you may have to buy new emblems, just push a scraper underneath and push hard, you'll destroy the possibility of being able to put them back in the proper holes and you'll have no option BUT to use adhesive to hold the emblem on. Then just pull out the remains of the emblem pin in the hole and fix the rust. If you want to try to salvage the emblem, get a hold of a thin scraper blade with very flexible steel (I use a metal bondo spreader). Then carefully work it in and carefully around the edge of the emblem, your intent is to very slightly lift them and break any tension from paint (if emblems had been masked), wax, dirt, grease, etc.. DO NOT force the steel blade in. You're not looking to lift them just yet, just to break them away from the surface. An alternative to this is to use plain old dental floss. The difference being that you will undoubtedly shred a ton of it, so.... The intent is the same, break any "grip" the panel has on the emblem, while introducing a gnat's hair worth of space between the emblem and the panel. (Note to people who detail their cars a lot, this method with dental floss is one way of reducing the amount of "gunk" left at the contact edge of the emblem. Works best on smooth paint and emblems.) Depending on how much space you now have between the emblem and the panel, insert the blade or some paper or floss in between. You'll quickly be able to tell where you can insert and pull out the other side and where you won't. (Note to detailers: This is where I insert a piece of paper to allow me to insert my lifting blade and reduce / eliminate paint scratches.) Now you should be able to discern where on the emblem the pins are, and using your scraper lift gently around the pin, begin to lift the emblem. It should only take one or two gentle twists on the scraper for the emblem to move. At no point do you want to rush this, go back and forth on each pin and sooner or later it WILL pop off without harming the pins. If it doesn't, you might want to remove the hatch's vinyl panel cover. That way you should be able to see the pins directly and allow you to determine how to proceed. Hope this helps. E

Since you're only going to use it for a few items, go to Harbor Freight and get it for about a third (or less) the price of Sears. If you were going to be using this a LOT, then Sears' Lifetime Warranty on their tool would make it worthwhile to pay the extra. FWIW E

Based on what you've posted, it sounds as though the old drive is being recognized as being present, and with a different label (D:\). However, the computer is trying to do a Check Disk (CHKDSK) that it is unable to complete. That's probably due to errors in the FAT and as such it can't effect a proper check. Sometimes the drive CAN be read, and even accessed.....up to a limit. Check Disk and Scan Disk are both utilities that read the WHOLE disk, bit by biit. This causes a problem because the utility won't complete successfully if there is a problem that prevents it from executing and terminating it's complete program. So you try to step around it. I've been able to read sectors of drives that have been physically OPENED and SCRATCHED on the disk itself. Admittedly, there were so many problems with that disk, that it was way too much trouble, and we had a back-up. But, you MIGHT be able to rescue some data. Try the following. Boot up normally, but cancel the Check on the old Drive. Exit to MS-DOS, and at the prompt( C:\> ) change drives by typing in " D: " then key Enter. The Prompt should now read ( D:\> ) If it DOES: Change directories to the one that has the pictures in it. This can get tricky as DOS still does not recognize more than 8 characters for names, so you might have to pull a DIR / W to be able to read the name of the directory you want in proper DOS shorthand. Once you're at the directory with the pics, you can pull a directory to see just how much it can read. Once you know that it CAN read that directory, you're half way there. Change drives back to C:, then find or create a directory that you want to receive the photos. CD is shorthand for Change Directory, and MD is for MAKE Directory. Once you have C: ready to receive and the prompt shows that you are IN the directory that you want to receive the files, switch back to drive D: one more time. Now, at the ( D:\> ) Prompt, type: COPY *.* C: and key Enter. This will take a bit, but SHOULD copy all the files in the D: (old) drive and onto the new (C:). There are other flags to add to the copy command, but this is one of the simplest and should allow the OS to read what it can, and alert you to the ones that it can not. When you get a failure reading, and you probably WILL, you can determine how far you've gotten and how much more you can recover. Hope this helps. Enrique

Quite a few actually, but you should still be able to use the diagrams for the "bulk" of the wiring. Depending on whether it's early or late will affect whether there is a Relay Bus Connection at the passenger kick panel or not. Right about the end of the 73's they began to "centralize" some of the various relays, connections and flashers. The 74's (or the 260's in the U.S. market) then had not only the centralized bus panel, but also different style connectors. All 73's had the seat belt warning system, so you'll find a few connections in the center console area that won't be in the earlier 240 diagrams I posted. Additionally, depending on whether it's early or late, the location of the seat belt buzzer will shift from the steering column area to the area behind the Heater Control Panel. Sadly, I don't have a copy of a 73 individual or multiple wire connector diagram. So if anyone else DOES have one, please post it here. Enrique

Well!! Won't that make an interesting point for the winning bidder on e-Bay! There is 3 days to go on the auction. I wonder how he'll talk his way out of e-Bay's fees and the winning bidder. E

No need to, since we got YOU to DO that kind of thinking for ALL of us. And you do it soooo well. It's the GOOD thimking you dazent do worth a darnmn! But thank you for the compliment! E

P L E A S E ! ! If we start this apologizing for our state thing going, then Bill will be known as Sorry_in_my_Z along with his buddy IMSorrya-01. E P.S.: Didn't the VP declare open season on Lawyers? What's the limit?

Geez, what kind of spoiler do you have that can withstand getting dropped in front of a car, roll completely under and escape unscathed? You MUST post a pic! E

EXCELLENT!!

I concur. I think that, only those who "thwing" that way, would have thought of that. 2¢ E:devious:

If you've removed the resistor by the coil, JOIN those two wires. It should be a Green/White and a Black/White. That will restore the circuitry to your Tach. This happened to another member and that was the fix. As far as your headlights, check the main power ground (Black Wire) at the steering column bundle of wires that connect to the combination switch. Without this wire the headlights won't get power. FWIW E

You're not referring to the famous Zmefly? E

To answer the master cylinder needing bleeding: Beandip came over and did my brakes, and we were having problems bleeding the system out. Pedal went to the floor, it wasn't until he bled the master cylinder and THEN the calipers that he was able to declare them bled out. FWIW E

Last I checked, this part was still available from the dealer. Don't know the P/N off hand, but check your club microfiche cd and off you go. E

No Relays in the 72, but are you sure you connected everything up in the Steering Column area? It sounds suspiciously like the main ground wire (black) that runs through there to the Combination Switch isn't making contact. Without that wire, you won't get headlights. E

Jim: Here's a pic to my Series I console. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2596&cat=500&ppuser=1490 I have a lighted switch where you want the blanking plate, which shouldn't be too hard to locate. E

After seeing the numerous posts about mismatched and orphaned connections on the car's electrical system, it surprises me that either one of you would so cavalierly recommend NOT labeling. While it is true that AT the firewall/ Passenger side kickpanel, the connections pretty much pair themselves up autonomously, at the Fuse Box / Heater Control Panel area it is a completely different story. If you have an Automatic, you have an additional instrument light for the Gear Indicator. If it's a Series I console, the Lighted Rear Window Defog switch goes behind the Choke Lever. If it's a Series II console, then you probably have the Choke Switch wiring. If it's a 73 you have the additional wiring harness for the Lighted Heater Control Panel. The Fog Lamp circuitry also surfaces through there as well as the Electric Fuel Pump wiring. Toss all those together, add a not so gentle dash removal and see how easily even "experienced" Z folks get confused. While it can be a chore to label the connections, done carefully and with a bit of attention to permanence, it need never be done again. You don't have to ID each and every connector, as someone pointed out, use simple colored electrician's tape. Red goes to Red, Blue to Blue, for multiples of this, use two or more stripes. Or just write the alphabet on two pieces of masking tape. Match A to A, B to B, use a combination of letters and numbers if you need more than 26. (Take care of confusing I and lowercase L, cap I and cap H, O and Q, U and V.) But whatever method you use, if you label BEFORE you start to disconnect, you'll be able to reconnect much easier than trying to remember what went where. Especially if you're planning on removing the wiring harness from the dash to clean/paint/repair items. FWIW E