EScanlon

Hey, anyway you can get it in without damaging the car and that it works afterward, and that you are comfortable doing, works for me. The procedure you mention (putting the Z sideways), says you have the car on a rotisserie. Most people take the car off the rotisserie before they start installing wipers and wiring. Now that you have the wiper mechanism and motor in, BEFORE you put on your wipers, first give it a test. Make sure that the wiper motor has PARKED and is in the proper position for the wipers. It has happened before that by attaching the wiper linkage to the motor AFTER it's installed on the car that it gets installed 180° off, which means that your wipers will first wipe accross your cowl and onto your hood before they come back and do it again....never wiping the windshield. 2¢ Enrique

That's because it isn't necessary to do so. Enrique

Here's a link to Harbor Freight Tools, and the SIPHON SPRAY BLOW GUN #37346, which was only 3-4 bucks, IIRC. http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=37346&CategoryName=null&SubCategoryName=null There really isn't too much to using this. You put the end of the hose into the can of POR, and the other end attaches to the end of the blow gun, then just point and spray. Beandip came up with a heavy fishing weight to attach to the end of the hose to ensure that it didn't slip out of the can, which made for less "oops" factor. There's no need to thin the POR as you would with standard spray equipment, (which by the way does NOT work satisfactorily, i.e. you spend 4 times the time, twice the money and you still don't get good coverage inside areas you can't see directly.) There really is NO limitation to how far inside a cavity you could spray the POR, other than lack of visibility and air pressure. Although you can expect a bit of "reach" past corners into areas you can't see directly, don't expect to cover them well. This method works best for "line-of-sight" surfaces. If you were to use "Ziebart" type nozzles to direct the spray back and to the sides, it would be perfect. Clean up is a cinch. Just throw away the PVC hose as it is impossible to really clean it and lacquer thinner which normally cuts uncured POR will dissolve the PVC and it's cheap to replace. The nozzle tip just takes a couple of dips into lacquer thinner and it's clean. Be forewarned though, be absolutely sure to wear protective breathing apparatus, not just a dust mask, spray outdoors preferably and have a fan blowing the fumes away. POR FUMES WILL MAKE YOU SICK!!! Voice of experience here. If you do not have adequate ventilation AND a good paint spray mask AND a means to evacuate the fumes that you will be really generating with this method, you WILL get dizzy spells, nausea, and major headaches. Lastly, be sure to have a lacquer thinner dampened rag on hand. That will clean the POR from areas that you did NOT want treated, although it still sets rock hard later. Remember to make sure you clean off any you get on your skin. $2 (This one is a GOOD tip.) Enrique

I think the proper penance should be that he buy ANOTHER shirt, one that ONLY gets used on a Z. Let this one that has been rendered .... not unworthy, but definitely .... "tainted" be used for those mundane chores where it might be possible to get dirty. i.e. changing oil, greasing bearings, waxing the ZX..... Enrique

See if these help. Enrique

During my writing my previous post to this thread the following was posted on the site. At the time I found it it only had the first response to the original post. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=127159#post127159 Aussie260Z and Alex 240Z; would you two mind answering this guys questions? And be sure to let him know that the problem more than likely begins in the Hazard Switch, which, if he'd done a search in the first place, he'd have his answer by now instead of dealing with a whole new batch of issues. Or you can spend the next few hours / days transcribing all of the posts to previous discussions of the same issue. Enrique

I've purposely postponed my bit of absurd nonsense to this diarrheal diatribe in order to calm down....... BOOO HOOOO HOOOOO :sick: :stupid: Someone got told to do a basic search to find the information he requests....BOO HOOO HOOO!!!! If he just arrived on the site, a SEARCH is what brought him here in the first place. So now he expects to be able to just jump in in the middle of everything and ask a question and have EVERYONE stop what they're doing and attend to HIS problem. If he's an old member then he knows that that's what gets posted to questions that, for those of us who do peruse this site on a frequent basis, have been answered a myriad of times before. Whether he's a new or old member....what a bunch of whinny egotistical selfish spine-less crap that is. Those who are accustomed to instant gratification by those who deem to give it, EXPECT the REST of the world to succumb to their selfish needs. "STOP....I need for you to do something...for ME." is their mantra. And they get petulant and offended if you don't attend to THEIR needs in short order. You can't deny their wish, and anything less than fulfilling their wish is considered.......RUDE / OFFENSIVE / INSULTING / WRONG. Get a grip on reality. Only in your solipsistic view of the world, are the rest of us here to please your whinny commands. If you want HELP, search first, you might be inundated with information and then realize why just posting your request is such a bother to the rest of us. If you don't find something, and do try, don't just gloss over the titles or the poster and decide....screw it, I'll just ask someone else to do the work for me, THEN post your question. ESPECIALLY if you are asking for help. If you're sharing an opinion, an incident, something you've developed, etc, then by all means find the correct forum and POST IT. There's a lot out there and no one person on this site can claim to know it all. (And besides, it really IS annoying to those of us that do! ) If you find an article that SEEMS to address the problem you are having, but it doesn't answer your question, then by all means ADD to that post and ask your question. I'll guarantee that you will get a FASTER and more MEANINGFUL reply that will, additionally, BE in a similar theme post, and may have all the references right there to answer any subsequent questions. Posting a new post means that you will have to EXPLAIN the situation in such a manner that the rest of us, who aren't standing behind you, (or holding your fat a$$ up) can understand what it is you are doing, on WHAT kind of car, and WHY you need / want / must do it. But it SHOULD have been researched first, or you run the risk of having some very innovative, ridiculous and off the wall comments being thrown your way (Where can I find a cheap Air Dam?) or being told to SEARCH the archives! There are excellent posts on this site. (Fix for Slow Wipers) is an example of a subject having been revisited a couple of times with new information being added. Regardint the (Boobs!) thread..... This site is about automobiles, specifically the Datsun Z series of automobiles. Automobiles, for the most part, tend to be something that MEN find as an interest. Men, for the most part, like women. Women, for the most part, have boobs. Now, if you don't share an interest in boobs, then you aren't REQUIRED to view the thread. If you don't share an interest for women, you aren't required to associate with them. It's not even a requirement that you be MALE to be on this site, the ONLY requirement is that you be interested in the Datsun Z. Asking for the selection available to you be limited to only those pre-sanitized and pre-approved and stamped with some bogus seal of approval is again.....MORONIC. No one is forcing anything on you, be responsible for your own self TO your own self and don't go where whatever is there might offend you. That slimy drool of a thought that says we must all behave to satisfy your paranoical diseased mind is thought only by you. No one on this earth is here to please YOU, they're here only to please THEMSELVES. If they happen to please you in the process, consider it a gift. The stupid general consensus that dictates we must all behave in such a manner that we don't offend our sensitive brethren fails to note that we can't PLEASE them either. Not only do they expect the rest of the world to go hunt down, prepare, cook, serve, cut into small pieces and feed them the meat, they also want us to pre-digest it and then vomit it into their gullet so all they have to do is sh!t? And then bitch that they didn't like the taste or got diarrhea???? Get a grip on life or get out. There are some posters who can be found to peruse this site more often than others. Yes, that's true. It's a fact of life that others don't share all the same interests nor obligations as you. They can allocate their time as THEY see fit, not you. If you don't like that.....TOUGH. Find a different mix of interests that will then allow you to do the same, or whatever it takes, but the bottom line is Lump it or Love it. My "turd" onto this pile of dung. Enrique

Just a couple of thoughts on the "bullet" points I picked out from your reply: Yes, many of the articles will be "beginner" stuff. Most of your readers will not have been actively involved in car mechanics when the car was new and therefore will need that beginning stuff. As far as "everything" being documented... I beg to differ on two counts. If that were the case, then someone someplace would say "look it up in .... book or magazine", and also some of the issues we're dealing with today are as a result of the AGE of the vehicle and therefore would not have been an item to address in the 70's and 80's. Regarding Typo's, yes they occur and also differences in opinion which to some will be as blatant an error as if you said get a STANDARD took kit to work on the Z. However, if you limit the amount of detail on some of these articles you won't run into the problem of detail nit-picking. There are items that it would be ludicrous to detail and others where it's critical. Head bolt torque specifications are critical, tightening bumper bolts on the other hand is not (and I don't wish to quibble about the "meaning" of TIGHTEN). In my opinion that many people don't know much about their car is one of the most important services that your magazine fulfills. Sometimes it takes a simple straight forward article in a magazine to trigger a person into researching and finding out more. That's where the books come in. As you pointed out, you can't re-build an engine for an article without it becoming a permanent fixture for a couple of years, but you can gloss over it and give the book references you use to back up what you did. Mechanically apt people look at your magazine in order to see what others have done. They know or at least should realize, that those with less aptitude NEED those basic items pointed out. As you pointed out, 80% (by your estimation) of the questions asked on the forums are "basic", yet they seem to come up time and time again. If a mechanically able person is using your magazine as STUDY material, it's so that he can "improve" upon your design. As far as taking something from a website: I don't imagine that you would literally cut and paste the thread. I'm suggesting that you check out the Technical Articles section of this site and others and see WHAT has been posted, give it a brush-up to correct items that may have changed due to time and / or experience and publish them for those people who don't cruise the net. Heck, use it as a publicity plug for the website and you might generate some revenue, or site the various websites as contributing sources and let them get new members. Lastly, since you are doing a project car, why not publish a request for submissions on wanted items to cover and if possible suggestions? You mentioned the carpet kit and sound deadening. If you buy a carpet kit from one of the vendors it's as simple as emptying water from a glass, but if you are planning on doing your own CUSTOM install... now you're talking an article. As far as sound deadening, there are many ideas as to what's basic, what's required and what's a no-no. Check out the sites, you might find that the article(s) literally write themselves. And to close, that's a possibility right there, what about you hosting a story submittal forum here. You could use it to "seed" your writers or maybe you'll find one of the posters with the right kind of skills to submit it. Enrique

The buzzer for the Key-In Switch is a very small piezo type buzzer. Mine was cream colored and about 3/4 to an inch in diameter and only about 3/8" or so tall. It had a pair of wings with holes for mounting. Normally it's mounted on the steering column support frame. Take a look at your ignition lock and see if there is a square opening near the top where the key goes in just below the bezel with the text. If the hole is there, then that ignition lock was CAPABLE of receiving the switch. If the hole is NOT there, then that's a completely different story. The wiring according to the wiring diagram (at least on the 71 240) was a Red and a Black wire going to the switch at the lock and a Red (direct connect to switch) and Yellow pair to the buzzer. The whole thing was connected in parallel to the dome light circuitry. Hope this helps. Enrique

Then from the picture Chris posted: "he steering lock is combined with the ignition switch to a single unit which contains warning buzzer microswitch for reminding the drive to lock the steering. The microswitch is connected to a warning buzzer." Mine only operates when the door is OPENED and the key is still in the lock, regardless of whether the steering wheel is locked by the ignition lock or not. The translation from the FSM may have mistaken UNLATCHED i.e. opened; with unlocked, but the picture text doesn't "compute", unless there was a separate switch that we're presuming is the same as this one. Hmm, carchaelogy...... Enrique

This is perfectly understandable. Simple economics at work, and if you add more 240 items, it would be hard to offer the 350 advertisers a justification for the price of their ads. To state it a bit more plainly, 350 advertisers won't advertise in a 240 magazine, or vice versa. Maintaining the balance is going to be hard specifically because of the lack of 240 advertisers. Even if you went by % of total ad $, the 350 would still win out. But sometimes it seems as though the only items about the 240-260-280 and the Z31 are the ads. Suggesting that you allocate a given amount for each (240 / 260 / 280 and the 2+2's, 300 Z31 and Z32) of the models would be almost impossible to maintain fairly. But if you address "general" type issues while using one of those vehicles you'll help "correct" that imbalance. No argument that you have had some excellent articles, and undoubtedly they'll continue and hopefully improve in quantity. Quality need not be that major of an issue if you put smaller articles in. The fuel vent hose article that was in one of the first issues is a classic. Sadly, you wrote it in such a manner that anything further on the topic will appear to be a "repeat". Then again, that's the excellence in your articles working against you. You peruse this forum on occasion (I presume), so you can readily see that there are a myriad of "small" topics that, when illustrated or narrated in a magazine format would allow you to fill that small chunk of your magazine that could be devoted to the "early" cars. Surely one of your editing staff has the skill to "ghost" write from the topics posed on the web. Single uncomplicated articles can be derived without having to relate it all to a thesis on the subject. As an example, address the "simple" items that are so mundane that everyone ignores them BUT they tend to be the most asked about. Ideas like the "Hand Throttle or Cruise Control" with regards to the Series I; "Adding an aftermarket stereo" could encompass several of the models, "Paint Care: Clay or Polish?" applies to ALL. Any one of these, coupled with a few pictures could SURELY be a page or two, especially if you target the advertiser for the article. While I laud your intent to maintain a high standard of editorial excellence, don't forget that by limiting yourself to only the most "perfect" of articles, you limit your resources. I'll be looking forward to your write ups, but I'll disagree on the "nothing" clause of your statement. 2¢ Enrique

The other style did not have that hood, and the wires just led in directly into the switch which is located at the "top" of the cylinder housing. That is, the wires are almost where the bezel meets the cylinder. Carl; in the one you discuss that Rick pictured, could that hood have been for a lamp? Enrique

The beeper is actually a buzzer. Kat's is referring to the Key-In Reminder Buzzer Switch which is located in the ignition lock cylinder. Apparently there were two different style locking mechanisms and one had the location of the switch in the center of the key cylinder. Enrique

Maybe it's your search criteria that's limiting your "findings". Instead of being confrontational, and downright RUDE, you might re-phrase your comments to: "Geez, I've not been able to find it on e-bay, could someone help me find one?". Instead of forging a "problem" that is only problematic to YOU. Besides, having already been given the information as to it's availability from Courtesy, why would you be worried if someone wants to buy it for less? Go buy it from Courtesy, or wait "in the fullness of time" to buy it cheaper on e-Bay. Sorry, but your reality check seems to have failed. Enrique

You haven't mentioned what year car you have, so trying to tell you where to find the connection etc within the car's dash harness is going to take a bit. FYI, the 3 bulbs that illuminate the HCP, are simply tied into the same circuit as the rest of the instrumentation lighting. Look for a Blue / Red wire, that is a Blue wire with a Red stripe. The HCP's lighting harness was separate and had a connector to tie into the dash's harness, but without knowing if your car IS a 73 or HAS a 73 dash and harness, I can only recommend how to hook it up. The bulb sockets are the same kind as the ones in the rest of the instruments, that is a single element bayonet 3W bulb. I don't recall if each of the sockets also had a ground wire attached to it, or if it grounded through the metal plate that the bulbs fit into, and the plate was then grounded via a wire on the harness to the car's ground. In either case, all 3 bulbs were connected via a pair of common wires to the harness, which in turn connected to the car's instrumentation lighting (so the dimmer rheostat controlled them as well). Find a donor Z dash and get the bulb sockets from it, wire together and then connect to your dash. As far as your clock, you can fix it, and if you're careful it will last a long while. I fixed a pair of these a couple of years ago and they're still working great. I even went the extra step to calibrate it and now it only gains 1-2 minutes a day. Not a chronometer but definitely much better than not working. Open the clock housing by removing the two screws holding the face bezel in place. Next gently lift off the clock hands, and carefully remove the face. Below it you should find a black washer and a spring tripod washer. Make sure you don't loose these. Once these are off you can address the main problem with the clock. From the back of the case, remove the 3 nuts that hold the clock mechanism inside the case. Once this is done, carefully force the wire and the rubber boot that powers it, INTO the case, and then do the same thing for the connector. If your connector boot (not the one at the case, but the one where the clock connects to the harness) is pliable enough, gently straighten it out and fold in the heat crimped plastic wings so that it will fit through the hole in the case. At this point you should be able to remove the clock mechanism from the metal case. Take a minute to clean out any dust or gunk inside the case, and if you want it to be brighter, paint it with a WHITE paint, the green lens on the bulb housing will still illuminate the inside as green, but it will be MUCH brighter when you have the lights on. Be careful not to smear the bulb housing. Set this aside to dry. Now, looking at the clock mechanism. You'll note a little motor on the back side of the mechanism. Get a bottle of sewing machine oil and a long enough needle and apply a small drop (by small, I mean minuscule) to the motor housing and the associated pivot points. You can power it up right away, although personally I let this soak for a bit. Usually the length of time to let the paint dry in the case is sufficient, or overnight. Next, to ensure that it's working, you can either re-assemble and plug in, or you can provide power to the clock via a 12v power supply. It doesn't require a large current as the motor just winds the spring enough to keep the clock going. If everything is working correctly, you should hear and see the motor wind and you'll notice the pendulum gear begin to oscillate back and forth. I then re-assemble the clock and to ensure it doesn't conk out, I leave it plugged into the power supply for a while. If you want at this point you could calibrate the clock, except for one thing. Most power supplies supply 12.0v DC, while in the car you will be working with 12.8v to 13.5v depending on the condition of your battery and connections. To get it "perfect" you would need to match the voltage in your car. This takes a l o n g time, so leaving it in the car would be a problem, unless you don't mind having it dangling off on the side for days-weeks. So, if you don't mind it running a bit fast (as mine does), just hook it up to your power supply continuously for a few days. The procedure is simple. Once the clock is functioning properly, set the time to match a KNOWN good clock. Whether it's your wrist watch, a house clock, digital or analog it doesn't matter. You're just going to be using it to compare what the car clock is doing in relation to that one. After 24 hours or thereabouts as it doesn't matter whether you check every 2 hours or 200 hours, compare the time on both pieces. If the car clock shows 12:30 and your reference is 12:00, the car clock is fast, the opposite would be a slow mechanism. On the back of the clock housing, you'll notice a hole, usually with a milky white plug inserted into it, with markings around it ( + | | | - ). Remove the plug, and inserting a small straight screwdriver into this hole, you'll find a screw in there. Give it a gentle twist in the direction you need to adjust the clock. If fast, tweak the screw by a DEGREE or two (360° in a complete revolution) in the - direction. If slow, in the +. Be careful not to over-adjust, a small adjustment of a degree can be as much / little as 10 minutes per 12 hours or less, so by doing small adjustments you won't swing erratically all over the place. Reset the car clock to coincide with the reference clock. Recheck the two clocks again in another day or so, and repeat the adjustment until they coincide with each other, or you are satisfied with the amount of disparity. Hope this helps. Enrique By the way, I'm up here in Vancouver WA, so if you need help give a PM and we can see if we can get together.

Are you asking a question? If so, maybe Tomohawk can help you, as he's familiar with the 280, but on the 240 they weren't illuminated EXCEPT for the 73. Enrique

Richard: I'm sure there will be additional replies, but here's the gist of it: The 70 and 71 (Series I console with the Hand Throttle Option) had the Choke Handle paddle that was slightly offset to the left from the mounting stalk. This was due to the Hand Throttle lever being right next to the Choke Lever. The Hand Throttle Handle was in turn offset to the right. Look at the picture from the e-Bay auction for the picture: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7967794399&category=46102&sspagename=WDVW The Late 71 and up (Series II console) had the one with the paddle centered over the stalk. Look at the picture from Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=18415-S30 If your Series I console did NOT have the Hand Throttle, OR you're not concerned with originality, you could use the later one without problem. (I've also heard that some of the Series I console vehicles were equipped with this handle after they discontinued the Hand Throttle, but I can't verify that.) AFAIK, the difference between the two is minimal. IIRC, it's in the depth of the insert into the stalk. The set screw's are the same also. This is the basic information. Now, if you do a bit of searching on the site, you'll discover a neat (and long) discussion regarding the "roundness" or "squareness" of the paddle as regards to the originality or applicability to different years & series. The points listed therein are of interest to the purists who want the "CORRECT" one for their year / series of car. 2¢ Enrique

Excellent!!!!

And if you can't get the good cardboard, but want something that will hold up, you can get some of that border edging in a roll that gets used on lawns. That and a handful of sheet metal screws and you're set.... Or you can do like a car that's running around Vancouver lately, get some of the sheet metal used for rain gutters on houses, and pop rivet it to the bottom of the bumpers and rocker panels. Don't forget to cut out a hole for the exhaust pipe. (This car DOES exist, I've seen it a couple of times and unfortunately have not had my camera with me. When I finally do capture it on film, you guys will be "ecstatic" over the look! :stupid: ) This works best and cheapest if your car is white, otherwise you'll have to spend a couple bucks on a can of matching rattle can paint. E

Kats: If possible let us know in advance what city or what date you will be arriving at. Then, if we can, we can meet you and take you to those boneyards that hold the best promise. I'm in Vancouver Washington, with Portland PDX Int'l Airport being the closest international airport. After that, it's Seattle (don't know the code), but that is 3.5 hours away. I'm sure that other members are close to the San Jose, San Francisco, Los Angeles airports. If nothing else, we'll invite you to dinner or if time permits a beer or two (your flying times being the deciding factor). Enrique

HEHEHE! NOPE! Not Luminaire, luminaria, luminare, lumen or luminous.....LAMP. Now, let's start over..... E

The "L" analogy may need a bit more clarification. Think of that "L" as lying down on it's upright (vertical) post, and the bottom (horizontal) leg as having an insert groove in it. The groove is what gets put onto the metal lip and glued. The part that's "lying down" gets glued into the bottom of the "gutter". The piece looks somewhat like this (in profile) gutter ___|¯| interior The side pieces are flat on all edges, whereas the piece that goes across the top has a bulb (round tube) on the tip of the grooved part that gets glued onto the metal. The piece looks somewhat like this (in profile) gutter ___|º| interior (Sorry about the legs showing past the bulb. The bulb actually is an added piece to the side gasket piece.) As far as the louvers, typically they were either mounted onto hinges that were screwed onto the upper part of the hatch metal above the window, and latched below the window with slide bolt mechanisms. Or they had the base of the hinges inserted underneath the rubber and above the glass. This inserted metal was flat with a pair of minor hooks elevated to grip the rubber, and only went in as far as the glass did. To remove these all you have to do is use a 1-2" scraper to insert between the metal and the rubber, lifting the rubber off the hooks and then slide the metal out. (check to make sure they didn't also glue the metal to the glass). A very few hinge set-ups actually had a metal clip that clipped onto the glass and then the rubber seal went around it, but these were the very rarest. This metal was actually a U clip, with one of the "legs" being longer so that it extended past the glass rubber molding and then the hinge was attached at that point. Unfortunately, the ONLY way to remove these clips from the window is to remove the glass from the car and the rubber from around the glass. Hope this helps Enrique

With that being the case (one wire per direction) then by "standard" troubleshooting by providing juice to either wire should actuate the motor (the case being what's grounding the circuit). Again, I caution in that without a schematic, and prior experience of working on the 32, all I can suggest are "ballpark" procedures. Enrique

I don't have the schematics for a z32 of any year so I can't cite specifics. However, the motor is either grounded through the case and then each wire is to provide power in ONE direction, opposite from the other. Or the wires are, as you said, one positive one negative with the switch acting as an inverter. Lastly, if the motor is out of the door, see if you can rotate by hand. If the motor is seized, no amount of electricity is going to free it up to operate your window. Also, the problem COULD be in the window mechanism and not the motor. HTH Enrique

I think that rusty triangle thing in front IS a towbar, or a rust divining tool. Sad that it is in such poor condition, but I'll be the first to say that I'm glad he's trying to sell it to someone who will try to fix it or use it for parts. No, it isn't in the condition that any of us would consider "barely acceptable" but that's cause we've all been "edumacated" as to the problems and solutions. I do think his putting a reserve against it is ludicrous....what did the boneyard offer more? 2¢ Enrique