EScanlon

Rick: The biggest problem is that sometimes the color coding of the early connecting items (light/turn switch, ignition switch, etc) did not match the wiring harness that it connected to. That's not to say that it NEVER has, it's just that in the earlier cars, the wiring convention for the switches, although remarkably constant amongst other switches of that type, did not necessarily match the wiring harnesses. As a result, you can't really read the wiring schematic and get a very good and clear idea of what color wires the switch should have. I've observed between three different switches wire color changes that should have been this color instead of that...., or wire colors reversed between two adjoining wires although switch works correctly (as in the case of the turn signal or parking light wire pairs). So, taking that into mind I went to find my stash of switches. Hoping that the wiring conventions didn't change too much from yours to mine: The Black wire on my T/S switch is Short w/ Male Bullet connector. It is wrapped separately from the 3 and 6 connectors (denoting number of connector points, NOT how many wires go into it, in this case the 6 connector only has 5 wires) and the other lone wire which is a Green with female spade. The Black wire connects to the Light/Wiper switch's ground via a corresponding Black Female Bullet. This ground is for the High /Low Beam switch on the T/S. The Red wire on my Light/Wiper Switch is a heavier gage wire than the rest of the wires, with a Female Bullet connector, it connects the power from the fuse box to the headlights. There should also be a Black Female Spade of equal wire gage. These two provide the power and return for your lights. The connections for these two should be at about the same level on the Dash Harness as the Flat 6 Female Spade connector's corresponding mate. The other heavy gage wire is a White / Red Male Bullet that barely makes it out of the plastic tube oversleeve, this one's for the Parking and Turn Lights Switch The last loose wire of regular gage on the L/W Switch is a Blue / White Male Bullet which makes the connection for your W/W Wash Switch. Look on the Dash's wiring harness at the "approximate" points that the wires would connect. I've used this method even with transplants and found it to be extremely helpful and sometimes definitive in determining where to plug things back into the harness at. Sometimes the trick in getting everything plugged back in, is to make the connections you are sure about. Then take the shortest wire left and determine where it HAS to connect to, then simply let them arrange themselves. There will be ~some~ bunching, but not a lot. Hope this made some sense, if not please ask. E¢

+++Shameless Advertising Plug+++++ Buy a Microfiche CD from the club store. You'll not only benefit the club, but you'll also benefit yourself in seeing how some of these items go together. ++++Shameless Advertising Plug Ends++++++ You'll really need the CD once you start trying to figure out from what cars you can cannibalize parts out of that will be correct for yours. E¢

Sometimes because of the condition of the metal below. If the original metal had to be cut off and new metal welded on, it might be difficult or impossible to find the original location of the pin holes. Sometimes it's far easier and less hazzle to use the double stick tape than it is to try to get your fingers in between pieces of sheet metal so you can put a blind sheet metal nut (That's why Datsun used the bullet clip so extensively). Unfortunately, the bullet clips require a specific size hole. If it's not to the exact size required, you simply will NOT get it in there. Either it won't insert or it will fall through. In addition to the hole in the metal, you now need to coat it so that it won't corrode, nor provide an easy venue for water to seep in. A small dab of silicone on the pin as you insert the emblem will help that. If you're planning on detailing your car OFTEN, then I would recommend you go with the original pin / barrel mount. You'll be able to remove your emblems and polish behind them. Be careful of too often or careless removal as the clips WILL cause some deep cuts and scratches on the pins that could eventually leave them too loose to hold. If your car has emblems without pins, then you must use the double stick tape or some other form of adhesive. This unfortunately negates being able to remove them for polishing the car. To avoid gunking the emblem up, mask them off as if you were going to paint the car. Stand the masking tape on edge on the sheet metal and wrap the whole perimeter of the emblem this way. Then finish taping the face, if necessary. Polish and wax and then remove the masking tape. You should then be able to use a soft toothbrush to brush away whatever wax/polish dust got on them, without having to worry about the white haze wax makes on flat black surfaces. One fellow I know, uses the hole and pin without the barrel clip simply to ensure that the emblem is located in the right spot, then he uses the Automotive Emblem double stick tape to hold the emblem. This way he can use a straight edge razor blade to cut the tape and remove the emblem, polish the vehicle without having to worry about the emblems being gunked up with wax or breaking and he can still replace the emblems where they go. If you use the tape remember that although it's so sticky it will stick to your waxed surface, it won't stick for long. Use some Wax and Grease remover exactly where you plan on using it so that it WILL stick properly. When you need to remove the emblem, use a safety razor and slide it between the emblem and the paint and cut the foam in between the adhesive. E¢

Excellent, you've done the hard part. Now check with Danny's Datsun or some other boneyard and see if you can get the same part numbers from one of their donor cars. One note, your car may have been built before the wiring harness was modified to accept the kick down switch that the AT requires, which differentiates the AT from the MT harnesses. However, the difference is only ONE wire, so you CAN make an AT harness from a MT harness by adding one wire. Presumably, you can invert that (AT to MT) as long as you are referring to the Dash Harnesses only. Once you have your present harness out, you might be able to repair it, but the problem comes in in properly labeling all the wires that may need to be replaced. As far as someone making new harnesses, I think the biggest problem is the several dozen variations that existed coupled with the fact that not everyone is willing to spend $200 for a dash harness, or .... It seems that as important as this component is, everybody feels that it should sell cheaply, yet it's one of the harder parts to replicate due to the investment in materials required, which in turn makes it expensive. As far as the CD, go to your local USPS, buy a money order which you can charge to your Debit Card (No Credit Cards, AmEx OK) send Mike the money and get your Microfiche CD. Believe me, once you get into the "books" you'll find a BUNCH of information. Now the kicker? Sometimes these parts are available directly from the dealer.....if you know the part numbers. Don't waste your time or the parts department's salesperson, half of them will tell you that without a part number they won't check it in their system. Enrique

Arne: I'll give you some fast answers to your questions, but they can be elaborated on if you need. 1. Yes, they technically are two different harnesses. 2. Part numbers can usually be found closest to the connector plugs by the upper passenger kick panel. You may have to move the glove box to see them. 3. Yes. 4. This is where the "exact" part numbers are best obtained from the Club CD (microfiche) as only you can really determine that. From what you've posted, you would not need the lighting portion of the circuitry that WOULD be in a later wiring harness just for the Defrost Switch (3 wire connector in lieu of 2 wire) this points to at least ONE different connector right at the fuse box area. =======NOTE: SHAMELESS ADVERTISING PLUG FOLLOWS============ If you haven't yet bought the club CD, then you're asking questions whose answers you'd understand better if you could see the microfiche parts relationship. The part number of the items you DO have, allow you to "date" them via the CD. You'll be able to see from how far back and how far forward in the production through the years you can swap parts from. A lot of times it will point out matched pair part numbers (this goes with that .... ONLY), it's just a simple matter of looking it up. So order the club Parts CD right away. ++++Shameless Advertising Plug Finished++++++++ 5. They're not so much specific, as you CAN swap accross the years.....as long as you watch what you're introducing / removing. The simple answer here is that you can swap year to year as long as you swap ALL dependent harnesses and electrical components or instruments. So as a set, yes; individual harnesses....yes as long as you're willing to trace out connections and possibly exchange connectors in order to complete connections. Sadly the connectors did not stay constant over all the years. The last 70 I worked on was 20 years ago, but amongst the 71-72-73 years, I've been able to determine at least 3 different wiring changes significant enough not to be supported one from the other (intermittent wiper / seat belt warning and interlock / centralized relay and connection bus ). We can discuss some of these, but there were several steps from the Series I to later models. 6 & 7. Sorry I can't help you as I have no knowledge thereof. Here's what I would do if you can do it. Contact Danny's Datsun and find out how much he'd charge for a complete harness set all out of one car or ask him for the part numbers from your car. The amount of time and effort to try to trace down one short may well be paid off with one easy transplant. If you have a system that's obviously corrupted (tons of wire splices, frayed connections that have been "redone", replacemed wire that goes...?), unless you have the time, you'd be dollars and time ahead to simply buy a harness from a boneyard. Then before you put that one in, clean and compare the new with the old and make notes accordingly. FWIW E¢

Save yourself some work. Disconnect enough hoses to allow the heater core to drain into a pan or bucket. Once the stream of coolant has reduced to single drops, use your air blower to blow into one of the hoses while catching the other end in a balled up rag. The rag will absorb the moisture that is still in the core, but more importantly you'll be able to ~feel~ the strength of the return air. The less you can feel air the more likely that the core is plugged. Now be careful and don't use 90 psi right off the bat, start off with 10-20psi, that will give you the best feel and indication as to whether a higher pressure would help or not. E¢

You guys should comingle the parts and make one good switch with it. Or send the parts to someone who can. If you guys will pay for the postage I'll see if I can fix it for you. E

But there are hoses going to the heater core from the engine? If so, then probably a combination of clogged core and possibly a shot thermostat valve. If you're connected directly to the engine and still not getting enough heat is the engine getting warm? Warm enough that it's heating the water to where it would heat the car? If there are no hoses connected from engine to heater core, then the problem is that there is no water going to the core. (Maybe this was a prior "fix" for a leaky Water Valve.) Lastly, if the engine is hooked up directly to the core, then check to make sure that one of the hoses has a break in it with a nipple inserted joining both halves of the hose. Otherwise, you'll have to come up with a section of hose for you to be able to insert your new control valve.

Hop, you'll have to be more specific as the Outer Key Lock has the spring CLIP that locks the body of the lock to the door's sheet metal AND the spring that goes on at the very tip of the lock to hold the metal tongue, which connects to the door lock mechanism. The one to hold the door lock to the body, is commonly available at stores with body metal parts. If not, check with the dealer, they're a common size. This spring looks like a flattened C. The one on the end of the lock, can be replaced with a screw and a washer, as long as you don't thread the hole very deeply. If this still doesn't give you any ideas, post again. E

Draining and /or Changing Anti-Freeze isn't necessary, but it DOES take some preparation. Get a couple of those rubber corks being used on the more common wine. I've gotten mine from dinner's out, but you might have one or two on hand. Enjoy the party. Be sure to sleep off the effects of getting the wine corks Remove the Carpet and carpet mats from the passenger foot well area, then lay a thick pile of very absorbent rags under the area where you'll be working. First remove the control wire at the Valve coming from the HCP. This way you won't be fighting that. Then using either a crescent wrench or a pair of vise grips (or any kind of clamp), pinch the hose(s) near the firewall one by one and remove from the Water Valve. Once removed, insert the rubber cork into the hoses. If you're having trouble you can always return the hose onto the valve for the amount of time necessary to fix the cork so it will work. Once the cork is in, tighten the hose clamp on the hose around the cork. Do the other hose. Swap out your part and reverse the process. The key thing here is that you'll be working on your back, (or gut if it's either big or small enough, you intermediate types like myself....give up) and you want to minimize the amount of liquid that drops (and it WILL) is minimized. Otherwise you'll be contributing to the possibility or the problem of rust. Alternatively, disconnect the control wire from the valve and disconnect the hoses at the engine, then feed them through the firewall hose seals (and do be careful as those seals are V E R Y easy to destroy if not new) and be very careful while you contort every which way to avoid turning one of the hoses up-side down and get anti-freeze splashed all over the place. ( By the way, has anyone mentioned the dangers of pets sniffing and licking anti-freeze spills? It smells good and tastes good ... for a poison. It WILL kill in very small amounts.) OR You can drain the system as Ken says. Be aware that it isn't unusual for water to be caught in the Heater Core (open your heat valve all the way while draining). But in either case you'll be minimizing the spill. E¢

Blanking plug for the Defrost Switch or for the Side Marker Light Switch Pair which is to the right of the Defrost Switch? E¢

The Datsun 280Z plate on the dash may be the victim of frequent application of vinyl protectant. The "chrome" on most of the early Z's interiors was / is infamously NOTORIOUS for being easy to literally wipe away. Very few cars have survived with the dash and console's "chrome" intact. As far as the shift knob....everyone customizes their car in one manner or another. That this owner bought a leather shift knob to replace the original wood one may be due to the wood one having cracked and needing replacing. OR as I recall, dealer's sometimes added "custom" items that weren't OEM items but were considered desireable upgrades. Custom wheels (5 spoke mags), floor mats (AMCO), Louvers on the hatch glass (too many to mention), sun and moon roofs (again too many to mention), etc, are all items that in the 70's and early 80's were considered "necessary" or "desireable" to have. Not everyone bought into that, but a LOT of people did and some did NOT have the option. In fact, there have been people asking about the "OEM" Mag Wheels (5 spoke wheels) thiking they came with the car. Well they did come with the car.....AFTER the dealer swapped them out because in the early 70's they thought the hubcaps that came with the car (the D hubcaps) were ugly. Afterwards, after the hubcaps were changed to the red background Z in the center, many people EXPECTED the car to have the 5 spoke wheel, but then newer wheels were available and ...... True they're not "original", but they were what the public wanted (or at least what the dealers thought the public wanted). 2¢ Enrique

The switch your picture shows is the EARLY one. Not too long after your car was built (presuming the switch IS the original) they changed to the AMBER light up switch. As a result the construction (part below the console) and connections changed. I'm not sure if you'll be able to find a working switch easily or cheaply, but I may be totally off base here. Have you tried opening the switch? Due to it's placement in the center of the console, and people's tendency to use that part of the console as a drink holder (without the receiving cup) it wouldn't be unusual to have had somethhing spilled into it that eventually dried up and "gunked" it all up. Disassembly is straight forward, simply insert a flat blade screwdriver along the side of the switch rocker and push out the sides of the casing, allowing you to slide the pin of the rocker out from the casing. Do this on both sides and it should slide out. Inside the switch you should find a spring as well as a rectangular brass plate with wings. The spring causes that plate to slap up and down off the contacts below. Clean it all out, replace the wire connections to it and it should be as good as new. If you don't wish to do this, then if you're willing, I'll see if I can find the square hole filler you need and I'll swap it with you. By the way that hole filler you need is where the side marker light switches were installed on JDM cars. 2¢ Enrique

Sorry Zhead, this is such a bogus test that it belongs on snopes.com (Urban Legends). The people that would know how to actually use the test will be the first to tell you that it's easy to beat and hard to discern if there is any bondo in there at all. The "principle" behind this test is to see if the magnet will attach itself to the car or not, or not attach as well. Do you have the ability in your fingers to sense the difference between the pull of a weak magnet at 1/16" vs. 1/8" of bondo thickness? Then there are those "gages" that will "prove" it because of a spring on the magnet. Again, by the time you note the subtle difference you're past that area as you swipe your gage over the body. Heck if I were the owner of the car, I wouldn't want you wiping a magnet with who knows what dirt attached to the back of it all over my car, regardless of what you said you were trying to find out. Bondo gets a bad rap from people who don't know anything about good bodywork and think this qualifies them as knowing anything. The only time that the magnet test would work is if it was so thick that your magnet wouldn't attract itself to the metal below whether it was because of the bondo or because there was NO metal. Skim coats of bondo are common when a customer demands a "mirror" finish. Factories sometimes use bondo to finish imperfections in joined metal areas or accidental bumps on the assembly line. Saying that this detracts from the finished vehicle could be just an excuse for not having any sound basis for denigrating the vehicle. Besides, if the paint is smooth, without blemishes (Lilly-pads, ripples, runs, sags, cracks, crazing, etc.) then why would it matter if there was a small patch of bondo or redcap or high-fill primer someplace on the metal? That this would "tell" you that the car has been in an accident is plausible, but I'll bet that a good bodyman could make it so that most people could NOT tell. That is, after all, the basis by which bodymen are judged. If the bondo were thick enough to be detected (due to shoddy bodywork), then there are bound to be dozens of other tell-tale marks. Over-spray in hidden areas, sanding marks in hard to reach corners, unevenness in the paint as seen from the side (looking only at the reflection), these would JUMP out at you, LONG before the bondo would be an issue. Granted that you want to get the BEST car for the LEAST money, but looking for bondo is like seeing a gorgeous woman walking down the street and wondering if she's wearing control top pantyhose. 2¢ Enrique

This is worthy of repeating: This statement, along with the comments made by several members who are recognized by other club members as knowledgeable should give you the answer you need. To answer your question directly: As with any car, make sure you check it out thoroughly, then buy the best car for the amount you are willing to spend. THEN, Continue with your collection and get two 240's (Series I and Series II), followed by a 260 and a second 280 (75 - 78), that way you'll have one of each of the original Z cars. Lastly, get a 350. Welcome to the club. Enrique

By all means go see the car for yourself. You'll do several things for yourself by that. You'll eliminate the possibility of assigning fault to someone else if it should turn out to NOT be everything it's claimed to be. There is still the possibility of being duped, but you aren't being duped by proxy. You'll be able to talk to the seller and get a feeling for yourself of the man's sincerity and most importantly whether to be extra cautious or not. Not saying that this is an infallible method, but YOU will feel better for it. You'll be able to ask specific questions regarding any questionable items. The comments above give you an excellent basis from which to proceed. All original? Are you making allowances for: Proper Routine Maintenance? There are bound to be replacement parts that would make it not 100% original and yet they would have been required in order to maintain it PROPERLY. Tires changed due to wear (and let's face it 30+ year old tires wouldnt be MY choice to drive on). Oil Filter, Air Filter, Fan Belts, Hoses, any and all rubber parts could have been replaced, again, if the car were being maintained properly. Again, none of these need be a red flag although they can be good indicators of a lot of things if you know how to interpret them. Accepted Upgrades? The change from the points distributor that was ORIGINAL to the 72 to the 280 ZX Electronic Distributor is again, NOT original, but it is a widely found, and accepted, upgrade. That it HAS been done to the car need not imply poor care, it may point to an owner that kept up with "the times". Radial tires are so common that people would not notice, but the FSM for my 71 has a caution about mixing "ordinary" tires with Radials and vice versa, as well as cautioning about toe-in and camber adjustments. But even with the car having radial tires now, the advances in tire technology are such that the original tires (175SR14) would probably NOT be the ones on the car NOW. Depending on where the car has been maintained (tune-ups, minor repairs, adjustments), it is entirely possible that the air pump was removed or rendered inoperative (fan belt removed). Additionally, other of the "smog" devices may have been removed or rendered inoperative. Neither of these are major issues, but they would make you think that the car is NOT original even though these are common modifications. There's more, but I think with the advice already given and these items you should be able to get a good idea. Do some searching through the site and you'll find dozens of posts that cover this in more depth than you'll want. As far as the price.....well that's all subjective. What it's worth to YOU may not be what the seller is willing to sell it for. Then again it may be less than what you'd be willing to pay...if you were desperate enough. Remember this though, buy the BEST car you can for the amount you ARE willing to spend. If this is $8k, then make sure that you are getting the MOST car for your money, whether it's a Z or some other car. That's far better than buying a cheaper close to gone junker and spending THOUSANDS in trying to refurbish all that might be wrong. Mind you, that's not only MY opinion, but that's the same opinion by other Z Car Vets; Carl Beck, HS-30-H, HLS30, and many, MANY other knowledgeable club members. The sad fact is this, you can spend a LOT of money refurbishing a vehicle, and the only return on your investment may be the enjoyment you get out of it. In fact, I doubt if anyone would tell you to buy cheap and hope to come out ahead. As far as the wooden door lock pulls that's nothing to worry about. Many people replaced these as a matter of making it more difficult to coat-wire open the car. In fact AAA at one time offered these to members upon sign up. I got a plug-in flashlight instead. Don't forget that EVERYONE does SOME form of personalization on their vehicle. Whether it's fuzzy dice on the mirror, personalized floor mats or those with a Z logo, custom paint, music systems, carpeting, window tinting etc. That it isn't what came with the car from the factory need not make it entirely undesireable. So don't automatically assume that any changes / modifications were done with the ulterior motive of deceiving someone, only a total moron would assume that. Normally, most modifications are efforts to personalize and privatize their vehicle. Those people who would automatically arse-U-ME more than a benign customization are undoubtedly those who have little to no actual experience with vehicles and see evil in other's deeds. The sad fact there is that those with malicious thoughts with regards to that probably have malice IN their mind. Good luck with the car, and welcome to the club. Enrique

~Normally~ a twin fillament bulb (1157) will NOT fit into a single fillament bulb (1156) housing. Both bulbs have small pins on the side of the main barrel of the bulb connector. The twin filament bulb has them offset while the single has them in line with each other. Trying to put an 1157 bulb into an 1156 socket can only be accomplished if you FORCE the pin out of the groove and into the metal cylinder of the socket. (And vice versa). 2¢ Enrique

It is a LOCKING Spade connector. Remove by sliding aside, the rubber boot which houses the Female Spade Connector to the Sending Unit Stud Terminal. Be careful with these as they're usually brittle. The Female Spade connector looks normal except for the "tang" at the front that locks it onto the Stud Terminal. The Stud Terminal on the sending unit looks like a broad head nail not fully inserted. The front of the F. Spade connector has a small "barb" which when completely slid over the Stud Terminal slides down to lock the connector to the stud's head. Lift the barb gently and slide the connector off at the same time. 2¢ Enrique

IIRC, it's not the Turn Signal Switch that's the problem, it's the Light/Wiper w/ Int. (73) vs. Light/Wiper only (71). E

Check your Hazard Switch. That connects all those circuits. E

The elbows coming off the cowl feed into the extensions I added. If I had wanted, I could have taken the clear pvc all the way through the kick panel wall to the cowl drain. A little bit of heat and the clear pvc will shape itself real well. Just be careful not to bend it too fast or the walls will collapse. E

Before they put the fenders back on, take a look at these photos: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2601&cat=500&page=5&sortby=v&sorttime=all&way=asc http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2602&cat=500&page=4&sortby=v&sorttime=all&way=asc That PVC tube ends just behind the rubber flap, and is cut in a diagonal with the face facing down and back so that the air flow under the car sucks the water out (like a venturi in a carb). Hope it helps. Enrique

71 Gold 240 Z for me. E

Nope, you'll make a hairy nuisance of yourself before they send you off. Quite simply you'll rant and rave and remind them that in Small Claims Court you can sue them for the monetary loss of the vehicle (up to $5K if I recall), and you'll remind them that since the air bags went off, that you need a physical check up by a doctor who may in fact recommend a complete MRI, CAT and EEG and EKG workup. If you got seen at the emergency room, then follow up on their recommendation. If on the other hand you haven't yet been to a Dr., make it a point to get an appointment and mention the accident. See if they can see you quickly. When you get seen have the Dr. CHECK YOU OUT! This is all within your rights. You are NOT bilking them out of anything they have not expected to pay....period. That they have NOT yet had to is because you're trying to work things out with them. They're not willing to play Chess and have instead pulled out their Hockey Stick. Do you want to put your fingers on a piece only to have them whack it with their stick? All you are doing is reminding them of just how expensive this can get. You can always cancel the Dr.'s appointment, but if you haven't been seen, then it might not be a bad idea......you DID set off the air bags. Then remind them that since you are now out of a car that this could take a while to get settled, unless they can help you get your car either FIXED or REPLACED. If you let them play on your willingness to be reasonable, then don't be surprised when they take advantage of you! That they've taken care of a couple of things...great, just don't let them drag it out, you need a car and a physical check up NOW! E

Don't throw them away....they're very easy to fix, if you take the time. I'm not in need of any, but are you selling? E