EScanlon

It was NEVER considered a "low-tech" or any kind of cruise control by Datsun/Nissan or anyone who understood the basic mechanism. This was a standard feature in the Series I cars, which was removed by US Dealers on many (if not most) of the cars that arrived with it installed. The Series II did not have the feature. Think of it as putting a brick on the accelerator pedal while driving, it won't automatically stop accelerating whether you push the brake or the clutch. The purpose of it was to allow the driver to give the engine a bit of Throttle, while backing off the Choke, after starting the engine at Higher Altitudes or Low Temperatures. This way the engine could warm up without the extra gas that the Choke would permit. One of the main reasons the dealers were quick to remove the Hand Throttle from the Series I console vehicles was due to drivers using the Hand Throttle as a cruise control and getting into trouble with it. Think of the liability to Datsun/Nissan because of the improper use of it. Like any tool, if you know how to use it and what it's intended for, it works great. If you mis-use it, then you have problems. 2¢ E

Not necessarily. It could be an older guy who isn't "into" computers and all they entail. If he's been in business since the 80's, he's not a new guy on the scene and should therefore be easier to check on. Check the BBB, and that will tell you if he's been a member and if so since when. They'll also know of any complaints filed and if he responded to them. You might want to ask some of the older members who may remember the name. FWIW E

Have a look at the back side of the dash. If you have the fiber-optic light for the Lighter AND the 4-way Flasher, then neither one of the switches you're showing is correct. (The Flasher switch that uses the fiber optic cable is the Green PULL knob.) If you do NOT have the fiber optic light, then it's probably the one on the left (without the dashes and wording) as Dan mentions. E

And we end up with the moderator stepping in.... Everyone, take a chill pill. The original post on this thread was asking to be TAUGHT something: Why 5 pins on the relay remember? One reply was sarcastic and a reply didn't note that. Neither one is a fatal eror. When you reply sarcastically: Don't be offended when your sarcasm isn't readily discernable. Make it obviously sarcastic or use the emoticons appropriately. The public scold to H4Lights isn't warranted though. Next step is to close the thread. Enrique Scanlon Moderator

Look at the wiring connection screws. IIRC they hold the exterior connections to the interior chassis. E

To PROPERLY answer your question take a look at the microfiche (Parts CD), section 180-1, item 1. P/N 04160-00003 AND 04160-00016 are two variants. I've seen one car with a White vinyl roof and another one with a Black. E

Correct. E

That "fifth" pin is to INVERT the relay's operation from turning ON a device to turning it OFF (or turning one device on while turning another off) This page on the second link providec by Beerman has some additional explanations on other uses as well as a pin explanation of your relay. http://www.parts-express.com/resources/automotive-relays.cfm FWIW E

Ditto on the SU's. There are far more articles / posts relating trouble with the Weber's and other downdraft carburators than ALL of the SU trouble threads combined. I'm not saying the SU's are infallible, just that once you get them set up right (or you learn how to), they're virtually trouble free. I haven't messed with mine in years, the old adage applies, if it ain't broke... Webers, and other downdraft carburators will require a new intake manifold... for starters, then you have to figure out the throttle linkage, then the choke connection (electric.. yeah right!) and THEN get them "tuned". It CAN be done, but if you're looking for relatively maintenance free, then the SU's are the way to go. E

OJ, are you trying to re-define words? The North American market was LHD. This car has the Steering Wheel on the RIGHT, ergo... RHD. Just checking.... E

Radio speaker. + = W/B Look near the fuse box on the wiring diagram and you'll see them. FWIW E

IF memory serves, there was an outfit that produced an overhead "flight console" as an aftermarket accessory, I'll have to see if I can find the picture I saw it in. It might also be a homemade bracket for either a tape deck (8 track or cassette) or a CB radio. I don't see the Coaxial antenna lead, but it may be long gone. FWIW E

To my knowledge the relays for an AT tranny are not utilized by a manual tranny 4 or 5 speed. The two main ones that I can recall: the Ignition Temp Advance Relay (Not the actual name, but a description) which switches the points ground, and the Seat Belt Interlock Relay, which senses whether the car is Parked or in Neutral. The MT would only need the one for Neutral (and maybe not even that if you don't care for it.) If the car runs and operates properly I would surmise that the tranny swap was done properly and not worry about the relays being there or not. An AT Dash Wiring Harness has an additional wire that an MT harness does... the Kick Down Switch wire. The rear harness is the same for both and the Engine Harness, as you've discovered, has the relays for the AT but you can ignore them. Other than that you the Engine bay harness is the same for either tranny. As far as to why buying an AT to convert... well the AT's as a group, seem to have survived better than the MT's which have been getting "run hard" (IMO). As a result it is much easier to find a good condition Z as an original AT and convert it, than finding a manual tranny Z in equivalent condition. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, just that for the most part the AT's have been driven less strenuously and as a result have survived in better condition. Some people will intentionally buy the AT and then convert the car and then... run it hard... and others won't. FWIW E

Steve, sorry but the name you most often hear regarding frame rails and floor pans is Charlie Osborne as he is the supplier for many of the other vendors. Those are the ones that MSA carries. Bad Dog may have had some, but an 11 month old archived page isn't the way to go finding parts. Contact Charlie at his website, here's a direct link to his floors: http://datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm FWIW E

I've never seen one before. Interesting piece and I've subscribed to the thread to find out more as it gets posted. E

Just a quick note, the North American market is the one that only received the 260 for one year, other markets DID receive the 260 for more than one year, and if memory serves it's the 280Z (not ZX) that's rarer outside the NA market. I'll stand corrected, but that's what I recall reading here someplace. Alan? E

DRIVE the car for about 15-20 minutes BEFORE you go to the test, preferably at highway speeds, but definitely NOT Stop & Go. That way the engine will have warmed up hot enough to get rid of any condensation in the exhaust and gas in the crankcase. Other than that, hopefully your car has all the required equipment. FWIW E

And to top things off you'll have to be careful getting in and out from now on. Otherwise your butt will collide with that bumper and remove it for you. Replace a lost door bumper one too many times and you just glue it on the next time it happens. I used Household Goop to glue my last one on. My butt has also made peace with it. FWIW E

When you re-tightened everything to "where it was" you didn't. Look at the linkage from the outside key lock to the latch mechanism, it may be that you didn't extend the "nut/screw" that connects the 2 far enough for the key lock to properly push down on the latch. You can test all this by removing the door panel (sorry) and then tightening that nut/screw so that after you've "latched" the door (while keeping it open) you can then use the key to lock and observe the latch mechanism. It's a pretty straight forward process. FWIW E

Not pry off, you'll have to notch them in order to use a straight screwdriver or use an awl to edge-hit the screw off. They're security screws and the heads have been snapped off, leaving a "blank" screw head. The simplest procedure is to use a Dremel tool to cut a notch in the head of the "blank" screw, then use your straight screwdriver to remove the screws (2). HTH E

PM "MIKE", and request a copy of the club CD... it's the microfiche for the Z and will allow you to look up the parts and and you can determine from the part number whether they're the same or not. Buying the CD is inexpensive and helps the club maintain this forum. FWIW E

Bruce; Is there a front/back SU difference or am I mistaken? Just looking to get my memory notes corrected. E

If you have access to a place like "The Hangar", and the Cal Poly Motor Car Assn. you might consider doing some rust repair now. With their help and guidance you would at least reduce the amount of MAJOR rust you would otherwise have later. 2¢ E

As a note from memory, and I'm not the mechanic these other guys are, I recall a discussion some time back regarding there being a FRONT SU Carb and a REAR SU Carb. With your mentioning that your carbs were set up with the wrong float distance actually being inverted, my thoughts run to this possibility FIRST before you modify the carbs as they are in place now. It might be easier to swap the carbs and not modify them. FWIW E

Extra posts deleted, and this one moved to proper forum. E Scanlon Moderator Justin, most people use the front page's "Recent Thread Activity" at the bottom of the page to see all new posts. Seeing the same post multiple times causes some to simply ignore the whole set. FWIW E