EScanlon

Careful Bill, you can't play both cards. Either you ARE a minor and cannot be questioned, or you are NOT and you aren't limited by a curfew. But you are right in that they don't want to pay. That's their ideal main objective, anything less than that ($0 paid out) is your gain and their loss. Whether he saw you or not is, in my opinion, irrelevant. Your description of how it happened needs clarification, but using WAGs.... It appears that he clipped the corner of a 4-way stop junction and got you in the nip. In this case, as long as your front end did not extend past the white stop line then he's at fault for infringing into your lane of traffic. Then again, if he's coming from a side street onto a 4 lane road with no stop sign and he was jumping out because the truck to your right was turning right onto his street and he decided to go, then it's his mistake all the way. He assumed that the road was clear. Your speed may or may not play into this, but I'll bet that the biggest thing that they are concerned with is their Safety Bond. That's the one that they have to have to ensure that the materials they are handling (Oxygen) are in fact being handled safely. It might surprise people to find out that Oxygen can be a hazardous substance IAW DOT. So, inform the insurance company that you do not want to haggle. Your car was damaged to the point of being totalled. You are now having to rent a car to ensure that you can get to school and work, and that they will be forced to pay for it. You understand that the car wasn't a 2006 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow, but ..... it ran and it got you to school and work just fine. They can either replace it, or repair it or pay you to effect the replacement or repair as YOU see fit. They do NOT get to dictate to you the terms by which you will settle. There may be legal limitations that are plain old common sense (you can't get a Rolls Royce for your Saturn, nor a new Saturn for your 200k mile old one), but the fact of the matter is simply this....their insured is the one that caused you to be in this situation. But the plain old simple fact is this.....their insured party is the one that caused this accident....period. Whatever you decide after that is negotiations. If it gets sticky, then just refer them to your lawyer in this manner: "Well, since you insist that I was out past "curfew" then I'll just have to have my lawyer and my parent's lawyer look into this matter." or "Since you insist on haggling / denying my claim, I'll just have to see what my lawyer says about attaching your Hazardous Material Bond AND Insurance. We'll see you in court." And then stand firm. You've seen this thread repeated several times over the last few years. You know that this is what we've all advised each other to do and it has paid off for those members who have heeded the advice. It's your turn now. E

When you pick up your violin and play your mournful version of "Woe is me!" then don't be surprised when people put coins in your cup. E P.S.: By the way just how MUCH is your senior discount?

Tomo: What you are looking for are Dress Washers. Typically you use a Countersink head sheet metal screw with them but you end up with a smooth finish. You can usually find the dress washers in most places that sell specialty hardware (Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace) or you can also find them at Auto Paint stores that carry the interior finish pieces. E

Series 1 Interior: Ash Tray / Fuse Cover with Cigar Lighter in front of shifter. Console has slot for Hand Throttle and small coin tray. Seats don't recline Non-Retractable Seat Belts Dash has no indent for Hazard Switch On/Off label Fog Light Switch hole not drilled (Above Haz. Switch) Dash has since been replaced due to cracks, so the last two items no longer apply, but DID when I bought the car. Seat mechanisms have been changed for comfort. Hand Throttle added to fill hole in console. Series II Body: Vents in Roof Pillars instead of Hatch. Hatch Sheet Metal is solid, but drain holes for Series I Vent drains still on inside part of frame. Tool Storage in front part of rear hatch floor instead of plastic Tool Box Covers in front of hatch floor and behind seats. Vertical Defrost I'm sure I've missed an item or two, but someone will point it out. E

Brian: Nope, this has been discussed several times. Nissan's production in the early seventies was by CALENDAR year and not American Model year (which IS/was Sept to August). Due to that, we've seen vehicles purported as 72 models due to their registration, when in fact they were 71 build with 71 components. Mine for instance has a build date of 9/71, has mostly a "Series I" interior (indicative of an Early 71), but "Series II" body metal (again pointing towards a Late 71) and registered as a 71. VIN is 43274, check with Zhome and you'll see that it's in the last few of the 71 model year. E

Arne: Check your wiring diagram, you'll note that the individual right and left AND front and rear circuits ALL come together through the hazard switch. In fact, it's the hazard switch that shunts everything together. E

It might be easy enough to find a single bulb holder and wire to splice into your tail-light wiring harness, but you might be able to get a complete tail-light wire harness easily enough. You need to specify whether you need the ONE bulb connector, or the Tail-Light Harness (which includes 4 bulb connectors). E

And / Or your Hazard Light Switch which actually is ahead of the turn signal switch. E

Here are a couple of wiring diagrams for the 73, which MAY be of help. E Well I tried and apparently the file size for a zip file is set extremely low . "240Z-73 Auto_Schematic.ZIP: File Too Large. Limit for this filetype is 1.00 MB. Your file is 1.04 MB." Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send you both the manual and auto diagrams. Each is just over a meg. Note that these are for the 73 with the intermittent wiper.

Forget the Haynes. There are probably 3-4 different wiring diagrams for the 240 alone. There's the Basic, the Early Manual/Auto, the Early 73 and the Late 73 (and Manual/Auto version). Check your kick panel, and see if you have a plug in style box with several relays on there. If so, yours is a LATE 73. Intermittent wipers? then definitely a 73. If no Intermittent wipers could still be a 72 wiring harness, while still being a 73 VIN. Get the FSM for your year of car and it will at least hone it down to two diagrams or so. E

You should see him do his....."I'm sorry Miss, I can't see this to read it very well, could you read it for me". And then he holds the menu in such a way that he can literally climb down her cleavage......and then he gets hard of hearing......"Hmm, could you repeat that?. . . and read this other one? ..... Again?..... and this one?" It's especially funny cause he has perfect eyesight and doesn't wear glasses. Then if he gets busted (Pun noted) he acts all " Who, me? Never!". Then again it's fun to get the side shots too, so I'm not complaining. E

Hey, we're counting on using YOUR discount!!!! E

Oh, I don't know Bryan...it LIFTS and SEPARATES..... E

I'll apologize for having been the one to jump with hob-nail boots. As for addressing individual comments, no more need be said, and Arne, I'll apologize to you personally for any static you feel you've received. I think that, as a CLUB, Stephen's comment above and the other supportive comments speak for us. This is the key to avoiding the flame wars that can consume a site so easily. This is a very dynamic group and it isn't hard to get it revved up to the max. We just need to be careful when we red-line as that is what causes us to loose good members. (Bambi, 2ManyZ's, and others). I'll take my twenty lashes now..... E

DITTO! I would have liked even "half bumpers" (similar to the cut bumper on the early 70's Chevy Camaro), but NO bumper leaves me worried. Way too many careless people out there and even a shopping cart going bump......Yikes! Personally, i would have approached the restriction of the lower part of the grille opening differently. I would rather see that piece of sheet metal blended into the side pieces of the front air dam, and present a complete smooth appearance. Also the rear bumper over-rider although it looks nice, is kind of ..... out of line with the front end. But you have to admit that the paint job is well done. And it is it's excellence compared to that engine compartment that makes that such a blemish, but as Garth pointed out, Ziebart is NOT fun to work with (I know!). I think I'd rather tackle a glob of Never-Seize than Ziebart. E

20 Amps HTH E

Garth: Ditto! (Except for the "twin electric fans".....) E

YIKES!!! I hope I didn't enflame people. If I did...please blame me. I can understand Garth's position on having the vehicle critiqued and therefore needing defending, but my post was about criticizing the person or the thoughts behind the car / car's changes or "improvements". Car clubs for the most part are about ..... surprise!.... a specific car, or a family of cars (family = whatever the members decide). Within that framework, we share, cajole, praise, borrow, steal, and otherwise entertain....IDEAS about that car. Whether it could be made faster, smoother, nicer, cooler........etc etc, and thankfully along the way we pass on ideas that are better.... in whatever manner we choose to deem them as being better....for us. But comments that are derisive in their nature tend to inject arguments into that flow of ideas. Then some of the best minds we have here turn to defining that classic, never to be forgotten, anhiliate the opposition with one fell blow statement, that unfortunately, tends to be just a bit more derisive. Then it cascades into insults and the ire that can generate, hence a "Flame War". But commenting on a car is fair game, and in my opinion, as long as you don't attach negative values to the comment, everyone benefits. Beandip and I are good friends and we constantly cajole each other over our vehicles. My car has a lot of "gold" accents, since it's painted 920 Gold. His is painted '05 Mustang "Screaming Yellow". I refer to it as 'Arrest Me' Yellow, and constantly remind him to use a "feather" foot or he won't be able to avoid a speeding ticket.....standing still. The car looks like FAST, and if I were a cop, I'd give him a ticket .... for the times he DIDN'T get caught. But I don't tell him his car shows he has a yellow streak a mile wide. (Did I mention he has an impressive collection of target cards with the centers neatly punched out?) He doesn't (the streak,that is), and between he and I, we'd probably laugh over it. But someone else would take offense, and it is that type of comment that I'm addressing. You're welcome to take pot shots at my car...all day long. But when you start denigrating the individual who owns the car, or came up with the idea behind.... then you start the war. But Garth, I have to say that in a car club, some things are simply going to get jeered at and made fun of. The thing is to remember that a lot of times this "making fun of" is part of the "membership". The key is to NOT make it a lynching. Now as far as being the Z police.....that can seem bad, but also good. If we're the Z police because we know the history, antecedents, details about the car and it's constituent components (240 S1 & S2; U.S./JDM/Europe/Oceania/World market versions etc.). Then I'll put on my badge, and smile. But if the reference is supposed to be negative, I'd like to see this club change that attitude. 2¢ Enrique

Probably one of the first things we should do is find out where everyone is located at. CR, you need to update your profile as there is little information there. From your b-day, we'll have to limit it to non-alcoholic, which is ok, but it needs to be mentioned. Note that the majority of us Z owners here in the PDX/VAN area, are of the Over 21 but under Senior Citizen discount age. We're more than glad to share information and help, but our jobs limit the hours as to when we can do them. Now that being said, I'll see if I can find that map locator site that was touted a few weeks ago. Enrique

The relay on the driver's kick panel is the HORN Relay. The terminals should be labeled H - S - B. Wiring is as follows: Green to H(orn), Green/Red to B(attery), and Green/Black to S(witch). As far as the ones behind the HCP, you'll have to be more specific. That's the "nerve center" of the car and literally ALL of the circuitry goes through there in some manner or fashion. There are several connectors that don't get hooked up unless you have some specific items and ..... So at least give us the # of wires in the connector, a description of the connector and the colors of the wires, that will REALLY help. By the way your duplicate post ends up being seen in the same area, either "Today's Posts" or "New Topics", and you aren't doing anything more than using up disk space. HTH E

I whole heartedly agree with you. You can call any and all of the features / dents / highlights / lowlights about the CAR. It's when the comments begin about the PERSON that I am referring to. My last sentence says: With your recollection of the "fun" last week, you'll recall that as soon as the name calling began......presto.....instant bon-fire and the FLAMES went whoooooosh....FLASHBACK. Whether he or we started the name calling is not the point. It was the name-calling and persona-bashing that got us off. This is exactly what I wouldn't want to see happen here. E P.S.: I'll gladly continue this discussion via PM's or start another thread, but let this thread stand as being about the wheels on the car mentioned.

IMO, in a word.....NO. The (73) Main Bracket that forms the frame for the lever control assembly is designed to have an offset from the faceplate for the light lens. It has a FLAT piece (at an angle) that backs the light lens and the levers go THROUGH it (All three). That piece is NOT perpendicular to the lever controls, it is parallel to the faceplate. The (71) HC Faceplate is designed without that FLAT piece. As such, the (71)faceplate has these "extension boots", for lack of a better term, that provided the "sleeve" through which the lever protruded through the face plate. The (71) Lever Control Assembly's flat piece, is perpendicular to the body of the lever controls and NOT parallel to the face. Additionally only the lower two levers were behind it. The upper most lever doesn't go through the metal, only the HCP. If you were to cut off these sleeves parallel to the face plate, you MIGHT be able to get the lever controls to align and mount to the face plate. But it would be so much easier to simply buy a 71 Lever Bracket Assembly and transfer your cables to it. Heck, you might be able to swap out your complete 73 HCP / Levers for a 71 in equitable condition, since you have the faceplate you want to use. 2¢ Enrique

From your first post, the battery is brand new. Was it charged before you installed it in the car, or are you expecting the new VR/ALT combo to do that? The Alternator in your car will slowly re-charge your battery, but it isn't designed to CHARGE your battery. The difference is that the battery must originally receive it's charge from outside your engine compartment. That's why you get told that when your battery dies and you can't start your car, that it's ok to get jump started for a short drive to a repair station where you should have the battery re-charged. Next item: the items you replaced, were they replaced with ~EQUAL ITEMS~ or ? This isn't an insult, but oftentimes the car part shop will say something along the lines of "Well, the one you need is out of stock, but this one should work." This sadly ends up with hours of painful troubleshooting that disappears when correct items are replaced. Case in point: Did you replace the Alternator with the proper Internal/External regulator? What would the addition of an external VR to an internally regulated Alternator do? Are all items that should be grounded.....grounded properly? Just cause it's stuck on the firewall with screws does NOT mean that proper contact is being made. You mention that some of the circuits are not plugged in, just how much of the wiring is NOT plugged in? Could you be missing a critical connection that is causing the problem? Could you have cross-connected something? These are just a few suggestions of items to check. E

Ahem..... I think NOW is a perfect time to plug the club's Microfiche CD...... E

The dash and frame will fit easily enough, but the wiring harness will definitely require comparing. Aside from plastic connection differences, you'll also run into changes in the harness. If you are planning on using the 73 dash harness, then do yourself a favor and transplant ALL the harnesses and any electrical item whose connector is different between the two cars. Items such as the W.Wiper had the intermittent wipe feature added which although the connection may look the same, there are additional wires that finish new circuits. It is possible to make the transition, but having done it, and STILL working problems out....make sure you're well qualified in tracing down circuits. As a note the 73 Heater Control Panel is more often sought out due to it's back-lit feature as opposed to the 71's non illuminated style. Enrique