EScanlon

Six wires? Are you including the Antenna in the mix? White and White/Black are the Speaker wires, with the WB being + Red/Blue is for the light behind the dial. Blue is 12v+, Black is Ground. The Blue typically comes with an in-line fuse holder which may just have a noise suppressor inside if it hasn't been replaced with a fuse by a PO. The Antenna gets power from the same Blue wire as the radio and it uses a SPDT Center Off Momentary switch. In one direction it powers the Antenna up and in the other down, the antenna grounds to complete the circuit. This is the original semi-automatic antenna. If your antenna has been replaced with a Fully Automatic antenna, the wiring will have been changed (presumably) and depending on how they wired it, it either functions fully automatic or has been wired to function as a semi-automatic antenna. FWIW E

Seeing as the OP was asking WHERE to buy the parts, the comments as to how you feel about them are not necessary. He wasn't asking for your opinion. To top it off with "go buy them at an accessory parts place" qualifies your answer as a DUMB answer. :stupid: Those mud guards (aka Splash Guards) are available from our sponsor - Motorsports: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SG The splash guards shown are custom molded for the year of the Z and are the best fit I've seen in years. The style does differ for the front and rear as they fit to the fender outline very well. E

Check the size and format of the file. Your best bet is a JPG and a moderate resolution. E

Carl, I disagree with you in one respect... do not substitute the POR chemicals for others "just as good". Time and time again, people complain that the POR process did NOT work for them and after discussing it it turns out they substituted chemicals or processes deemed to be "equal" to the POR's. Those that did NOT, haven't complained and in turn recommend the product. While OSPHO may be a great product, I can neither vouch nor denigrate it as I haven't used it. I HAVE used the POR process extensively and at 10+ years have still to find problems. Then again, I used the Marine Clean AND the Metal Ready products and followed the instructions faithfully because I didn't want to waste any of the product. My Z done in 2001/2002 and the Roadster done in 2007 were all done that way and I've not found any problems due to the POR. 2¢ E

If the fender has undercoating on it's backside, I would NOT apply POR or paint on it. If the undercoating is in good shape, just re-coat it with the same undercoating to freshen it. But if you plan on driving your car at all, through any kind of moisture or gravel, you'll want to coat it with something. If you do want to use POR, you want to apply it directly to the properly degreased and etched metal and not on top of another coating that will allow it to peel off, and it WILL peel off. Paint over undercoating is most commonly seen as poor masking. FWIW E

They are NOT glass. My car has them, and they are genuine OEM from Japan. E

Time out! The original title to this thread states a reward of $1000 for that rim, now you're saying a finder's fee of $250. To-may-tow... to-mah-toe You have some 'splainin to do Lucy! Or should this thread be labeled as a "Bait and Switch"? E

Sadly Ed passed away a decade or so ago, but both George and Darryl were at the Portland Roadster Show this year as part of the Legends of Kustoms presentation. Nice guys both, regretably only had a moment or so to say hello to them as I was busy with other things. John D'Agostino and Gene Winfield were also here. Ed's son, however, brought the "Rat Fink" car to the PRS two years running. That's a unique little car. We also had "Tow-Mater", the only tribute tow truck that Pixar acknowledges as being faithful to the drawing. I would advise those that have difficulty appreciating this vehicle's modifications to NOT go to ANY Roadster or Custom car show. These shows are for those people who can appreciate the vision and dedication it takes to produce one of these cars, and not for those who cringe at effecting modifications on a vehicle. Personally, I would rather see modifications of this sort than to see the vehicle scrapped, but as with any modification, some are very eye-catching and others aren't. E

IF his engine was running when he took that picture, he has bigger problems than a mis-adjusted volt meter. (Oil pressure is at zero! ) Aside from that, I don't know that I'd advocate sticking a screwdriver into the back of the voltmeter while it's connected to the car. Add that you're not sure what the other hole gives access to.... sure fire way of finding out if there are still sparks left inside your screwdriver. E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?1631-An-Ounce-of-Prevention! FWIW E

POR sells a stripper that will remove cured POR. However a distinction needs to be made here, are you referring to POR or to their U.S. Standard Fuel Tank Sealer which is their Gas Tank Sealer product? While POR is very sensitive to humidity in the air and surfaces (I've seen it "boil" due to humidity in the air) I don't know if the Tank Sealer is as sensitive. But, I don't know of many paints that will tolerate a moist or damp surface. E

Use their Gas Tank Sealer for the INSIDE of the tank, and the regular POR for the outside. However, in BOTH instances make sure you use their Marine Clean AND the Metal Prep solutions. Those that have followed the instructions to the letter have had exceptional results, those that have "improvised" have had problems. You decide. E

The data is available at Zhome.com: (actually, it looks like a copy / paste of an earlier version of the page) http://zhome.com/History/69ZArticle.html Michael, you may want to give credit to where you obtain your material. E

The soldering method is an old school method (think lead body filler). Basicaly you use a larger soldering iron, the one I have is an old (1940 / 50 or thereabouts) soldering iron used to heat LARGE items. The soldering tip (the part that gets hot) is close to an inch in diameter, and the heating coil is probably two inches. In either case it can transfer a LOT of heat quickly and because of that, short applications allow you to quickly heat a small hole and get the solder to stick. I use Acid Core Solder, heat the iron up and some liquid flux. A quick dab of flux, heat the hole, touch the solder wire to the tip of the iron and in two or three seconds you remove the iron S L O W L Y so that the solder does not get pulled away from the extremities of the hole and it will be cool before you can put the iron down to check. Clean up is important, a dab of Lacquer Thinner or DeNatured Alcohol to ensure the flux and any acid are neutralized and you can sand the "bead" of solder smooth and paint. I've used this technique on louver mounting screws, rivet holes, and other holes generally 3/16" or less without any difficulty. If doing a complete paint job and you've stripped the paint off, metal preparation is the same afterwards, self-etch primer, or if being done after being primered, Sealer. FWIW E

Sounds as though someone's insurance company is pushing for a fast settlement.... DO NOT SUCCUMB TO THE PRESSURE. They're pushing you so you do NOT have time to examine your options AND rights. Tell them that you've contacted your lawyer and will advise them as to the outcome. The insurance adjustor or whomever is giving you this "dead" line is pushing to have this "solved" at the lowest possible amount of money (i.e. none) because it was CARGO (BS, a CAR carrier isn't carrying pallets) and two because of the "time" constraints in order to have the claim satisfied "easily". Contact YOUR own insurance agent, attorney or do some research. E

If you're not repainting but still want the holes filled, you might consider soldering them closed, then just using touch up paint on the exposed solder (after spot priming). Solder uses a much lower heat then welding and it leaves a smaller damaged paint surround. E

The screw plate for the striker on the jamb is INSIDE the plenum, so removing the interior panel will only reveal the metal backing backing the interior panel. Sadly unless you cut a hole in the interior metal panel, or you cut the whole striker area out, you're not going to get to the back of the door jamb to access that screw plate. Easiest fix I ever did on that was to use a bolt/nut/washer setup to tighten the screw plate up against the back of the door jamb, then tapping the screw holes to the next size. With care you won't even have to ream the striker holes. FWIW E

And let's not post argumentative replies..... E

I did something similar years ago with the Fuel Access Door on a Mercury Capri II, except it was a complete custom install as the car did not originaly come with the feature. However, the type of door/construction of the Capri's Fuel Door and the Z's Tool Compartment Covers is very similar, except that you won't have to come up with the tab of metal for the lock to catch on to. Check with a Tool Box supplier... I sourced mine back then from the Snap-On dealer but Matco and Mac both have similar locks. One other thing that comes to mind is that the hole for the Z's latch lid may be a true circle whereas the tool box holes are usually flat sided "circles" (i.e. a flat section out of each side of the circle has been removed). If so, and if memory serves, there are two styles of these locks, one uses a clip similar to the car's external door lock and the other uses a nut and lock washer. I suggest you get the one with the nut as that would allow you to clamp it down fairly tightly and possibly avoid having the lock, while still locked, to be "spun" and get bypassed. (I suppose you could epoxy, weld or braze something in there.) Here's a pair that uses a round key, which for your purposes may be better than the standard flat key: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=643976&PartNo=K2HLA&group_id=681922&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all E

Hang on a second there... based on what I highlighted, you may want to post a picture of the current ones, because if memory serves, the very EARLY Z's had the lift buckle style of the latter style Roadster, i.e. lift handle style and not push-button style. As such, again if memory serves, the tongue of the early won't go into the push button style latch. Also, for your year, the lift handles aren't the style I'd expect to find. If they were replacements from the original ones, they might be even older parts that got put into your car. It might also give you a way of swapping an "incorrect" item of some value for other pieces that you need that others may consider less valuable. Meaning that you might have a higher value item to trade with, in the belt set you have. FWIW E

Then again, you might let your post "soak" a bit before giving up on it... 3 hours between your first two posts would have required someone with the exact part you need just waiting for you to post asking for that piece. Don't forget, you're asking for ONE piece in a set of 3 (lap, latch and shoulder) belts, and asking for that set to be broken up. Some folks may have BOTH sets (driver and passenger) and while they might consider selling one seat or the other, asking for just an individual piece out of the set... well, give it time. FWIW E

It was NEVER considered a "low-tech" or any kind of cruise control by Datsun/Nissan or anyone who understood the basic mechanism. This was a standard feature in the Series I cars, which was removed by US Dealers on many (if not most) of the cars that arrived with it installed. The Series II did not have the feature. Think of it as putting a brick on the accelerator pedal while driving, it won't automatically stop accelerating whether you push the brake or the clutch. The purpose of it was to allow the driver to give the engine a bit of Throttle, while backing off the Choke, after starting the engine at Higher Altitudes or Low Temperatures. This way the engine could warm up without the extra gas that the Choke would permit. One of the main reasons the dealers were quick to remove the Hand Throttle from the Series I console vehicles was due to drivers using the Hand Throttle as a cruise control and getting into trouble with it. Think of the liability to Datsun/Nissan because of the improper use of it. Like any tool, if you know how to use it and what it's intended for, it works great. If you mis-use it, then you have problems. 2¢ E

Not necessarily. It could be an older guy who isn't "into" computers and all they entail. If he's been in business since the 80's, he's not a new guy on the scene and should therefore be easier to check on. Check the BBB, and that will tell you if he's been a member and if so since when. They'll also know of any complaints filed and if he responded to them. You might want to ask some of the older members who may remember the name. FWIW E

Have a look at the back side of the dash. If you have the fiber-optic light for the Lighter AND the 4-way Flasher, then neither one of the switches you're showing is correct. (The Flasher switch that uses the fiber optic cable is the Green PULL knob.) If you do NOT have the fiber optic light, then it's probably the one on the left (without the dashes and wording) as Dan mentions. E

And we end up with the moderator stepping in.... Everyone, take a chill pill. The original post on this thread was asking to be TAUGHT something: Why 5 pins on the relay remember? One reply was sarcastic and a reply didn't note that. Neither one is a fatal eror. When you reply sarcastically: Don't be offended when your sarcasm isn't readily discernable. Make it obviously sarcastic or use the emoticons appropriately. The public scold to H4Lights isn't warranted though. Next step is to close the thread. Enrique Scanlon Moderator