EScanlon

Also check your accelerator pedal hinge and the fulcrum cam inside the engine compartment that translates the forward / back movement of the pedal to a sideways movement to rotate the carburator linkages. Those two are notorious for being both tight and having a slight "stick". For the record, every Z I've driven has always exhibited this "sticky" throttle. Enrique

The differences in the size of the font are an interesting bit of news, as I've never heard anyone mention that. The very early dashes did not have the hole above the Hazard Switch opened up, just the indent. Additionally, they did NOT have a label nor an indent for the label to the side of the Hazard Switch. Once the cigar lighter had to be moved from the ashtray / fuse area cover to the dash, is when the hole began being used for the cigar lighter. The "next" style of dash, added an indent to the side of the Hazard Switch, into which a decal / sticker was placed, denoting how to use the Hazard Switch. As far as I know, the dashes stayed pretty much the same for the next few years. I have noted slight differences between the various years, in the construction of the internal metal framework of the dash, but very little as far as the dash itself. The 73 Z, at least here in the U.S. was the one and only year that offered a back light Heater Control Panel. Because of the added thickness of the HCP and the width of the backplate for the lights, there were some very subtle dimension differences in the HCP opening, but not so much that I could help you discern one from another. I'll have to query regarding the font size. Enrique

You also have to remember that by our age, the majority of the really stupid have been picked off, in a Darwinian Process, along the way. Many times that's WHY we KNOW something is dangerous, stupid, suicide..... Enrique

I seem to recall having read or seen this somewhere else, but excellent post. One note, having done this myself, this method works even when it isn't just a single crack that is the problem. I fixed an otherwise perfect horn button in a slight variation of the above. I used JB Weld slathered somewhat liberally in between the crack edges and also to fill in material that had been lost due to chaffing or brittleness. Once the JB Weld was applied, I then used 3 of the smaller wire tie's and arranged them around the ring and tightened them down little by little until the shape and the roundness of the ring was perfect. Lastly before the JB has a chance to set thoroughly, I lathered some around the wire ties where they came in contact with the ring, so that they would be secured tight and not slip off the ring. Next, as the JB weld is starting to set, I used my R/C Model plane heating gun and slowly heated the JB, one area at a time. This heats up the JB and causes it to release any bubbles within, since the material literally liquifies and the air burps out. Then before the JB has hardened again, I held it so that the crack(s) would be filled with the JB. If you work carefully and quickly it's possible to do all of the cracks one after the other. (In my case I had 3 cracks on one side and a pair on the other of the ring.) I then let it sit overnight and only a light sanding with my Dremel was required to have it fit perfectly. Mine too has been on for a couple years. Enrique

Sylvania Number 59 bulbs worked for me and are more than adequate for brightness. Enrique

I agree not only wholeheartedly, but CHALLENGE anyone to refute this. As we used to say in the Air Force: " I value your right to your opinion, and have pledged to defend that value to my death. That, however, does not mean that I must agree with your opinion, nor does it give you the right to impose it upon me." Ahhhhh, if only it were so easy..... Let the molotov pitching begin..... Enrique

TexZ: Have you checked the latch mechanism on the firewall for smooth operation? It could be that the gate that latches around the pin is not sliding smoothly back into place and capturing the whole head of the pin. Additionally, check your pin for wear on the topside of the cone. If it's too rounded that could cause a problem. Enrique

DO NOT USE NEVER FOG!!! I am not kidding on this. It will permanently fog and haze your windows. Then when you drive into the sun, presto zesto instant white haze that's almost impossible to see through. Voice of experience here, I did it on my Acura and had to live with the nonsense until I had the windshield replaced. Your flapper valve inside the heater plenum may have lost it's "seal/padding" that goes on the face of the flapper. If that is the case, it will not allow the valve to close properly and hence most of your air will be vented to the floor. Enrique

That's the valve that allows the Fuel Tank to Vent to the Air Breather. Note the metal line tube going down and to the back of the engine compartment. You'll note that it goes into the tranny tunnel and back. Don't just plug this up, as it may cause a fuel flow problem. Check with Bambikiller or 2ManyZ's or Beandip as to what / how to do this. Enrique

Alaskans would like to remind their fellow Texan Americans, that if by some freak occurrence of nature, Alaska were to be split in half.....Texas would become our THIRD largest state. E

Rick: In rereading my posts, I can see why you would get that impression. I was an NCO in the U.S. Air Force, which required me to take various "Leadership" classes. The longest of those classes was a 30 day course which was a compressed 8 week course available to middle level managers at civilian companies. Additionally, I have close to 30 years experience in Customer Service and Sales. You learn how to mediate and negotiate when trying to calm an irate customer. V12: I disagree with your third sentence. I don't think that you should have kept your opinion to yourself. Without your interaction, especially because it was an opposing view is EXACTLY what this site is all about. Remember the fable about the Emperor's new clothes? Without criticism none of us would examine our motives nor our results, except for our internal "conscience" regarding peer acceptance. The key to criticizing is in your second sentence. Vicky: I like the way you think! :devious: Enrique

REMEMBER THE CAR IN PIC,IS NOT MINE BUT IT IS CLOSE Hmmm, how does this differ from "Sight Unseen"? Enrique

Carl; No argument here. If I didn't express it overtly was due more to my not wanting to add fuel to the fire than because I saw it differently. Again, no argument. As what you mention is exactly what we do. Whether the troll was meant to be an intentional slur / insult.... I don't know, I'd rather give the benefit of the doubt and presume that it was benign. As for the treatment the folks at HybridZ shell out, I don't know and frankly, I don't care. I don't visit the site because I'm not interested in the details of modifying the Z, since I don't ever plan on doing that to either one of mine. That said, I respect their right to their opinion, no matter how different it is from mine. As to whether an apology is necessary, like you stated we each have our own opinion. The reason I feel an apology was necessary is that he DID in fact reverse his position and has put the car up for auction as is. To me that says that we did in fact work with him and convinced him that it was the best thing to do. When you win an argument the best thing you can do, sometimes, is apologize. It allows both of you to put the sour feelings behind and grow a new friendship. He may, in time, decide to acquire a pristine ORIGINAL Z, and come back and be a regular member of this site. 23¢ Enrique

I've been keeping up with this post, and haven't chimed in because it had all the flavor of a flame war brewing. First of, to LS1240Z, I'll apologize for the rude remarks made to you. Sadly, in our enjoyment of the Z, we tend to lambaste those owners who have chosen to modify their own vehicles past a certain level. Not to say that we don't eventually admire a good converted car, but that, because of the difficulty we have had in trying to restore our own vehicles to a more ~original~ state, we drool after these rare hidden treasures that are like time capsules. Then to discover that your intent was to ...ugh, shudder... modify her...... Can you understand why as a group we freaked? Now, as to your original intent of changing the engine in order to make the car into a rocket. That, in and of itself, is a worthy endeavour. It will take a lot of time, effort and money in order to pull it off properly. You mention that you want to insert a roll bar and other mods in order to strengthen the car to accept the new acceleration, torque and steering twist. All that will need some intense body work in order to tie in properly. I just recently acquired a 72 240Z, AT that has a blown engine. One of the pistons has a hole in it, and the PO has removed the head, allowing the pistons and block to have rust on them. The rest of the car, is pristine. Yes, there are the door dinghies, a dash of rust on the passenger door rear and on the passenger rocker panel. If you are interested in a trade, I'm willing to discuss it. However, I am in the Portland, Oregon / Vancouver, Washington area and it might be difficult for us to exchange them, especially since both of them are non-driveable. But it CAN be done. Lastly, with regards to our initial responses, and the "dare" from the other site. That he got "dared" to post here is probably due more to the fact that we tend to be a bit fanatical regarding CLASSIC 240Z's. Whether it be because of our lack of knowledge regarding what tranny from what car and year or because the modifications are anathema to our mores. The truth of the matter is that usually when someone mentions that he wants to modify his Z, we instantly chime in to go to the Hybrid Z site. In this case, due to the unusualness of the find, and the fact that it is in extremely good condition, we reacted as we ALL knew the membership of this site would. With outrage, vehemence and, sadly, rudeness. All of these are valid emotions and responses. However, we must take note that, as a group, in order to gain the recognition and respect of others, we must also offer them the same recognition and respect. That is to say, just because a person modifies his Z, does not make him an evil person. In fact, done properly, a modification can actually result in a very admireable car. So, let's promote that e-Bay auction to everyone we know that is looking to buy a car, let's get his reserve met and we can bask in the knowledge that we saved a good time capsule car and that we also helped the seller to achieve his dream of a rocket Z. 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

The cheapest and easiest solution is to find another steering wheel. Trying to grind in a woodruff key groove into both the wheel and the spline will surely cost more than the replacement, and having an insert machined ..... Well, if you go that route, I have some beach front property in New Mexico. Enrique

Will: I hope you did not take my diatribe as a personal insult as it was not meant that way. I will apologize to anyone that may have thought that was my intent. I'm all for cheap fixes. Remember my cowl drain fix; or the shower curtain for the vapor barrier behind the door panels; or using POR-15 along with their Power Mesh to reinforce rusted metal? All of these are cheap when compared to the "correct/OEM" fix. It is for those cheap alternatives that this forum and it's members are such an excellent source for. Let's continue to find those alternatives, let's discuss them, and best of all, let's keep them safe. I'm counting on getting a decade or two out of my Z yet. Enrique

I'm not trying to come down on the ingenuity and creativity that we have to have in order to fashion repairs and / or replacements. That is what sometimes makes the difference between a car you can drive and one that sits in the driveway because the parts are falling apart and won't stay together. BUT When it comes to safety items, there ARE viable alternatives, but they aren't cheap. The true cheap alternatives are rare and need careful evaluation, before applying. Sometimes the cheap alternative is simply NOT the way to go. Think about it, would you patch the tube with duct tape and hope for the best? The biggest problem with trying to manufacture an alternative is that there are not that many substances available to the home mechanic that will not only be impervious to fuel but also flexible after curing. The $100 may seem to NOT be the question but it is in fact, the central point of this whole discussion. If the $100 did not seem expensive he would have just replaced the piece and never posted about it. The search for cheaper alternatives, although normally a worthwhile and possibly profitable venture for all of us, is not the answer here. Would you manufacture your own brake pads just because you can mold High Temp Epoxy with metal shavings? As far as the too-graphic reminders of what can go wrong, sadly, even with that there will be people who ignore all sorts of graphic warnings and become victims themselves. Bambi's post speaks volumes. Most of us are hoping to find easier and cheaper solutions but unfortunately those "cheap" solutions are sometimes achieved only after years of experience and procurement of tools, materials etc.. And let's not forget that there are THOUSANDS of cases where what seemed to work, was in fact the Achille's Heel that caused a failure. So, let's find those cheaper alternatives where they are indeed cheap. A cheap fix that ends in catastrophic loss was expensive in my view. Enrique

I don't want to over-react and act like a 500 hairy ape going ape-sh!t for the lack of banana's, but ARE YOU OUT OF YOUR FRIGGING MIND????? Ok, back to reality. That $100 may be steep, in fact it is and unfortunately for us, that's the current going price. In a few years it may be twice or three times that. Next, that is a VITAL, as in CRITICALLY VITAL part of the fuel system. Don't think so? Try leaving a gas station with a one gallon can WITHOUT the cap on it. That hose is what allows you to carry the fuel in a closed system. If you go around a corner, it accepts the sloshing around of the fuel without allowing it to flow out. Additionally, it has the hoses to finish your fuel vapor system. Then again, you would rather drive a molotov coctail around. The reason that hose is flexible is to allow the tank and the body to flex. The reason it is in ONE piece is so that the stress of flexing doesn't separate them and allow the fuel to escape. Frankly, I would want to know if someone had monkeyed with the fuel inlet hose, BEFORE I got in that car. Now, if you want, chop out the lower third of your right rear fender, and put an end of metal tube cap, like those used on the late 50's pick-ups, or on the necks of the tractor trailer diesel tanks, but don't skimp here. Heck, even a used one is better than someone's Rube Goldberg Fix. 3¢ Enrique

If you remove the hatch from the vehicle to do work in and around the hatch jamb area, be careful when you remove the hinges from the body. That is if you don't just remove the hatch from the hinges. The hinges have a rubber "sock" that fits around them and into the cavity in the roof. Those rubber "socks" are NLA from just about anyone. In fact, if anyone can help out, there are at least 2 of us here who could use a good pair. Now, the main reason for pointing this out is that that pocket into which the hinge swings in and out of, CAN be a problem if it doesn't have the rubber boot. That section of the sheet metal dumps right into the dome light area and the two rear fender wells. 2¢ Enrique

I did a lot of work on my car and another in that area, and I too could find no reason for it. However, due to the construction of the car in that area, I believe it may have been used as a jig holder for all the sheet metal below. If I recall there are 3-4 sheets of metal that join in that area. Just a thought. Enrique

Mike: Thanks for putting the site back up. I have a question for you though. Why is it that on the Z site I have both the right and left columns bunching up on TOP of the center column, yet on the Roadster site, they align themselves properly and nothing gets overlapped? Could you check? It might be a simple setting that is giving me, SBlake and others the same problem. Thanks Enrique

The ROOM / DEF lever ONLY has a function when the AIR lever is set to HEAT. To stop the fresh air from coming through the center and side vents you have to close the fresh air flapper valve by selecting OFF. The system is real basic, the only thing to know before refurbishing it is that the flapper valves and the heater core are outfitted with gasketing to make a tight seal and ensure air flow through the system. Hope this helps Enrique

The top lever, AIR, operates TWO levers. The middle lever, TEMP and the bottom one, DEF, operate one lever each. The AIR connects to the Fresh Air Vent Flapper Valve at the firewall to allow or not allow the entrance of fresh air. This is the longest of the 4 cables. The attachment point should be behind the fan and on a LHD car to the RIGHT of the valve. ( I don't know if on a RHD car the Fresh Air Valve would be reversed, but I doubt it.) AIR also connects to the Heater Box Plenum to actuate the diverter flap that sends the fresh air either to the heater core or to the vents. This is on the upper right side of the plenum. TEMP connects to the Heater Valve on the right of the plenum. It regulates the amount of water going to the heater core. DEF connects to the lever on the left hand side of the plenum and actuates the doors on the bottom of the plenum that open to allow the heated air to escape. Note, FRESH COLD air is the only air you'll get out of the Center Console Vent and the "Eyeball" vents on either side of the dash. When the controls are placed on HEAT the air is diverted to either the Defrost tubes just below the windshield or to the floor, depending on whether you have Defrost or Room selected. That's it, hope it helps. By the way, if you haven't already done so, add a drop of light mineral oil to the wires inside the housing and operate them several times to lubricate the inside of the wire housing. Also check to make sure that the internal flapper valves of the heater box are not frayed or unglued. Enrique Scanlon

You don't mention whether the fan is working when you have it on AC, but presuming it is, and that the air IS being moved then it must be going out of the system somewhere. That sounds very trite, but in fact should allow you to figure out the problem. However, I would like to point out what the AC instruction manual says: "Note: Slide Bar Switches must be to left when operating A/C." as well as : "240Z Custom: Air is tducted into the fresh air duct system and is directed from the dash louvers at the extreme sides and center of the vehicle." That tells you that you must put the controls in the OFF position, which for most folks is NOT the way you would set it. Then, you only get air out the center and eyeball vents. Hope this helps. Enrique

I resent that remark! I owned a 76 Capri II with a V6 2800 4spd and it was simply put...a rocket. Although I will admit that even during those happy years (79-89) I still harkened for the Z. But, nonetheless the Capri was a fast, comfortable and very much a rocket. Enrique